LAZ

These are some of my favorite things at Quartino, too; I love the way they're served, and the little dishes of house-made condiments that come with them. This surprises me. That certainly hasn't been the case when I've been there. I mean, these fries are blander than say, fried potatoes, but they taste pretty much like polenta (aka cornmeal mush) to me. I'd suggest you somehow got a bad batch, but I can't imagine what you could do to make polenta more flavorless than it is naturally -- that is, subtly corn-y. Maybe I just like hot crunchiness better than you do. My favorite thing about Quartino is probably its hours -- there aren't many places in town where you can get food like this after midnight (and it's much quieter late at night). Some other things I enjoy that you might want to try are the cipollini Modenese, baby onions braised in balsamic vinegar; the grappa-cured salmon; the bigoli with duck ragu; and the Tuscan sausage, which is also house-made. I also like the house wines, which are a terrific value. Too bad that the parking's gone up, but $8 is still a few dollars cheaper than most places in that part of town and the valet stays on duty till closing time.

Leaf lard is the pure fat from around the kidneys of a pig. Rendered, it's used as shortening for baking. The caul is a thin, lacy, fatty membrane that encases the internal organs of an animal. Pork caul is used for wrapping pates and things like that.

Try these: Gepperth's Market 773/549-3883 http://www.gepperthsmarket.com 1964 N. Halsted St. Chicago Columbus Meat Market 312/829-2480 906 W. Randolph St. Chicago And please report back on where you find it!

I'm not from the Seattle, but I'd be very surprised if you can buy real kosher flank steak. Most kosher butchers in the United States do not sell meat from the hindquarters such as flank steak/London broil, which, conventionally is a cut from below the loin, any more than they sell filet mignon. Some people may confuse "flank steak" with flanken, which are short ribs. And a kosher butcher sometimes calls completely different cuts of meat "London broil." (In fact, if you look here, you can see a kosher butcher offering both "flank steak" and "London broil," but if you click on the close-ups, you can see that a) they aren't the same cut of meat and b) neither is the same cut a nonkosher butcher would call "flank steak." I think that these are actually chuck steaks.)

The ethnic areas reasonable to the Hilton and the Field are Chinatown, Greektown, Pilsen (Mexican) and Bronzeville. (Searches at LTHForum will probably yield more possibilities in these neighborhoods than you want to deal with.) Chinatown is probably the most interesting from a tourist standpoint, if you want to do more than eat. After much experimentation, my personal favorite in Chinatown is Lao Sze Chuan; Three Happiness (the smaller one) is also very good, and at lunchtime you might want to consider one of the dim sum specialists like Phoenix or Happy Chef. In Greektown, I love Greek Islands -- be sure to try the loukaniko -- although Venus, the Cypriot place, is also quite good and Artopolis is fun. I've spent less time elsewhere on the South Side, but many people like Nuevo Leon, which is near the Mexican Fine Arts Center Museum, and Pearl's Place. The South Loop has a number of interesting scattered places as well. For example, if you want to visit Chicago's finest deli, you could go to Manny's. Lao Sze Chuan 312/326-5040 http://www.laoszechuan.com Chinatown Square Mall 2172 S. Archer Ave., Chicago Three Happiness 312/842-1964 209 W. Cermak Road, Chicago Phoenix 312/328-0848 2131 S. Archer Ave., 2nd Floor, Chicago Happy Chef Dim Sum House 312/808-3689 Chinatown Square Mall 2164A S. Archer Ave., Chicago Greek Islands 312/782-9855 http://www.greekislands.net 200 S. Halsted St. (entrance on Adams), Chicago Venus Mezedopolion 312/714-1001 http://www.venuschicago.com 820 W. Jackson Blvd., Chicago Artopolis Bakery Cafe & Agora 312/559-9000 http://www.artopolischicago.com 306 S. Halsted St., Chicago Nuevo Leon 312/421-1517 1515 W. 18th St., Chicago Pearl's Place 773/285-1000 Amber Inn, 3901 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago Manny's Coffee Shop & Deli 312/939-2855 http://www.mannysdeli.com 1141 S. Jefferson St., Chicago (And why I'm spending time writing this, instead of a list for the meal I'm actually going to eat with you, I have no idea. But, of course, we could go to any one of these places or those on that ethnic dinner list instead.)

