Pontormo

I own only one now since the plastic ones got lost or tossed during moves long, long ago. On the wall of my dining room, close to the kitchen hangs a copper lobster. I do not care for seafood mousse. It was purchased for an advanced seminar, "Idea Art," led by one of the Studio Art professors. My semester-long project involved transforming food into works of visual art. (I'm pretty sure I mentioned this before somewhere in eGullet.) I managed to find a tiny crafts store that sold supplies for making sugar eggs: the kind you produce by sealing two half-egg shapes together with piped frosting, then fill with panoramas that are viewed by peering through a decorated peep hole on one side. Once I mastered the egg shape, I decided to mold a peach and turquiose-streaked lobster. I wish I could remember the scene constructed for the interior. I have used the lobster to make desserts as well: a pure white yogurt mold (Gourmet, some time in the 80s), similar to panna cotta, with a raspberry sauce; a chocolate thing with an unfortunately racist name, Negresse en Chemise, which I hope was blunted by transmogrification; and once for a guest allergic to sugar, gluten & dairy products, a cantaloupe lobster with a blueberry-honey sauce.

Klary: I have just gotten around to exploring this thread and have by no means read through it all. Let me say, first, that your skills as a baker really impress me. Second, I should have suspected this from something you initiated long ago to introduce us to unusual vegetables, one of the first threads I read on eGullet. Nonetheless, you have really helped me correct prejudices. All friends returning from research or travel through The Netherlands have ever spoken about were french fries with mayo! I find your own newly acquired, retrospective appreciation for traditional foods a real incentive for learning more about culinary traditions that are unfamiliar to me. It's a kind of personal change in attitude that many of us experience once we have distinguished ourselves from our parents and proven how original and creative we are. The ginger cake featured in the very first entries is something I HAVE to try since I love crystalized ginger; candied ginger in syrup has just started to appear on local supermarket shelves. As someone who adores split pea soup--and celery root--I find your two versions are also inspirational. Finally, though, I have to ask about those intriguing pears that turn red like quinces when cooked. Do you know how wide-spread they are, that is, if they are grown any place other than The Netherlands? What is their official name in Dutch?

I am glad you also have found the same recipe perfect for celebrations (in my case, a friend's acceptance into law school & given the line at the shack at the wharf where fish were cleaned, my cooking companion read Marcella aloud as I gutted the beast and removed the backbone). However, I believe Klary is not as fond of seafood as her husband is and after all this effort, something she would enjoy seems in order. P.S. Did you see the exquisite cakes from last year's event? I suspect the dessert will be splendid.

Lovely! Thanks for feedback on a recipe I have not yet tried.

There is room for THREE more.

P.S. Bessie Smith is seminal to the semiotics of the hot dog. "Hot dog" as a verbal construct is a cultural sign with meaning beyond that which it originally was intended to signify. I.e. etymology does not define the meaning of a word or phrase. The sign is implicated in sex, race, class, national identity, slang ("Hot DAWWG!"), and culinary hegemony (hot dog vs. hamburger). It ain't just processed meat.

Let me put on my glasses, cross my legs and cough ever so slightly into a closed fist. To explore the semiotics of the hot dog, one would debate the nature of the nomenclature. How did the American wiener get its canine name, first of all? Second, how has our understanding of that term developed over time, shifted in different contexts, and so forth?

