Harters

I'm interested to see the north east week, particularly to see how Charlie Larkin (Marquis at Alkham - in Kent) gets on. Lad can certainly cook but has fuck all idea about how to pace delivery of a tasting menu. IMO, of course. Twice, we've eaten there. Twice herself and I have run out of conversation, other than wondering how long the next fucking plate was going to take.

FIASCHETTERIA TOSCANA Comparisions are odious, so the old saying goes. But this was our fourth and final Venice dinner. And the first three had been really good. And I mean, really good. And this one just wasn’t. Perhaps if it had been our first meal, we might have thought different. But it wasn’t. And we didn’t. Comparisions, eh? White polenta features heavily on the fairly extensive menu. It cropped up on both starters. First in an underseasoned wet form on which were scattered a generous portion of very fresh, very sweet prawns. It also appeared in the “set and fried” version accompanying a small fillet of sole, with the classic Venetian “saor” sauce. This is mainly onions in a sweet, yet vinegary, sauce, spiked with capers. It usually appears with sardines where the assertive flavour of the fish will stand up to the dressing. But the more delicate sole was overwhelmed by it. I’m a big fan of “fegato alla Veneziana” and will often order it at home if it’s on a menu. As might be expected on its home turf, this was a good version. Small squares of very lightly cooked calves liver; the long cooked onions almost meting away to form the sauce. More fried polenta as a carb. Beef fillet wasn’t the best piece of meat ever encountered. Now I know you don’t expect fillet to have as much taste as other cuts but this was very underwhelming and, indeed, a bit scaggy in parts. The red wine sauce was almost non-existant but the topping of finely diced caponata vegetables was a cracking idea. Contorni were €7 each which doesn’t sound a great bargain and, when you see you’re only getting two artichoke hearts, you know it’s not a bargain. Also not a bargain was the €20 glass of Merlot. Perhaps that’s why the waiter came back to point out the price to my wife. Or perhaps, she didn’t look the sort who would order a €20 glass. In any event, she was somewhat affronted by his attitude whatever the reasoning. My advice to the restaurant is that, if you don’t think customers know what they have ordered then don’t put these items on your freaking menu. We decided not to have dessert but did have espresso. It was OK but no more than that. One final point of interest to us was to see on the menu Welsh lamb and that Halen Mon was the kitchen’s salt of choice. It seemed odd to see produce from an hour’s drive from home on a menu on the other side of Europe.

ALLE TESTIERE They pack about 20 covers into this tiny room, offering two sittings. One at the just too early time of 7pm and the other at the just too late time of 9. We went with the early one. Food is excellent with the chef fully appreciating that, when you’ve got good ingredients, the best thing is to do as little as possible to them before they get to the plate. So, a plate of pilgrim scallops, or queenies as I’d usually know them, were served on the half-shell with no more than a scattering of chopped softened lemon and a few strands of mint. Absolutely bang-on for freshness. The other starter was also light and refreshing – salad leaves, some thinly sliced raw asparagus and a little pile of spider crab meat. Of course, with both plates being light, we scoffed the excellent bread like it was going out of fashion. For mains, sea bass fillets were served “Mediterranean style” – topped with delicious salty olives and capers and drizzled with a little olive oil. Alongside, a grilled tomato and some boiled potatoes. This really was seafood cookery at its simple best. Tuna was served properly cooked to medium rare instead of the fashionable “almost raw” and was all the better for it. There was a sauce, mainly reduced balsamic vinegar but, interestingly, spiked with juniper berries. On first bite, I wasn’t too sure about the berries – the resin-y taste didn’t seem quite right – but it was! A accompanying order of mixed vegetables was excellent – carrot, courgette, wilted chard, aubergine, grilled radicchio Desserts were also pretty good. A raspberry pannacotta was perfectly set and incorporated some small chunks of the fruit, which also appeared in the surrounding sauce. A slice of chocolate cake was excellent – both bitter and sweet, suggesting the use of a chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa solids. The only disappointment was the cream which looked and tasted as though it had been sprayed out of a can. Excellent espresso to finish. Service had been spot on throughout – but that’s almost a given in Italy.