What about ethnic? Nicer than usual Mexican storefronts with creative cuisine include Fonda del Mar and Sol de Mexico. Palmito is Costa Rican with good food in a pretty room. We've got lots of great Thai places; it's not fancy, but you can't beat the food at Sticky Rice. For a nicer atmosphere, though tamer fare, you might try Ruby of Siam in Skokie. Khan BBQ is hectic, crowded and slapdash, but the tandoor-cooked fare is amazing and cheap and it does have a glorious crystal chandelier. There are some fancier spots on Devon as well. It has no atmosphere but Lao Sze Chuan is terrific. Almost anywhere in Greektown would fit the budget, too. Fonda del Mar 773/489-3748 3749 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago Sol de Mexico 773/282-4119 3018 N. Cicero Ave., Chicago Palmito 773/248-3087 3605 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago Sticky Rice 773/588-0133 4018 N. Western Ave., Chicago Ruby of Siam 847/675-7008 www.rubyofsiam.com Fashion Square, 9420 Skokie Blvd., Skokie Khan B.B.Q. Restaurant 773/338-2800 2401 W. Devon Ave., Chicago Lao Sze Chuan 312/326-5040 www.laoszechuan.com Chinatown Square Mall, 2172 S. Archer Ave., Chicago

Ah, but that's the best part! The contrast between thin, crisp, buttery crust and deep, gooey, cheesy center. My favorite: Edwardo's stuffed pizza with pesto, sausage, mushrooms and garlic.

They are definitely not serving real foie gras. In fact, I called yesterday to ask a question about the "faux gras" and the receptionist misheard me and said sharply, "We don't serve that. It's illegal." I think the audience is people who don't have to save up to dine there, and don't view putting on a jacket as dressing up -- they wear one every day anyway -- but whose rich, thin, fast-paced lives don't allow them to spend several hours on dinner, even if they wanted to eat so much, which they don't. And their secretaries or butlers take care of tedious details like reservations.

The Tru Lounge menu comes from Joel Dennis, Tru's chef de cuisine. Laurent Gras, who is still in New York, created the "faux gras" recipe, which is served in the Lounge only. Gras is a pal of Rich Melman's and Rick Tramonto's and was asked to do this because Tramonto's tied up with the openings of the four new restaurants at the Westin North Shore (which is actually in Wheeling, leaving me pondering whether the "North Shore" and "Greater Woodfield" now meet somewhere around my house). Reservations are required for the lounge as well as jackets for men.

He's still in New York. He's pals with Rich Melman and Rick Tramonto and just created the one recipe for Tru's new lounge, which he was asked to do since Tramonto has too much on his plate right now what with opening four restaurants in the fall in the new Westin in Wheeling, Ill.

The Wall Street Journal had a very good article the other day about a study that showed that unless you consume them along with fat, you can lose the benefits of eating vegetables, since many of the nutrients are fat-soluble. The WSJ piece is subscription only, but here's a fairly good summary.

They are two different things here, as well. Where Chicago excels is in the cuisine of interior Mexico. We are starting to have very good Mexican seafood, as well. Which is not to say you can't find beef enchiladas with red sauce or fajitas; it's just that, compared to the specialties of Puebla and Oaxaca readily available here, the Tex-Mex will often be pedestrian.

I must say the restaurant industry seems remarkably complacent about government meddling in their business. As mentioned here, the National Restaurant Association just extended its contract to bring its annual trade show to Chicago without bringing up either the foie gras ban or the possible trans-fats ban.

