David McDuff
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Posts posted by David McDuff
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Having experienced an extremely disappointing meal in the Bar Room at The Modern on Monday (more later), I would head to Country simply by default....
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I stopped in at the wonderful Pegu Club for the first time this past weekend. Between my drinking companion and me, we enjoyed among other things a "Jamaican Firefly" (dark rum, homemade ginger beer, fresh lime juice) and a "Gin-Gin Mule" (gin, homemade ginger beer, mint, fresh lime juice). Both were served on the rocks in tall glasses. Though ginger liqueur, per se, did not figure in any of their special cocktails, ginger certainly did -- in the form of both ginger beer and candied ginger slices. The floral/spicy flavors of ginger worked well in both the gin and rum based drinks.
I would think this might give you the basis to at least experiment a bit. Not having tried ginger liqueur, I would guess that it will exert a somewhat richer influence on its drinks than did the ginger beer. Enjoy and report back!
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It seems to me that, as long as your flask is made from a non-porous material, a good flush with piping hot water should be all that's necessary. Not much is likely to grow/live in an 80+ proof environment.... I'd be more worried about the lingering flavors or aromas of vinegar sullying the quality of the flask's next fill.
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I stopped into the market early-afternoon this past Tuesday to do some basic provisioning for dinner. Didn't pick up anything terribly esoteric but I did find:
- Very fresh, flavorful and inexpensive shiitakes at Iovines.
- Some RFG applewood smoked bacon at Harry Ochs, cut from the slab with an ideal ratio between flesh and fat, for $4.99/pound.
- And an absolutely perfectly aged and cared for round of Selles-sur-Cher at Downtown Cheese.
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- 1999 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley (9/26/2006)
Of four wines served at a dinner with friends recently, this wine had the curious distinction of vying for the least interesting yet also the most surprising of the night. Least interesting: well, it's negociant Napa Chardonnay, easy to drink but lacking in any real character or distinction of flavor or texture. Surprising: at seven years old, not only was it still holding up well but it wasn't showing any signs of tiredness. The flavors have mellowed to a round, ripe pear and buttered toast combo and the color is hinting at light golden. Balance is fine, with gentle acidity buoying the wine's medium-full weight. - 2000 Ratzenberger Kloster Furstental Riesling Sekt Brut - Germany, Mittelrhein (9/26/2006)
Vintage in and vintage out, this is a long-time favorite of mine. The 2000 is just starting to soften up and really show its fruit and full aromatic spectrum. It benefits from being poured in a regular white wine glass rather than a flute as this serves to put its focus on aroma rather than on its mousse which, not being terribly fine, might be its only real flaw. A great accompaniment to a wide range of foods, including the corn soup with which it was served. Also a good candidate for further bottle aging. - 1994 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (9/26/2006)
The last time I drank a bottle of this must have been a good six years ago. And I'm stymied to put my finger on anything that's changed with the wine since then. In my book, that's not a good thing. While there's plenty of still youthful red fruit, the wine continues to display a green tinge on the mid-palate; the tannins are very soft. While it's held up quite well, it really hasn't gone anywhere with time, aside from some mellowing of its oak flavors, and I doubt that it will do anything other than ride a straight line until it eventually tires out. Pleasurable enough as a simple drink but not really living up to the promise of its vintage nor especially of its AVA. - 1996 Château de Chamboureau Savennières Cuvée d'Avant Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (9/26/2006)
This was anticipated to be the wine of the night and it delivered, albeit in some slightly surprising ways. The main surprise came in the way of a much higher degree than expected of oxidation on the nose. 1996 was theoretically a fantastic vintage for the Chenin Blanc based whites in the Anjou and I had expected a more youthful wine. That said, wines like this can handle some oxidation and still deliver depth and complexity on the palate. This was full of mint, chamomile tea, honey, beeswax and lime oil flavors driven home by penetrating acidity. Though the wine is supposedly a demi-sec (more below) there was barely a hint of sweetness -- one really had to look for it with each sip -- to be found. A perfect accompaniment to the nicely aged round of Selles-sur-Cher with which it was paired. I wish I had more as I'd love to look at it again over the next few years.
