ulterior epicure

I know, for a fact, that their gelato is not made in-house. They get it mailed from Michigan... which explains its poor consistenncy... but maybe they've improved?

Agreed, I have had a couple of good meals at Cafe Sebastienne. If there are off-experiences (as I'm sure there are at even the best restaurants), I hope the staff finds a way to correct them. Edited: to enable link.

I re-read Lauren Chapin's review of Phillips Chophouse. I have to admit, I never sat down to fully read this until now. The only thing I had noticed a few weeks ago (has it been a month?) when I glanced at the article was the first line: "After two wonderful meals..." But, now, I've read every sentence leading up to the last... here's some of what happens in-between: "The dish was an embarrassment of riches... The rich and mineral-y pork fell off the bone in two-bite chunks." Tell me, anyone, what is "mineral-y pork?" I'm not trying to be snarly, I simply am confused by this statement. "Shortcomings were easily summerized: Hardiman hasn't mastered rice and risottos. All three times I tried a rice dish... the rice was undercooked..." Okay, fair observation... "There were a few other quibbles: The Hollandaise sauce on the steak Oscar had no lemon taste..." Sure, this too makes sense... "While the tableside presentation [of a pineapple flambe] was well-executed... the final product was unwieldly. Served in an elegant but asymmetrical bowl and a spoon, the hot slices of pineapple immediately melted the honey ice cream. I had to snatch a fork and knife from the empty talbe next to me to carve into pineapple." I'd have to agree with her here - I hate it when ice cream melts before you eat it - AND when there's not adequate service ware ready!! BUT - here's the kicker - the last sentence of the review: "But all these misstemps seem ones of finesse and experience and not raw talent and vision." Undercooked rice (on three tries), non-lemon Hollandaise, and serving a freshly flambeed chunk of pineapple in a bowl with ice cream with nothing but a spoon to eat it with is not my idea of finesse or experience... that doesn't even seem like raw talent. Edited to add: FWIW, she gave it 3 stars.

That's too funny! I thought the same thing when I saw that!!

Right, what JWest said... shouldn't the review be for the restaurant, not the chef? Shouldn't diner expect the same level of quality whether one particular chef or person is in the house... ??

I went back and read Lauren Chapin's review of Cafe S. While I've had great experiences there, it seems like what she and both G.E. Fellrath are saying are one in the same... but Chapin gives it four stars and Fellrath gives it one. They seem to agree there's something funny with the crab cakes. Also, I find it interesting that Chapin and Fellrath both describe the budino in sorta the same way, but Chapin doesn't really say whether and why she liked it so much - other than it tastes sweet? I just have a hard time finding how she justifies her ratings.

I remember seeing a post (somewhere on eGullet) linking to an article in the NY Times (I think). It was a hilarious and cute interview with a French chocolatier/chef (Robuchon? J. Torres?) where the chocolatier/chef tasted a variety of chocolates blind-folded. I can't find that post or the article... it's been a while. Can anyone help me out? Appreciate it!!

Yeah, I know, it's me - the teetotaler. So, I came across a dusty bottle of Barton & Guiestier Pommard in my basement... vintage 1983. Tell, me how bad is this going to be? Should I not even bother opening it?

tammylc. Wonderful photos! Some of those dishes make me really want to return to Alinea - like the "Lamb, mastic, etc...," "Trout Roe, cucumber, etc...," and that "King Crab" - so gorgeous!! Oh, and that "Hamachi!" I can't wait to hear what you thought of each course. Also, that "Matsutake" course - there's a glass, and then it's gone in the next photo. Did the server remove it, leaving the food in a still-composed stack? 'Splain please... I know, I know, first the porn, then the review... just so intrigued... Thanks!!

Resurrecting this thread with a question. I have a bottle of the Alvear Solera PX. I want to pair it with a dessert. Can anyone suggest a good recipe - I'm thinking pumpkin bread pudding or something winter-spice-y... maybe involving pecans... figs? Would love ideas!

I assure you, it's my only (sweet) vice. [Edited to add: And, I don't even like the sweet kinds... bitter and dark] ... Okay, ice creams too, but thats it!!

Wow - sounds like a wonderful place! I need to make a visit! 90th and what cross street?