By the way, I had a chance to taste the choice steaks (Sterling Silver brand) that Treasure Island is dry aging. Really good for the price. (The Clybourn store is having a seminar on dry aging on Wednesday. http://www.tifoods.com/schedule.htm)

Yes, I can see that would make a difference. Wood and and charcoal can elevate even lower grade steaks to deliciousness, which is why the choice steaks at places like Wildfire and Weber Grill can be a deal. I have to admit that I love steak in nearly all its forms, including Grecian skirt steaks at diners! But there's something about the intense beefy tang of dry-aged steaks that really elevates that form for me.

I can't judge what kind of steaks you eat at home, but I've certainly not had dry-aged steaks like Primehouse's anywhere else in Chicago. Even the few other places that serve dry-aged aren't as good as these. What places do you find equivalent? Certainly not Gibsons! I agree on the side dishes, though. Wondra is fast-dissolving, low protein cake flour. See here and here.

Isn't the third one at 1132 N. Ashland still there?

My source was Maurie Berman. According to him, the dogs are made for Superdawg according to their own recipe, which they keep locked in a vault. As Ronnie said, they are all-beef but not kosher. I spoke to the Bermans about this in person on July 10, 2006. One thing the Bermans corrected me about. Maurie and Flaurie are still very active in the daily operations of Superdawg. Their two sons (both practicing lawyers) and daughter and son-in-law participate, too, but it's clear that the elder Bermans are still very much in charge. Fluky's on Western was not a franchise but a licensee. The Esteses, who have owned the restaurant for eight years, dropped the license. Everything about U Lucky Dawg remains pretty much the same as it was under the Fluky's name, other than some new artwork and a couple of new menu items, such as a Vienna dog with nacho cheese and chopped fresh habanero peppers. Currently, the only free-standing Fluky's is the newly opened Buffalo Grove store, although they are in the process of taking over City Dogs in Wal-Mart stores, starting with the one in Niles. I have eaten at the BG Fluky's and I recommend that if you are looking for a hot dog in that area, visit Wiener Take All across the street. Fluky's does serve decent fried chicken, made according to the process that would be called Broasted if they were using genuine Broaster cookers, but since the signs say something like "pressure fried," I guess they aren't.

In my recent forays into hot dog stands, I've discovered that skinless is gaining -- especially the farther you get from city limits. But also that Vienna's formulation makes for a fairly snappy dog even in its skinless variety, so unless you stop to analyze instead of just wolfing your dog down, you might not notice. Superdawg has its own proprietary recipe. I'm not sure who makes it for them. rockandroller, I believe U Dawg U is out of business. They expanded to the tollway oases, but then something went wrong and I don't think they have any locations left.

The best Mexican meal I've had in a while was at Taquería la Oaxaquena on Milwaukee, a pretty little storefront with carved wood and leather chairs at nine plastic-topped red-cloth-covered tables. We really liked the chunky guacamole, chockful of onion, tomato, chopped lettuce and cilantro; the nopales asados con chile y cebollitas, grilled cactus with green onions and jalapenos; and the enchiladas Oaxaqueno in sweet mole. I also enjoy El Tipico. We usually visit the Skokie location. It's a bit more Tex-Mex than many Chicago Mexican spots, which tend more toward the style of the interior. Try the queso tejano appetizer, a huge and deliciously gooey concoction of melted cheese with sausage, peppers, onions and cilantro, served with tortillas for scooping. My favorite margaritas come from Don Juan's. I've also enjoyed the venison fajitas and the lamb shanks. Taqueria la Oaxaquena 773/545-8585 3382 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago Also: 773/637-8709 6113 W. Diversey Ave., Chicago El Tipico 847/676-4070 3341 W. Dempster St., Skokie Also: 773/878-0839 1836 W. Foster Ave, Chicago Don Juan's for Mexican Food Lovers 773/775-6438 www.urbaneateries.com/donjuans 6730 N. Northwest Highway, Chicago

