boilsover

OK, so Santa left me one of these. Neither he nor Dave Arnold can tell me where the Allen screw went that mounts the Searzall to the torch head. It certainly wasn't in the little ziplock bag with the other small parts. Maybe it's rattling around in the sleigh? Trip to the hardware store... Also, it's only after you buy that you read in the instructions that the TS-4000 torch is considered underpowered (<1/2 the power of the -8000). But wait, it gets better... The TS-8000 is sold as a MAPP torch, not propane, so few people already have one. And they're $63. So now I have one of those coming to add to my platoon of torches. I hope it's all worth $150...

That's why the Good Lord created kevlar and stainess mesh gloves...

Yes, the replacement is like a Size 10 foot in a Size 8 shoe. Then they SAY to repack the old foot in the same shoe for return/disposal; I think Conair's just trying to save return shipping charges. Worked with me.

Yup, all the 7s are 14 cup, I think.

Strange... My replacement blade arrived today, and it's different from yours-- mine seems to have the steel blades completely bedded in the plastic hub. Mine's marked: "Cuisinart DLC-7 Metal Blade DLC-001BIA"

If someone has such severe arthritis they can't pulse a FP or slide a mandoline, how are they going to assemble the blades of this thing and turn it on?

I like the integral handle and thickness. The only other maker I'm aware doing similar handles is the guy in Australia. Interested in your use report.

If a cook already has a good mandoline and/or a FP, why would she want one of these? At my age and with my kit, any additional small electric appliance has to be an excellent performer and do something none of my existing kit items can do. This appliance fails that test. From a different angle, even if I was tempted to buy this appliance, I hope someone would point me to a rugged, all-metal, manual tool like this: https://www.lehmans.com/product/salad-cutter/choppers-cutters

Nah, they have one-way helo rides for that.

It's the lack of marking (and the knowledge that Wagner made unmarked pans like this for Sears)

It also suggests Wagnerware that was sold through Sears.

Yes. I presumed the white dots we see in your photo are the ends of some sort of retaining pegs which fit through holes in the blade. Is this incorrect?

You have a point about the soft plastic. However, the metal web on these new blades is even narrower than that on the old riveted blades. Less meat = shorter crack required to break away.

If those white dots reflect holes in the blades themselves, it looks more likely to crack and calve off splinters of steel....

Don't you know? Asparacus was an OG Roman foodie dude, BFF of Martial.

With the exception of the subsidiary crack, this is what mine looked like. Your photo gives me the shivers--I can visualize that shark's tooth in my guacamole!

Yeah, my DLC-7Pro is the same vintage and the S-blade is Japan-made, too. The Japanese models are recalled, although the official page suggests they aren't. I was going to shrug this off, but I decided to take a REALLY close look at my main blade and Whoa! it was indeed hairline cracked at one of the rivets. Get the free new blade. At the very least, it'll be sharper than that 30-year-old one...

My vote is for a ViseGrip on the screw head and then heat the area. Should turn out.

The Demeyere double plancha is being closed out at Zwilling online. These are "seconds", and the last price I saw was $120. I got one for $149. They are worth the original asking price of $537. 3mm of aluminum and Silvinox finish--even and easy to clean.

You ARE today's winner. If this is the 3600 Super, I recently found one at a grange sale for $15. Like yours it probably sat unused since the 1970s. Out of curiosity, is the shaft hexagonal or 12-splined? If the latter (earlier models), you may need to buy an adapter nut to make the 12-spline beakers work. The feature where you can instantly reverse at 100 RPS is totally amazing!

Hi, Donk: Succeeding making a "better" cast iron pan is a tough row to hoe. It's an understatement to call it a mature technology, and there's scant room for improvement. When you add to that the fact that new founders are never going to compete with the likes of Lodge, it's either very foolish business-wise, or a Hail Mary that the indie/artisanal angle will work. I want to address the thick v thin thing. A thin CI skillet is just fine if your hob is even or for roasting. The boat anchors sold by another artisanal outfit, Finex, are so thick and heavy, IMO they're like a heavy stationary griddle. Thick or thin, theyre prone to hot spotting, and adjusting heat is like steering a loaded oil tanker. If you like artisanal and are open to carbon steel, I reccommend you consider Blu Skillets in Seattle. Cheers

Yep, even though your guy took it down, you can see at the heel where the belt or stone has started it going concave again. My solution would be to have a competent smith carefully (and cooly) grind in a choil about the diameter of a US Quarter, so that the edge can be sharpened all the way out to the heel. There'd still be plenty of "guard" left.

Not wrong, but the terminology gets blurred. A "bolster" is usually understood to be an added piece ahead of the handle scale or through-handle designed to buttress the handle and prevent corrosion. It can be a separate piece, soldered, pinned, and/or glued on, OR it can be "integral" with the blade/tang, i.e., forged or ground into the assembly. Bolsters can include finger guards or not. And the guards can go all the way to the heel or not. I agree that the classic Euro bolster that descends all the way to the heel is a PITA because (a) sooner or later, successive sharpenings will result in a lack of board contact near the heel, leading to accordion cuts; and (b) the typical cook cannot properly reduce the mass of metal at the heel to fix it. I have 4 paring knives out for professional sharpening because the bolsters also need taking down to make the edge profiles convex. A full height bolster/guard also gives some added support to the blade when the knife is twisted. But most modern steels, properly heat-treated don't really need this. I think Big Knife persists with this full-height design mostly because people expect it in $$ cutlery. They also do it as a risk management strategy. They could simply put a large choil in the blade ahead of a minimal bolster and completely solve the resharpening PITA and have some safety insurance.

Nah, I just reach or the wife's facial tweezers. Sometimes I even clean them before putting them back....

OK, final question: Have you had to replace the screen? I read somewhere that some people had problems with this. Thanks.