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Everything posted by lebowits
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I've been asked by a friend to help create a chocolate centerpiece/showpiece/sculpture for his parents 50th wedding anniversary. The good news is this is nearly a year away so I have time to learn something about the process. Does anyone have any advice, references, books or other tips & techniques to help me learn how to make a modest, but attractive piece?
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Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
lebowits replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
I hadn't posted the whole formula (which isn't originally mine) as I wasn't overly concerned about the ganache itself. However, given your comment that it seems unbalanced, here it is for completeness: 250 grams heavy cream 90 grams invert sugar 3 vanilla beans 390 grams white chocolate 25 grams butter 6 grams cognac Method: 1. Combine the cream, invert sugar,and scraped vanilla bean and bring to a boil. Let steep for 20 minutes 2. Take out vanilla pods and bring the cream back to a boil 3. Pour cream over the chocolate and stir until smooth 4. Add butter and stir until the butter melts out and is combined 5. Add the cognac once the mixture has cooled below 100F and stir to combine I really like the flavor and you can vary it somewhat by your choice of cognac (or in today's case frambois). I've used vanilla paste in other products but personally prefer the taste of the bean. -
Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
lebowits replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
Thanks. With this batch I was trying to work fast as I won't be able to do much the next couple of days and was juggling the temper of both white and dark chocolate. I've just unmolded the pieces and we'll how many of them leak. I'll definitely try letting them sit overnight when I do them next. I figure I'll be doing these same pieces again this weekend. -
Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
lebowits replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
I've just begun seriously tackling molded chocolates as most of my work to date has been dipped. Today, I wanted to try a formula given to me for an intense vanilla/white chocolate ganache. The ganache is very thin with 250 grams cream and 390 grams white chocolate, and 25 grams butter. After molding the "shells", I piped the ganache into them and them began sealing the plaques. The trouble was that the chocolate appears "heavier" than the ganache and forces it over the top of the impression making it difficult to seal. Are there any techniques for sealing soft/liquid products into the shells? Perhaps placing a thin layer of cocoa butter on top before sealing? -
What do you think of the flavour of the new PDF recipes vs the old ones? ← Kerry - I can't comment on the flavor of the old vs. new formula as I don't have a copy of the old. If someone can post the formula for the mango, I'll do a batch for comparison.
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I cut my last PDF slab today after 48 hours. It still has a "soft" texture but holds up much better than the last batch which came apart in my fingers. So while I believe this has a "good' amount of pectin, it didn't cook long enough to reach the temp required. I'll make another batch or 2 (maybe 3) once I get the puree I ordered.
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Kim - When I looked at the recipe you pointed to, it instantly reminded me of pastry cream. I did a quick look, and pastry cream uses more eggs and corn starch and less sugar and more egg yolks as a percent of the total weight. It got me thinking though that if you wanted a firmer texture, you might start with a standard pastry cream formula and substitute brown sugar in place of white sugar. When refrigerated, pastry cream has a firmer texture that what you seem to describe and illustrate in your picture. Alternatively, you could simply add another egg yolk and another tsp or 2 of corn starch to the current recipe. It sounds delicious.
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I suspect that for your purpose, parchment will work just as well. Casual bakers generally don't have parchment in their kitchens but they will often have aluminum foil. With that, it will likely be easier to butter foil given it's stiffness. Parchment might tear more easily if you're trying to butter it in the pan. If you plan to use parchment, cut what you need and lay it out on the counter to apply the butter.
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Thanks for the feedback. I've ordered more mango puree so I can conduct a few more experiments. I'll definitely try the slower setting pectin in the next round.
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After my last post, I went to cut my first experimental slab which had been made using the specified "new" Boiron formula. After curing for 48 hours, it was still extremely soft. I applied fresh sugar to coat both sides of the slab and placed it onto my guitar. The first cut went reasonably well but I could tell the pieces were very soft and would be difficult to move. I slid the plate under the cut pieces so I could rotate them together 90 degrees to make the other cut. The pieces started to fall out of shape very quickly but I managed to get them back onto the guitar, but any semblance of a square was pretty much gone. After making the 2nd cut I tried removing some of the individual pieces to toss them in sugar. They pretty much started coming apart in my hands, with gooey, sticky bits coming off rather easily and making quite a mess. I wound up tossing the whole batch and spending the next 20 minutes cleaning. On the the next one.
