julot-les-pinceaux

Took me a while to realise that etc... was actually a restaurant, so I was looking for the complete list of Parisian one stars....

When will the 2009 Red Guide be published? In your opinion, what has happened at Le Grand Vefour? ← You mean how in hell did Guy Martin get a third star some day and was ever considered a major chef? I have no idea. I mean, I know the Michelin is as much in bed with Ducasse as they ever were with Bocuse, so this explains that. But Martin? No clue.

I heard it too. It is indeed a very quiet year. We might as well start discussing the 2010 edition in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

I had a quick lunch there last friday, and I must say that I was unimpressed. You know how bistronomique is fine dining food in a bistrot setting? Apicius looked to me like the exact opposite -- some brasserie food, admittedly good, in an incredibly exclusive setting and a wonderfully nice staff. It's interesting to have those two stereotypes in the same town, both exemplary of the rejection of traditional fine dining in different ways. Nouveau riche is the expression that jumped to my mind. We also say, in an admittedly nasty way, boucher enrichi. Not that I mind, mind you, but the place is without any connection to fine dining, history, culture or subtlety. It's very plain food, meant for uneducated diners with lots of pesos. Why not? The galette de pied de cochon was very emblematic of that style, thoroughly delicious, served with an inept juice and a salad seasoned like they do in chain restaurants. But the galette in itself was perfect, crispy outside, gelatinous inside, unrefined. The Carambar based petits-fours are another example of that fancy interpretation of junk food. Now I have more beef with the scallop dish they served me that smelled like laundray you forgot in the washing machine after it ran. I sent the dish back, and service was impeccable, proposed a replacement, but nevertheless conveyed the chef's verdict that this was the natural smell of truffle when mixed with vegetal oil. Well, to be fair, that definitely was the natural smell of rotten truffle. It's one thing to send a faulty dish, it's another to fault the diner. That is a strong disincentive for me to ever go back. Food Snob is right -- this is really a place to enjoy a tête de veau comfortably. Not some fine dining version of it, subtle and precisely prepared and inspired, but the pain old tête de veau. I'm not posting pics here since it is is too much of a pain but you can get them here.

Good for Gordon! But I am a bit disapointed that Robert at la Grande Cascade did not get the second star. Fréchon sounds like Savoy years ago: so long expected that it comes too late, fixing a past mistake with a new one. But as they all say, since it is Sarkozy's favourite... The first stars sound once again like Michelin running after the trend. Le Figaro confirmed most of these this morning.

I'm with Fresh_a. This is full of crap (pardon my French). First, Savoy is not in the 8th so he's not concerned by Simon's argument that there would be too many *** in the 8th. Second, Le Cinq and Taillevent used to be *** too, and there were not too many *** in the 8th then (there's no question that those two lost their third star fair and square). Also, if you count stars, the 8th always had more than half the total stars of Paris (off the top of my head, le Cinq, Stella Maris, Laurent, Taillevent, Dominique Bouchet, Spoon, Le Lancaster, Flora Danica, le Chiberta, les Ambassadeurs, Apicius, Lasserre, Senderens, l'Angle du Faubourg are all in the eigth) . Would you have said that one of Per Se, Jean-Georges or Ducasse when he was there should lose their third star because they were all along South Central Park? That's ridiculous. As often, this is Simon trying to show he's well connected and understands how it works. Good for him. I too am interested in the rising star. In particular, I'd like to know whether Robert at La Grande Cascade will get the second star he clearly deserves more than, say, l'Atelier de JR.

Can you believe those machines erased my response the first time? Anyway, as you rightly suspect, many lunch menus are subpar, such as Bristol or Meurice. The lunch menus which I know are as good as the regular stuff include: - La Table de Joël Robuchon, 55€ including wine, coffee, water and dessert. - Gérard Besson, 56€ for masterful ancient simple cuisine - Lasserre, 75€, for excellent food and a true sojourn in old fashioned art de vivre à la française - Michel Rostang, 78€, food lover feast - Ledoyen, 88€, old style three stars (i.e. aiming for the best, which few people do these days) - Guy Savoy has a 100€ Internet menu (only if you reserve online, one table per day) that gives you access to the whole menu almost (no caviar for you) and mostly to the uniquely exquisite experience that is a meal there. - Gagnaire, not sure how much these days, to experience the genius (I prefer to have my Gagnaire on DVDs - Last but not least, the incredible Alain Passard offers the incredible bargain of a 135€ menu at l'Arpège, to which you need to add ridiculously priced wines. It's always better than l'Ambroisie, which is probably its natural competitor in the "extraordinary food" category and has no prix fixe menu whatsoever. There are two special cases: - Le Cinq, at 85€, is excellent and gives you access to the whole experience, which is pretty unique (including wonderful service and some compartively cheap wines) - Les Ambassadeurs used to be great value at 75€ but word on the street is, they're firing Piège. FWIW, I find that there is almost no good value to be found between those top restaurants at one end and the bistronomiques like l'Ami Jean and La Régalade at the other end. Indeed that means you Benoit, Gaya, Vin sur Vin (Beuark). The only exceptions I would make of middle range restaurants where I don't feel I'm wasting my money are l'Ami Louis and mostly Ramsay's Véranda in Versailles.

He did already. That would be, he said, third star for le Bristol, two stars back for l'Espadon @ Ritz and one star for Paul Bert and Camdeborde.

