ulterior epicure

The Kendall Colleges School of Culinary Arts is the only formidable culinary education center I can think of right now. Any other eGulleters? I've also suggested the Jean Banchet Foundation as a springboard? U.E. [Edited to add: Why does it have to limited to an existing organization? I suppose as joiei points out, it might make it more feasible... but certainly, I don't see why a Chicago chefs couldn't band together to put on and independent event, perhaps a "Chicago Presents" food event? Perhaps, in the spirit of the James Beard Foundation, to raise money for aspiring culinary students?]

Thanks Patrick. If I do find or buy raw, is it feasible to "roast" them myself (oven)? Or is this something that requires a special roaster (like coffee)? U.E.

1. What's the difference between "roasted" and "raw" cocao nibs? I'm almost positive that the roasted ones are the ones used in (edible) desserts. If so, are roasted what I would buy for use in home-made desserts (either as a garnish or a bake-in ingredient)? 2. Can anyone suggest a reliable, yet affordable online vendor? Thanks! U.E.

In general, the darker and more bitter the better: For nibbling: Plantations 100% studded with roasted cacao nibs. For noshing: Valrhona 90% - has a nice deep wine lingering flavor. I prefer it Michel Cluizel (too nutty), Vinchy (too woody and grainy), or Scharffen Berger (too pasty). In desserts: At least 80%, if possible, and with a dash of cacao nibs. Favorite "hybrid:" "Red Heat" by ChocoVosges Haute lVosges Haute Chocolate (Although I have to admit, I wish it were darker (it's 55%). Also, admittedly, I don't eat a lot of "hybrids"). Most memorable experience: Black truffle truffle - that's right, dark chocolate ganache infused with black Perigord truffles. OHMYGOSH... it was GREAT!! U.E.

Sorry if this overlaps with a previous post - but I haven't read upstream far enough to see if anyone has posted about this Food Network show in the past week. Tomorrow night, (Saturday, Feb. 18), the Food Network is doing a show all about Mario Batali and the prepping and opening of Del Posto. 9pm ET/PT. U.E.

[re: onion rings] i'm much more of the beer-battered persuasion... although i could changed by a more tempting offer - if that's to be had. u.e.

we await your report!! u.e.

That's why I left it blank. I hope someone posts about some that they're excited about. ← as did i... so i'm not alone? sigh... i haven't had a good onion ring in YEARS... u.e.

A certain truffle that is always in season told me that around 20 percent of the dishes changed including some new serviceware. He can expand on that on that further. ← mr. truffle, please speak up, as i'm planning a visit very soon... and if the menu hasn't changed significantly, then i shall abide a little longer... u.e.

great thought jwest, but i think it's already been thunk... here... u.e.

re: my post from up-thread. thanks to moosnsqurl and chapin, i've got a new place to try!! blue nile? u.e.

I've been thinking the same thing. After all, why should we let NY have all the fun? Seriously, though, why couldn't we (I don't exactly who "we" are) have some kind of a "Chicago presents" type of event? Perhaps the Jean Banchett organization might be an appropriate/possible starting point? Let's bring the forum to the Mid-West for once!! I think it would do a lot to not only spotlight Chicago as a national (if not world) presence in the restaurant industry, but also do wonders for the Mid-West palate. U.E. [Edited to add: Ron - perhaps this should be split off into another separate forum?]

There's no brunch menu listed on the website anymore: http://www.evetherestaurant.com/apps.htm It is sad. Their Cuban Reuban sandwich was one of the best things I've ever eaten. ← actually - there's a loop that get's you there - go to the wine bar menu - at the bottom, it give you the option of brunch menu!! that's why i thought they still offered it. u.e. ← It seems like a telephone call is in order. ← tammylc. alas, the brunch at eve is, indeed, no more... u.e.

"poued?" u.e.

i've heard scharffen's been acquired by hershey's... any news on how it might/might not be affected by the "new management?"

