boilsover

Hi, Shel: It is to me, but then I care neither for induction nor DW-ability. If we are talking *fully* clad wares (as opposed to disk-bottomed), you will be hard pressed to find such clad with thick enough conductive layers of aluminum or copper to rival 2.3mm copper bimetal, let alone >3mm extra fort tinned copper. And even if you did, clothing it in additional layer(s) of SS is going to mute the pan's responsiveness. Thick copper just has an ideal combination of responsiveness, heat retention and evenness that, IMO the only serious rival is the rare straight-gauge aluminum wares rendered in >5mm thickness. How important this mix of properties is to a given application or preparation varies widely. But again, IMO, it's not a question of whether copper is better or worth it (it generally is), but rather is the margin of betterment great enough to justify the price differential. For instance, I think a hotel-grade copper saute or Windsor is worth paying a premium for, whereas a copper stockpot or bain marie may not be. If you are shopping for a poele/frypan, there are now some very good non-copper alternatives, e.g., the Demeyere 5* Proline. In reality, only you can judge the "worth it" question. I suggest you may need to try a good quality copper piece before you can make a truly informed decision. Have Fun!

You're as "modern" as you *think* you feel, so I won't comment on patterns, but I have and like Ricci's flatware, and can recommend them for quality. design, finish and heft.

Hello, Little Chef: Wow, are YOU going to have fun! You should spluge BIG if/when a pan speaks words of love to you. FWIW, I disagree with others here, both as to the proposition that the same pan can be had here in USA for less, and the "life significance" of acquiring a beloved batterie piece while in the culinary capital of the world. My classmate and Parisophile David Liebovitz has already written most of what, IMO, you need to know: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2010/06/cookware-shops-in-paris-dehillerin-copper-mora-baking-supplies/ Pardon me if you already have found David's article. Take appropriate note of David's explanation of the VAT exemption and 10% tourist discounts. I would also urge you to: (a) scour the brocantes; and (b) invest some quality advance time perusing ebay.fr. The former would be impulse-oriented, and the latter might take advantage of saving you the TERRIBLE postage/shipping charges from la post or Colissimo by buying a rare item before you leave (many French sellers refuse to ship to USA), and then bring your treasure home with you. In either case, make a friend of the soul you buy it from! I realize you are oriented toward bimetal (SS-lined) pans, but I humbly suggest that if you find a vintage, planished, extra fort or hotel-grade saute lined in tin that speaks to you, you will be much happier in the long run over buying any of the current new-production bimetal pans (e.g., Falk or Mauviel SS-lined, which are at most 2.3mm of copper). I guarantee if you walk into a bistro or bouchon lugging a vintage extra-fort Gaillard or Jacquotot, it will be your passport to friendship. Have a blast!

Yes, undissolved salt can and does pit SS-lined cookware, even those lines using the best alloys. It doesn't happen every time, but often enough to be a PITA. Great examples of makers of good-quality wares who warn about this are Falk and All-Clad. If you visit the competition over at Chowhound and search for "Falk", you will find several threads on this topic, and several posters whose warranty claims to Falk for salt-pitting have been denied because Falk specifically excludes salt pitting from its warranty.

Hi: I'd like to see freeze-dried/irradiated stocks which can dispense with (or radically reduce) added salt. Thanks!

Who cares? I do. I'm with you about 99.9% Shel. When it comes to kitchen equipment and cookware, I have gradually concluded that--with some qualifications--vintage is better. IME, this is certainly true when it comes to copperware, butcher blocks, knives, small appliances (notably toasters and blenders). If you retreat about 40-50 years in the Wayback Machine, you can find some quality pieces. What a mystery--they seem to be US- and European-made! Two years ago, I installed a 1905 solid-fuel range to put under my tinned copper, and I couldn't be happier. Stir-fried with wok hei last night, AAMOF.

Hi, highchef: For your perusal: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC1.A0.Xantique+wood+stove&_nkw=antique+wood+stove&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Cheers

Highchef: If sold fuel interests you and you have deep pockets, you might wish to check out Rayburn solid-fuel cookers from UK (an affiliated company with AGA). I nearly bought one of these; they're beautiful and very functional. Fitted witha water jacket, they will heat a surprisingly large home. Thoughtfully, Rayburn includes an extra-thick "Summer" set of firebrick, so your housestays cool in the warmer months. Cheers.