Hi golfgirl! Welcome to the eGullet Heartland, USA!! I've never heard of Mid-America Gourmet, but le snob in me is fearful of your comment "it smells INCREDIBLE in there" - as yummy chocolate-y-smelling chocolate stores usually smell that way because of vanillin, a flavor additive. However, if Mid-America Gourmet smells wonderful for other reasons, ohhh, say, cinnamon buns and fresh-out-of-the oven bread, then that's a whole other story... I did want to report back on my chocolate quest and taking up joiei's suggestion posted above. I have to admit that my report on the bar of Chocolat Bonnat "Hacidenda el Rosaria" will have to wait... I've been distracted by two other chocolates that I found at Whole Foods. WF's selection is a bit better than I remember. I found a couple of different labels that intrigued me. I picked up two bars from the same company - Dolfin. It's a Belgian chocolatier. They make a number of different bars. I couldn't decide between the Chocolat Noir à la Cannelle de Ceylan or the Chocolat Noir 88% Cacao, so I picked them both up. (You can see their full line here... although WF only carries a few of them). The Cannelle was such a surprise. It is dark, but at a depressingly 52%. However, the grainy bits of cinnamon really intensifies the flavor and the deep dark spiciness of it that it tones down the sugar. The cinnamon is very aggressive, so if you're not a fan of the spice, I would recommend you stay away. The 88% was also wonderful - in a more familiar dark chocolate way - more familiar and approachable. It's very dark - not burnt - rich and mysterious. It hints of coffee and is a touch earthy. I really enjoyed this one. I look forward to comparing the Chocolat Bonnart bar - which, at $8.99, cost more than the Dolfin combined.

As they should be!! Thanks for the explanation. I just want to know what diners can usually expect from an experience at Butter. No doubt, they're in for a treat.

What she said. Although I don't drink, the last time I did Bowle's chef's tasting my two friends did do the pairings and they were quite impressed with the pairings. I did the non-alcoholic pairings, and they were an exquisite experience all to themselves. u.e.

OK, clearly, I need to do some reading-up on Uovo... and its closing... *sheepish*

... or, one might see it as journalistic responsibility. After all, we all realize that the Restaurant Critic of the NY Times has the ability to make or break a restaurant/chef in a very short amount of time. Now, I don't know anything about Uovo (i.e. its following), nor have I listened to the said podcast. Just a thought. u.e.