so am i, and i find this "comfort/trust" in his blog format (based on his first two posts - so that's a rather weak claim, i'll admit.). regardless, my hope, pleasure and loyalty in following/trusting a restaurant critic (or any critic, for that matter) is really based on the level of intimacy and rapport that the critic is able to build with me - as a diner, but more importanly as a person... up until now, imo, bruni's reviews and write-ups have felt detached - as if he's holding himself at arm's length from me (i can only speak for myself). i feel like i'm reading "book reports" rather than vignettes rather than anecdotes. there may be a vast readership out there who are of the "bookish" type. i'm not. i'm not so sure that it's a matter of "learning" something new. rather, i think bruni's blog has (again, admittedly in its infancy), made a step towards building that rapport with the critic that i am looking for. if i've learned one thing from his blog - it's that he can be intimate - offer me a anectdotal aside, book reports notwithstanding. of course, this is not to say that his blog is day to his reviews' night, but there is something different to the approach he takes in his informal blog. i believe it and feel it (an most decidedly appreciates it), when he writes in yesterday's post that his blog intends to: "To provide, in something closer to real time, a sense of what’s being served in the city’s newest, oldest, most delightful and most frustrating restaurants and of how those restaurants are serving it. To flag trends and, less often and more selectively, flog underachievers. To report moments of real significance and incidents that just happened to be interesting. To keep a journal, and to keep the tone of that journal light, casual, accessible." This "invitation to the table" is much more along the lines of what I enjoyed about the more intuitive and familial writing style projected by his predecessors Reichl, and to some degree, Sheraton. personally, i disagree. but to a large extent, i've already said so up-post. i'm not a book report reader (not to diminish or disparage your own tastes and wants with that characterization). facts are great. but, personally, it's not necessarily the color of the curtains, the feel of the pillows, nor the presentation or even the taste of the food alone that makes or breaks a dining experience. rather, a large majority of my dining memories, in fact, the most impressionable ones, are about how these factors in concert contributed to that euphoria, or lack of, upon departure or that lingers in the morning, week or even year, after... no, bruni doesn't quite accomplish this in his blog... yet... but he certainly has come nowhere close in his regular reviews. sheraton, and certainly reichl have demonstrated their ability to do this in a paragraph, or even in a mere sentence. not i - yet. but i'm willing to give him a chance... regardless, he (anybody) can gain my trust given the write level of intimacy and intuitive connection. even though i don't know her, i feel like i grew up with reichl. it didn't matter whether she was in a hole in the wall, or at a worthy four-star, she justified her response and judgments through gathered life-experiences that she was able to convey. a reader, like me, may not agree or have like tastes, but always leave her readings nodding and thinking to myself - yeah, i get it - i understand why this restaurant is a one/four star for ruth reichl. with bruni - he often alienates me from the first sentence and after being lost through a i don't know that the blog necessarily serves as a "preview" to "formal review." maybe we should take him at face value and just simply read these as he purportedly intends - as extra notes that he's not able to give adequate editorial consideration in the publication proper. do we really expect one person, one mouth and one stomach to eat and write up more than one review a week? moreover, would we want him/her to? for me, that would detract from the perceived trustworthiness of their reviews/opinions. given that he eats and thinks about food almost 24/7, i consider (and expect) his blog to be, literally, a spill-over of his "stream of dining conscience." does it necessarily have to? like i said, it may, it may not. but what it does do, at least for me, is afford insight into frank bruni... and uncracking that code will hopefully lead to a better understanding of his approach on a broader level. look, in the end, i'm not trying to elevate the ny times restaurant editorial to a philosophic level, or scrutinize bruni (or any other writer) with an abstract "touchy-feely" analysis. i'll get off from my soap-box now. i'm tired. in the end, i'll know when frank bruni, or any other restaurant critic has gained my trust and loyalty. i think bruni's blog is his first step toward meaningfully contacting me.

that's disheartening...

I missed out on the duck and cherries. I was referring to his smoked sturgeon with fennel, pickled asparagus, dill, fingerling potatoe with caviar and cream amuse at the Share Our Strength charity dinner at one sixtyblue last May. [Edited to enable link.]

welcome simon! wow - sounds like you'll have your hands bellies full for quite some time!! i'll be at alinea just before you, so i'll be curious to hear how your experience compares! cheers! happy eating and travelling. u.e.

In the interest of streamlining thread-start-ups, I've taken the liberty to move ron's comments from last year's Jean Banchet Awards over here for comment. . . . and from Deborah Pankey, food editor at the Suburban Daily Herald: =R= ← 1. What ever happened to Jacky Pluton's multi-faceted and established career? I heard that he departed from Nara (in Omni Orrington Hotel - or whatever it's called now) although he still has his original eponymous restaurant in that Evanston? 2. Anyone have a clue as to where McMahon is off to next? Re: this year's award recipients. I've had the pleasure of enjoying P. Virant's cooking once - at a charity benefit. He prepared the amuse, so I'm sure that it's not representative of his skills or creativity. I've been really curious as to what he's doing out at Vie in Western Springs (a little far off for me when I pass through Chicago on short stays - but would be willing to make a pilgrimage giving the right prompting). Any eGer's out there who have recent experiences to share? U.E.

mywhitedevil. Thanks much for your report. Columbia, the few times I have been, has mostly been a drive-by phenomenon along I-70 between larger cities... so I haven't spent much time (okay, really only about thee or four times) eating there. Thanks for putting this on my radar. Ulterior Epicure. [Edited to strike a sentence that was ignorantly asked; admittedly, I read through your comments rather quickly and haphazardly.]

wow - that is an impressive crowd. i've had the fortune of trying creations from all of the winners except lulu's and calihan catering... all truly deserving winners! i have never heard of this award - is this a first annual, or has it been a long tradition that i'm just clueless about?

For the first time in a long time Frank has done something to cheer about. Obviously we're going to have to see what he writes about, but this gives him the opportunity to comment much more in "real time." It's a welcome change. And the first few blog entries are better written than his articles for print.. ← I agree, it's much more intuitive and intimate - I like the style here much more. But, we shall see how it develops. Ulterior Epicure.

Frank's blog!

There's no brunch menu listed on the website anymore: http://www.evetherestaurant.com/apps.htm It is sad. Their Cuban Reuban sandwich was one of the best things I've ever eaten. ← actually - there's a loop that get's you there - go to the wine bar menu - at the bottom, it give you the option of brunch menu!! that's why i thought they still offered it. u.e.