IL RIDOTTO In spite of its hard surfaces and modernist decoration, Il Ridotto managed an attempt at retaining something of an air of intimacy. It’s to do with the tables being split between the two small rooms. Unfortunately, the attempt fails as the hard surfaces mean that, unless you are good at filtering out background noise, you are going to feel part of the conversations of neighbouring tables. The menu also fits the modernist style. Things kicked off with an interesting amuse – a disc of bread, topped with a spicy paprika jelly and pecorino, a little red pepper sauce to moisten the mouthful. For a starter, we opted for the “risotto for two” – good creamy rice, flecked with peas, mint and basil. Scallop roe flavoured the cooking stock and, perhaps, could have taken a more prominent role. A main of beef cheeks, braised in pinot noir, was excellent. A really deep flavour that only comes from good meat, cooked for a long time. There was some just wilted raddichio providing some crunch. The menu had also advertised raspberries and I’d thought “No! That’s so wrong that they must be going to do something creative”. But, no, it was just a few berries scattered in with the meat. And, yes, it was soooo wrong. Across the table, cod was being enjoyed. A small fried fillet sat on black lentils. In itself, this would have been good. But also on the plate was a “cod sandwich” – served cold, this was a salt cod mousse presented between two very thin “slices” of black rice. Really clever. Really good. For desserts, I’d hoped that “Our take on tiramisu” might finally be the chance for something really creative. A deconstructed version, perhaps? But, no, this was a bog standard tiramisu. A good one, though. Lots of booze, strong coffee and good chocolate. Thoroughly enjoyable in itself. There was certainly some creativity going on with the other plate. Small cubes of chocolate brownie, topped with hazelnut ice cream and surrounded by blobs of pumpkin puree. It sort of sounded like it might work and it did. There were good petit fours to accompany the expresso. These days, it seems like they are often an excuse for the pastry chef to dash off a few mini-desserts but, in keeping with the name, these were indeed little baked items – a langue de chat, biscotti, a lovely light jam sandwich sponge. It really had been a thoroughly interesting and enjoyable meal.

AL COVO We’d booked this place for our first night, as it was only a couple of minutes walk from our hotel and, arriving in the evening, wanted somewhere nearby and easy to find. Good choice. And not just for the location. Food was spot on for what we might have wanted for a perfect first night dinner. There was gnocchi to start, accompanied by a ragu of wild duck. This was long-cooked and much reduced and so was packed with flavour. The other starter was simplicity itself. Clams and white beans served in the cooking pan. Delicious sweet clams, mealy cannellini beans and a winey, garlicky, salty broth. And there was excellent bread to accompany it – grissini, ciabatta, the excellent thin stuff that I think is called “music paper”. And the basket was replaced with a fresh supply even before we’d finished off the first. As for mains, neither of us could see past frito misto. And what a good choice it proved to be. Each serving a really good selection of battered and fried seafood (squid, octopus, tiny fish that may or may not have been whitebait), a fillet of baby sole, another small fish of indeterminate origin and three tiny scallops served on the half shell. A little dish of sea salt was a thoughtful provision. As was a paper cone of matchstick potatoes. For desserts, we both opted for ice cream. In one serving, house made hazelnut , the flavour heightened by a sprinkling of nuts on top. In the other, very good vanilla, topped with liquorice powder. Now liquorice seems to be the “in thing” to add to desserts. It’s appeared on a number of menus in recent months. And, here, as in the other places, it is used so sparingly that, frankly, you can’t taste it. But this was the only slip in the cooking over the evening. We finished with reasonably good espresso.

I'm northern but I only eat pasties when there are no pies left. You'll have heard of the Wigan kebab? Three pies on a stick, innit.

And, if so, would you expect to be paying VAT on it?

