Vadouvan
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Posts posted by Vadouvan
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Dont feel bad, there are well over 100 baby sprouts.....
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Sup Bill.....
Sour cloves are a type of baby (salad) green with a distinct tang and character similar to sorrel.
I believe Oxalic acid makes it sour.
There are lots of sources for fancy stuff that will never see retail shelves......
A lot comes from bucks CO places such as Blue Moon Acres in Buckingham.....
Read......
http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/food-for-thought
also
http://www.culinaryvegetableinstitute.com/
I know you are the KING of cooking vacations........
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Can you store it the same way you can ginger?
I dont know how you store ginger but just leave it in the fridge in a ziplock bag, should last well over 3 weeks. I know people who store ginger in sherry in the refrigerator but the point is it no longer tastes or smells like ginger, it sherry marinated ginger.....
Also freezes well indefinitely if vacuum packed.
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The salad leaves would do it for sure.....
I am almost certain citric acid would curdle right away
BUT you may be able to use citric acid if you introduce it in powdered form *along with* standard Ice cream stabilizer ??
Or one of the fancy emulsifiers from TIC gums.
TIC has a few pretested "Dairyblend" stabilizers I am using which is what makes the Lemon-Brie Ice Cream work with liquid citric acid to up the tang because its served cold.
I suppose the citric acid may cause synerisis otherwise ?
Check this out bro....
http://www.ticgums.com/store/product.asp?product_id=2179
Hit me up, I can give you the email for an inside rep I met at IFT in Orlando, she knows everything.
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Z...
I made a reservation today, shockingly, I just called .....they picked up in 5 rings and Booked lunch.
I am trying lunch before commiting to dinner.
Lunch 3 courses $45
Dinner 3 courses $85
Its either the best deal in the city or the dishes are microscopic.
Atelier Robuchn has lots of single dishes that cost more than that....
We shall see....
The website is Lame, there is barely any info.
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David, I find that most supposedly egg focused dishes are lost in translation, they become no longer about the eggs, all these fancy breads, tasso, shrimp, proscuitto just distract you from the true pleasures of egg consumption.
Keep it simple.
By Croque Madame, I am assuming you dont want an open face sandwich ?
And then a fried egg on top.........
Typical Crouque is Sandwich filled with ham, bechamel and gruyere, fried in clarified butter or panini grilled ?
Eggs and Truffles love each other, go to dean and deluca or citarella and buy a small jar of black truffle cream, its actually just cheap.
Would be nice if you went to Union square market and actually got some real farm eggs.
Do you know how to boil eggs perfectly without any sulphuric smell and perfect colored yolks ?
Make the sandwich with....
Brioche
Good cooked and NOT cured ham, cured hams are too salty, distracts from the eggs..
Make a thin Bechamel with chopped boiled eggs folded in at the end.
very young gruyere, no aged stuff or Comte.....
Truffle cream
Fry up that sucker......the eggs will speak to you.......
Remember the truffle egg toast at Ino ????
Kinda like that but better.....
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I finally got to smell galangal...a little like Vick's Vaporub ! (I'll still try it, of course)
Galanga is one of the key backbone ingredients of Thai and Vietnamese cooking.
Unfortunately, Dry or powdered galanga is *not* an acceptable substitute for the fresh roots which you can buy on any day of the week at 12th and washington in south philly.
Rhizomes like galanga are heavily dependent on thier volatile essential oils such that when dries (basically evaporated) what is left is a dying whisper and quite frankly an unpleasant medicinal substitute of the flavors you are trying to introduce into your cooking........thus having no culinary value in authentic south east asian cooking.
It would be like using powdered tomatoes to make marinara sauce.
Do use the fresh stuff, its quite good.
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Lateralus is right on, the young man is driven and few are as passionate about "the art" any more.
He will in fact do good things, I have no doubt.
I just caution Lateralus its better to swoop in unnoticed without raising expectations too much..........and nailing it...........which he will.
Shhhhh.
he's got his wings......let him fly......
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Where is that? JAS Sunrise Mart sounds familiar.
Is that in Manhattan, somewhere below 22nd, east of Broadway?
Very vague recollection of a mart, but I would probably only be able to find it by wandering around the area again. It was across from a great Japanese bookstore.
This post has been edited by herbacidal: Oct 13 2006, 04:09 PM
There are two sunrise marts herb, one in St Marks Place and the other on Broome just before west Broadway heading into the Holland Tunnel.
The problem with finding such ingredients as Yuzu, Sudachi Lime, Wasabi Root,shiro dashi, yuzu kosho, Matsutake, natto Beans ect ect......is that most of the Asian places in philly are chinese, vietnamese, limited Thai with almost no japanese ingredients. Japanese food has its own completely different aromatic base and you would have to have someone committed to Japanese Food not other Asian Foods.
