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vice

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by vice

  1. 1 oz lemonhart 151

    1 oz lustau manzanilla papirusa

    1 oz lustau east india

    2 dashes angostura orange

    stir, up, lemon twist

    rum provides a solid anchor. dry sherry brings nice acidity to balance two rich ingredients. solera smooths out the other two, which i find can be troublesome to mix with on occasion. pretty satisfying.

    eta: bitters

  2. I'm lucky enough to have a friend who farms oysters. When he comes over to parties, he'll bring a couple 5-gallon pails full. We usually stand around shucking for half an hour or so, and the platters empty out just about as fast as we can fill them. However, it's not all that bad, for a couple reasons. First, you're shucking, so you get first dibs when you decide you want an oyster. Second, and by far more importantly, people's interest wanes pretty rapidly (inconceivable I know), which leaves you with a bucket full of oysters. I can tell you there's no better feeling in the world than realizing you've lost count of how many oysters you've eaten.

    Incidentally, oyster knives have some subtle differences, and which one you prefer probably comes down to personal preference. I like a longer blade that tapers at the edge like this one. The Oxo looks a little shorter, but it would probably be fine. Whatever you do, just don't confuse that one with their clam knife.

  3. What "frees" you is internalizing the ingredients and the procedure, and that just comes with practice -- not from memorizing a ratio.

    I think this is a key point. Practice -- making the same or similar recipes again and again -- will eventually make clear that many recipes that initially seem disparate reduce to a common theme (or ratio perhaps?). In this sense, Ruhlman's book is not necessarily a "cure" for recipes, but may rather represent a short cut to the extensive practice that ordinarily would be required to attain comfort with winging it in the kitchen.

  4. My problem will be storage, but I'll make it work. I'm really liking the big cubes.

    I recently picked up a used 5-cu.ft. chest freezer to handle the overflow from my rather small refrigerator. One of the biggest benefits is that I can have sooo much ice on hand. I keep a bin in the regular freezer and have twelve trays on deck should everybody I know stop by at the same time for drinks. Yep, (I've felt weird when I've caught myself thinking this, but) it's pretty close to bliss. Nothing strikes fear into the heart of the cocktail enthusiast like the thought of running out of ice.

  5. Indeed, one of the most common swizzling techniques I have seen involves spinning the swizzle stick back and forth while simultaneously plunging it up and down in the glass.

    Indeed. Nicely demonstrated under 'Ethos' on Pegu's website. Not a swizzle being swizzled, but the technique's the same.

  6. Given the volume of evidence I've seen on the layered QPS, I guess I'll stand in disagreement with you until such time as you present a source.  I'm not as opposed to your supposition that demerara rum is essential to a QPS (for, you could get a layered effect with demerara, perhaps not as striking, but still).  However, none of the recipes I've seen insist on demerara.

    From David Wondrich's Equire Drinks column (link):

    The original recipe calls for not one of the light, suave rums made in Trinidad, but rather a heavy, fragrant Demerara rum, from nearby Guyana. Trinidad's rum industry didn't really kick into high gear until World War II, y'see, and before that they seem to have made do with what was lying around the 'hood. If you're butch enough, go Demerara -- Lemon Hart is an excellent brand (Do not use the 151-proof).

    I would only add that I see no reason not to use the overproof as long as the recipe is adjusted to bring the final alcohol content within reason.

  7. I recently visited a friend who is apprenticing at a farm that certainly falls under the category of "free-range, humanely-raised livestock producer". My stay happened to fall on piglet castration day. If done correctly, castration is a very quick process involving a small incision that does not require surgical closure. That said, it is not "pretty" nor easily reconciled with an idyllic vision of bucolic serenity. The piglets can feel it - they make you more than aware of that fact. However, I don't know how much of a difference anaesthesia would make. Yes, less pain would be incurred from the incision, but there would still be soreness afterwards. Moreover, I suspect (as evidenced by the pre-incision squealing) that simply handling the piglets causes as much or more stress than the incision itself. I think it needs to be realized that rearing livestock in any manner requires a certain degree of handling that may, at times, be stressful to the animal.