Hi, Highchef: Have you considered a solid-fuel cook stove? I installed one in my primary kitchen 18 months ago, and love it. You have fuel and ash management to deal with, and you don't get instant heat, but it's really a joy to cook with. I bought a vintage Monarch 3526N. I've been running both wood and anthracite coal in it--very versatile, and has the advantage of a continuous cooking surface. When you need to turn the heat down, you basically slide the pan right a few inches. The oven is huge, because there're no elements. obviously, there're no utility bills or service interruptions, and the heat in the house is welcome in cold and temperate climes. Until I find the original Monarch Mod. 42 2-burner gas bolt-on shelf, I'm using a separate 2-burner LP setup for the rare occasions when I don't have time to fully fire the stove. Nothing like the smell of woodsmoke in the dark hours before and after the hunt... Cheers! PS: You might want to check out Lehman's for LP-fired reefers, ranges and new woodstoves. https://www.lehmans.com/

Hi, Shel: Since this is a special gifty situation, I would suggest a silver-lined piece of copperware. You can do this one of three ways: (1) buy new; or (2) buy a vintage tin-lined pan, and send it out for plating; or (3) find a vintage silvered piece. For the first, may I suggest Bottega del Rame http://www.rameria.com/ ? For the second, buy a hotel-grade pan on eBay, and send it to ACME Plating in Colorado. http://www.acmeplating.com/ For the third, you might find a Jos. Heinrich or Georg Jensen Taverna piece that is already silvered. I have done all three and can recommend all. The advantage of a silver-lined pan is that you can have thicker copper than can be found on the bimetal pans (max 2.3mm of copper) AND the silver is not subject to accidental melting as is tin. The only DISadvantage, IMO, is that you must refrain from using metal utensils. If you do, this would be a "lifetime" pan, and the ne plus ultra of cookware. Merry Christmas!

Hi, Francie: Your fireplace looks perfect for a tournebroche with a lechefrite under it, like this: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/LECHEFRITE-CUIVRE-ETAME-63-X-31-5CM-LECHE-FRITE-POUR-TOURNE-BROCHE-PLAT-A-JUS-/221335087311?pt=FR_JG_Art_Objets_XIX&hash=item33889968cf You will need a second grate--you stand them on edge several inches apart, and fill the space between them with burning pieces of wood. If your hearth is deep or wide enough, a Tuscan grill or a "camp" Dutch oven work well-- you must rake/scoop the coals out of an active fire to use them effectively. Have Fun!

This is correct, and consistent with the descriptions in Larousse Gastronomique and Renard's Les Cuivres de Cuisine. Renard defines 'sautoir' as (in my poor translation): "Casserole a bords peu eleves et fond epais dans lequel le cuisiner fait sauter les morceau de viandes et les legumes. Elle possede un couvercle pour poursuivre la cuisson a four." "A pan with straight short sides and thick bottom in which the cook sautes pieces of meat and vegetables. It possesses a lid for cooking in the oven." He defines 'sauteuse' as: "Cassreole en cuivre a fond epais, munie d'une queue. Les bords en sont peu eleves contrairement aux casseroles, mais comparee au sautoir, la sauteuse est legerement evasee. Les bords ainsi fabriques permettent de "faire sauter", c'est-a-dire remuer facilement et violemment les ailiments coupes en morceaux pour bien les melanger aux huiles et aromates." "Thick copper pan, provided with a tail handle. The walls are not unlike the other pans, but cmpared to a saute, the pan is slightly flared. The features allow jumping, that is to say easily and violently stir foods cuts into pieces to mix well with oils and herbs." If someone can do a better translation, I'm all ears.

I, too, have a Kill-A-Watt and like it. But I believe they're not set up to handle 220/240V appliances. If someone knows differently, I'd like to buy the 220V version.

This W-S item is virtually identical to the Eneron Turbo Pot steamer. These have been available for quite awhile through commercial kitchen stores like Bargreen-Ellison. Eneron's website is http://www.turbopot.com/ The concept is not a gimmick. PG&E tested it and found that it does save energy. Of course, it's only going to work well on gas hobs.

When I'm not willing to fire my 1910 solid-fuel cookstove, I use a 2-burner propane rig like this: http://www.whatsitworth.net/cse/images/2013/01/19/226/1918-antique-glenwood-no2-cast-iron-double-burner-propanegas-hot-plate-stove_1.jpg A 20-lb bottle lasts me 6-9 months, and it hasn't set off the CO detector yet. An advantage of these is that, with very little effort, you can pimp them out to do >100K Btu for wokking--but do that OUTSIDE.

