townsend

Yes, you don't have to share it with someone else...why wouldn't you get the Wolfe's Neck if it isn't dry aged?

David, The Wolfe's Neck was purchased through Dartagnan, and is sold only in a primal cut. I dry age the steak for 28-40 days, trim and portion in roughly 32 ounce cuts bone-in, usually to order, and served for two. It's on our special menu this week at Twenty21. I am grilling it on our wood-burning grill, and serving it with baby carrots roasted with butter and walnut oil, fingerlings, and a frisee salad with shallots and a late harvest riesling vinegar (also using walnut oil on the steak, a touch on the salad, and sauced with a natural jus). While the price for the whole piece is reasonable, after water loss during aging and trim, the price per pound rises significantly. Serving two, the retail cost is $41 per person. Vadouvan secured the steak from me directly. If you want to talk about getting some Wolfe's Neck, PM me...otherwise, if you would like to join us for dinner for some excellent outside dining I would set that up. Townsend Wentz Executive Chef Twenty21

No doubt! If you can get the opportunity for Martin to cook for you, then you are in for a treat, indeed!

I was in a while back and the pasta was described as candele, refering to the shape of a candle. Ifabio will probably be able to give some insight on the translation...

In response to the OP.

Call Assouline at 1-800-521-4491 and ask them if they carry feuilles de brick (the french name). If they don't, and you know someone who uses Julius Silvert professionally, they may be able to get you one pack (10 sheets).

It was formerly known as Raw Flank Steak until Benny changed the name to Vietnamese Carpaccio...I still insist on ordering it as raw flank... It was good to see Will, and watch his progress on the project. The food is solid, and I hope that Jose will let him continue to grow. There are a few opportunities that they could utilize to make it more 'basque', but the bones are there. T

Will spent some time eating and trekking his way around the region last summer to gain a better understanding of the cuisine; translating that directly to 20th St. Philadelphia is probably not as easy as it may seem...many of the ingredients are difficult to source consistently, and some of the treats he brought back are not marketable. As far as intentionally mis-representing the cuisine, I doubt that is the case. Sure, many of the systems and offerings mimic Amada, which makes sense. (If it ain't broke...) When I stopped by the other day everything I tried was very good, and as they grow I would expect to see some development of the menu to test the waters... And you should dislike the term global tapas...it doesn't mean anything.

And that 10% is usually the profit, or puts the biz in the red. There are no 4-star public companies because the market for fine-dining is smaller than the market for mid or low level chains. High end has a foot in style, art, and fashion...all of which are very volatile...the corporate structure does not lend itself to rapidly(and I mean once or twice a day) adjusting to the changes that occur in the high end restaurant business. Most chains rely on training, which is the first thing to go in poorly run restaurants. The other reason is skilled labor. You don't need top tier cooks in mid level chains, so they are not difficult to train (low investment) and pay is low to mid. Corporate investment will not choose high risk, low return over medium risk, medium return.

Spike, The factors involved include food cost but also have to include labor cost and waste. Wholesalers are in business to make money as well, remember. The COG (cost of goods) can approach 40-45% when purchasing some items, most noteably prime beef cuts. Even if the chef portions the meat, it does not necessarily mean a great savings. Fish has its issues. To save cost, fish is often portioned by the restaurant. You have to add labor (skilled, at that, or yeild declines and any savings turns into further cost), and two to three days later, waste. Pristine, unique, line-caught fish is another matter. Not only are you paying the fisherman for line-caught, but better handling, and immediate delivery to market. Then you are paying for immediate delivery to the restaurant. Fedex is in business to make money, and you can pay today and get more shelf life out of your purchase, or buy through standard distribution channels and suffer the ill-handling and shortened shelf life. The guest is not going to pay a fine-dining restaurant a premium for farm-raised salmon the mom-and-pop shop is selling at half the price because of the china pattern! No, they would expect the chef is sourcing the very best in the world, and paying to have it delivered TODAY! Produce is something everyone sees in the street stalls and the supermarket. Many of those same products, in the cardboard case the street vendor is selling them from, go to the finest restaurants. But someone has to deliver them. Daily. Without excuses. Before 8:00 AM. And if it's not quality it goes back and an acceptable unit gets delivered. Before 10:00 AM. Without excuses. Unfortunately for the restaurant owner, the produce wholesaler is also trying to make money. What about the small farmer? Wakes up 7 days a week, farms for 14 hours, then trys to find someone to deliver specialty products to market (or to individual restaurants), or does it him/herself. Quality is outstanding, just as you would expect at a fine-dining restaurant. But it costs money. (Most small farmers aren't known for their extravagant lifestyles, either) In the US, try buying French goods, or Spanish hams, or Italian olive oils and not feel the weakness of the dollar abroad. Prices are indeed scaled up, but it's not on an equal percentage basis. General rule of thumb for restaurants; 30% for food (if you can swing it...), 30% for labor, 10% rent, and add debt service, accounting and book keeping, advertising, and a myriad of miscellaneous taxes and expenses. As far as management, you must watch everything if you want to turn or maximize profit, just like other businesses. But the stakes are higher with fine-dining restaurants. If your review is bad, or you fall out of favor with the glitteratti, you are left holding the papar on the debt. Or with a huge lease. Yes, some don't have to pay rent in high profile locations, but instead trade on the cachet they deliver to another business. But if they can't stay in business, the chef/owner will certainly not be getting another sweetheart deal anytime soon. Liquor is the profit center of restaurants, a similar cost (if they have a high wine sales percentage) to food, but labor is low. The one advantage is that people may buy a four hundred bottle of wine, but there is a ceiling to the amount of money one can charge per person for food. The amount of time it takes to recoup an investment far outstrips the opening buzz, or flash-in-the-pan restaurants. For the person who owns the property, appreciation of the property may be the only 'profit' they ever see. Lastly, most in the restaurant business think of crazy and altruistic as givens when discussing why anyone would risk millions in an industry where the success rate is so low....