Side note: This is one of the more confusing but also technically informative labels I've encountered on a wine from any country. It's not entirely clear as to whether the domaine wants to be known as "Chateau de Chamboureau" or simply by the name of the viticulteur, Pierre Soulez. I've opted for the former. On the front label, it is specified as moelleux with a designation "Cuvée d'Avant," which would seem to suggest a late picking. This is backed up by information on the rear label, although here it is referred to as demi-sec rather than moelleux. The fruit is harvested in two to three selections at a potential alcohol ranging from 14% to 16.5% (finished to 14.3%), with 50% botrytis and 50% partially raisined fruit.
Posted from CellarTracker
- 1999 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley (9/26/2006)
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Might this be much ado about nothing? A minor Philadelphia councilman read about Chicago, tried the same thing, got his day of headlines and two days of letters to the editor and then returned back to obscurity.
As much as I hope you're right, Holly, the success of similar legislation at the city level in Chicago and on a statewide, production-level basis in California makes me fear that the willy-nilly voting public in the US just may let this fly right through as Tony clearly despairs.
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hey mcduff, what do you think?
Well, ok, I'll throw in my two cents. And they'll fall somewhere between wkl's and the ideas from Rogov and RRose. I do think the white beans, bread, tomatoes and the overall heartiness of the dish can carry a red. I do agree with wkl, though, that when serving Tuscan food, why not serve Tuscan wine. I also don't think anything as big, juicy and alcoholic as Zin or a CA Rhône blend is necessary. I'd opt for a Chianti normale (not a Riserva), ideally from the Rufina or Colli Fiorentini districts and, of course, from a good grower.
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At 65% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre, the 2005 iteration of Unti's pink stuff is no longer "Grenache Rosé." Full and round in the mouth, with distinct strawberry and raspberry fruit. Dry but very ripe and sweet fruited. Would be more enticing if not so expensive ($21-ish per bottle). Drink by Spring 2007.
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Robin from Flying Fish stopped by yesterday with a few new brews: Oktoberfish and Hopfish IPA. The Oktoberfish is a well rounded, malt driven, lightly hopped ale. Very drinkable and, as it should be, full of autumnal flavors. Hopfish is not an in your face style as the direct reference to hops in the name often suggests. Rather, it's a bright, crisp IPA, redolent of floral hops on the nose and tantalizingly bitter on the finish while being refreshing and smooth through the mid-palate. Good stuff.
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Thanks, but it's a one-night-only shot. On Monday, we're going to go to Esty Street. Any info on that one?
I can only say that when business, several years ago, took me to Pearl River, NY and the Montvale/Park Ridge, NJ area on a regular basis, Esty Street was a standby and always quite satisfying.
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My question refers to a friend who keeps her wine collection in a basement pantry on shelves. Of course light and heat are not really a problem down there, but I noticed very distinctly the smell and feel of humidity in the air. Not really a "mold problem" per se, but it was a little danker than I would have thought good. SO... is humidity, dampness, dankness and/or mold in the basement a serious issue to consider? I was going to tell my friend to get her wine collection OUT of that basement right away, but then I thought I might ask here first.
Actually, the only problem posed by high humidity levels is that, over time, the labels may discolor, mold and/or fall off of bottles due to moisture. Only submersion would be likely to damage the wines themselves. Temperatures above 70 degrees, oxygen and strong, prolonged light exposure are all of much more concern.
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- Pasta sauce of any type, whether tomato, stock, cream or oil-based. I can't remember the last time I bought a pre-prepared jar, commercial or "gourmet," of any of the above.
- Soups and stocks.
- Frozen gnocchi. As a cyclist and occasional carb-loader, there was a time when this was a staple. Since experimenting with various recipes for potato, spinach, ricotta and goat cheese-based gnocchi, I've never gone back to packaged versions.