So, yesterday was the grand opening of nara, neo-japanese robata grill at 1617 main street in downton KC. It's sexy, it's trendy and it's hip-hop-hoppin'. I really am impressed with what they've done with the place. It sits, kinda lonely, on that stretch of Main Street. But, I have NO DOUBT that the area will soon crowd with other like-minded joints. It's a owned by Casey Adams (sp?), son of the local car dealer, Ray Adams. The chef is Terry Barkley (sp?) - supposedly a vet of area restaurants from ages past and country clubs. Would love to know more about his "pedigree." I was there with a good friend and her "hens." Fun crowd - the type that would eat up the scene (no pun intended). We tried a number of things - from the small plates, salads, entrees and desserts. We also ordered a couple of items from the sushi bar cum robata grill. The theme is Japanese - tres nouveau. A quick glance at the menu sufficiently indicated that someone has done their homework on the Japanese cuisine. But, it's also obvious that someone has gone to some rather far-fetched extremes in "fusion." For instance, there's "Nara Gravlax:" "soy-ginger jalepeno cilatro cured, wild mushroom chopsticks, grilled shiitake slaw, wasabi sweet soy, mustard drizzle." ($9). Or, try the "Creamy wasabi" - described as "ranch with wasabi." From the robata menu, you could order grilled "Asian mozzerella" and tomato pesto or Ebi (sweet shrimp) marinated in a chipotle cilantro mix. Oh, I can't forget Grilled KC Polish Hill Wasabi Soy Sausage. I didn't try it, but I'll be curious from people who do! Prices are actually reasonable. nara seems to be going for the in-the-know eating crowd in one sense: they're sourcing some pretty nice products. Berkshire pork and beef, Kobe (or, I suspect, Wagyu), and fresh fish - very fresh. They say they are going to be getting them straight from a supplier out of Honolulu. The most expensive thing on the menu I saw was Kobe filet (I think it was 4oz.) for $32. Besides that and Miso Crusted Diver Scallops, which I coveted, at $22, all the other entrees were in the lower to mid-teens. Everything else on the menu was cheaper: Starters, or "small plates" were between $6 and $10... maybe a couple of $12 - like the Kobe "sashimi." There are the obligatory Asian items like Gyoza, spring rolls, and Miso Soup (except they spice it up with tahini). Sandwiches (and a wrap, which I found interesting) were in the $8-13 range. These come with your choice of fries, rice or something else. Can someone enlighten me as to what "Auro Pro Soy Burger" might be all about? I've never heard of it... Salads were pretty much all $10, except the House Salad which varies depending on what you put in it. There was a considerable number of dressings. The robata grill, which I briefly peeked at when I checked out the sushi bar, was glowing hot. They say they use real Japanese birchwood coals. They've got your run-of-the mill Yakitori (chicken and teriyaki) to grilled scallops. Prices ranged from $5-$15. The noodle list "read" pretty Asian ($10ish). I didn't try any of these. Chicken, beef, and a vegetarian option, I think. Maybe something with seafood (shrimp?) and a BBQ one... (maybe it's Asian BBQ?). I did see one of the gals with a bowl of the "Pork Meatball Egg Noodles" - but all I could see were noodles. I tried the Steamed P.E.I. Mussels (starter). They came steaming in a bowl with lobster broth, lime miso lemongrass, Thai basil and terribly piquant wasabi rice crackers as a garnish. The broth was very buttery, but very good. ($10). I also stuck with the straight-and-narrow tuna tataki (starter). The fish seemed very fresh, ruby red tuna. It was drizzled with three or four different sauces. I couldn't tell one from another - except the yellow one, which was very much mustard, of some sort. ($12). Friend had scallops from the robata - not bad. These were big diver scallops (I saw three on the plate, but by the time they made it to me, there was just a tiny half-morsel ) dusted in some unpronouncable spice mixture - Schichimi, or something like that. Never heard of it - unless it was a misspelling? Or it was just too loud to hear correctly? Among the hens, I also saw a very nicely grilled filet of salmon (salmon) - still a little raw-looking in the middle. And, another ordered the miso-covered scallops - which were just as big as the robata divers, but these were layered, nay, caked, with a thick layer of yellow miso paste. Sushi: Rolls tended to be kind of ugly and bland. One friend had the signature Octagon roll - I'm not exactly sure what was in it, but I know one component was was diced octopus in a LOT of mayonnaise. I think there was a cream cheese involved. Sashimi was very beautiful, but sort of middle-of-the-road. Their nigiri selection is sort of limited, but they say it's to focus on quality. I can't say the fish was not fresh, but it wasn't as good as it looked. I didn't get a good look at the sushi price list, but I think most nigiri were in the $2.50-$3.75 range. Rolls were between $6-$12 (maybe $15?) range. I did get to taste a bit of another girl's Sukiyaki. It was sweet, but not too much. There was slivers of Kobe beef in it. They looked dry. It also came with a bunch of different Asian veggies - Chinese cabbage, lotus root and shiitake mushrooms. There were also two types of noodles. ($16, if I remember correctly). What else? Let's see... Katie Nell, just for you: Dessert. Short and sweet. Four options. We tried them all. There was a Chai panna cotta - spiked with curry ($6) - served in a martini glass with blueberries. There was sorbet sampler, which I didn't order ($7) or try. The hens had pecked up what little was apparently there. Flavors did include passionfruit-mango, blueberry (I think?) and rose. Ginger pear yuzu cheesecake ($6). This was a pretty plate of three tiny half-circle cuts of cheesecake. I don't like cheesecake, and I didn't like this one. The only thing I did like were the soft dices of pear embedded in the cheese cake. I don't recall getting any ginger, though. It also came with a whipped cream infused with cinnamon - I didn't get that taste either... Lastly, there were C. Elbow's chocolate truffles. For more than double the price at his shop, you get three truffles ($10). They gave us Elbow's Caramel Fleur de Sel (one of my favorites), a Venezuelan Dark (another favorite), and their signature "Nara Yuzu" truffle - the only thing that might justify ordering this dessert. This square chocolate had nara's logo painted on it. The inside was a tart yuzu-infused milk chocolate ganache. To my understanding, Elbow makes this truffle exclusively for nara (notwithstanding the special labeling). The drinks menu is quite extensive. I had a fun time reading the sake list. Between tiny sips of the hens, I got to try a number of them, but I can't even begin to tell you what they were - nor could they... Would I go back? Yeah, probably. The price point was pretty amazing, considering what you get. Mind you (and I should remind myself), this was their first night, so I can certainly over-look some of the service issues - like the 20 minute wait between our starters and our mains. Then desserts were dropped almost at the same time we ordered. The servers were all very young and hip - a little clumsy with the menu knowledge (but it is a very extensive menu, with a lot of unlikely spices and ingredients) - but very friendly. u.e.

Most well-fed kid this side of the Mississippi!! Goat cheese and gelato at two. We'll be working on caviar and foie at five. By my age, who knows what he'll be putting in his mouth!! You're setting him up for some damn-near impossible expectations out of his later years, wench!!

I would argue that li'l man is much more civilized than many adults. I say: you'll be fine. From the times I've been, brunchers and the service is much more laid back (in a good way) than in the evenings.

Not to technologically profile here, but I suspected you were a Mac'er! I can attest to Megan's Spiced Pumpkin Pudding. OMG. And the Spiced Ceylon Tea Ice Cream - I could spoon that stuff!! It's so - autumnal... but I know I wouldn't mind seeing that dessert all year round! u.e.