None of the places on washington have anything beyond basic shoyu, oversweetened american mirin and extremely low quality kombu and bonito. Forget about fresh ingredients. You will only find basics like enoki and shiitake. You can buy all these stuff online though if you are willing to pay for it........Mitsuwa in North Jersey (Lincoln Tunnel) does a decent job, some food produce, fish is ok.......but it's worth going to......you can shiseido yourself silly....
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Wow, a company in business to make money -that's so odd.
This post has been edited by weinoo: Today, 07:59 AM
I was hoing to sublimate it into a more intelligent conclusion.........not so much to take issue with commerce but more the issue of companies selling a different perspective to the public, sure romance sells and some people want it. The point was any company saying they commisioned a product "specially for them" gives the impression that they had some creative stylistic input into the said product. While the product is an excellent one, that clearly is not the case here wether you want to believe it or not.
Whole foods does this all the time with misplaced political clout.
I guess it ultimately depends on how gullible people want to be.
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Unfortunately, most people go for taste-memory association and the colorant laden high fructose corn syrup infused Heinz ketchup rules.
There are a few things in life that start to suck the fancier you make them.
ketchup is one of those things.
Besides most things you eat with ketchup arent good for you.......
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It is labeled as "an exclusive Whole Foods limited blend"
I am always a bit suspicious when I see "exclusive" and "limited"
in the same sentence.
John, you are a wise man, your Bullsh*t receptors are working properly.
Whole foods is full of crap and its the company that proves most Americans will eat up any corporate BS you feed them.
I will explain later.
It could be a blend created for WF, that suits their customers taste
There is no "uniform taste" of whole foods customers.
The top level WF buyers are not bumpkins - they have great palates and understand the provenence of good products. I don't think they would fall for an inferior product and try to move it by calling it "limited and exclusive"I am sorry, I have to disagree, that is exactly what they are doing, the Manni oil is not inferior, its quite excellent.............they are just hyping it calling it "limited and exclusive", jacking up the price over 100% more than if you bought it directly yourself. Whole foods has no interest in the proliferation of good olive oil, they are simply doing it for the $$$$.
I suspect that what I purchased at Whole Foods is indeed a blend other than Per Me or Per Mio Figlio. I am curious as to whether or not this same "special" blend is also available at stores other than Whole Foods and if so, are these the same as the WF blend or are truly other special blends.You would have to get the true answer from Manni though I suspect it isnt.
Manni is a great olive oil company that makes a fantastic product but I suspect they may be at the beginning of starting to sell out thier souls to marketing ploys.
In my line of work, I buy a case of Per Me and Figlio about once every 4 months which is just about the only cost effective way to do it if you can swing the $275.
It's cheaper than a PerSe dinner for example.....
Manni sent out an offer a few months ago to it's regular customers touting it's special blend for 2006. I think there is some issue of translation between what the Italians at Manni are saying exactly and what the deal is.
1. They claim to be making 5 Blends.
Are all 5 blends the same ?
Are they different from Per Me and figlio?
If so how ?
2. In order to buy one of the 5 blends (assuming they are different) you have to buy a
*minimum* lot of 150 boxes at $55 each........$ 8250.00
They will also "personalise" it to you complete with your ribbons.
As you see its quite expensive thus only big corporations or deep pocketed restaurants can afford the investment. It is being marketed as a Holiday promotion.
So I think there will be 5 holiday Blends.
Whole foods has one.
Who has the four others ?
You just have to wait and see when they start popping up with different ribbons.
Though it's probably a good way to move oil, i think it's a bad marketing idea, confuses the consumers and is just a thinly veiled licensing deal of which the licensees are just buying prestige because they can afford $8000 minimum orders rather than they actually care about olive oil.
It smacks of American consumerism and frankly isnt what top Tuscan producers want to be known for. Dont get me wrong, i love the oil, its fantastic but it's "specialness" is being eroded by mass marketing.
Here is a transcript of the Manni e mail from a few months ago....
Draw you own conclusions
As summer closes, we are preparing our exclusive Limited Edition’s of MANNI oil for corporate or personal gift giving at the holidays. As usual we can only produce 5 and this year we have had 2 pre-orders. The details of the Limited Edition’s are outlined below.2006 has been a fantastic year for our little company. We were asked for the second year in a row to be part of the Oscar gift basket, in May we were the only olive oil maker to give a lecture on olive oil at an international conference, “Italy and the Mediterranean Diet”, sponsored by New York University and the James Beard Foundation. In June we were invited to give a lecture and vertical tasting at the Wine & Food Festival in Aspen and also at the Jackson Hole Wine Auction. We really can’t ask for more recognition.