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With my first stab at PDF on the cut and the 2nd on the shelf "curing", I decided it was time for an experiment. I was a bit unhappy with the "soft" texture of the 2nd slab, even after nearly 48 hours. So based upon some of the previous posts in this thread I took a more critical look at the new formulas (with apple juice) posted by Boiron. Using the mango puree as my test case, the base formula consists of: grams % total Puree 1000 29.85% Sugar 150 4.42% Pectin 30 0.88% Apple Juice 500 14.75% Sugar 1350 39.82% Glucose 290 8.55% Acid 30 0.88% The method described is thus: 1. Combine puree and apple juice in a pot and bring to a boil whisking continuously to prevent scorching 2. Combine first sugar and pectin to prevent clumping in the pot and add to the boiling pot 3. Add glucose to boiling pot 4. Add remaining sugar in stages 5. Cook mixture to 107C 6. Add tartaric acid if needed, remove pot from heat, and pour into prepared frame What was noticed in a previous post is that the pectin is recommended to be between 1% - 1.5% of the total product weight. This formula has just 0.88% of the product weight in pectin which could very well be why my PDF came out soft. The other possible explanation for the soft texture is that I need to cook it to a higher temperature. Wanting to test the theory, I decided to adjust the formula to bring the pectin weight higher. The new weights I used are: grams % total Puree 1000 29.50% Sugar 250 7.37% Pectin 50 1.47% Apple Juice 500 14.75% Sugar 1250 36.87% Glucose 290 8.55% Acid 50 1.47% The method requires that the pectin be combined with 5 times it's own weight of sugar so that it inhibits clumping when it is added to the pot. In order to keep the total sugar weight stable, I moved the additional sugar from the 2nd listing up into the first. All of the pectin used is apple (E440) pectin. Results So, for this first experiment, I made a 1/2 sized batch using the ratios above using the exact same method. As I cooked the mixture prior to adding the acid, it became noticeably thicker, which seemed to me to be the pectin beginning to set. When this happened, I also noticed that the measured temperature of the pot seemed to stabilize at about 103C. I can only guess that this is not entirely true as I continued to cook over the same heat as before. My theory is that the thickened mixture didn't transmit the heat well and thus I could not accurately measure the temp. After realizing the that the mixture had thickened considerably and that I was not getting valid temperature readings, I added the acid (more for completeness than anything else) and poured the mixture into my frame. The viscosity of the mixture prevented it from pouring evenly so I did my best to spread it out using my whisk and then a silicone spatula. I sprinkled sugar on top of the cooling mass and am waiting for it to come to room temp. I can already tell that it has a different consistency, but again for completeness will give it the full 48 hour curing time so I can have a valid comparison. I'm thinking that the next variables to test could be one of: 1. Reduce the pectin level to between 1% - 1.25% and see if that allows me to complete the cooking process 2. Substitute "yellow" pectin which takes longer to set and thus might give me more time. 3. Bite the bullet and get a refractometer no matter what else I do. Now I just need to get more mango puree so I can finish these experiments. Anyone have comments or suggestions?
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Thanks for your responses. I have another container of mango puree thawing for my second attempt. Of course, it never occurred to me before reading one of Kerry's posts that I could make a half batch! That will be my 2nd modification.
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I've just started making PDF and am using the new Boiron forumlas (with apple juice) for reference. One question I've not seen discussed yet is this: The Boiron formulas call for "caster sugar" which as I understand it is something akin to what we here in the US call "confectioners sugar"; both being very finely ground sugars but with the latter containing a bit of corn starch as an anti-clumping agent. Does the type of sugar really matter here? Obviously, a more finely ground sugar would melt into solution faster during cooking, but with the temp going to 107C I can't see that it is really important. Any thoughts?
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I actually spoke with the Corporate Pastry Chef at AUI this morning and asked him about the shelf stable puree. He indicated that they would probably work just fine for what I wanted. Unfortunately we didn't have long to talk as he was getting ready to leave on a trip to teach a class. Another source told me that they would likely have slightly different flavor profiles and that I might expect to need to experiment a bit and adjust recipes for variations in flavor and sugar content.
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Surprisingly little sugar in the dough. It reminds me a slightly sweetened pate brisee with the yolk for texture. But with all the ingredients at room temp, it assembles more like a sucree.
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Will Albert Uster provide you with samples so you can test the purees? ← don't know if they'll provide a sample to a micro customer like me. I'll hopefully get a chance to talk to their corporate chef in the next week or 2.
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Just a quick update for all interest... I've contacted the Director at my culinary Alma Mater and asked if we could work out something for the use of a classroom or two. I've also contacted the Corporate Pastry Chef at Albert Uster Imports which is right next door and asked if he/they would be willing to sponsor us for a few hours in their demo kitchen like Tomric did this year. Finally, I've spoken with Brian at Tomric to ask if they would like to participate again and the answer was a qualified "yes". The qualification being that I contact him again once we have some ideas on schedule so he can make the best use of the trip. I'll continue to post updates from time to time as I have news to report.
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Has anyone ever used Caramanfruit shelf-stable purees? Do they perform the same as frozen? Any comments appreciated.
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I've had my Rev 2 for about 3 years and use it often. Mine has been very reliable and I've purchased a 2nd bowl/baffle so that I can pull out one bowl after tempering for dipping pieces and start to melt another chocolate. I bought the Rev 2 at the time because I didn't expect to need more capacity. Now I'm using it several times a week and run for hours on weekends when I do most of my production.
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I find it best to freeze the uncooked dough on a tray and then place them in freezer bags after they are "solid". This lets you pull out just what you need when you need it. You can also take the cookies straight from the freezer to the oven by adjusting the cooking time. I've found it only takes an additional 2 -3 minutes per batch this way and saves a great deal of time. I believe that the paper cups will become soggy as water condenses if you're thawing the cookies before baking.
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Yes and yes. Battery operated fan might work well, assuming the cold from the 'fridge doesn't affect the battery. ← Lithium batteries are relatively unaffected by "cold" temperatures. In fact they are recommended in some places for use in devices which are outdoors during winter months.
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Sorry folks, I know this is a bit off topic but I have just one more question. Lior - Do you temper in the X3210's and then "hold the chocolate in the melters, or do you "temper" in the melters as well? I'm thinking about investing in an X3210 because I'm outgrowing my little Rev 2. Many thanks.
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Lior - What are you using today? How about you John? Several folks have discussed "tempering" in Mol d'Art melters over the years....
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I found a pretty good description of the starch molding process here. Thought you might like another reference.
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DavidJ assumes that you want a full 3D bottle. The most common example of liquor cordials I have seen is the "model" in Greweling's book which gives you a small cordial which is essentially a 1/2 bottle with the other side "flat". The impressions in the starch box are only about 1/2 inch deep. The immediate problem with the starch box is making the exemplar to use in imprinting the starch.