Chufi: Down in the Italian forum, I am not sure if you've mentioned more than one cookbook you own (Claudia Roden's). Do you have a copy/copies of Marcella Hazan's classic work? She's got a basic recipe for stuffed polenta that Roden might have since it's made in Northern Italy. To prepare the polenta, you make a large batch. For 14-16 people, you would need two batches. Once done, pour the hot mush out onto a wooden or plastic board, making one big oblong shape with dimensions of a lasagne/roasting pan or a gratin dish in your cupboard. When cooled, the cool trick is to use a doubled piece of thread or even dental floss to cut the polenta lengthwise. Marcella says twice, I say, two layers are plenty. Then treat it like lasagna (which, by the way, is amazing with fresh home-made pasta and cooked artichoke hearts, bechamel & Parm, nothing else), slathering on a layer of bechamel, a good ragu Bolognese (see the thread in the Italian forum) that I like to make with reconstituted porcini, and generous sprinkling of Parm-Reg. Repeat on upper surface. I notice you are as fond as I am of fennel. The polenta is excellent with a simple orange and slivered fennel salad. The disadvantage is that this cheap, filling food does not really lend itself to a pastry-shelled appetizer nor a rich, layered cake afterwards. Thus, my initial hesitations. If your party wouldn't mind getting up and playing rugby or hiking in between courses... Now, what does your husband absolutely LOVE that you do too? Is there anyway you could build something biographical out of comfort foods he loved as a child, a wine he associates with a friend at the table, or something he discovered with you on your Honeymoon...?

Yesterday's dinner was a combination of one traditional Piemontese dish as an appetizer, a primo that complements Piemonte's tastes and a liberal translation of something from the Piedmont as a main-course salad: Peperoni ripieni alla Carlina Ricotta gnocchi with butter and sage Petti di pollo in carpione con scarola I used the cookbook that the chef of D.C.'s Galileo wrote on Piedmont's cooking. Like many of his generation in my city, Roberto Donna was influenced by Jean Louis Palladin whose mark was artful sophistication. Therefore, the stuffed red and yellow peppers in Donna's illustration are rather elegant and architectonically erected as three thin glistening columns rising from the plate with an extreme diagonal cut at the top, angled to show as much of the confetti-studded filling as possible. The white china is speckled with differently colored oils and essences with a jaunty little shrub of frisee planted smack in the center. I went for something a bit more down to earth and rolled my roasted red peppers as heftier logs. The stuffing is very much like a Salade Nicoise without the olives, tomatoes or green beans. Italian tuna packed in olive oil, my salt-packed anchovies, a boiled potato, garlic, parsely, capers, hard-boiled egg, etc. are processed with a thin stream of olive oil to make a smooth paste. After the peppers are filled, they're refrigerated for several hours to firm up and allow the flavors to blend. Very light, wonderful textures (a surprise since I love fishy things, but am not a fan of pastes or mousses). I only wish Hathor had knocked on the door, holding a basket of her home-baked grissini. The gnocchi were prepared just because there is a farm nearby that makes excellent ricotta that I like to treat as simply as possible. I didn't want the fresh taste to get lost in an elaborate stuffing...and I love butter and sage. Enough said. Finally, the chicken breast was left over from the chicken I had braised in milk as were the herbs from the Poultry Blend packet (marjoram, rosemary, sage & thyme), something I prefer buying if I have to pay $2.50 for less than a handful of organic sprigs. So, I deboned and pounded it, sliced the scallopine into thin strands and sauteed them in olive oil, sprinkling lots of red wine vinegar over them while still warm so that it would be absorbed. The rosemary and lots of sage was then sauteed with shallots, parsley and garlic after all were minced, then tossed immediately into the bowl with the chicken. S & P, more vinegar and oil. Chilled for a few hours, brought back to room temperature and tossed with lightly dressed escarole. While I didn't fall in love with it as Kramer had predicted, I didn't feel like Batali does about feeding chicken breasts to the dogs either. Perfect for the summer-like weather we're having down here on southern swamp land. N.B. Before we end our survey of Piemonte, I'll mention a few things that I find interesting in comparing this chef's book to that of a wine critic/food writer (Kramer). There are some very useful cooking "tricks" and it's always fun to see what the chef does to seem inventive or creative...even though some might scorn the loss of authenticity. Just one glimpse now: Roberto Donna likes to place a small sformato in the center of a shallow soup plate and present it as a kind of island. Then he surrounds it either with a consomme, maybe with a few submerged croutons, or a more complex broth. Very pretty. Not sure how I'd feel about bechamel clouding up a clear broth, but the turnip sformato in a crema di Arborio scented with truffle oil might not be bad....

Just how telepathic are you, Nathan? Please send vibes out as you consume that thing, please....

