coquille

So, about a month or so ago, 2 new restaurants opened in Metuchen. One replaces the Japanese tea house and is billed as "French-International," but when I went in to look at their menu, they seem to be so unfocused - I'll wait a while before checking it out. The other place is part coffeehouse, part creperie, part cafe - Cafe Paris, on Main Street. Very pleasant interior, with a mix of couches and cafe tables plus beautiful Parisian murals on the walls. However, this place is screwed up. Paper-printout menus in franglais, with lots of crepes (at high prices - IMO, $8 is too much for a simple dessert crepe), some panini (why no baguettes?), standard coffeehouse desserts, and a few "specials" - lamb stews, duck a l'orange, coq au vin, etc. Location seemed great, it's BYO, different sort of menu... but the food was horrible, and the local high school server was so tremendously inappropriate. Went last night for dinner: one of my dining companions had a "saucisse" panini (breakfast sausage patty, undercooked bacon, NO DIJON MUSTARD - or mustard at all - available as a condiment...), one had boeuf bourgignon (light orange in color, and described by the diner as "like what I get at the hospital cafeteria"), and I had their attempt at steak frites (fakey grilled looking rectangle of some part of cow, terrible taste, awful poivre vert sauce - only thing decent were the fries). I kept looking around the place wondering: a) who the heck is behind this? (anyone know??), and b) what will appear next in this space?...

Here's the original announcement for the opening of Pop's Pierogi...

Sorry for the delay in posting, but I've been a bit under the weather -- which did nothing to stop me from having a delightful meal at Casa Mono with the others. Charming place with Batali's signature style all over it, from the signage to the culinary preps to the spot-on service. Wine service at Mario Batali's restaurants never fails to please me. I've never had a server or sommelier disappoint me with a recommendation, and our waitress on Saturday was true to form. We were going to order dishes that were all over the map, and since the group was interested in red, I asked for a very food-flexible red in a more Old World vs. New World style. Without missing a beat, our server recommended a reasonably priced and very worthwhile workhorse of a wine - a 1997 Rioja that was certainly enjoyable on its own, but also very food-friendly. We had no problem downing it. I also noticed with great pleasure the way "cuartos de vino" (quartinos, for those of you familiar with Batali's other establishments) were served: empty carafe and fine stemware brought to the table with the opened bottle presented for review and then poured, generously, in front of the patrons. Perfect. And the food... well, we ordered a fair number of dishes, so I think we got a very good impression of the restaurant. Across the board, everything was generously seasoned, which brought out great flavor in all the dishes. I think only 1 dish disappointed me; everything else ranged from "merely tasty" to delicious: Freebie = dish of addictive olives. We tore through them and sopped up the marinating olive oil with our bread. Pan con Tomate - well-grilled bread rubbed with flavorful tomato. Bacalao Croquetas with Orange Alioli - in a previous post, Big E found the alioli "a little overpowering," but I found it quite the opposite. The rich cod and the crisp crust were just really fun. Fried Anchovies - ooh... delicious! I'm a saltaholic, and these babies are salty! But perfectly fried, and irresistable. Might have liked a squirt of lemon, but that's nitpicking. Sepia a la Plancha - I wouldn't have thought that cuttlefish would have been one of my favorite dishes, but it was. Perfectly cooked, with a bright sprinkling of fresh herbs... just wonderful. Scallops with Cava and Chorizo - the one dish that failed to impress. Looked beautiful, but I found the scallops to be on the slimy side, and the sauce seemed not to go over well with our group. Duck Egg with Mojama - Accurately described in previous posts. A winner at our table. Perfectly fried egg that oozed its richness over itty-bitty roasted fingerling potatoes, and topped with this funky "prosciutto-like" tuna. Tripe with Chickpeas and Morcilla - considering I'm not a fan of tripe, this was good. Rather cassoulet-like, but tripe is still take-it-or-leave it for me. Sweetbreads with Fennel al Mono - whoa. These sweetbreads were awesome! Perfectly cooked through - tender, with a great crisp-breaded crust, sweet, and moist. Just delicious. I can't comment on the fennel, though, as that's not my speed. JJ? Lamb with Preserved Lemons - another winner. JJ's piece was cooked a smidge more than he might have liked, but Lauren's and my chops were done just right -- so flavorful, and the preserved lemons and shavings of crispy sunchokes were fun touches. Artichokes a la Plancha - bright and zingy from lemon; well-prepared. The sprinkling of mint on top was a treat. Brussels Sprouts a la Plancha - simply caramelized and dressed, even a non-Brussels Sprouts person could enjoy these. Desserts, in my opinion, weren't as tempting as I might have liked (nothing along the lines of a new olive oil gelato, for instance...!). We ordered: Bunuelos (Bay leaf fritters) - small, beignet-batter coated bay leaves. You eat them like an artichoke, scraping the fried dough off with your teeth. Considering how flavorful everything else was that we'd had previously, I was surprised this lacked a little oomph. Even a topping of confectioner's sugar would have zipped it up a bit. Mono Sundae (Prune armagnac ice cream with Arrope and Almonds) - 3 scoops of subtley pruney ice cream with heavily candied pumpkin that seemed quite molasses-y, sprinkled with nearly micro-planed shavings of almonds and a pinch of sea salt. This was a bit tastier, but really, the best combination was to have one of the bay leaf fritters in conjunction with a spoonful of this dish. This place has a charming vibe, great food, and super value. I'll happily go again, and often. And next time, when I'm felling better, I'll check out the sherries, which sounded very appealing.

