H. du Bois

I think it's wildly inconsistent. The food and service were both very good the night I dined there, though clearly rare few others have had the same experience. And I'd never have fought my way through a scrum just in order to dine out, so again, the timing was good. I'm not sure that one star is going to detract from its popularity much, though - this isn't a place people are battling to be at just for the food.

eGullet receives a mention in Jeffrey Steingarten's column in the new May 07 issue of Vogue, page 276. His topic is Jim Lahey's no-knead bread, made famous by Mark Bittman's article in the Times. Steingarten speaks of the huge reaction among the food community, and states:

[Delete - FG already answered.]

I was referring to the theft allegations - the first I read of it was Neroni's "imagine my surprise" statement. IMO, it doesn't reflect well on either of them, playing it out in the press like this.

Blood sausage.

A bacon butty is a wonderful thing. The first time I had one, I was a little worried - in the states, we eat "streaky" bacon, and it sounded like it would be a BLT minus the L, T and mayo. But English bacon (much meatier), fried, is a perfect foil for the bread - and doesn't really need anything more. So good.

Which of them was the first to go public with the accusation. Neroni?

So, how did it hold up? Do tell!

Hide dishes in the bathtub? But that's where I hide the cat litter! (God, sometimes I hate living in a tiny city flat). It's really like living in a different country - things that others take for granted (like dishwashers!) aren't necessarily a given here. Re: the shoe issue, I don't take offense at being asked to remove them (I have traveled in Japan, and know the politesse issues involved). I would hate getting caught with a hole in my stockings though, and that's happened. I do have friends who never let anyone wear street shoes inside (they've got crawling toddlers), but they've got a collection of great slippers from Morocco in a myriad of sizes for anyone to use.

All right, I'll bite. I love that movie, and can't think of anything that would meld Il Buco and D&C together (other than the random fact that I like them both). What?

Il Buco was for many years, and right from the very get-go, my favorite restaurant in New York (which I guess makes me one of the retarded clientele). I liked it so much that I stopped telling people about it, because I was afraid it might get popular (alas, it didn't work). I always found the food very good, and the wine terrific. Given that I was a regular there for years, that said a lot. Haven't been in a long time - will have to check it out. * One of my favorite things was drinking post-prandial port down in the wine cellar after dinner - don't know if they still do that.

Ya know, I tried to start a thread to remedy that once . . . . What? Places we hate?

We were there on a Tuesday night, fairly early (famous faces were just beginning to arrive as we were leaving). I'd guess that early in the evening, early in the week would be a better bet if you're there for the food.

The one thing I will say is that despite their name - the biscuit is a little pitiful ! not bad by any degree, never been undercooked or anything but it's small and does not look like the big white fluffy buttermilk style I associate and regardless prefer. j Trust me, mine was raw in the middle. And given that they charged me a chunk of change extra for it, I was peeved. Maybe I'll give them one last shot. But you know, they didn't give me any sauces on the side, either. I have no idea if they're any good or not.

I don't believe this has much to do with sensationalism or tabloid journalism as much as it has to do with the basic function of a newspaper in providing accurate reporting as well as gravitas. There's plenty of room for entertainment and opinion. The Times (and other new outlets) are basically downplaying or sublimating good accurate reporting which engenders trust and lends gravitas to their coverage (of whatever)-- in favor of "personality reporting" that amounts to reporting imbued with the so called life experience and personality of the person doing the reporting. There are some very talented reporters/writers who can pull this off and maintain a standard of accuracy and detachment a good reporter needs to accurately convey information and perspective. A review (of anything) is always part objective and part subjective. The fact that the paper itself "brags" that their reporter on global climate is in fact, a musician who plays with an environmental activist like Pete Seeger is indicative of how the current management "sees" the role of reporters. How anyone could possibly read a piece on global warming and feel comfortable that the paper is presenting a subject with accuracy and expertise is beyond me. Restaurant reviewing is not as serious as general news reporting. I agree. However, isn't it more important that its reviews (as opposed to feature writing or blogging are imbued with perspective and experience as well as overall expertise? (one can provide this and be witty and entertaining in the process). To use someone you note as an example Mimi Sheraton is more than qualified to write reviews of restaurants. She is also an entertaining writer. While her writing is personal she does not let her personality get in the way of the task at had--reviewing a restaurant. I feel that while he has his moments, Bruni's writing is awkward and one wonders what how to take his comments--does he really know what he is talking about? I agree he knows his cinema and musical theatre! There's just way too much debate over Bruni at this point to make even his fans feel comfortable that he has credibility as a restaurant and food critic. But there are two separate issues. Bruni's competence as a restaurant reviewer: I think most here agree here it's low. The appropriateness of the Robert's review: that's what there's been disagreement about. I don't see one as having much to do with the other. Thank you. Agreed (on the two separate issues point).

