ameiden

It looks like Marco needed the money to open his new restaurant, a joint venture with Roman Abramovich, located within the Chelsea Football Club Complex at Stamford Bridge. I very much like the following statement from the new website - http://www.marcorestaurant.co.uk/ "The décor is reflective of an increasingly discerning football fan base reflecting stylish elegance amongst the chaos of roaring footy fans."

I know it is almost a commodity in Michelin-star restaurants to approach the table with a Champagne trolley carrying anything from a modest house bubbly to a Dom Perignon. At a tasting last week, I heard Champagne authority Tom Stevenson say that it was stupid to drink Prestige Cuvees or even Vintage Champagnes as an aperitif. But then Michael Broadbent said you shouldn't drink Sauternes with your pudding.

Latest news is that Joel Robuchon has overtaken both Ducasse and Ramsay to become the chef with the world's most stars, following the publication of the first Michelin guide to Tokyo. Robuchon won three stars for his flagship in the Japanese capital, two stars for L'Atelier and a single star for La Table. Ducasse's Benoit and Beige venues were awarded one star apiece, and Ramsay was snubbed for his restaurant at the Conrad Tokyo. The six extra stars catapult Robuchon to the top of the table of chefs. He has 17, compared with 15 for Ducasse, 11 for Ramsay and seven for Thomas Keller. (Ramsay holds another star for the Angela Hartnett restaurant in London, which has closed down.)

I have to say, this Angus steak and chips looks much better than the well-done "shoesole" beef I got served in Monte Carlo when I asked for a medium cooking (see above in this post). The first impressions of Ducasse's new place were kind of foreseeable to me. Unfortunately, his top restaurants do no longer produce consistent top quality. I believe they used to do this at some point but I am glad I am not the only one seeing standards slip. I wouldn't be against eating at a money-making machine like this if what you get was really outstanding. But like that, I am glad to be dining at one of my all time favourites in a couple of days time. It also specialises in classic French cuisine, is just round the corner from the Dorchester and is called "Le Gavroche" ...

It is also worth mentioning that Cologne has a new 2-star restaurant: "Le Moissonnier", a casual French bistro with experimental cuisine.

Michelin announced today that Claus-Peter Lumpp of the restaurant "Bareiss" in Baiersbronn, Juan Amador of restaurant "Amador" in Langen near Frankfurt and Klaus Erfort of "Gästehaus Klaus Erfort" in Saarbrücken will all receive their third Michelin star in the new 2008 guide. This means that Germany now is in second place with 9 three star restaurants after France (26 three stars) and in front of Spain/Portugal (6 three stars). As a reminder, the other German three star chefs are Heinz Winkler, Residenz Heinz Winkler, Aschau Harald Wohlfahrt, Schwarzwaldstube, Baiersbronn Dieter Müller, Restaurant Dieter Müller, Bergisch Gladbach Joachim Wissler, Vendôme, Bergisch Gladbach Helmut Thieltges, Waldhotel Sonnora, Dreis Christian Bau, Schloss Berg, Perl-Nennig

sounds like it is certainly designed to give that impression, true or not. i would strongly suspect that the ltd co that runs 'the' fat duck is a different entity too ← I also see a link to the Hinds Head on the Fat Duck website (under "Contact us"). In addition, the Hinds Head is listed in Heston's Book "In search of perfection" under the heading "Heston's restaurants".

After reading Matthews comments, we expected the worst when we went to the Hinds Head last weekend. But I tell you what, it wasn't too bad at all. Of course one should not be expecting anything grand or even similarities to what's happening a few yards over the road in the Fat Duck. But my Colchester Oysters were perfectly fresh and well prepared, my rump steak with bone marrow sauce was cooked as I wanted it (and came with the famous triple cooked chips and green beans), the treacle tart with milk ice cream was a greatly revised British classic. My wife had a red pepper and goats cheese tart with rocket salad to start (perfectly all right) and then a very good roast of lamb leg with mint sauce, red cabbage, croccoli, roast potatoes. The young service staff were friendly and attentive, maybe the only thing I would have wanted would have been a slightly wider and better wine selection, also by the glass. As a framed certificate on the way to the lavatories documents, this business is still owned by "Fat Duck Ltd", so I assume that Heston IS still involved here, perhaps not quite as much in the day to day running, but certainly in an overall sense.