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  8. Now I just have to perfect the tart, and I'll be over Al for good...

    Vice, I have found that the recipe in Cucina Simpatica, their cookbook, is easy and rock solid. I usually blast the heat, myself -- tasty char or aggression, I'm not sure.

    As for grilled pizza, well, the gang's working on it over here.

    Good to hear, Chris. As it happens, I have some dough maturing in the fridge right now that will have a date with some coals later this week. Now I just need to pick up some scallions...

  9. Leap-Frog Cocktail

    1 Lump of Ice. (few lumps fridge ice)

    The Juice of 1/2 Lemon.

    1 Glass Gin. (2 oz No. 209 Gin)

    1 Split of Ginger Ale. (Reed's Extra Ginger Brew)

    Serve in long tumbler.

    London Buck Cocktail

    1 Lump of Ice.

    1 Glass Dry Gin. (2 oz No. 209 Gin)

    The Juice of 1/2 Lemon.

    1 Split of Ginger Ale. (Fever Tree)

    Use long tumbler.

    I was looking up drinks featuring ginger ale tonight and noticed that these two are identical as far as I can tell. In any compendium like the Savoy, you're undoubtedly going to be treading on similar territory with some drinks, but this is the first instance I can recall of an exact duplication. Are there others? Curious too, considering these are only a page apart (in the '99 Pavillion edition). Figured someone would have noticed somewhere along the way.

  10. Do you want well-prepared food, or easy clean-up? Yes, the stove is a mess. But with a shallower pan, you're in more control of the cooking. Which matters more?

    Well-prepared food. In the end, this is of course a matter of personal preference, but what's in the pan ought to be paramount when deciding which pan it's going in. If delicacy akin to that needed for a fish fillet is required, use a pan that allows easiest access. I have no problem cooking more robust items in a rondeau without compromising their quality, and so I do.

  11. shallow frying is better done in a rondeau than a sauté pan

    Just curious about this. The main difference between the rondeau and the saute pan is the height of the sides. When frying, won't the high sides on the rondeau get in the way when you go to turn or remove food?

    the intermediate height of the sides is such that it is still easy enough to get in and turn or remove food, while preventing much more grease splatter than a saute pan. this is especially beneficial when cooking items that only need to be turned one or a few times (i.e., pre-braise browning, pan-fried chicken, etc.)

    The higher sides of a rondeau are definitively inferior to those of a saute pan. Easier is easier.

    Well, that depends: to repurpose an earlier comment of yours, fact or opinion? It's easier to me to have to deal with an extra 2 inches of pan than to have to clean the stove. Even with a splatter screen, the stove gets messier with a shallower pan.

  12. Thanks for those replies. I tried all winter to get small eggs from my guy at the farmers' market, but he kept telling me he wouldn't have any until spring. Having had a couple of egg drinks, I can see why they'd be better suited to winter, so I guess that leaves me using large eggs.

    Toby, I'd love to try the Golden Age, but I'm not sure I can get the Brugal Anejo here. Could you suggest a substitute?

    a gold Cuban-style rum would get you close (FdC, Bacardi, Matuselem)

  13. shallow frying is better done in a rondeau than a sauté pan

    Just curious about this. The main difference between the rondeau and the saute pan is the height of the sides. When frying, won't the high sides on the rondeau get in the way when you go to turn or remove food?

    the intermediate height of the sides is such that it is still easy enough to get in and turn or remove food, while preventing much more grease splatter than a saute pan. this is especially beneficial when cooking items that only need to be turned one or a few times (i.e., pre-braise browning, pan-fried chicken, etc.)