That was perhaps the worst restaurant review ever written. Here is the perspective I agree with.... http://www.eatdrinkonewoman.com/2007/03/beef_1.php ← The worst, no doubt. The bruni thread on the new york board is overrun with commentary.

V, It clearly states, "featuring our Mix Grill cuisine". What is your question? T

The cronses were such a good shot of taste it made me laugh....who uses cronses anyway??? I love the usual response to whole cronses, "What the ____ is that?" Pickling them was a great prep...I am going to try to get some this week.

Had dinner at Falai last weekend.. Amuse of sweet potato soup with pickled cronses, five spice creme fraiche was excellent. Octopus salad was good, with a puree of chickpeas. The three mushroom salad with soft poached egg was good, texture on the porcini was interesting in a good way (might have been coated with cornmeal). Risotto with sausage and broccoli rabe was not up to snuff, with the broccoli rabe being a puree with sugar added to hopefully attenuate the bitterness. The gnudi were great, simple, tasty... Entree of cod cooked in the style of brandade was not good. This dish needs to be moved to the first course section, and be given some attention. Duck entree was ok, but the skin was not rendered at all. Dessert of passion fruit souffle was phenomenal!!! Drop dead gorgeous!!! The various breads were very good, and the service and hospitality was extremely attentive! Overall, a good experience, but would opt for pasta instead of the entrees.

Gabe, Go to the website www.francvin.com and get the phone number. Francesca used to carry Tarbais in bulk. I haven't ordered them in a couple years, and she may not carry them anymore. If she won't sell in small quantities, offer to purchase some other items, especially the Moulin des Penitents olive oil, and she may be more ammenable to breaking it down for you. Tod

The reason that restaurants are not happy is this. Any seasoned reservation manager can pretty much nail the books for a given evening. All the factors; time of year, day of the week, weather, etc. are taken into account when booking/overbooking/maximizing space and time (which is necessary for the restaurant to stay open, and guests to have access). When those variables change, how the book is managed changes. Less or more risk is introduced, and the restaurant is left to assume that risk. Not the guest. Not the 'service'. The restaurant in effect has to hope they can 'sell' (both figuratively and literally) their product. In Philly there is no market for this service. Most reservations will go unused a greater percentage of the time. The majority of people won't even know this service exists, and it will end up making it even harder to plan a night out at Vetri. Coincidentally, I think that is the number one restaurant that this will hurt, based on the percentage of prime tables they will book (1 resy in an eight table room, you do the math). And please, no talking about 'regular' guests also cancelling. Over time, they do this at a predictable rate that can be accounted for. From a guests' POV, they are competing with you for something they don't want. They just know you do, and if they can beat you to the punch, you then have to decide whether or not you want to give up $50. Lunch money arbitrage, how schoolyard...

J, I second the echire vote...MJR, what is name of the butter you were using with the seaweed? T

From what I understand, different feeds (corn vs. soy) create different fat consistency. In turn, they are better for different uses; soy for firmer, searing foie and corn for softer, torchon-style foie. Color is different, too. I would try to confirm the feed content, just to add that to the mix.

I'd be totally shocked if the Wolfe's Neck hadn't been dry aged... ← 30 days dry, cryovaced with evo and thyme when the whole rack was broken down. Approx. 7 days in cryo. Tod

Perhaps if it isnt too late, ome of that fabulous "Beurre De Charents" from Lescure. The one with the crunchy FDS in it. I just got back to philly and I am off to score some quality grapeseed oil. see ya ← V, Should have mentioned the Lescure when you were by...albeit minus the FDS... T

Welcome to eGullet, Townsend. Matthewj just posted a couple days ago about those truffles he sold you here. How are you using them? ← Thanks. I am using them with roasted sea scallops, celeriac puree, maitake mushrooms, and a vegetable truffle nage (small dice carrots, celery, and onions, light butter emulsion with chicken broth, and chiffonade truffle). The mushrooms are also roasted which brings out a tremendous flavor. I put them with the Cote De Boeuf regularly, which I carry on my specials list as a permanent fixture, with rotating accoutrements. Lately I've been doing a mixture of winter fruits and vegetables; baby turnips, wild mushrooms, dates, red pearl onions, grapes (not really winter, but hey, neither were the cherries I found and added the other day), baby rutabega I came across and a local store, and anything else that would complement a fricassee or cooking 'en cocotte'. I just shave the truffle over the sliced beef and chiffonade any less than presentable slices into the sauce. It's currently restaurant week, so we have suspended the five course $85 truffle menu we were doing. It should come back the middle of next week.... Townsend

Hello cheereeo70, I am new to the forum, but have been a 'lurker' on many topics. I am the Executive Chef at Twenty21, and would be pleased to have your group join us for the 14th. We can provide a set menu for the evening; one that is appropriate for two business companions dining together. If they are looking for ala carte, I can create options from what we are preparing for the evening with some additions. I offer a 28 day dry aged Wolffe's Neck Farm Cote De Boeuf, and am getting some fantastic truffles in from France, as well. Our wine list is extensive, and have been awarded the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for six years running. Please call me directly at the restaurant, and I will make sure they are accommodated. I hope to hear from you soon, and wish your group well on their trip to Philadelphia. Townsend Wentz Executive Chef Twenty21