ulterior epicure

This may be premature, but I read somewhere that a location for the new Le Cirque has already been decided on. Any word about anything concerning its re-incarnation? u.e.

Ahhh. Right. Agreed. u.e.

That was kind of the point I was making. Generally, restaurant investors are just that: investors. They expect a return. They aren't funding somebody's vision. They're seeking a profit. I can imagine a different model. I can imagine a chef with a significant cult following -- like, say, Paul Liebrandt -- attracting a bunch of rich followers to bankroll him irrespective of investment return. But I don't know that it's happened yet. ← Maybe Grant Achatz at Alinea? What about S. Starr's little bevy of chefs - Morimoto? Alfred Portale at Striped Bass in Philadelphia? Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of these. u.e.

Despite the ramblings, I guess that brevity is still the soul of wit. u.e.

Sneakeater, You're post (excerpted below) reads like a Supreme Court ruling!! I join Sneakeater in concurring in the first part of ckkgourmet's post and respectfully dissenting in the second. ckkgourmet. Your points are all very well taken. Thanks for that thoughtful post with great observations. I will concede the following: 1. I may not be as familiar with Dufresne's "philosophy" or approach to food as you and others. Maybe I would have appreciated his food more if I did... 2. I don't think that my visit was plagued by an "off night" in the kitchen. I do know that Dufresne was not in. That being said, I don't fault any of the chefs. As I noted, the meats were all excellently prepared. Also, as I stated, I thought that all of the accompanying items, by themselves, were very thoughtful and ranged from good to very good. For these reasons, I suspect that my disappointment of WD-50's cuisine (at least, what I sampled) stems from a deeper fundamental disagreement in tastes. edited to add: As I stated upthread: 3. I will agree, as you accurately note, that tastes, preferences and appreciations can/do shift. Certainly, I will be the first to admit that my palate has grown more sophisticated, exponentially, over my many meals. I will also be the first to insist that my palate is ever-evolving. While I can't say that I've grown to like anything that I didn't before (which I can hardly count on two hands), I have certainly come to discover and appreciate different combinations that I never thought would work well together. However, where I disagree with your post has been articulated, very well by both by "fellow bretheren," Pan and Sneakeater (at least, as of the last post of his that I've read ). 1. As Sneakeater noted, food should "taste good," where as visual arts doesn't have to eye-appealing or audio art has to "sound" good in order to be appreciated. These two forms of art can operate at a more intellectual level without compromising the appreciation of it. True, there can be a (very) cerebral element involved in eating that can enhance an experience - but when it all comes down to it, you could blindfold me and stick the most far-flung combinations of food in my mouth and I can tell whether I like it, dislike it, or am indifferent - regardless of the ingredients. You can explain why you decided to combine these ingredients all you want - but, in the end if it doesn't taste good, your intentions/motivations/philosophy won't win over my tastebuds. 2. ... ... 'nough said...3. Re: revisiting WD-50. I haven't written Dufresne off. I have met larger disappointments in my dining days. In fact, I don't think I've ever completely written any one chef or restaurant off. But, as my fellow Pan notes, there are some borders that frame my dining capabilities... namely time, money and, of course, calories. If I'm going to spend my resources - especially the precious calories, on dining out, I will, of course, try to maximize the experience. My admittedly one encounter with WD-50 certainly did not encourage me to make such an investment anytime soon. The reality is that as much I try, I only get to hit NYC a few times a year. There are far too many places I want get to and only so many slots available. Yes, given a wide-open schedule and budget, I could certainly see myself revisiting Dufresne's cooking... but as for adding it as a regular must-do is something else. I guess it's nice to see a Modigliani or Duchamp in a museum, but I wouldn't bother hanging one in my house... you might, and that's fine. Upshot: I don't discount Dufresne's creativity and talent. Certainly his following and success indicates that he has plenty of both. Although I respect him and his craft, I'm just not a fan... at least yet... Or can they? I'd be interested in knowing how many chefs acquire "patrons" with big bucks who will back-up their restaurant aspirations. After all, cardinals and one emperor employed Mozart and Michelangelo had his popes... u.e.