LORD CLYDE, KERRIDGE, CHESHIRE Ooooh, this one is a bit of a find. Small pub in Kerridge which is just outside Bollington, in itself just outside Macclesfield. Half the pub manages to accommodate six tables set for eating with the other half seemingly devoted mainly to stand up drinking. On this lovely March day, hardier souls than us were eating outside. And there’s a menu that surprisingly punches well above its weight. There’s a good range of lunchtime sandwiches but, also, a really good carte that belies the fact you are in a small dining pub. There’s a pride in using local produce and there was none more so than in a sharing plate of “Flavours of the North West”. The Macclesfield Mezze if you will. From Cheshire, a cheese croquette, spiked with mustard, sat on some really fab homemade apple chutney. From north of the Mersey, chunks of black pudding battered and deep fried – meaty, salty, crispy, lovely; and a small pot of, erm ,potted shrimps, served with thick toast. From Cumbria, a peppery Cumberland sausage sat on a spoonful of mashed potato. Proper mashed potato, mind. None of your sloppy pomme puree. This was just potato mashed. Apparently spuds come from Aunty Denise’s farm at Peover – yep, they’re a tad keen on provenance. Oh, and there was a little air dried Cumbrian ham. This was, presumably, the excellent product made by Richard Woodall before he retired and sold his business (not sure who now owns it). Faultless – and a really good pub dish. For mains, braised beef with a pea risotto. This was a very generous portion of good shin – very long cooked and then shredded. It topped an equally generous portion of risotto and, in great idea, was itself topped with a small handful of pea shoots. Truth be told, I didn’t expect this to work too well but was able to sneak a couple of mouthfuls from my partner’s plate to confirm that, not only did it work, it worked exceptionally well. My own plate was Tatton Park venison, done three ways. Some perfectly rare loin. A rich livery faggot. And, the least successful, a little pie – good and enjoyable but needed a more reduced sauce and a slightly longer cooking for perfection. But it was still bloody good. There was a little cabbage, some more of the excellent mashed potato, and a few cubes of beetroot bringing a welcome earthiness to the plate. And a really good gravy. Much too full for dessert, we waddled away to work it off with a walk along the nearby canal bank.

Well, partly because the original mention of Shiraz was in response to my 2010 query. But mainly because I couldnt be arsed about being tidy and starting a new thread. Interesting that you don't rate Akbars. The more northern branches usually get a good response (and certainly from me it does). Perhaps it hasnt travelled well.

Better late than never. I got to Shiraz on this year's trip Even though I had booked, it was packed early evening and I had to wait some ten minutes for a table to come free. It remained packed throughout the time I was there. I went with the “mixed starter”, assuming correctly this would be a decent mezze for one. Well, it was a decent mezze for a very greedy one and would easily have fed two. There was a good houmous. And a mashed aubergine dish – similar in texture to the Lebanese moutabel but without the smoky flavour you get there. There was also yoghurt, lightly flavoured with shallot. These were pretty much generic middle eastern dips – none the worse for that, though. Yoghurt also appeared mixed with wilted spinach in the Persian dish of borani. The final dish was also specifically Persian – salad oliveh is a mix of potato, mayo, egg, gherkin and peas. It’s quite a solid affair which contrasted well with the dippy things. I ate this with the recommended nan – a large thin crispy bread, similar to a tandoori roti. And an order of torsi – mixed pickles, very vinegary with a chilli kick – the vegetables a little too soft for my taste. The menu had a range of stews but, while I was waiting, I could see most tables were getting stuck into kebabs of one form or another. So, I thought, that’ll do for me. Two very generously sized koobideh lamb kebabs – the minced meat had been shaped round a skewer prior to grilling. Meat was well flavoured and still very moist. I liked this a lot. Alongside, a grilled tomato and some perfectly steamed rice, very lightly flavoured with saffron – more for colour than flavour I suspect. It’s not an issue for me, but those who drink alcohol should note that Shiraz does not sell nor does it permit “bring your own”. Really enjoyed this solo dinner.

