paulraphael
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Posts posted by paulraphael
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Making ice cream's easy. The hard part is getting it to do what you want it to do.
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3 hours ago, ccp900 said:
That's an interesting old study. I actually had a copy in my pile of digital papers. It's one of the more thorough published papers on this topic—along with some of the earlier papers that it tries to refute.
It's important to consider specificity in science. This paper looked for specific effects under four different combinations of time and temperature. The earlier papers that came to different conclusions were looking at somewhat different effects, and were looking at different combinations of time and temperature. It's not surprising that they came to different conclusions. I pasteurize at 75°C for 30 to 45 minutes; this is outside the range looked at by these researchers.
Commercial ice cream manufacturers have become quite sophisticated at manipulating time and temperature. Jenni Britton Bauer uses protein denaturization to get custard-like textures without eggs. Haagen Dazs uses it to make retail ice cream without stabilizers. There are many possibilities.
The sad part is that most of the ice cream-specific research has been done by manufacturers and is proprietary. Haagen Dazs publish in science journals; they keep secrets. Britton-Bauer said she figured it out with the help of some hints from university researchers—probably ones who had worked on commercial projects.
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I'm working for a company that helps people with renovations. A thing to keep in mind with flippers is that they're mostly motivated by profit, and they also tend to have a lot of experience. So they'll feel comfortable acting as their own general contractor—which means hiring tradespeople, doing some work themselves, ordering and scheduling materials, dealing with all the permits and inspections, scheduling and managing the crew, and drawing up a reasonable budget. This saves them money but it's real work! And if you've never done it before on a major project you can easily get in over your head.
As far as the return-on-investment of renovations, it varies quite a bit with location and the type of work. Kitchens and floors sometimes make financial sense. Exterior stuff like decks and garage doors can be profitable. Bedrooms and closets and bathrooms often have lousy returns.
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5 minutes ago, ccp900 said:
I came upon an interesting article or study and the conclusion was cooking at low temp long time and high temp short time had minimal effects on body and texture. The more substantial factor on body and texture was the method of freezing..
How much effect is going to depend on the quantity of milk solids, and also their starting condition. If you're making a typical home recipe that has no added milk solids, and your milk is ultra-pasteurized, there won't be many proteins and they'll have already been cooked past what you'd want. So monkeying with your lower-temp cooking times will be a bit futile.
Re: soap in ice cream ... don't forget the advantages of easy cleanup.
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It's the fructose in the invert. Glucose binds a little water, fructose binds a lot. I suspect fructose isn't used more in kitchens because it's expensive.
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3 minutes ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:
If I were attempting a mint extraction I'd use an iSi, ethanol, and nitrous oxide. Then concentrate with a rotovap. I do not yet have a rotovap.
The only word I'm reading is "yet."
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2 hours ago, rascali said:
For those who really like to play hard, make up an ice bath with dry ice and alcohol and chill some Everclear 190, to which you would add your mint leaves. Stir for a minute or two, then strain and evaporate the leachate until an appropriate strength. This method will pull more oil and leave a stronger mint flavor, which you can vary with the length of wash. This will be a clear solution, if green is your goal do room temp, but you'll lose complexity.
Of course, wear gloves and eye protection.
Dave Arnold has cracked the nut of mint flavor in cocktails, also with cryogenics—in his version, liquid nitrogen and a vita-prep. I haven't found a way to translate this into ice cream, even if I had LN2.
I'm curious about your thinking with the cryo-alchohol. Have you done this?
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Soap is a really good emulsifier. It would would be a popular ice cream ingredient, if it didn't taste like soap.
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So interesting. I've had many annoying bread handling problems, but not this one.
My bread's a bit higher hydration than yours. I do autolyse by mixing halft the flour flour and the water with a spatula. Once it's hydrated, I can add the rest of the flour and the starter, and the dough hook mostly brings it together. I'll have to stop and scrape down the sides once or twice in the first minute or so.
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Re: lavender—I haven't tried it yet. We've got a lavender plant, so I've been meaning to. I think it will be a tricky one to get right, because of the soap issue. You can't use too much. Cardamom is similar, but I've got a pretty high threshold for cardamom flavor, and that's really easy to get into ice cream. Lavender might be kind of delicate, in addition to being easy to overdo.
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I like commercial mint ice cream, too, but I think of it as a particular mint flavor—mouth wash or candy canes. I like candy canes! But they don't taste like mint from the garden. And candy cane flavor is really easy to get—just throw in some mint extract or mint oil.
My project over the last few years has been capturing all the dimensions of a flavor ingredient. I want to get all those bright and fresh garden mint flavors, just like I want to get all the nuances of single-origin coffees and chocolates. We're used to ice cream that has a generic coffee ice cream flavor, or a generic chocolate ice cream flavor, or a generic mint extract flavor.