Me too... As you know, doc, I was particularly excited to try WD-50. Our party tried a number of starters and main courses. We were so disappointed that we just passed on desserts (was that a mistake? ). In general, the meats were extremely fresh and excellently prepared. What was disastrous were the accompaniments that came with the meats. They weren't necessarily bad by themselves - but together on the plate, it was just discordant. I think the most offensive part were the consitancies of some of these side items. I'm rarely put off by textures, but Dufresne seems to really be into what I call "pastes" or "babyfoods" - pureed and reconstituted foods that just didn't work for me. Starters Pickled Beef Tongue: The pickled beef was very tasty and the most tender tongue I've ever had. In fact, one could easily mistake the tongue for soft prosciutto. Unfortunately, everything else on the plate was just poorly matched (for my palate). First, can anyone tell me what is so astounding about fried mayonnaise? I've read rave reviews about the fried mayonnaise - I just don't get it... what's so special? Second, if anyone has had the pickled beef tongue starter, can you tell me what was the dark-coloured paste? It was deep and sweet - I want to say figs or prunes? It wasn't bad, but didn't quite work with the fried mayo and tangy beef tongue. Third: I didn't get the "onion strudel" - I couldn't figure out if that was the little assembly of translucent little gelatin crumbles and or whether it was the dark paste (which didn't taste like onion strudel at all). Octopus: The octopus was succulent. It had been confited and then grilled. The celery pesto it was served with was rather flavorless - unnoticeable. Also, there were curls of pineapple carpaccio that had been carmelized. These were good on their own - but didn't work with the dehydrated crystals of tuna and Marcona almonds. Just didn't work. Hangar Steak Tartare: This appetizer had the most potential. Indeed, the pickled Asian pears and the Bernaise ice cream were all acceptable accompaniments... but... unfortunately, I found the hangar steak to be a poor choice of cut of meat to serve tartare style. Although it wasn't unbearably tough, it was tougher and more stringy than I like my tartares. The smooth creaminess of the Bernaise ice cream the crispness of the pears were frustrated by the chewy meat... boo! Here, the flavors were there, the textures didn't work. Main Courses Ocean Trout: OHMYGOSH silky fish. As I had posted in the comments on my flickr site, the fish was so tender that I wondered whether it had been prepared sous vide... But, since that preparation is banned in NYC ( ), I assumed not. I don't know how they prepared this fish, but it was in an impossible state between raw and rare. WOW. Unfortunately, the two filets sat on a schmear of pita puree (enter: babyfood reference). It was just bad... imagine pureeing pita bread and then serving it cold. I can imagine how one might think it'd be like hummous? It wasn't... Enter also the paste reference: logs of what are billed as "tomato-chickpea." Imagine tomatoe-flavored hummous made into a thick french-fry and then either baked, or more likely fried? Either way, they were served cool and had the consistancy of cooled mushy paste - think tomato-chickpea flavored cold mashed potato. I'll assume that the crispy crouton-like crumbles were the "falafel spices." They were good, and welcomed textural addition since everthing else on the plate was soft or mushy. Beef Sirloin: The cuts of meat were wonderfully done to my medium-rare liking. Unfortunately, this dish was injured the "incidentals" on the plate. Wilted water spinach was a treat - except it was unsauced/unseasoned and therefore bitter. Compounding the bitterness was a "whipped horseradish," which despite its name, was not what imagined - a whipped cream version of horseradish sauce... rather it was bitter foam of horseradish - without any flavor but bitter. IMO, it could have used more flavor. The only splash of flavor on the dish beside the meat was a "red pepper tart." This was an unfried/unbaked version of the tomato-chickpea logs on the Ocean Trout dish. Two slabs of the cold cream/paste came with two savory shortbread-like crackers. Although I appreciated the sweetness of the red pepper flavor (at least there was some flavor, unlike the rest of the items), the consistancy was actually gross. Skate: Again, the meat was EXCELLENT. In fact, I have never had a cut of skate so thick as this one. And, the rectangle of fish was beautifully cooked and well-seasoned. But, here again, Dufresne does wrong by a facial-cream-like eggplant-raisin puree... that tasted of eggplant and slightly of raisin... a horrible combination that just didn't work with the fish. All of us left it untouched after a tiny sampling. Dufresne's reconstituted logs showed up again on this plate - this time derived from "fried rice." These logs affected more of a steak fry-like form - but were limp and not crispy on the outside at all (I don't know if there supposed to be). Also, these tasted nothing of fried rice - in fact, these did taste like lumpy cold mashed potatoes. Pasty. The other winner on the plate besides the fish was a fat beautifully grilled cut of king oyster mushroom. Maybe I was mixing flavors and elements that weren't supposed to be... But, overall, I was really turned off by the combinations that did happen, for one reason or another. Either "eating instructions" were not communicated correctly, or the dishes were just not to my (nor my companions') palate's liking, I'm sorry to say that WD-50 was a disappointer... Upshot: All of the meats were excellent and tasty - but, unfortunately, there were too many wrongs to out-do these rights... Nearly all of the accompaniments fell flat or were distasteful - in texture and/or flavor. I just remember the meal as being too "flavor-messy." You know where to find the pictures... doc, you're right, it seems that we're "ships passing in the night" with regard to meals!! I'd be really curious to eat with you now! I bet it would make for one interesting experience.... Although, didn't we agree on at least one restaurant??? Sushi Yasuda? u.e.

Everytime I get a little notice in my inbox that someone has posted to this forum, my heart does a (hopeful) little skip... This is all cruel teasing... u.e.