MANNI Oil, LIMITED EDITION 2006:
We use our premium oil and our special gift box, however, we personalize each one, making it exclusive to you at no extra cost per box (note the price on our web site: 44 euro per box = around 55us$ per box) for a minimum order of 150 Gift Boxes.
- Limited Edition’s are a minimum order of 150 Gift Boxes. Each box features a new ribbon (used to close the box) that will read LIMITED EDITION FOR.... (the name of your company or your name if you prefer).
- Each of the 5 Limited Edition’s will feature a different colored ribbon (the brown series, the red series etc.) The different colored ribbons along with your personal inscription ensures that each edition is unique and exclusive to you.
- The boxes will have a handwritten number under the olive tree on the front of the box instead of the serial number normally printed on the back. As a Limited Edition the serial numbers will read 1 of 150, 2 of 150 etc.
- Because of the individualized production we need 45 days to fill the order and deliver it to you in time for the holidays.
If you are interested in having one of the 5 Limited Edition’s for the holidays, please contact soon.
E-mail at info@manni.biz
Or call me at 011-39-3358100018
Yesterday I came across Manni oil at the localWhole Foods.
$39.95 for 250ml
JohnL
Per Me and Per Mio Figlio come in 100 ml bottles for $27 each.
You bought 250 ml of the "special blend " for $40
That means 100ml of the "special blend" is $16
while Per me/per mio figlio is $11 more expensive.
looking at wholesale prices of similar UV resistant bottles, I estimate 75cents for each bottle
So there is still at least a $10 discrepancy that is making the "special blend" a lot cheaper.
thats why I think somehing is wrong.
If the "special blend" was better, why is it a lot cheaper ?
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Is the wheat gluten to give the ultra-thin dough added strength during the fabrication process?
Yes, coupled with elasticity....
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There is no fresh Yuzu in Philadelphia, I can confidently tell you that.
I have been to every grocery store.
The only place that I ever found it was Midori when it was on chestnut.
Not even Han Ah Rhuem.
Midori got it from True world foods and Nishimoto trading in New Jersey.
The only retail outlet I have seen for Yuzu and Sudachi Lime is Sunrise Mart.
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Is heavy cream that effective of a stabilizer? Even if it is a good stabilizer heavy cream has a strong tendency to coat the palate and mask flavors, flavors, that, in this instance, I don't think you'd want to be masking.
The protein in the chicken and the egg are good emulsifiers/stabilizers, the port might be a nice addition to flavor, but the cream...
The cream isnt a stabilizer, its a binder combined with egg and chicken (protein).
Cream does Mask flavors used in copious amounts.
In the specified amount for the above recipe, it is a non issue.
Rather....... canned livers are too intensely strong for raviolis because they are preparations that are designed to be eaten cold.
Furthermore, they have been seasoned with salt with the intent of cold consumption such that heating them up makes them too salty. They therefore need to be cut with the chicken which also acts as a binder and the cream acts as an agent to adjust the durometer (compression texture and mouthfeel) of the final product so it isnt a hockey puck. The only thing worse than pastas that are too thick are fillings that are too dense. In this case, cream presents *needed* dilution and structure.
Regarding the port, if you can reduce it even further (2 T.) without impairing the taste, I'd recommend it, as water tends to run contrary to stabilization. With less water, this recipe shouldn't require quite so much chicken and egg to maintain an emulsion when heated.This may be a matter of opinion.....I disagree.
"White port" which really isnt port but more a sweet wine is being used primarily for its color and sweetness so the color of the mousse is light blond and not off pink/brown from "red port".
Unfortunately like Mirin, reducing white port to less than 1/4 of its initial volume changes it's flavor profile to a nasty medicinal tasting reduction.
The protein ratio in the recipe provides enough structure to absorb all that liquid.
It isnt simply the amount of chicken, its also the temperature.
In fact I use a food processor with a metal bowl which is pre-frozen before making the mousse, the heat generated by the motor thus does not affect the preparation.......the temperature stabilizes the emulsion......totally fool proof.
Freezing the chicken helps if you dont have a metal bowl.....just chill everything.
Interesting because this was the very basic procedure but now cooks are quick to resort to "molecular" processes without nailing down the old school basics.
that is evolution....but a dose of tradition.....????