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57 minutes ago, weinoo said:
I certainly wasn't questioning your ability to make herb ice cream.
Just saying that herb ice cream, in and of itself, is really not the reason to eat ice cream. At least not my reason. Gimme vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, peach, mint CHOCOLATE CHIP, rum raisin, etc.
I'll be using the thyme and rosemary to roast my chicken!
Herb flavors are special to me because of a single formative experience. I'd just finished working for a couple of years managing a homemade ice cream shop in Colorado ... a typical local shop that buys a base from a dairy and adds flavors. We thought it was great ice cream. Oreo and chocolate chip cookie dough and "rocky mountain road" ... that kind of thing. I then took a trip to Paris and got invited to dinner at Taillevent. This was way back when it was considered one of the great restaurants. One of the desserts (by pastry chef Gilles Bajolle ... I've been cyberstalking him since) was a single quenelle of thyme ice cream. It blew my head off. It made me realize I'd never even tasted good ice cream, much less made it. Since then, herbs have been a kind of obsession.
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2 hours ago, weinoo said:
Well maybe, since most herb ice cream sucks, end the quest?
I've had great luck with thyme, and also done pretty well with basil (although I haven't tried the latter in years. The basil I've been growing tastes terrible).
My current thinking is that different methods work well for herbs with small sturdy leaves (thyme varieties, lavender, rosemary) compared with bigger more delicate leaves (basil, sage, parsley, sorrel). Herbs like mint and basil that oxidize quickly may pose special problems, but I've found mint to be the hardest.
I wish I had a bunch of interns to test multiple versions with controlled variables. I
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On 9/9/2020 at 2:42 PM, Ian Tuck said:
Camper did yeoman's work on contemporary Campari coloring a few years ago. Perhaps it'd be worth reaching out to him at his website or on twitter @alcademics to see if he might know?
Campari is Made Differently Around the World: Cochineal, Coloring, ABV, & Eggs
Really interesting article. I'd love to know the reason for these differences. It's not like coca cola, or nutella, where they actually manufacture the product in the continents where they sell them. Campari all comes from the same factory in Italy (I assume the same factory). So why would they go through the trouble of so many different formulations?
I can imagine countries having different arcane labelling rules ... which could account for the same product being marked 24% abv here and 25% there. And I can imagine certain colorants being banned some places and not others. But why some countries would get beetles and others synthetic coloring, I don't know. And why one country (Sweden?) would get 21% ABV. Last I checked the Scandinavians could hold their liquor as well as anyone. Maybe to sneak in under some liquor tax threshold?
I also wonder if they change the sweetness levels for different countries. Many products seem to get extra sugar for the US. This doesn't always get reflected on the labels, but is apparent.
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I don't know what (why) they used to coat that thing. I suppose the good news is that when the coating loses its effectiveness you can just sand it off and then have a perfectly good skillet.
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18 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:
@paulraphael I wonder if the difference is in the diameter of our bowls? My bowls are 9 1/2 inches.
Mine's 9-1/2" too. Probably a difference in the consistency of doughs. They all behave differently.
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15 hours ago, teonzo said:
Glad you liked it!
For a 1 kg batch I use 30 g of mint.
I would suggest you to try the sorbet version.
Teo
That makes sense. Do you use just the leaves or are there any small stems still attached? I think both my garden containers together would be cleaned out if I harvested 30g of leaves. They're very light!
I've been on a drawn out quest to find the best extraction method for different kinds of herbs. It's challenging because there's practically no science on this. Not even rigorous blind tastings and experiments by chefs. Some herbs are pretty durable and taste good no matter what you do, but the delicate ones like mint and basil are mostly surrounded by a lot of dubious lore.
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14 minutes ago, weinoo said:
Who you calling cheap?
Not you, Mitch! Maybe easy, but never cheap
I think of Ghiradelli as cheap because they have it at the supermarket around the corner. It's not like the Michel Cluizel stuff I have special order, and then stash locked up underneath my most boring financial documents, to keep it safe from certain other household members.
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I made a batch of mint ice cream, with a variation on Teonozo's infusion method. It got great reviews from my house-bound tasting panel, but still needs some work to get to where I'd like it to be.
I made this with a variation on my standard base that's lower-fat: 9% milk fat, 10% total fat with 2 yolks/KG. 37% solids.
For a 1kg batch I used 12g fresh mint leaves (mystery mint from the garden). I'd planned to use more but this seamed like a big enough pile of leaves. I brought the milk to a simmer, took it off the heat, added the mint and 0.5g citric acid (as an anti-oxidant). Blitzed with a stick blender. Infused 1 minute and strained. At this stage the milk had a hint of green tint and a nice fresh mint aroma.
I then cooked the mix sous-vide, and homogenized in a vitamix. Before the blender I added 0.1g peppermint oil.