If she's really wants the cheese shop experience, she should go to Murray's Cheese Shop. She can catch the #1 train downtown from 34th & 7th to the Christopher Street stop (very short & close, in NYC terms). If you google Murray's, a google map will come up that can guide her the rest of the way there. IMHO, it's worth it.

Here's a link to an old thread in which differences between Thai and Lao cuisine are discussed. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...aded&show=&st=&

I really don't get why you are so outraged by this article. I really, really don't. It's not from a lack of your saying enough about it. Rather, I just cannot see what provoked this degree of response from you.

Me too.

If only we had real Lao food here. I keep dropping hints to some people I know, but they think that opening a restaurant in NYC would be a completely insane thing to do. And they're right!

I haven't eaten Issan food, but I wouldn't presume that they're the same. Lao food tastes quite different from Thai, even though they're geographically quite close. And many Lao people have told me that their food differs from Hmong food, even though the Hmong live in Laos.

Next time, look before you leave! You must have arrived after we were seated - I was at the bar for a while, waiting for Rich and the missus.

Had the great pleasure of dining at Morandi last night with board member Rich and his lovely wife, Mrs. S. I loved the place. Keith McNally has a rare gift with ambience – it isn’t easy creating a restaurant that feels fresh without feeling brand new, and warm and atmospheric without being twee. It hits every mark in terms of lighting and design, and I have to say too, that for a place that didn’t have any visible soft surfaces, the din that usually makes conversation difficult was missing, despite the place being packed and running full throttle. You’d never know that they’d just opened – service was seamless. We started with the meatballs, which were exactly the Sicilian grandma comfort food that Rich had said they were. Our server recommended a seasonal pasta dish (the name of which I can’t remember) containing cream, cabbage and speck. Oh, it was delicious – a hint of nutmeg within. I had to try their ribolitta, the bread soup I’d become addicted to in Tuscany. So maybe it tastes better when you’re eating it while looking at the hills of Sienna – theirs is still damned good. And the skate was heavenly. I’d go back for that alone. We finished up with a cheese plate (not really my thing, so I ordered the bitter chocolate with cherries). McNally introduced himself and thanked us as we left – nice touch. Morandi doesn’t aspire to be more than beautifully executed comfort food in an enticingly homey setting, but boy, does it get it right.

I live quite near, and did takeout from them once - a chicken and rib combo. Thought they were just okay, nothing more. But it was the biscuits that really gave me pause - they charge you extra for them, tout them as being quite famous, and mine were seriously underbaked (gummy in the middle). That's a baking 101 error, and it shouldn't have happened. Not with something they're selling to customers. Can't speak for what they serve when you dine in.

Susan - You don't understand. It's just so fall on the floor funny for a bunch of gay guys to go to a strip club - and then stick cute little remarks into the review like "[w]e were...less susceptible to the scenery than other men might be...". Isn't it ? You do know Frank Bruni is gay - yes? And we both know a straight guy would get his head handed to him for doing this. Robyn ← I didn't know if he is or isn't, and didn't pick up from the review anything that would indicate one way or another. Frankly, I don't care. There are places like this in New York. People go there, sometimes for the food, sometimes for the atmosphere. It's no big deal.