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Everything posted by sunbeam

  1. and before we start to think it appropriate of ourselves to decry her efforts, we should also remember if her place was as shambolic as some would vicariously have us believe she'd never have 2*'s or the deal with the Connaught. ← Well I have eaten there and it was pretty poor. I would certainly question how it got two stars - I have had many better meals at places with lower ratings. She is very much the darling of the French press and I think this and her image make Michelin reluctant to demote. It is often said that Michelin are quick to award but very slow to remove stars especially in Paris. However, I am intrigued that Durack gave her a high score as he is a reliable critique - maybe things have improved. It will be intersting to see how it turns out. Maybe the more intersting French import this year will be Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex from Auberge de I’lle in Lyon who is opening in South Kensington early in the summer. Anyone have any further news? ← Is Durack reliable though? He's certainly stolid but that's not the same thing. S
  2. The pernicious influence of that Spanish place. Even a toasted cheese sandwich is not safe from being buggered about with. S
  3. The terrible addition of baked beans is I think known as the Torremelinos effect. The FEBs eaten by brits holidaying in spain are a mutation. I hear some people there consider a burger a welcome addition too S
  4. I like a tinned tomato. I can hear the howls of protest but for me they function like Proust's Madeleine and take me back to the UK boarding-house holiday breakfasts of my childhood. AA Gill's book 'Breakfast at the Wolsely' has some good advice on classic combinations as well as cooking tips S
  5. Foliage and No12 both very good for the money. No12 can be a bit empty at lunch time tho S
  6. You're right, far too few of 'em about. The chap at the Wolseley does a mean bit of Viennoiserie although I am normally too stuffed with 'full English' to do his work justice. Every time I go I have a doomed plan to just eat some healthy cereal and then a bit of pastry. And every time I instead find myself ordering the artery buster special and later being helped into a cab so I can get to the office to sleep it off. Anyway, The Wolseley. S
  7. I suppose Bourdain's writing on Japanese hi level dining would be a start. He actually writes rather well if you can put up with the H.S.T wannabe bits. Made me hungry at any rate, which must be the test of any decent food writing. S
  8. thanks but i dont think im any the wiser! i am going to be going anyway, so I suppose its suck it and see S
  9. Weren't they good - well, at least some of them. So well written I thought... ← They were very samey, Judith Chalmer's boy did his professional best to make them amusing with his own additions so full marks to him for that. I liked Ferran's speech because it seemed shorter than last year's unless, and it's entirely possible. I dozed off halfway through and only jerked awake when everyone started clapping. S
  10. Im being invited to go to D for dinner. What's the current opinion now that the critics have stabbed and moved on, is it any good now? S
  11. Of course, merely restaurants that's all, the majority of which most of us will never visit in a month of Sunday supplements. I think this has strayed from my original assertion that this has all become a bit predictable and thus dull. By all means carry on having the competition but can't something be done to make it a bit more interesting? It's sponsored by bottled water (aren't we supposed to condemn bottled water for being needlessy air freighted around the globe btw?) and I prefer sparkling to flat. (I think in Locatelli's case, like Bourdain, he's realised he's a bit too old to carry that 'wild and crazy guy' hairstyle off successfully any longer. He's gone for the rather more modern, but still dated 'life commando' look which I suppose must be easier to live with in a hot kitchen) S
  12. To accuse other people of 'ludicrous self-importance' for commenting on a list called the 50 best restaurants in the world is an impressive degree of hypocrisy. And then just to cap it you seem to be simultaneously arguing that the purpose is to provoke debate and then complaining about said debate. Get a grip. ← Agreed. Taking over ownership of Locatelli's wig seems to have gone to his head in more ways than one. S
  13. Surely they retire having taken the trophy home after winning three years in a row? ← Do they? I'm not sure if that's correct. Anyway if bulli retires, duck gets first place. So plus ca change S
  14. So last night we saw El Bulli win the world's best and Duck come second. Great restaurants of course, but this is the third year running and it's getting, well it's getting a bit boring actually. I wonder if there isn't some way of shaking the judging arrangements up? Perhaps taking El Bulli and Duck out of the running now and putting them on an eternal golden pedestal apart? It would open up the field for the others a bit. It's rather like seeing Citizen Kane win the oscar year after year. And Ferran's acceptance speeches don't get any better or shorter. He says he doesn't expect to win, but brings an entire charabanc of friends and colleagues with him each time. Next year maybe duck will win and bulli come second? Not exactly cliff-hanger stuff is it? I know this isn't supposed to be entertainment, but some surprises wouldn't go amiss. S
  15. all over the trade press this info, but no one above the line seems to know or care. Could be interesting S
  16. Did I not see yesterday, reading someone's paper over their shoulder on the tube, that GR is putting a 29 yr old lady in charge at RHR and that said lady had a pop at Hartnett saying 'she's 1 star, I'm 3 star'? If she did, you can see why GR likes her. He likes women with balls. Perhaps he should visit Thailand? S
  17. I dont have time to read online reviews! There are far too many! Only joking, but I refuse to encourage Metro in their littering of our stations and streets. S
  18. Your review cant have been all that positive then, Im guessing? S
  19. I had a spot of lunch here, we were the only two in and yet it was really and surprisingly rather good. A large raviolo of undyed smoked haddock in leek and cream sauce (£2.95) and a fine moist breast of free range chicken, bone in (hurrah), with great golden crackly skin, some sweet and smooth batons of parsnip and a very good mash (£7.95). The location is odd, fringes of Clerkenwell and the untidier estates of south Islington, but I've eaten far far worse in the area for a great deal more. If anyone is passing do give it a go, I hate seeing an empty restaurant when Chef and staff (one nice middle aged Eastern European lady) are trying so hard and have skill. They could turn down the piped opera a bit though, I kept involuntarily rising out of my seat on the high notes. S
  20. Nigel Lawson, Terry Durack, Jonathan Meades all went on severe diets that left them looking like one of those Japanese dogs with the wrinkles. They were all getting obviously seriously overweight, so I don't blame them. I'm less concerned with what Rhodes has done to his body than what he's done to his voice. It now veers wildly from sounding Like Lord Haw Haw one minute back to his natural Estuary the next, sometimes in the space of a single sentence. Someone is being paid to style him I suspect. S
  21. Gallery also rather trendy and calculatedly odd. An old french tramp, complete with 70s suit and minging trainers, may well guide you to your table. Seats and tables are collated from skips. The staff may or not treat you with utter disdain, depending how you look and how you behave. Ive always had a good time there, but I have been with known regulars. Caveat emptor. S
  22. She may just have an accent. which is something we can't really criticise her for. Personally I find Nigel Slater's way of talking very irritating, but I like to think he isn't camping it up deliberately. S
  23. Not far from Bosa is a trattoria called Riccardo where I had the best lobster of my life. I can't remember the name of the town, but we found it in the SlowFood guide, Osterie d'Italia. Bosa is not terribly far from Alghero also. ← Thanks Maureen, that gets me started! S
  24. Blimey, they weren't when I was there a short while ago, just clean simple cooking with great ingredients! I ate two nights running and enjoyed it. especially the local red mullet and brill S
  25. I did like Greens in Whitby. Nice husband and wife team and plenty of local fish, including langoustines and line caught sea bass N
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