  14. ...the whole point of the 'Club' was to be able to have a bit of London out there on the frontier, was it not?

    as much of London as one could reasonably acquire in a fairly removed setting, meaning, i imagine, that compromises may have had been made (again, not that plymouth is a compromise). this puzzle sounds like a job for a certified cocktail historian. if only we knew where to find one...

  15. Our grilled pizza cook-off has inspired one of my friends to grill a "white" pizza with clams and arugula next weekend.  (It sounds delicious).  I've asked him to report back to us, with photos, on his efforts. 

    Has anyone had experience with grilling a seafood pizza?

    Yep, chopped clams, garlic, olive oil, parsley, lemon zest, and my standard mix of fontina, pecorino, and parmiggiano. A fantastic combination.

  16. for some reason i haven't touched the orange bitters in a while. i usually reach for the peychaud's...

    1.5 oz. cognac (gaston lagrange VS)

    .5 oz. del maguay chichicapa

    .5 oz. lemon juice

    .5 oz. lime juice

    spoonful of sugar

    3 dashes regan's orange bitters

    orange twist

    i used a split citrus formula because half a lemon was available and i had tiny limes with less than 1 oz. juice.

    beautiful contrasts.

    been on a mezcal kick recently, and this seemed intriguing. ordinarily, i enjoy rather tart cocktails, but if i correctly interpreted the spoonful to be a teaspoonful, this is a bit too acerbic even for my taste. will give it a shot again with half an ounce of agave nectar or rich simple.

  17. I'm horrible at making doughs, so I went with a pre-made (but not pre-cooked) dough from Fresh and Easy. I work it pretty well while it is still cold (the one time i let it get to room temp before throwing it, it ended up paper thin in the middle and too thick around the edges). I let it warm just a little from the heat of my hands, and throw it until it makes a crust about the size of a standard 12" dinner plate.

    I use a no-knead method for pizza dough with great success. See slkinsey's description. To my taste, salt is needed - 2 tsp per kilo of flour. I roll mine when I'm going to grill it and haven't noticed any ill effects. There are still plenty of air pockets that inflate when the first side is cooking.

  18. Great timing for this cook-off.  I need help with the technique itself.  Last week, when my oven stopped working, I attempted a batch of grilled pizzas, but I had a problem with the crusts getting too well-done, while the toppings weren't done enough.

    I tried cooking over the heat and beside the heat -- but I had problems.  Can somebody give me the 411 on how to get the toppings hot and melted and the crust crusty but not burned?

    edited for clarity

    Depending on how hot your coals are, you might need to monitor doneness very closely. I use a spatula and tongs to peek under the crust and rotate on and off the heat to achieve the proper level of charred spots. Then I flip it onto a cutting board to apply toppings, then slide the whole works back on. Rotate again while monitoring the underside and to melt cheese. Your toppings will not be cooked at all during the grilling process, so pre-cook if necessary and have everything warm or at room temperature.

  19. I know this is a mint thread...

    For the spiciest ginger syrup you want to not add water to the ginger, you want to use the ginger water.  I have tossed some ginger in a blender/vita prep/hobart and the when it is well ground gathered it up and squeezed it to get the ginger liquid out then added sugar to that.  You really don't need much liquid as you add twice the volume of sugar to it.

    Toby

    So then fine-grating could be a good alternative for those who don't want to make large quantities or can't pony up for a juicer. I can squeeze a significant amount of liquid out of grated ginger. Certainly labor intensive for one or a few drinks, though.

  20. I have found that, if you cannot make ginger syrup of the kind Toby is using (fresh ginger juice mixed with sugar -- which is not very practical for home mixologists) then you can do very well by aggressively muddling plenty of thin slices of fresh ginger with simple syrup and double straining on the way out to catch all the tiny pieces of ginger.

    how about microplaning some ginger and infusing in simple, then straining? may be a more attractive option depending on your preference for serious elbow grease (muddler) vs. shredded knuckles (grater)...

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