So is she!

Agreeing with mikec -- pasta is absolutely the way to go (maybe some seafood to start), but do not go with the wine pairings. The list is amazing, as are recommendations off of it, but the pre-set pairings are not up to par.

Good heavens... all I wanted to do was make duck confit, but the fat alone could cost a small fortune! I need to make 12 legs, and while my Asian market has legs for $2.59/lb, they don't have just the fat. Only grocery store in the area has it for $15.29/lb, and I know I need a lot to cover the legs. For that price, should I just buy some whole ducks at the Asian market, too, to render the fat and at least get more meat out of the bargain? (And how many would I need to provide enough fat?) Or does anyone have any more economical ideas?

I know it wasn't one of your original choices, but I have to second Aberlour. I can get it for under $30 in NJ, and it stands up time after time in blind tastings with outrageously priced scotchs and amongst scotch "snobs." If you can find it, it's so worth picking it up to try.

Wolfgang Puck & specialty pizzas... apple martinis... In-N-Out Burgers... For good or for bad, what do you predict will be the most famous trend (or celebrity) to come out of the LA culinary scene in the next few years -- by that, I mean, something or someone that your average American knows about in, say, the next 3 years? ...And, what or who would you prefer to see the average American credit the LA food scene with in that time?

Chef Central accepts coupons! All those Bed Bath & Beyond card, Linens N Things brochures, and Macy's circulars? Bring 'em in! They don't make a big production of announcing it, but I believe the policy is that 1 coupon per customer is accepted. So, find the best percentage off from someone else and then go shopping there.

Thanks guys - sounds good. Looking forward to checking it out!

Anyone else been recently? And has anyone had the vegetarian option? We're planning on going this Sunday for my birthday, but my mother is a vegetarian so I like to make sure that her meal will be on par with those of the rest of the family.