Isn't the answer obvious? Given the wonderful dishes you're thinking about, a cassoulet seems in order . Something I've made for larger groups at celebrations is Marcella Hazan's striped sea bass that is stuffed with shrimp, scallops, shallots and herbs. Since you mentioned you'd like to stay away from braises, a good, filling paella or boullabaisse, though for the former, especially, I'd switch to a few interesting tapas, including mushroom if that is a favorite of your husband's. A roast bird (or two for 14) such as a formidably scaled capon deboned by your butcher, then stuffed with interesting things and then cut into pretty slices along with a simple grain or rice dish. Another mainstay for me is a stuffed polenta, though that's hardly elegant.

1) Excellent idea regarding separate threads for each month! I'd like to invite the professional chefs to participate, or contribute comments and suggestions as we move along. 2) As one who wishes to turn to Lombardy next, let me add that I was thinking as a traveller and someone who's visited its cities & knows its cultural history if not its culinary traditions. I would be happy to postpone the region were a F/VG supporter to prove full of conviction. Fruili/Venezia Giulia is a complete unknown for me. I write while consulting Del Conte's Gastronomy (1st vs. rev. ed.) which suggests it also would be a good choice for a wintery month: lots of "poverty" foods such as polenta, good soups & beans. It's also, of course, rich in fish and seafood. Luxury items include the prosciutto di San Daniele and Austrian-influenced desserts. (Were it spring, asparagus; summer, peaches and cherries.)

1) Me, too, on quarterly system. I'm having fun doing the research. 2) I REEALLY would like to get the Bibliography thread established as a database. I have been wishing there were one while learning about Piemonte and think that as we progress from region to region, all our citations are just going to get lost. (Look how long the thread is already and there are 2 weekends & 11 more days left to the month when I know I'll be rushing to make more.) I had been cheer-leading (and nagging and sending PM's) as much as I could. It seems that if a database could be established for Recipe Gullet or images, a simpler version could be made for our needs, and as I've said in that thread, I am sure other regions would be grateful, especially since the Asian fora seem to create many, many cooking projects where a resource such as this would be appreciated. Calling all diplomats, lobbyists...

5 spots remain open.

Another RSVP came this morning. There are SIX remaining spots. P.S. The restaurant is within walking distance of the Rockville Metro station....maybe a ten-minute walk. Click on the link for "H J Shorter" in the original post and scroll down to her message. (The thread is about two Asian grocers. It was on a shopping spree to the places she identified that I spied crowds dining happily and well at Bob's, which she also recommended.)

EEeeuwww ! Mr. Busboy! We're trying to get people INTERESTED. Have some respect for our very pregnant guest....and me since I had a hard enough time seeing calf's tongue wrapped up nice in plastic at Whole Foods last week, as fascinated as I was with all the pig tails and ears viewed while wandering through food stores in Mount Pleasant. I will try ONE body part or sea creature I have never had before, but if I order soup, it will not be the Pig Stomach, Sour Mustard. Now, Busboy* is excused since he's helped me organize the event, but others, please send me a Personal Message to save a space. Do not post RSVP's in this thread. *Incredibly helpful in so many ways. THANKS!!! I would also like to acknowledge the gracious help of H J Shorter who picked up a copy of the menu.

Pick up a copy of Food Lover's Guide to Paris by Patricia Wells.

One reply came in last night. Nine spots remain.

I have to agree about visual appeal. Chufi, I also think your entire meal looks delicious. I have a butcher in the neighborhood who promised to split some bones for me since there's a recipe for the same risotto in Kramer's book that includes beef marrow. I love how much this region uses sage! (The leaf on top of the risotto is a lovely touch.) P.S. In the Food Section of The Washington Post, one of the staff writers published a photograph of this Bagna Caoda set. It is available locally. I am tempted, though I may try to be more resourceful with things I already own.