The result has great texture and tastes great, but for my tastes still has too little fresh mint flavor and a bit too much mint oil flavor.
Next batch I'll try 18g mint leaves (which is most of our summer crop!) and drop the mint oil to 0.5g. It's ridiculous how potent that stuff is.
Possibly my biggest problem right now is that our mint isn't great. I waited until we had a good sized crop, but by that time it was getting rangy and starting to flower. So it's more mutton than lamb ... bright mint flavors are giving way to grassy ones.
FWIW, I also threw an inclusion into half the batch, which I almost never do. But the little kid in me really likes chocolate chips in mint. To avoid cocoa butter boulders, I took some of the cheap chocolate we had around (Ghiradelli bittersweet chips) and melted it 9:1 with refined coconut oil. Added 0.5% salt. Spread thin on a sil-pat, freezed a few minutes, then broken into pieces. (Use a spatula or something to break, because this stuff melts quickly in your hands).
I'd prefer a slightly less sweet chocolate, but this turned out really well. I got the proportions from Dana Cree.
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17 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:
Actually the problem with the KitchenAid is it won't mix my approximately 1 kg amount of dough. I think it would do better with larger batches.
Really? Does yours have the spiral dough hook?
I can make as little as 450g with the spiral hook in the 6qt bowl. That's what I do when making pasta dough ... it can't properly mix less than that, but more risks breaking the machine.
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17 hours ago, Dave the Cook said:
. . . you have an excuse to go knife shopping.
Sure, and some people don't even need an excuse to go knife shopping. But if you like your knife and want to keep it cutting well for its useful life, you'll have to thin it from time to time.
If you're old school you'll get to the point where your chef's knife becomes a slicing knife. But you have to be pretty hardcore for that. I've had my current gyuto 11 years and it's only lost about 1-1/2mm. I've only thinned it once, and it was part of reprofiling the thing.
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On 9/5/2020 at 1:53 PM, JoNorvelleWalker said:
If anyone is considering a new mixer I recommend Ankarsrum. I've been quite pleased with mine* over the past year. I also have two Kitchenaids. I use mixers mainly for making bread. For me it is no contest. But for cookies or a cake I'd go with Kitchenaid.
*except for the color.
People who make lots of bread love those. I find the bigger KA mixers do great with up to a couple KG of high-hydration bread dough. But if your priority is bigger batches, or really tough doughs like pasta or pretzels, spiral mixers like the Ankarsrum are monsters.
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I'd echo the idea of fixing the KA. There's very little that can go wrong with one that can't be fixed economically. The bowl-lift models are much, much easier to take apart and get back together, but all of them are serviceable, and every imaginable part is widely available for a reasonable price. Youtube videos and maintenance sheet PDFs are all over the web.
Replacing the grease is the first order of busines. If there are no obviously worn parts it may be all you need to do. KA's grease is TERRIBLE quality. They use an ancient formula called Shell Darina #2 that separates and drips oil into your food, has poor resistance to oxidation and high temperatures, and gets too thick when it's cold and too thin when it's hot. To make up for these faults they pack cubic meters of it into each mixer, and pretend that quantity will magically make up for quality and make the thing run without maintenance forever. It's not a great plan. At least not for people who actually use the things.
I really like Super Lube, which I found out is popular with people who rebuild these mixers. Make sure you get the #2 weight, to match the original grease. It's fully synthetic, it never separates, it's resistant to extreme heat and to oxidation, and it lubes well over a wider temperature range than you'll ever need unless you're crazy.
You'll also want a good non-toxic degreaser, like an automotive product made with citrous oil. The biggest part of the project will be cleaning out the old gunk. If you have a bowl-lift model, pop off the lid to see if you have one of the older plastic gear housings. If you do, this is an opportunity to replace with the newer zinc model. It's a big upgrade. Whether you replace the housing or not, you'll need to replace the gasket. For some repairs on the bowl-lift model, you'll need a snap ring plier in the right size.
If you have a filp-top model, I don't have any helpful experience, but the internet is full of instruction.
I have a whole new relationship with my mixer now that I've rebuilt it a couple of times. We trust each other with our deepest secrets.
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You remove a bunch of metal when you rebevel a knife for sure. Doesn't matter whether you use a machine or edge pro or water stones.
And after you've done enough sharpening to significantly shorten the height of the blade, it's important to thin the blade overall. This also removes a bunch of metal.
I don't know if you can thin a knife on an edge pro or not. You certainly can't use any of the machines like the chef's choice.
Edited to add: a ruler is more useful than a milligram scale to know in practical terms how much metal you've removed. You want to think about thinning when your blade has a couple of mm height.
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Quick breads made with high protein-content flour
in Pastry & Baking
Posted
I've used oat flour in many things. It has a very high protein content. I'm not sure of all the ways it might alter texture. It will almost certainly require more liquid, and might help things stay moist longer.