Kim WB: I thought your "very yucky" summed it up perfectly! Rachel: Definitely fish skin. It was like finding a "gator" (what's left of a tire that died) in the middle of the highway; I pretty much had a whole fish skin in my bowl -- which may explain why jhlurie didn't have quite so much stuff in his! Jason: "noodle dish.. rice cakes... shredded pork"? Not written up because I didn't see it/have any! Maybe the other table snapped it up a bit too soon... jhlurie: not necessarily looking for spice in those buns... just a bit more personality. Fat-Guy: As for wines, Tommy hit it right that I think we missed 2 great bottles due to TCA. It was tough to adequately address all the beverages in addition to all the dishes and in addition to all the conversations. Sensory overload. I personally thought the 2001 Alsace One went best across the board -- it's a great QPR, bright fruit, and super-flexible. The 2002 Moore's Creek Hunter Valley Semillon/Sauv Blanc blend was probably my runner-up in terms of working with the dishes; lightly grassy, lightly petullant. I got to the Gerhard Schulz Riesling Spatlese a little too late in the meal. Enjoyable alone, but I bet it would have been terrifc for handling the spicier fare; beautiful mouthfeel, nice light spice and fruit combo. If that baby was, in fact, $7, then it's a steal. Other wines present: 2001 Moletto Prosecco, 2001 Kirralaa Bushvine Shiraz, 2001 Michel Lynch Bordeaux Blanc, 2002 Babich Sauv Blanc (always a goodie, but a little too warm by the time I got to it), and 1999 Leonard Kreusch Riesling Beerenauslese (our only sweetie, it easily worked with the desserts). Then there was your Soju super-saki... not a big saki fan (and I prefer 'em cold rather than warm), but this one did the trick for me. Kim WB said it was some crazy combination of fermented items -- could you please provide more details on that?

My First eGullet Event by coquille OK, there was so much that went on at this event, it’s hard for me to know where to begin – plus, since we were at 2 tables, I can’t offer a complete picture of what everyone thought. But, Mark, Bara Sapir, Rosie, Lowell, Kim, Tommy, Brodsky, DoubleO, Rachel Perlow, Jason Perlow, jluhrie, Steven Shaw, Ellen, Jenny (Steven’s mom), Nick, coquille, Brian, and Maria were all on hand to chow down on about a bazillion courses and to down a bunch of alcoholic libations. A run-down: Appetizers: Spicy Kelp – not on the original list, but a welcome start to the meal. A mound of “sea noodles” with a kick, it was popular at our table. Pork Soup Dumplings – Very delicate, but not lacking in taste… Jason’s pix and Kim’s description say it all – other than “mmm!” Pan Fried Shanghai Buns – Nicely fluffy dough, but I would have liked the filling to have a bit more spunk; a drizzle of the dipping sauce brought it all together, though Spicy Capsicum Cellophane Noodles – with bits of chicken and shrimp on top, this dish was all about the right balance of “textured heat”. And cilantro on top was a bright addition. Scallion Pancake Deluxe – not sure what made them deluxe – seemed like a standard scallion pancake to me, but that fit the bill quite nicely. Ox Tongue and Tripe in Hot Sauce – the tongue had a bit of a corned beef texture, which was fine by me, but the tripe may be best summed up by the “Ew” that reached me from somewhere across the table. Chewy with no purpose, in my book. I don’t get the impression this was a bit hit. Jellyfish – not sure of the prep on this – this was another surprise addition to the menu. Tough and cartiledgy, Rosie compared it to eating someone’s earlobe. Kim summed it up as, “Very yucky.” Soup: Fish Head Casserole – Rich, nicely seasoned broth, but it was like “Fish Surprise” – a tail here, a facial bone there, and lots of flabby skin were all things that needed to be eaten around. Looked like what gets washed ashore on a bad beach day. I think straining these elements out would have made this more enjoyable. I’ll happily take the chef’s word for it that there are plenty of fish heads involved in the recipe, but I don’t really need the entire corpse floating about. More broth, less flotsam. Mains: Ruby Pork with Sesame Buns – lovely flavor, but the pork product was awfully fatty (maybe I just got the wrong pieces). An extremely tasty combination, though, when an actual piece of meat was stuffed with some greens in a piece of toasty, flaky sesame bun. Salt and Pepper Softshell Crab – Hands down the winning dish of the evening. The flavor in the batter was remniscent of fried Vietnamese springrolls, and the sauteed green peppers mixed in with the bed of lettuce were a delightful surprise. Super. Shanghai Jumbo Shrimp (shell on) – The shrimp (perhaps a little overcooked?) provided nice variety, and the broccoli was a great conduit for the lightly sweet sauce. Stir Fried Greens with Garlic – Straightforward, nicely prepared bok choy, but I didn’t get much of a hit of garlic. Sea Cucumber and Pork Tendon in Shrimp Roe Sauce – this dish confused me. A seemingly random combination of ingredients and textures that I did not find enjoyable . Furthermore, I was not convinced that this was a shrimp roe sauce – seemed more of a “generic brown-sauce”. However, to be fair, this was better than the jellyfish. Aromatic Chicken Stuffed with Sweet Sticky Rice – I envision this being on the table in “A Christmas Story”. Tasty dish, though sometimes a little tough to distinguish between bird and starch, as it was so meltingly tender that it almost all melded together. Chinese comfort food. Beef with Vegetable in Roast Pepper Sauce – nice kick, but I had major problems with the texture of the beef. Maybe I just got a bum piece or two, but it seemed rather gristly. Fresh Bacon Sauteed in Spicy Sauce – not especially bacony, but a pure spiciness came through in the sauce. Our table was very pleased with this dish. Dessert: Pancake Stuffed with Sweet Red Bean Paste – crepelike flavor in the dough and a subtle filling made this a very pleasing dessert. Kim says she usually gets it with confectioner’s sugar dusted on top, and I could see that being a nice addition. But this was very tasty and a great match for the dessert wine. Was it DoubleO who called these “Chinese Fig Newtons”? Wine Flavored Sweet Rice Ball in Soup – Lightly sweet “broth” with bits of white rice (picture diner chicken soup) and little rice “gnocchi” remniscent of tiny bay scallops. Perfect flavor to go with the dessert wine, but those rice balls were disconcerting. Tommy likened the texture to bubble gum, and it’s true that chewing had very little effect on the critters. Basically, a bowl of starch. Oranges – please tell me I don’t need to describe these? All in all, a very interesting and filling! dinner. I love when others design the menu, as I wind up trying things I would never pick out on my own, but I want to go back and try some other items that caught my eye while reviewing the menu I picked up . It would be nice to hear some of the comments from “the other table”…