Ta, N. A trip will have to wait a while - all of my spare meagre public sector pension is going on holidays at present not high end eating. J

Thanks for this. I didnt know it existed - even though we were at L'Enclume only the other week. Seems to have also passed under the radar of our comrade-in-forks, Sped98. Alan can usually be relied on the champion all things Roganish. (I see you've also been a guest at Nutters - one of my favourite places in the metro area, although I have to pay of course )

JAMIE'S ITALIAN Yes, it’s a chain restaurant. But it’s been the most touted new city centre opening for some while, so we had to go and suss it out. The building has always been a stunner – designed by Edwin Lutyens in the 1920s for the Midland Bank, it’s now Grade 2 listed. The exterior is very Art Deco, the interior much more traditional banking hall. There’s been a very thoughtful conversion and it now takes its place among the “great rooms” at this end of King Street – along with Rosso and Room. Truth be told, the room was probably the most successful part of the evening. Although our young Canadian waitress was full on for giggly efficiency. Or, perhaps, efficient giggling. There wasn’t a great start. Drinks took forever to arrive. Then the first three items we tried to order were “off”. So, it was all a bit second best. A starter of arancini seemed promising stuffed with smoked mozzarella and porcini and might have been good if only they had tasted of smoked cheese and mushroom. As it was, there were a couple of fairly solid balls of rice in crisp coating, that were bland and under-seasoned. A tomato based dipping sauce did little to lift the dish. The menu makes a “big thing” of their planks of antipasto dishes. Yes, it arrives on a piece of wood and, for reasons inexplicable, the plank is set in front of you on two tins of tomatoes. This particular plank had char-grilled vegetables which were pleasant enough. For mains, I’d originally fancied osso bucco only to be told it was “off” as it was out of season. Never realised that restaurants had seasons for veal but there you go. So it was on to a quickly decided second choice of chicken liver ravioli. I’d expect this to have been quite a rich dish but, oh no, another bland offering. And the pasta wasn’t so much “al dente” as plain old under-cooked. Oh, and the cream sauce seemed to be very much just thin cream with no other flavourings, except a couple of shards of bacon. In other circumstances, I would have considered sending this back but it was neither the time or place as the decision to eat here had been made by others in the party. Much, much better was the thin slice of feather steak, cooking the work of moments and with the meat packed full of flavour. There was a little rocket salad and a good, pokey tomato salsa. And good chips – none of your fat chips or fries, these were proper chip-sized chips. Perhaps the disappointment was a matter of poor choice but this isn’t somewhere I’m in a rush to return to.

Just had a reply from Marc. Apparently menu black is now only once a month (next on 2 June)by invitation. Unfortunately we have a family birthday committment that day so we've made a reservation for the 6th on the 6 courser. Maybe we should have an egullet outing to Oxton later in the year and give the black menu a good seeing to?

Sent 'em an email. Ah, well, if I can get in, then it's Menu Black for Mr & Mrs H.Or Bespoke. Or the 6 courser. I'm really not fussed - we'll be happy to eat whatever Marc puts in front of us.

Trying to score a reservation for June (their online system seems to be playing up). I see from the website that the menu has been pared back to a simpler six course affair at £58 - although I'm not sure if Menu Black is still available to favoured punters. Just by the by, speaking of Oxton, I see Claire Lara, winner of "Masterchef the Professionals" has opened her restaurant at the Riverhill Hotel. Looks like a fairly standard "Modern Brit" offering at reasonable prices.

