wd~50 review: photos on blog: http://chefboysfoodandwineblog.blogspot.co...comfort_26.html There are times when you demand comfort food in this hectic city. After a stressful week or a long day – you just may have a hankering for, say, the Pork Chop at Little Owl. Or Scott Conant’s polenta with mushrooms and truffles at L’Impero (I wonder if Michael White left this on the menu still – most likely no. ) When I’m really stressed – the chu-toro scallion roll at Soto gives me a heady feeling of pure elation – it makes me forget all my troubles, forget all my past. I go downtown. Anyway - there’s a great thread on eGullet about New York’s best dishes here. Read it, and don’t be a lurker. (Wow, I love hyperlinking!) wd~50 is not a comfort food kind of place. It is about being playful, whimsical – even straight up cheeky with your food. Don’t go to wd~50 if you are exhausted, if you are starving, if you seek comfort. To dine at wd~50 is to experience high cuisine, high art, without pretense or snobbery. You wouldn’t go to MoMA if you really wanted to stay in, watch Zoolander, and order a pizza. wd~50’s flavors are clean, pure, and explosive – and the presentation is more minimal-fabulous than anywhere else in Manhattan – and that is saying something. Service is honest, although extremely familiar (our waitress/server even told us a story of the lone line-cook at wd~50 who didn’t go out and get coked up with the rest of the cooks and he felt like an outsider). If that isn’t Michelin starred service ladies and gentlemen, I don’t know what is. There was an Eater post on the wd~50 bread recently. I love this bread. It’s a flat bread – salty and crisp, light and airy. But more importantly – would a French roll be totally out of place? Of course it would. I am giving this newfangled interpretation of bread service a standing ovation. There were many courses to follow – 8 savory plus dessert. A few courses in, Jerry and I decided that of course we might as well add on the 5 course dessert tasting (when in Rome they say!). Ridiculous. A cavalcade of dishes. The “Pizza Pebbles” is a new dish on their menu if I can recall correctly. Do you remember Pizza Combos when you were a kid? Or maybe even last Tuesday when you saw them at the deli and you thought they might be a wonderful pairing with your turkey sandwich? They’re delicious. And so was this dish – and the minimal-fabulous was already beginning. There were little balls of pepperoni dough lined on the plate, while more pebbles of a sort of tomato-creamy puree sphere interspersed between them. Dehydrated shiitake flakes were spiked in the spheres, and to round out this Italian flavor profile (pepperoni, tomato, cream, mushrooms) – micro basil garnished the spheres. But it totally tasted like Pizza Combos. The real effect of this dish, however, was to put a smile on your face – to give pleasure. Unfortunately too many chefs in this town have forgotten that to give pleasure from cooking is what this whole thing is really all about. And what tasting menu would be complete without a foie gras course? Foie is integral to fine dining. It is about opulence, luxury, experiencing something rare. But mostly it is about fat. So foie can either be served hot or cold. When hot, it is always crosshatched and seared (hopefully a sizeable 3-5 ounce piece). When cold, it is usually served as a tourchon and sliced into that fabulous hockey puck size fatty-heavenly disk garnished with toast and fruit. Not at wd~50! Which is why they call this dish “Knot foie.” It’s not (knot?) foie that you’re used to. It’s also tied in a knot. And of course you canknot have foie without fleur de sel for crunch, saltyness, and punch. Instead of cherries or some fruit compote made from huckleberries or rhubarb or something from the greenmarket of that nature – this foie is accompanied by little orbs of a fruit gel (I believe apricot). And there were crunchy nutty garnishes as well which provided the well needed textural contrast, as you can see here they are resting on the knot. This dish was knot something I’m going to forget anytime soon. Next was a wd~50 classic – the Beef Tongue with Fried Mayo. wd~50 is a Lower East Side restaurant – by far the most serious and accomplished of all the LES restaurants. I’m not going into a history lesson for you readers out there, but before the gentrification of this neighborhood (Whole Foods, Thor, sad frat boys and sorority sluts) – it was ethnic. And as foodies – we all know that where there is an ethnic community, there is great ethnic cuisine. You probably have a 70 year old Jewish grandmother down your hall who still enjoys a good beef tongue sandwich from time to time. I know I do. So this dish is an homage to the Lower East Side, to Jewish-American cuisine – and I can guarantee you that this dish is knot going anywhere (hopefully Russ & Daughters won’t either). The tongue is, to be expected, meaty, salty, and delicious. The Fried mayonnaise is an experience – and it tastes exactly what you think it would taste like – warm mayo, but with a firm exterior holding it all inside a cube of fatty-goodness. There is romaine flecked on the tongue as well, and a painstakingly perfect brunoise (that’s BROON-WAZZ, not BRUN-WAH) of romaine to the side. A tomato molasses on the left provides a jammy sweetness to counterpoint the saltyness of the tongue. Good stuff. Moving on, as you have probably heard, Wylie plays with food presentations. Many chefs reinvent classic pairings (Mac & Cheese, peas & carrots, PB&J, lamb & mint, etc etc) – Wylie reinvents presentation. He used to have a dish that looked like a sunny side up egg - but the egg white was played by a gelled coconut milk concoction and the yolk was played by something yellow and runny and definitely not egg yolk. The surf clam dish does this as well – as you can see those aren’t watermelon seeds but a fermented black bean paste (which is damn tasty) shaped in their form. The chewey surf clam, the sweet and crisp watermelon, the garlicy pungency – everything worked. More importantly, this dish started as an idea, an original idea, and from Asian flavor themed concept to execution to tasting – it was a success. Next was “Lamb belly, black chickpea, cherried cucumber.” It wasn’t exactly memorable, it was okay. Look for yourself. Probably the only miss of the evening. Then desserts. I don’t a clear memory of all of them (I was starting to feel like I had eaten some LSD and I was drugged on this tasting menu at that point). Second up was “Fried butterscotch pudding, mango, taro, smoked macadamia”. Very delicious. This one is “Yuzu, shortbread, spruce yogurt, pistachio.” A play on things green. And I have a love affair with yuzu – the sexy and unmistakable trendy Japanese citrus. Next I believe this is “Local strawberries, pandan, popcorn sorbet.” “Creamsicle, rooibus, squash, orange blossom.” And finally, “Soft chocolate, avocado, licorice, lime.” I really loved these desserts – so many intense flavors – like distilled down versions of the original ingredients in so many unexpected combinations. I love that rooibus flavor – and while I normally enjoy it in a hot tea on a cold winter night – rooibus is really yummy as a foam or a sorbet. Alex Stupak is really doing beautiful stuff, and more often than not, his combinations are effective and truly delicious. The Textures, presentation, temperature, creativity and originality were brilliant and refreshing. This is daring dessert. You may not enjoy any of them. You may try them and your impression may very well be, “Eh.” But I thought they were awesome. The wine list was small, but carefully selected. We enjoyed a 1995 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay – which was a showstopper. American Chardonnay at the high end should be aged – when you are lucky enough to find one, buy it! Old American Chardonnay is an altogether different beast. With the age – the wine produced lanolin, earthy, minerally and funky aromas – a perfect pair for Wylie’s food. I don’t know where they found this as I’d surely be stocking my Eurocave with a case if I could find it. I believe Kalin cellars releases their American Chardonnays aged like this as well. So – go to wd~50, do the tasting, enjoy the whimsical and playful creations. See if you like this molecular cuisine. Wylie does something spectacular here, and it’s much cheaper than a flight to Barcelona and a dinner at El Bulli. But if you’re starving, get some take out Chinese.