can't believe how fast you all put up pix, etc! but it could take me a while to get a full transcript up -- that pesky needing-to-earn-a-paycheck thing keeps getting in my way. pleasure meeting and putting on the feedbag with y'all, though it's making work a little difficult today, as i keep obsessing about those wonderful softshell crabs!

I've heard mixed things about Epernay (good food, but maybe not for the $). If it helps with recommendations, I don't necessarily need my "replacement" to be in North Jersey - I'm actually in Central...

I loved Pourquoi Pas. I miss Pourquoi Pas. I loved its cuisine, its BYO policy, its charm, and its changing regional and seasonal menus. Is there any place anyone knows of that has any potential of being a replacement?

Had been there several years ago and enjoyed it and was thinking of going back. How is it these days? (And what is their wine and Armanganc menu like $-wise?) Or where else do you prefer for a comparable or better (but not exorbitant) experience? I'd like to treat a foodie friend of mine for his birthday.

Sawadee (Pad Thai's sibling in Metuchen)

How would you all compare Pad Thai to its counterpart in Metuchen (name forgotten, at the moment)?

100% true!!!!!!

Royal Thai is on Oak Tree Road in the strip mall where the Blockbuster is.

Kim - Marianna's is an Italian grocery store/deli/prepared foods store, and they recently expanded and put in a large cheese section in the back. It's on Main Street, and if you're nearby, I do recommend a visit.

one more goodie: royal thai in edison. atmosphere alone is transporting enough to make the visit enjoyable.

not only will they match others' prices, but you can use competitor's coupons. i can't understand anyone trashing CC.

i think other restaurants should follow the frog and the peach's lead and put a "v" next to truly vegetarian dishes. it doesn't detract from anything, and, in fact, is commendable, in my book. (i'm not a vegetarian, but my mom is.)