The fundamental difference between the wine lists of Taillevent and Louis XV is that in Taillevent you find many modestly priced wines in the main list (the very old and very expensive are in a separate list that is only available upon request). At Louis XV the list is relatively small in comparison and does hardly contain anything under 100 Euros. Also, the names are quite predictable: Mouton, Lafite, Petrus etc. in a wide range of vintages but no "finds" from say the Provence or Languedoc.

It would be Le Gavroche for me. Although I like Petrus for its near-perfect food and service, I love Gavroche for its classic, sometimes nostalgic approach, huge wine list, world-class service and romantic feel. I have been there both at lunch and dinner times. The risk to run into business people eating on expenses is minimal in the evening. Lots of elegant people, couples going out for a real treat, distinguished gentlemen in Savile Row suits, sophisticated ladies in litte black dresses, families occupying large tables. But nobody negotiating a contract or talking about numbers, prices, taxes.

Amazed to see what discussion I have started here. To be honest, I was surprised that the waiter turned down my request as I put it across in a very friendly manner and thought this would be a reasonable thing to ask for that would not put the kitchen into too much trouble. I had a vanilla-obsessed girlfriend for many years and in every three star restaurant we went to we had to ask for a vanilla dessert at the beginning of the meal. The replies we got in various places ranged from "No way, this is too short notice, no mousse will set, no ice cream will freeze etc" to "OK, no problem, madame" to the most amazing vanilla souffle served with vanilla liqueur and vanille ice cream by the side. By the way, there was another little "incident" at Louis XV I forgot to mention. Initially I ordered the a la carte wood pigeon as a main course. My order was taken, everything seemed fine. Three minutes later the waiter stormed to my table and said he was sorry but they had no woodcock today. This was at the beginning of the service with only two other tables seated. In my opinion, this is something that should not happen in a place like this either. It was only then that I ordered the beef that turned out to be almost well-done.

After having been to Louis XV last week, I agree that this is a unique place. Mainly because of the "Versailles" decoration it cannot be replicated elsewhere, not even at the Dorchester. But I have to say that I was somehow disappointed by a number of things. Cepes are in season and they feature heavily on the current menu. I asked whether I could have a pasta dish with cepes instead of the rice dish that was on the menu. My request was rejected with the excuse that they had no pasta. Strange answer in a place like this. Then go and make some, I was tempted to say. What followed then was a true cepe orgy: Amuse bouche was a chicken soup with cepes and cepe ravioli (so they did have pasta!). Then I had the provence primeur vegetables with olive oil and truffles which also featured a cepe. After that I got the rice with cepes, and for the main course the grilled beef with an olive daube of vegetables that again contained what? Cepes! The biggest disappointment was the dry, over-done beef fillet. I asked it to be medium, it was somewhere between medium well and well done. Not very nice at all, despite a very good sauce. Cheese trolley was great but the waiter stopped after serving me three tiny portions. Baba au rhum was very good. Liked the verveine infusion prepared by the tableside. The wine list is focused on rare and expensive prestige wines from famous producers only, no affordable finds from anywhere, hardly a bottle for under 100 Euros. Interesting that six tables remained empty throughout the entire service and two tables featured other three-star chefs with their partners, spying on the competition. Don't get me wrong, this was a highly enjoyable meal even for 500 Euros per head but it didn't quite meet the "4-star" expectation I had.

Congratulations to your brother. This is certainly a location that provides everything one would need for a great restaurant. Do you also know what happened to the charming Daniel Galmiche? Is he moving elsewhere? And who is taking over Winteringham Fields?

Wow, that sounds terrific, thanks very much indeed. I won't be able to go back the next day either as I will be heading back to Britain after lunch. But the day before I will be dining at Joel Robuchon (**) in Monte Carlo which will allow for a direct comparison. (And also try out the new chef at the Chantecler in Nice, apparently MOF 2007.) That is another aspect of it too - with the opening of the Dorchester restaurant, Robuchon and Ducasse will be competing in Paris, Monaco, London and (soon again) New York.