My second time was way, way better than the first. I went for the lunch menu at 88€, which I heartily recommend. In fact, in the midst of what I consider very bad times for the quality of restaurants in France, Ledoyen is, along with la Grande Cascade, the only one of which I would say that they actually try to make the best possible food. Clearly, it's a place that benefit from being better known. I still regret a very cold, non-festive ambiance as well as service. The latter I found too overtly business oriented. But the food I had from the cheap menu was really, really top notch. Because I'm not reasonable, I supplemented it with a 90€ spaghetti dish that was totally worth it. I'm starting to figure out how to make the best of this place. I'll definitely be back. More indepth report and pictures at: http://www.julotlespinceaux.com/2009/01/le...dle-castle.html

Sorry I gave no background information. BE is Boulangépicier, the bakery that is owned by Alain Ducasse personally. When it opened it was a joint with Kayser but I suspect that the recent closing has to do with their parting. It's on the bd de Courcelles in the 8th (borderline 17th), close to the Place des Ternes. Tupac, I too am eating crema gianduja as we speak. Viennes pastry are not their strong suit. As I wrote, try their visitandine, sacristain, passion fruit tart, sardine sandwich, walnut bread, cheese bread, cereal bread, tourte, coquillettes jambon/truffe for a taste of what they do really well.

I think you're in trouble. I can't think of a single restaurant who won't have some sort of Valentine special. It's a cursed day. For once I'd agree with François Simon and recommend room service. Even McDonalds will be full of valentinistas. Or maybe you could come home? I guarantee there will be nothing heart shaped, there will be excessive food and no romance. Maybe some DVDs of Boston Legal or something.

BE reopened. I don't know what exactly happened and the shop hasn't changed much. The food offered is the same -- great tourte and other breads, visitandines and sacristains are still there as well as the sophisticated excellent sandwiches and salad. The only major change is, they don't "do restaurant" anymore. They still have tables, and now you can have the truffle pasta all day. But they're not made on order anymore, only reheated. And the portions are way smaller than the big bowl they used to bring you. Happy to report that the passion fruit tart is as a good as ever -- maybe the crust is somewhat thicker, but it is very good anway.

Kitune, rue Saint Ferdinand Okame (to go), rue du faubourg Saint Honoré Benkay of course Comme des Poissons, rue de la Tour

I don't like l'Astrance and yet I don't agree with that. If you are sensitive to what makes l'Astrance great, then few restaurants can compete in terms of making the best of the day's best ingredients. Also, few restaurants can compete on the quality of the wine pairing. Like with all important restaurants, the question is not whether it is good or the best, the question is to characterise acuratley their singularity and to ask whether their project is one you would like to take part in. That's what bloggers are here for. Read reviews and make up your mind.

Of course they do. That's a proven successful recipe.

That's how I make most of my meals everywhere. But I'm the kind of guy who is comfortable not planing.

Turning up won't work. As they say, maybe a hotel concierge can help you though I never heard about it happening for l'Astrance. Apparently, having a black AmEx concierge service raises your chances. On the whole, your best shot is to call the same day at 10 and indeed be motivated and kind in order to be sure that you get the cancelled table if there is one that day. Be aware that they only pick up the phone between 10 and 12 (at most) and between 6 and 8, don't take messages, emails or fax. To me that is enough to not even want to go, but that's me...

Lunch bi at La Table de JR(**), 55eur. Lunch bi at LE Paris, Hotel Lutetia (*), 60eur. Lunch at Lasserre (**), 75eur. While we're at it, I don't believe that the question has a better response than the usual suspects: la Régalade, l'Ami Jean, Christophe, plus le Sévero and l'AOC for meat lovers. There are some I don't know of course but the others I know just can't compete.

Uh, truffle? I mean maybe there are special events otherwise, but in Jan-Feb, that is my only center of interest. Maybe my newborn baby, too.

Really, there are so many... indeed German chefs like Witzigmann and Winkler who were the first German three stars. Benoit Guichard who took over Jamin when Robuchon left. Off the top of my head I can't remember the names for sure but many starred French chefs were trained at Bocuse. The chef from l'Acajou, too. Haeberlin.

Topinambour is Jerusalem artichoke.

Went to Pinxo for a quick lunch yesterday. As John wrote (or did he?), a smart and well executed concept in terms of having light vaguely creative snack, the right amount of wine and efficient service. For a guy like me who goes to restaurant to eat, it's mostly a rip-off, but indeed there is something choreographic about the place. Also, it was my first adventure with my new lens and the lighting is good, so I was happy anyway. But I sure won't be back on my own accord. There are restaurants where you want to go, restaurants where you'll accept to go, and restaurants where you won't go. That's the middle category in my book. But I'm with John in the sense that Spoon definitely is group 3. More detailed review and pictures at: http://www.julotlespinceaux.com/2008/12/la...dutournier.html

At Jamin, Pudlowski and Peyrot having lunch together and we joined their table in the end.

Should have replied earlier, but there is great volailler, Picciotto in the marché Saint Quentin who also has some nice game. Don't go to the other volailer, whom I would not recommend. Pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.fr/ZeJulot/MarchSaintQuentin#

It is my understanding that, in spite of packaging and contrary assumptions, the "Senderens-imagined" menu is not even available yet. In any case, I regret that Senderens seems to be focusing on his 401k right now rather than excellent food. It is a very sorry state of affairs and if the Senderens of the 90s showed the same lack of seriousness then I understand the nasty critics of the time.