Overlooking the race course, it must be a fab view on race days. Even on an early spring lunchtime it was pretty good. There’s a comfy bar area and a very modern dining area – big picture windows looking out over the course with swivel chairs allowing punters to whizz round to watch their nag come in last. Lunch is a bargain. Two courses of Modern British cooking for a tenner. Another four quid gets you the third course. It’s a short set menu – three choices at each course – but it was interesting enough that eating decisions were not forced upon us. And there’s a welcoming, generous vibe to the place – tap water was offered, along with bottled and a bread replenishment was also on offer. Good signs (although bread was bog standard baguette). Leek and potato soup was warm and comforting. Just the thing for the day as the wind can’t half whip across the Roodee. A smoked salmon salad was also a pretty good starter. The fish from the rather excellent Llandudno Smokery (they sell at a number of north west farmers markets) has a delicate smoke which I like. This sat on some rocket and frisee. There was also a few bits of crisply fried squid and a vinaigrette dressing spiked with clams. The restaurant is a bit “worthy” in its devotion to local produce and each table has a little card indicating the suppliers and the food miles travelled. So, in the spirit of that, I can tell you that the rapeseed oil in the dressing comes from Great Ness Oil and had travelled 36 miles from Shropshire. With such a committment, it’s inevitable that chicken is going to come from Reg Johnson at Goosnargh (53 miles). No problems there – he rears bloody fine fowl. Here the leg had been long cooked in a braise and was delicious, literally falling from the bone.. It sat on sauté potatoes, a scattering of bacon and onion and a tomato based sauce. Good dish in anyone’s book. Well, anyone apart from my partner who is not a great lover of chicken. She’d opted for the veggie dish (I’d quite fancied it myself) – a basil and pine nut risotto being the main feature. Decent risotto, not the overly claggy variety you so often see in non-Italian restaurants (and , indeed, in some Italians). It was surrounded by a little caponata and topped with rocket and Parmesan. It worked very well. Desserts were a game of two halves. A chocolate and orange torte was, presumably, bought in but was good and rich – the richness cut by a raspberry puree. A berry and pear crumble was not a success. The crumble was served in its own miniature casserole dish, with the custard served in a miniature bucket. You could forgive the twee presentation if the food was good but it just wasn’t. The berries, presumably at this time of year out of the freezer, were in desperate need of some sugar. They really were unpleasantly sharp (and were, presumably, from Willington Fruit Farm - 11 miles). And the custard was thin and just not very good. There was decent coffee to finish. Service had been good. It’s a popular lunch spot and rightly so. Glad we booked - might not have got in otherwise. Then we went for a walk round the city walls, stopping off to stock up at the Cheese Shop. Oh, and the name of the restaurant? That’s the year horse racing first took place at Chester.

Grief! I realise that it's 2 years since we were last there. Too long. Far too long.

'Tis Mrs H's favourite dish there as she's not a great fan of "wet food". Personally I find the poached lamb dish there, and at Red n Hot, to be just too hot for my tastes.

This from the man who regularly schleps to The Smoke for a meal?

I'm a tad ashamed to admit it - but I've come to quite like Greg in recent times.

Have a great time. Please tell us about it - I need convincing to have a return visit and not feel the need to get a bag of chips on the way home.

No. I've been watching Masterchef and I'm not sure whether I'm more irritated by the voice-over (s usual) or the fact that every sodding plate of food seems to get the spoon treatment.

There’s a fair few east asian businesses that have grown up around the Wing Yip supermarket on Oldham Road. The Vnam Cafe is one and it does exactly what it says on the tin – it’s a caff and it’s Vietnamese. It’s not a cuisine I have experience in but, as far as I can tell, it’s making a stab at doing a good job. Summer rolls were soft and unctuous. Spring rolls were crisp and delicious. Both were helped along by a dipping sauce of very pokey red chilli, fish sauce and a sprinkling of peanuts. But the third of the starters was, perhaps, the star - six mini rice cakes, served hot and topped with a prawn and a little chilli and mint. Pork featured on all three main course plates. Two of us went with the BBQ belly pork with noodles and the other for the version with fillet and rice. All three were fine, bearing in mind we’re talking caff food here, although the meat was a little dry. Nice topping of crushed peanuts on the meat. Everything nicely arranged on the plate with a little herb salad alongside the meat and carb. A slightly different fish sauce based, erm, sauce was served in a little bowl – pouring it over the plate seemed a better idea than keeping it as a dipping sauce. It’s certainly a place I’d pop into for lunch if I was about to shop at the Wing Yip, but I’m not sure I’d cross the city centre for it. About a tenner a head for the two courses and a drink.

Yep, I read the Times article. Generally I'd agree that it was silly in parts. That said, you do often get a different spin on things if you read comments about some restaurants here on egullet and then read contributions to TripAdvisor. I suspect most punters have expectations when they go to a starred restaurant, particularly if they don't have many experiences of them to make comparisions. For example, if you'd turned up at the Sportsman for your first ever starred meal, and it was a weekend when the tasting menu isnt on, would you be disappointed? I think you might well be. For example, is a pub ever worth two stars - I look at the Hand & Flowers menu and really do wonder.