You devil! I just visited the website and read the description... it sounds like one of the most pleasant ways to have a heart attack! YUMMY! I'll have to make sure I visit Taylor's Refresher after TFL!! u.e.

Sorry, "TMI?" u.e.

Yeah, well things don't always go as one hopes... Although, the way things turned out, I'm glad I saved my wallet the grief... u.e.

Wow, that's really a thoughtful reflection of your personal experience. Thanks for that observation. I don't know what cerebral and sensual mean to you. I would say that the his dishes were very sensual to me... the presentations and combinations seemed almost too-strange to be cerebral... but unfortunately, they fell flat on, and in many instances offended, my palate. Hmmm... that's very interesting.u.e.

We ordered a la carte. Well, when I was there, I did notice that his popular "pickled beef tongue with fried mayonnaise" was still on the menu... Odd can be very good if it is very good. The menu items we had were odd - in a bad way... but to each his/her own... u.e.

I'm back from WD-50... I'm sad to say I was terribly bored (oh, boy, I'm hearing protests and hate letters already )... All of the meat preparations were excellent. But, everything that accompanied the meats ranged from interesting to awful... I didn't care for the pasty "French-fry"-like logs of reconstituted foods... For me, the flavors were really just off - the combinations just clashed. I was really looking forward to WD-50, and my (admittedly one) visit has left me deflated. Maybe it was just the menu items we tried? I'm still really wanting to like this restaurant as much as everyone else has... u.e.

Interesting... hadn't thought of it in this way. u.e.

Ahhhh... much more helpful. Thanks! u.e.

Explanation, please? ...never been. u.e.

Wow. Was it worth it? For that price, you could comfortably do Masa... have you been? Have you been to S.Y.? If so, how would you compare the experiences between K and S.Y.? u.e.

1. Didn't make it to Kee's or Pierre Marcolini... but I'm having some of the latter's truffles sent to me... I've heard their origins are particularly good. I'm mostly intruigued by the fact that he makes his own couvertures. Can't wait to try his Champagne truffles as well! 2. La Maison was pretty good... I was especially disheartened on both visits that they were out of Champagne truffles... On the other hand, the Canelle and the Othello were stand-out favorites. Service ranged from personable and kind to affected and impatient... and the store was empty!! One big winning point for La Maison is that they let (me) customers try their truffles... which I thought was rather generous. I think their prices were reasonable too - about $1.40 per piece. They're small, but I would argue, perfectly sized. Oh boy, and they had fresh macarons!! 3. I visited Richart as well. The service was nice, but a little affected - very knowledgeable. The prices were steep - $2.30 per piece - but they're bigger than La Maison's. I have a few waiting to be eaten... will probably break into them either tonight or tomorrow... will report back later... hopefully P.M.'s will arrive soon! u.e.

Yes, and um, something like that. They did use coconut oil, and many have stopped after they published that a bag of popcorn contained three times the calories as a Big Mac - or something obscene like that. Doesn't the inside steam and the water accumulate on othe plastic wrap and then drip down into the pocorn to make it all soggy? Furikake is a Japanese seasoning with salt and dried seaweed as the main ingredients. It's uber yummy on rice, pocorn - basically anything starchy - even on meats - especially fishes. Method for combining government-issued 5lb. block of cheese with popcorn? Oh yes, a common problem around our house during popcorn sessions... I'm talking serious cookie-monster cram-your-face mess... It ain't pretty - but it's good.u.e.

This is obscene!! What were you eating? Gold? Platinum? Were you downing diamond sashimi? u.e.

So, I'm a little confused. Can you explain this "croquette" a little more? Do you mean that the flourless chocolate was breaded and deep-fried? Was it in the shap of a ball? Or was it thin and in the shape of a hash brown a la McDonald's? u.e.

Yikes! That's awfully steep!! Was that strictly sushi/sashimi or did it include cooked courses? I'll wait for your full write up... Also wanted to add that I'm back from Yasuda and *glowing.* I'm so thrilled that I decided to go back! My friends and I sat withi Yasuda, and like last time, had about 20+ pieces of sushi each. I out-lasted my companions and doubled back for a couple of my favorites - namely uni. Although I wasn't really presented with anything that unfamiliar, I was pleased as punch to have some of the "regulars" - as they're not just "regular" when cut and served by Yasuda. The fish are fresh, the portions perfect and the seasoning all very thoughtful. I hardly used my soy/wasabi. An order of ankimo was stellar and a must! I think it's going to have to be a mandatory reservation for me everytime I'm in that neighborhood! u.e.

Aaaa, you win some, you lose some. u.e.

Hi. Just wanted to let you know that I've posted my recent meal at Emily's Restaurant in Northville on my flickr account. u.e.

Is that "Alfredo sauce" on those ravioli? u.e.