Very nice. Goopy, bliss me out's are always good. I know that zin serves a Bully! Porter ice cream. Yum.

joiei. As you suggested, I went down to The Better Cheddar and re-perused the chocolate sections. Here's a non-exhaustive (but pretty darn close) inventory list: Bars Scharffen Berger: about six different percentages. They had both big and small bars. Valrona: They had large bulk for baking as well as the bars - maybe about six different percentages. Vosges Haut Chocolat: Maybe 5 or 6 different bars - including one of my favorite, the Red Fire. But, they were selling them for $7.49. I know Katrina Markoff sells them for $6 at her store in Chicago and Whole Foods carries it for the same price (I think). I know it isn't that much of a difference, but it's the principle. El Rey: Maybe 3 or 4 different bars of different percentages. Santander: 2, maybe 3 bars of different percentages. Caley's "Marching": This was a British bar that I'd never encountered before. It was amazingly cheap at $3.04. (Don't ask me why the odd change figures). 60% Feodores: A Spanish bar that I'd never encountered before. I think it was 60% Plantations: 1 bar, and I didn't catch what percentage it was. I've had a few of these bars before, and they're okay... the last time I had one, I know they were going through some management changes and the darker chocolates tended on the burnt-tasting end. Lake Champlain: Ubiquitous and also sold en masse at Whole Foods. I think TBC had about 3 or 4 of these demi-bars. Chocolat Bonnat: A French company - 6 bars - all single plantation 75%. Truffles/Bon Bons: They had quite a selection of fruit/liquor filled chocolate truffles - even an overpriced box of 9 Rabitos chocolate-covered figs. They also had the usual suspects like Fran's chocolate candies - like the "Gray Sea Salt" caramels at an unreasonably high $13/7 candies. Bessinger chocolates were $10 for 5 in a box. joiei is quite right. I can't bemoan a bad selection if I haven't tried all of the offerings. So, among all the bars and candies (i.d.'ed above), I singled out the brands I hadn't tried and decided on one to buy. That narrowed the field to three bars: Caley's "Marching," Feodores and Chocolat Bonnat. Mind you, I strongly prefer DARK chocolate. Thankfully, all three were dark, but I went with the darkest bars - the Chocolat Bonnat. Of course, they would be among the most expensive bars at TBC. $8.99 for a 100 gram bar. There were six bars: Trinite, Puerto Cabello, Equateur, Madagascar, Ceylan and Hacienda El Rosario. The company makes two others: Chuao, and Cote D'Ivoire. Here's what the back of the label says: Then the label describes each of the 8 single estates. I was most intrigued by the Chuao, which was described as: "From Venezuala reigning country of great cocoas, undedniably Nr. 1 in quality. The king of kings of cocoas with a powerful and warm flavor." Of course, TBC didn't carry this one. Of the six they did carry, I automatically nixed the Madagascar, Equator and Trinite, as I tend to shy away from the fruitier, banana-y, or "sunshine" (as described by Bonnat) flavors. I prefer darker, deeper and more earthy chocolates - leaving the Venezuelan Bonnats. So, I decided on the Hacienda el Rosario. It's described as: "Suberb Venezuelan cocoa, with plenty of delicate perfumes, while powerful and sensible, it will designate the connoisseurs from the amateurs." Well, now if that's not throwing the gauntlet! I've gotta take a picture of it before I eat it, so I'll report later on whether or not I've found something worth $8.99 and for enduring the painfully snobby and clueless service at TBC.* When I asked one of the staff members about their chocolates, specifically the Bonnat, he said that he was very familiar with them, in a not-so confident way. When I asked him what he thought about the Hacienda el Rosario, he said that I he wouldn't recommend it because it was rose-flavored. I asked him what made him think it had a rose-infusion. He pointed out that the label clearly said (Hacienda el) "Rosario." As a dear acquaintence (from this site) once aptly put it, "I didn't just fall off the turnip truck." Well, I almost did (just fall off the turnip truck) out of shock. I don't know why, but I ventured to ask which Bonnats, since he had tried them all, he liked best. He hedged, then pointing seemingly randomly - he liked the Equateur and the Trinite. When asked what he liked about them, he said they were the "most chocolate-y-tasting." That was all he could give me. I paid for the bar and left.

You know I gotta to ask - what flavor ice cream did the li'l man have?

Sooo... aren't we the lucky one! Glad to hear they improved on the goat cheese-green bean salad. Last, and only time, I had it, it was as you described for your first time - tepid and a creamy cake of goat cheese-bacon-green-fried onions. Will have to try the *shockingly* good (and cold) kind!! Could the mushrooms have been enoki? Or were they even teenier?