Matthew, I will be at Louis XV next week. Is there anything that impressed you most, any dishes from the current menu that you would recommend in particular?

For me, some of these unforgettable memories are Jacques Pic (and his wonderful Menu Rabelais, still digesting ...) Taillevent under chef Claude Deligne Troisgros under Pierre Troisgros L'Auberge de l'Ill under Paul Haeberlin Joel Robuchon's Jamin Claude Peyrot's Vivarois Alain Senderens's Lucas Carton Tour d'Argent under Claude Terrail (and with three Michelin stars) Jean Ducloux's Greuze Comme Chez Soi under Pierre Wynants Some places I never made it to in time will have to wait until time travel becomes possible: Fernand Point Alain Chapel Louis Outhier Francois Bise Pierre Gaertner Charles Barrier Raymond Thuilier

I have got one advice for you how to maximise the experience - choose some of the great classics a la carte. I had the Blue lobster grilled & flamed, with herb butter (in 2 services), followed by the Fillet of Charolais beef with chopped ginger and pepper, lacquered with a meat glaze. These are dishes that rely heavily on the quality of the basic ingredients. I found Troisgros to use only the very best. It was hard to imagine a better lobster or a better beef. So, my advice would be to go for less but more substantial courses and give the itsy-bitsy tasting menu a miss. I have known this restaurant since when Pierre was still head chef and have to say that I don't find all of Michel's avant-garde creations to be a real progress in comparison.

Louis XV in Monte Carlo has about 50 covers, Ducasse at Plaza-Athénée in Paris about 60. If the new Dorchester place wants to play in the same league, 80 covers is indeed a fairly high number. But then it all depends on logistics and numbers of staff ...

More details have emerged about Alain Ducasse’s new venture at the Dorchester. The 80-cover restaurant will be situated in the former Terrace space overlooking Park Lane and is scheduled to open on 13th November. Reservations will be taken from 1st October onwards. Head chef will be Nicola Canuti, whose prior experience includes Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monte Carlo (and also a stint working for Marco Pierre White). Most recently, he cooked at Ducasse's Spoon des Iles in Mauritius. Sous chef will be Bruno Riou and pastry chef Angelo Ercolano. Christian Laval, the maitre d', has worked at Ducasse's three-star restaurants in both Paris and Monte Carlo and has managed Spoon Food & Wine in Paris since 1998. He will be supported by Philippe Beaucourt. Hugues Lepin, the head sommelier, also has prior Ducasse experience, but has most recently been Head Sommelier for Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's.

I am just wondering what effect (if any) this closure is going to have on both Pétrus and Gordon Ramsay's at Claridges. After all they are both located in hotels that are also run by the Maybourne hotel group, the same that operates the Connaught. Can you fall out with somebody in one place and be friends and good business partners in another?

From what I can remember, this is a cold dish. None of the elements, of course, are served very cold or chilled. Are you adding Oak Moss and Truffle Toast as well? What a fantastic show effect this would be in a private setting!

Why not try Senderens, 9 Place de la Madeleine? Certainly not a brasserie, but a casual place with great, unashamedly French food. http://www.lucascarton.com/

I suspect there is a zero too much. Did you pay £200 rather than £2000? Not even a rare vintage of Clos St Hune would be that dear, would it? And food-wise, Racine does not quite reach the price level of Le Gavroche. Or does it?!

How did he say? You don't have to impress the diners, you only have to impress yourself. All we have to do is feed 76 people ... From a diner's perspective, I'm not sure I agree with this. My palate would like to be impressed and excited, specially by a kitchen led by a chef of this caliber.

I have still got my Oak Room menu and would not give it away for love or money. It is printed on the heaviest hand-made paper my hands have ever touched and contains all those wonderful dishes. Yes, the pigs trotter has the name Koffman next to it. But the best thing is the Dali quote on the first page: "At the age of six I wanted to be a chef. At seven I wanted to be Napoleon. And my ambitions have been growing steadily ever since." What I remember most about the Oak Room is not so much Marco's food though, I have to say. It is the unbelievably luxurious atmosphere and service. This was a haven of luxury without any compromise. The only comparison that comes to my mind is Ducasse's Louis XV in Monte Carlo.