Great report and pictures, Jason. Glad you enjoyed some of our local treasures. Just a few points of information.... Probably one of the better options there. The sausage pizza features a thick patty spread across the whole pizza, grossly overwhelming other components. Superdawg opened in 1948 and is still operated by its original owners, Maurie and Flaurie Berman (the dogs on the roof are named for them), although their son and son-in-law run day-to-day operations now. You can find the history on their web site. The Superdawg differs from the quintessential Chicago-style dog with a wiener more garlicky than the typical Vienna Beef or Red Hot Chicago frank, a pickled green tomato in lieu of fresh red ones, and no celery salt. Next time, try strawberry. Real fruit. Only if you bring your iPod. The jukeboxes at U Lucky Dawg don't work. Owner Larry Estes says he's unable to find parts. Would that it were true! Alas, plain buns are steadily gaining.A very fine itinerary, though you ought to have continued on down Western for one more stop on the Chicago-food trail, Max's Italian Beef, which has the same owners as U Lucky Dawg, good house-made beef, an unusual and delicious giardiniera... ...and the remarkable "ghetto fries." Lou Malnati's 847/673-0803 www.loumalnatis.com 6649 N. Lincoln Ave., Lincolnwood Superdawg Drive-In 773/763-0660 www.superdawg.com 6363 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago U Lucky Dawg 773/274-3652 www.maxsitalianbeef.com/uluckydawg_menu.htm 6821 N. Western Ave., Chicago Max's Italian Beef 773/989-8200 www.maxsitalianbeef.com 5754 N. Western Ave., Chicago

That's very bizarre, Ronnie. I've never encountered anything like it, either. On the very few occasions when egregious behavior on the part of a server have led me to leave little or no tip, I've had managers agree with me (in such instances, I always explain my actions to someone in management, so that my reasons are clear), but I've never had a manager propose anything like this. And from your account, it sounds as if the problem wasn't with the waitstaff but behind the scenes. Even if the problem had been your server, absolutely the right thing for the manager to have done if she thought anyone on the staff had delivered bad service was to take something off your check or offer free desserts or drinks or something like that. The only thing I can surmise is that she had no authority to do so. Still.... mark922, LOL!

Schuba's! Wow, that's a fascinating item on the list. Has anyone eaten there lately? Tommy, would you comment on the differences you experienced between the grass-fed and regular corn-fed beef? If you want the most "Chicago steakhouse" experience with grass-fed, Harry Caray's will likely give it to you. I think it would be a pity to go to Prairie Grass and order a steak -- not that I don't think they'd do it well, but there are so many more creative options.

In case you missed it, Chicago's aldermen are now looking at another food ban. Chicago Sun-Times: I wonder if the alderman has any idea that this ordinance, if passed, may well promote the use of lard, duck fat, beef tallow, butter and coconut and palm oils. Ironically, most restaurants gave up using such products in the early 1990s, after do-gooder Phil Sokolof, a self-dubbed "cholesterol crusader," took out full-page ads in major newspapers chastising McDonald's Corp. for cooking its famous french fries in supposedly artery-clogging beef tallow. McDonald's obligingly switched to a cholesterol-free vegetable-based cooking fat, despite sacrifices in flavor. But then it turned out that the tasteless hydrogenated vegetable oil was full of trans-fatty acids, saturated fats possibly even more harmful. Who knows what this action may spawn?

Since the start of this thread dates to 2004, I'll comment that last summer, Levy Restaurants, which runs the food concessions at both Chicago ballparks, substantially upgraded its offerings at Wrigley. I only tasted a preview sampling, so I can't say how good they are during actual ballgame conditions, but what I tried was pretty decent. And, yellow truffle, if you're still looking for good corn dogs, you might want to head to Fat Willy's, where they hand dip and fry to order. Fat Willy's Rib Shack 773/782-1800 www.fatwillysribshack.com 2416 W. Schubert Ave., Chicago