Hi, UP: This is a major coup. Congratulations. I've been collecting (and studying) copperware for quite some time, and this is one piece I do not have. I *do* have other fish poachers, but not the diamond-cross shape that makes the turbotiere so striking. Where I live on the Left Coast, we would use this for a pre-adolescent Halibut, but you could poach anything in it within the constraints of the area and area-to-Court boullion ratio. I'm thinking "baseball" cuts of white king salmon for a party of 12 or so would be nice. One issue with these pans is that, to accomodate a fish large enough to make for a proper fit/volume, you may have to straddle two modern hobs. These pans date back to a time when solid-top hotel and chateau ranges provided a vast expanse of more or less even heat. I have a dear friend who bought a 1-meter turbotiere (40 lbs empty!), which would straddle at least 4 commercial hobs, and will not fit in any but the largest ovens. This shape is one that (along with the "braising boxes") commands far higher prices here in the US than in France. This is due mostly due to interior decorating, not culinary, interests. Lastly, I think you need not worry over perforating your find with acidic liquors. Have fun!

Or give it a shot of Frangelico...

Hi, rotuts: Those temperature settings are a complete joke. Ignore them. Here's another unfortunate fact: When adjusting the power settings, you will find that 6-10 are basically useless for anything but speed-boiling water. That leaves you with 5 discrete (i.e., NOT infinitely adjustable) settings to work with for most cooking. My 1953 GE Airliner has that number of settings. Let me know if you want to get rid of that outmoded French copperware that won't work on your new hotplate, will you?

You need to be aware that (1) These 'tops are NOT infinitely-variable as were rheostatically controlled coil or valved gas 'tops. They all have discrete settings (1-6, 1-10, 1-100, etc.). The cheapo one-burner hotplates typically have the fewest, and the $$$ full-on cooktops typically have more. At 1-100 steps, it approximates infinite variability, but in the 1-10 models (i.e., the vast majority), you don't even get much of a spread. This is because typically 6-10 is WAY too much power for most dishes except boiling. This can leave you... right where you started. (2) If you're considering one that has temperature settings (as opposed/in addition to the arbitrary numerical setting), these are not only notoriously unreliable at accurately reflecting the actual pan temperature, but they seem to not hold a constant temperature. They are best described as surging. The ghost in the machine is that the temperature sensors are cheap (like the rest of the appliance) AND mounted beneath the Ceran surface, nowhere near your food. If they're measuring anything, it's the space under the glass. IMO, the temperature settings are a cruel joke. For my money, you're ahead to go with a butane hotplate with infinite adjustment than these things.

With respect, virtually all pans benefit from some "seasoning". I put that word in in quotes because what it is differs from lining to lining and texture to texture. In my experience, tin, silver, aluminum, SS, even enamel all benefit. I would treat Silvinox the same as aluminum or non-sprayed SS--liberally oil, heat to just below the smoke point of your oil/fat, let cool, and wipe out without washing. Ideally, just wipe out or salt-scrub thereafter, in homage to Chef Stanish and other great omeleteers.

I use the inaptly-named Morton "Meat Pump", which resembles a large veterinarian syringe. The needle is rather large-gauge; the tip is "blind", but it is cross-drilled about 1/2 inch behind the tip. This seems to help prevent brine/marinade aneurisms when the needle bottoms out. It seems to work OK, but I wish there were finer-gauge needles as well.

There's this, for $3.50, if you want to supply your own board. Here is the link.

Hi, BR: I'm not sure it's a true oxymoron you're after here, but something very close. Maybe a better analogy would be looking for a skydiving anvil--wood and the DW just don't go well together. I've had a variety of woods stabilized for knife and pistol scales and gunstocks. Yes, it imparts dimensional stability, but you've got epoxy resins in the cell structure of the wood. The pores all stay open. And as you experienced, it will still break--into flat pieces. Personally, I'm against giving epoxy dust condiment status. So I don't know if I ought to congratulate you on 8 years' success with your dearly departed board.

Hi, Andie, thanks for posting this. I think the concept is fantastic, but my aesthetic is calling for different choices. I propose a one-off service that will turn the customer's .jpg into a fridge skin. I want mine to look like the *inside*, but with bottles of Grand Dame, lobes of foie gras, a hanging joint of prosciutto, plates of caviar, maybe a Photoshop of my own head on a platter.

The Horror! I would have to change my screen name and commit seppuku with the PTFE watermelon knife.