felixhirsch

Well, in general, I would be very, very impressed (negatively) if the MIchelin didn't give Brett those 2*. This was seriously interesting, and unique food. Although there were certainly elements of Noma, Arpege and other restaurants in there, the combinations seemed very personal, and different. Those who haven't been in a while should go soon. Judging from what they served a good year ago, the cooking seems to have evolved quite a bit. Also, although this hasn't got a thing to do with the food, they were incredibly cool on changing dishes here and there, which was decidedly different from Darroze (where I had asked if they could do that, and replied yes, but with a hefty supplement for a piece of pork belly. Instead of pigeon with foie gras). Will definitely report back on my return, which should happen some time in Jan or Feb, once I'm back from the continent.

A meal here a few weeks ago was a real revelation. The food, service and whole experience were highly enjoyable, and clearly merit that 2nd star. Not a single technical mistake, but rather incredibly perfect, interesting and different food was turned out by Brett Graham's kitchen, and I am really looking forward to returning, in order to find out more about his work. In general, the best dishes were the scallops, celeriac and turbot. All of them were absolutely terrific.

Seems like next year could be rather interesting in London, with all of these projects in the air. If only half of them materialise, we should be in for a good time.

Went back to Fulham a few weeks back, and had another great meal. That egg will always attract me like a magnet, as it is just way too good to get tired of. In general, the meal was very consistent, with only one exception, of a pigeon salad, where I'd have prefered the meat lukewarm (it was served rather cold). Apart from that, this was very fine cooking for the more or less £30 one spends here for 3 courses. Among the desserts the Caledonian ice was much more enjoyable than the (Very good) doughnuts.

Went here about 2 months ago. Overall the food was much better than the first time around, even if it was a Friday night. All of the dim sum were between good and very good (at least for a western palate). I found the meal to be highly enjoyable in general. It definitely deserves that !* rating, although it is on the lower end, compared to others in London.

Went here a good week ago, mainly for white truffle, and must say that it wasn't too bad. I was expecting something rather uninspiring, but this was actually pretty pleasant (nothing transcendental neither though). The food was well executed, The poached egg with fonduta, cepes, and polenta (and white truffles of course) was an excellent dish though. That was worth it, although I found it rather amusing, that the supplement here is higher than that of the Greenhouse for instance. All in all, a pleasant enough place, but I wouldn't be tempted to go back if it weren't truffle season. Here's the full review.

I returned to the Sportsman the day I came back to England and was greeted by another great meal. The cooking seems to be evolving more and more towards the idea of using various parts of a product, which is great and the products are of course as good as it gets in Britain. Service is fantastic, and one simply feels very happy and well in this place. That is one of the greatest compliments I could think of giving to a restaurant. It's hard to go as far as naming favourite dishes, but the level is incredibly high and constant. The only thing, Stephen could improve a little would be the desserts, which sure are fine by 1* standards, but are much less interesting than the rest of the food. This time, the star among the sweet parts of the meal was a fantastic ice cream made from the pits of plums. Here's the full story.

does Anton still do the Senateur Couteaux version of the dish? looks rather simple and straightforward for Anton (the plating).

now that sounds interesting.

Does anyone know what will happen to J.F. Piege, and when he will open his "gastronomic restaurant with a different concept", and where?

you are right, they come from Switzerland (which I didn't know). But, at least some part of the production seems to come from Germany, at least that's what the chefs who use it told me. To the comte AOC regulations you could add that they have to grase at altitudes of 1200m and more.

Yes it is quite bizarre. When I last was at Erfort, he was telling me that there is absolutely no way of getting that beef in Germany. He has to order it in France, which isn't problematic seeing that he is in Saarbruecken, but it tells you a lot about it.

It is interesting, that the French, if they don't use either of the above mentioned races, often use (in the 3*) Simmental (which is German, Bavarian) beef. The story is even better, as the vast majority of the Simmental's production is exported, and chefs like Erfort have to re-import the stuff. From a few people, who know their beef, I have heard unanimous praise for Simmental stuff. If you look on Gastroville's Flickr album, he has some pictures of stunning, well-aged SImmental beef. The problem in French butchers and good restaurants is more the ageing (which is a problem in the whole of Europe, some exceptions excluded). No one will age their stuff for more than a month, at least not unless you ask for it.

Dear Pirate, Thanks for the explanations, but I was well aware of the different versions of the dish. They have already been discussed in this very topic, if you look back a little. I would like nothing more than getting a few friends together and cooking that dish together, but find some, who are interested in cooking in my age (in that kind of cooking that is). If you do, let me know who they are, I want to meet them!

has anyone ever tried the Ducasse LALR? I suppose they don't change the recipe of that very often. It is one of the dishes he served at the meal, at which pretty much all of the 3* from the world ate at ADPA. Knowing Christophe Moret, I am pretty sure, that he has one of the most succesful versions in Paris. Lièvre de Picardie rôti / à la royale / en civet 100 € If it does what it says, it should give a comparison of the classic ways of preparing hare, which could be of some interest.

Phild, these pictures are quite delicious, do you some of the other courses you ate there? It makes it even more interesting.

yes, most of the stuff I read about it mentioned it as being one service. However, some have asked and received a second helping, which explains the disappearance of the little things.

Well, I'm going and they are going to do it for one person, which is good news. Can't wait to discover it. It looks just too good to be true.

Good lord, that Grande Cascade deal looks too good to be true. Hope they have that in January still.

Had a great meal here a few weeks back. Service was great, much better than the first time round and in general the standards remained as high as when I first was here (sometime in May or so). Bread was excellent, and the whole meal was at least very good. Divine were a grouse, a truly outstanding warm foie gras, and easily the best cheese in England (on the same level as that of Passard's and Piege's at the Crillon). Wines were good, considering the budget limit I gave them, and in general, I have trouble again, with people who dislike it that much (that seems to become a common theme with restaurants I enjoy). The only issue I can see, is that first-time customers might not be treated as warmly as some. Apart from that, the meals here were so good, that I am going back very soon, so stay tuned. Here's the review from my last meal.

Thanks, That is quite a list. If I go, I'll go for the 160 menu, that seems to be the best value/interest ratio I can see. It definitely counts among those places that most interest me at the moment in Paris

speaking of classical: The Taillevent website mentions a LALR on the suggestions du moment. Also, their wine list seems incredibly reasonable, at least for Parisian restaurants of that standing.

Thanks, I sent them a mail, and they said that it wouldn't be a problem. Well, it might happen. If I go, what other things are outstanding?

After having read quite a bit of positive stuff on Briffard, I'm considering going in January. As I'm likely to go alone, I'd like to know if you can order the game pithiviers also for one, or if they do it only for two and more? Also, does that have to be pre-ordered?

Take a look at this : http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/francais/carte/carte-chasse.pdf reads like a pretty interesting game menu. That 3 course lievre dish mustn't be too horrible, the rest sounds pretty tempting too.