P.S. Dig your reference to Ang Lee's movie--one of my ABSOLUTE favorites. Cf. the related, ongoing Cook-Off where Tampopo is cited. And, yes, what ISN'T on the menu!!!! Sweet & Sour Pamphlet Bitter Melon with Anchovy Loofah with Dried Baby Shrimp Manila Clams with Ginger Soup Abalo[ne?] in Chicken Soup Seafood Bean Curd Thick Soup Taiwanese Dry Noodle w. minced pork, bean sprouts, chives & marinated egg Hot (Spicy) Beef Stew Noodle Soup Pork & Mustard Noodle Soup (Homemade noodle served in chicken broth w. shredded pork & Szechwan pickled mustard green) Stir-fried Noodle with Clams Fragrant Bean Curd Skin Roll Jelly Fish Sea Snail with Basil Fried Oyster Crispy Soft Shell Crab YsuTsai with Fresh Garlic Edamame w. Baby Shrimp Shanghai Chow Mein Kidney with Sesame Oil and Ginger Sauce Sea Cucumber with Vegetable Rice Sausage Sauteed Baby Short Ribs with Scallion....

I asked if there was beer when I made the reservation, and the woman said, yes, they served it. We both had to repeat ourselves several times in order to make sure everything was in order, but I don't think there was a misunderstanding. The method of payment was a joint decision in consultation with management. It seemed the easiest solution and least verbose way to post the information. However, this is a small group. Personal requirements and health matters, such as pregnancy or a desire to eat only $4 items after buying a new digital camera to document the experience can easily be accommodated, I am sure. I always carry a calculator with me, so.... I will be logging out for the evening as soon as I post this. However, I will be turning on my computer early tomorrow morning. Look for listings from the menu some time in the next couple of days. Please feel free to ask any further questions here...or send your RSVPs.

Thanks for the original link!

Member Organized Event: THE WHOLE BEAST LOOKS EAST Saturday, 4 February, 7 PM Bob's Noodle 66 305 N. Washington Street Rockville, MD 20850 (301) 315-6668 At the end of the month, we will move from the Year of the Rooster to the Year of the Dog. Many of us made New Year's resolutions to eat new things and learn more about food in parts of the world we have yet to explore. This local event provides an opportunity to do both in the company of like-minded eGullet members. Popular with the large Asian community of Rockville, Bob's Noodle 66 also receives high praise from Eve Zibart, former food critic of The Washington Post, and catches the eye of our own DC Foodie and H J Shorter. Its Taiwanese specialties represent a fusion of diverse culinary traditions of mainland China and those of the Japanese who occupied the island. While many of the island's dishes feature seafood, Fergus Henderson would feel very much at home with Spicy Pig Ear, Intestine Pig Blood with Sour Mustard, Duck Tongue with Basil or Ginger Frog Casserole with Bone. Feeling more Charlie Trotter these days? While little is raw, vegetables dominate in a number of soups. There is always bean curd, and of course, stir fries with shrimp or comforting noodles. Please note, though, that the delicious Taiwanese Hamburger is actually pork. Cost: Approximately $25 for two dishes, beer, tax & tip. Appetizers $3-$11; Noodles or Specials $4-$16. Main-course soups average $6. Seafood, $13. Payment: Cash at conclusion of meal. Check to be divided equally. Cap: 10 people, first-come, first-served. RSVP: Via PM to me, Pontormo This event has been organized through the eG Forums by members but is not sponsored by the Society or its eG Forums. The event is open to all participating eGullet Society members, contributors and their guests. By participating in this event, you confirm your understanding and acceptance of the eGullet Events Policy, to which all eGullet Society members have already agreed. Items from the menu will be posted below for your perusal or comments. Feel free to use this thread to ask questions about or discuss the event.

Wow! Your thread on Deadline Eating kind of gave away the answer when Soba posted his styrofoam teaser-shot. It's great to enter these places with you, MizD. I don't know which of the photographs I like the best so far; it's a toss-up among the fridge, door flung open, the sunset, the bird's eye view of a genuine Southern California food co-op and the burger joint. You may have told your story long ago on eGullet, but I plead ignorance. I've grown to appreciate how much Asian foods and cooking are central to your life & wonder if there is more to the tale.

Indeed. But, then, think of the OTHER possible themes to cover for annual explorations! Zucchini & zucchini blossoms for June 2007?