If methocel works, other, more easily obtainable hydrocolloids, such as xanthan and guar gums, should work as well. With a very thin layer of pasta, these ravioli shouldn't need to cook that long. If the filling starts out chilled and the cooking time is short, the final temp of the filling may not be that high. My guess is that the foie mousse shouldn't require that much stabilization. One could also combine different stabilizers in hopes of achieving a synergistic effect. For instance, one could try a little chicken protein, an egg yolk, a tiny amount of xanthan and a tiny amount of guar. The net amount of additional ingredients would be quite a bit less, providing a bolder foie flavor, at the same time, the level of stabilization might be the same (or even higher).Lastly, if you had a lot of time on your hands, you could form the filling in two layers, the outside having a greater proportion of stabilizing ingredients/less foie flavor and the inside with less, as the inside will be exposed to quite a bit less heat than the layer closest to the pasta. If it's a very small ravioli, this may not be practical.
though other gums or combinations of gums may work, I would simply use DOW's methocel as the various formulations have fairly precise gelling temperatures. That way you could add wheat gluten to the pasta dough, roll it almost trasparently thin and poach it in a water bath.
The filling would gel and the wrapper would just disappear......
Good discussion....i feel like it should be on the methocel thread ?
is there one ?
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Actually doing the above, however, is very different than simply coming up with the idea.
Awww cmon Zupon, you dont seem to be strapped for time.....
How goes it at Zze kitchen lab...?
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I can't help but think the liver would be a horrible waste in ravioli - covering up and conflicting too many of the delicate flavors AND consistency of the liver in pasta. I think the pasta-to-liver ratio would be too high. I'm thinking about smaller brioche-filled foie gras puffs I've had, where the bread-to-liver ratio was higher but the lightness and egginess of brioche accentuated the liver. Could be wrong, though...
Indeed you are Carolyn......Goose liver raviolis can be transcedental if made properly.
the issue of liver to pasta ratio is simply a function of making good pasta than can be rolled out thinly without breaking......as in using a higher strength flour.....basically eggs and "00" flour.
Would you add anything to the tinned liver before making the ravioli? Do you think that it could be put in a pastry bag and piped on a sheet of fresh pasta and make like the agnolotti described in the French Laundry cookbook. I was also thinking of using a brown butter sage sauce. Any suggestions would be appreciated.1. YES you would have to add something to the liver because once the ravioli hits the hot water, foie mousse is a cold to room temp emulsion and would break in hot water thus leaving you with grease filled raviolis. You would need to make it a heat stable emulsion.
Measure out the following :
Weigh your liver mousse....outside the can.
Weigh 30% of the above weight Boneless skinless chicken breast and freeze it till almost solid.
Cut up the chicken into small pieces before freezing.
Buy white port (its cheap) and reduce 1 cup of it to about 1/4 cup and cool.
1 Whole egg
1/2 cup Chilled Heavy Cream
salt and pepper to taste....(pinch)
Puree everything but the cream in a food processor quickly till well emulsified.
Check with a spatula.
Turn machine back on and add the cream till emulsified.
Adjust flavor with salt and white pepper.
Transfer to a pastry bag and keep refrigerated.
You can basically use the agnolotti dough from the Laundry cookbook and bang out ravioli's or agnolottis with this filling.
Your sage brown butter and some Reggiano sounds divine.......
Edited to add:
And you can skip the Frenchie old school method above by simply using 20% chicken breast and methylcellulose (methocel) thus avoiding the eggs and cream ..........giving a more intense Liver flavor.
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My issue isnt with your post urbanfabric....its the suspiciously ethusiastic one that follows it.......
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Well, maybe not a review, but certainly a comment:
You missed the point........and the elephant on the coffee table.
Read between the lines.
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I have not been to LaCroix since Matt took over the kitchen, but after reading your review of the party food, it sounds like it might be time. I am a long time fan of Levin's having first eaten his fantastic food when he was the Executive Chef at Moonlight in New Hope (closed for a few years) His food blew me away and I am happy that he has found a new home in Philly.
Interesting.......As inspector Clouseau would say.....very interesting Indeed.
there was no actual review of the "party food" to the degree of rushing over there,was urbanfabric's post edited ?
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I know Urena is being classified as Spanish but even using modern Spanish as the standard I'm not sure I would agree.
Joe, you are confusing
URENA 32 E 38th Street.
with
URENA'S 2262 3rd avenue.
Completely different restaurants, you are referring to Alex formerly of Blue Hill.
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Goat Milk, fig and Olive caramel would work deliciously.........
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maybe use yuba.
.....or skip the hassle and use regular milk and Methocel A 15 c.....
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do you know what he needs it for, maybe i can give him an alternative.
Sheeps milk ricotta?
I am guessing "milk skin" a -la Michel Bras / Andoni Aduriz......
Well JM......whats the deal ?
Gordon Ramsay at the London
in New York: Dining
Posted
I predict it will be more "maze" portions and plate aesthetic than "royal hospital road"
Maze was 3 courses, 35 quid.
Delicious but tiny portions.