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Any wine suggestions for Nan? They have venison (zin?), lamb (cab?), pad thai (Belgian beer or a Gwertztraminer?), duck (pinot Noir?). I could bring a rhone...
I think you'll get the best mileage, relative to the complete menu at Nan, out of a dry Riesling from Germany or Austria in the white department and a medium-bodied Rhone or a young, fruit-centered Burgundy for a red.
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I've always been a semi-regular at Sang Kee Peking Duck House; the prices relative to quality are hard to beat. While not quite as inexpensive, Sang Kee Asian Bistro in Wynnewood has rapidly displaced just about all other suburban Chinese outposts within my sphere of travel. Mummer's already hit upon their excellent watercress dumplings. For a straight-up vegetable dish, sauteed pea shoots with lots of garlic are a damn tasty accompaniment to the rest of the meal. And just as at Sang Kee in Chinatown, their various takes on noodle soups as well as the Peking Duck (which comes from downtown, btw) are top notch. If only they'd ditch the little TVs at the bar.... And do something to alienate some of the locals so it wouldn't always be so busy.
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One of the things that most attracted me to eGullet when it was first introduced to me was (and still is) its overall sense of maturity and professionalism. There is a level of both passion and sincerity, along with a peer-review publication system, that puts the site head and shoulders above most other food and wine related "bulletin boards." That said, like any other on-line forum, human nature expresses itself in myriad ways. Sometimes people just have fun and sometimes people gripe.
As it seems that some if not many restauranteurs are monitoring and even actively participating in the eG forums, clearly the site is having a real world impact. Whether it is a large enough impact to be for the greater good of dining experiences for all, I think, remains to be seen. It does not seem to me that the members of the site in any way mean for critiques to become the downfall of any particular dining or drinking establishment a la the one- or no-star ratings that can be so damning when published in traditional black and white dailys or periodicals. Criticism, when done well, really can be constructive.
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I'm afraid I've not much to add, as U City is still one of the least interesting culinary destinations in town unless you're just looking for inexpensive and very basic "ethnic" food. That said, I will strongly add my votes for Marigold Kitchen and Nan. Marigold is turning out some of the best BYO fare in Philly right now and Nan, though a bit old-school, is a consistently solid spot for classic French-Thai fusion.
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Thanks for the Carlino's recommendation, David. I gave the tomato pie a try on my way home today, and it's pretty great. Very thick crust, great sauce-- I didn't taste anchovy, but there's a nice bite of rosemary.
My only complaint is that the crust was a tiny bit gummy. That may be because it had been sitting around since the morning; or because it's kept at slightly below room temperature. It might benefit from a little spell in the oven once it gets home. If I can wait that long to eat it, that is.
Carlino's seems like a neat place, by the way; I'd never heard of them (my ignorance; I don't know the Main Line at all), but they have a nice selection of prepared foods, good-looking breads, and lots of homemade pasta. I picked up some frozen tortellini which I intend to cook up in some brodo for a quick dinner one of these days...
Sorry to veer off-topic folks, but... I'm glad you pursued the tip, Andrew. I don't often buy cheese from Carlino's, in spite of a decent selection, because of their proximity to Downtown Cheese's outpost in the Ardmore Farmers' Market. Otherwise, in addition to the tomato pie, I do enjoy their pastas and prepared foods. It's a regular spot if I'm in a pinch for something to serve for lunch when friends stop by.
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Depends what terms you are searching for. FWIW I tend to agree with your sister, what would give more intense fruit is vinification, think of Australia with high yields but still very fruit-forward.
That's an interesting theory, britcook. Let me ask you a question:
When you cook, do you like to start with anemic, unripe tomatoes (just as an example) and then try to make them taste good by adding sugar, acidifying ingredients and tomato concentrate? This is exactly what's being done by the large-scale, high-yield "wine"makers in Australia and the rest of the world (substituting grape concentrate for the tomato, of course). Or would you rather just start with good, ripe, physiologically mature tomatoes from a good grower?
The main point of reducing yields both per/vine and per/acre(hectare), whether it's through planting vines at a higher density or by cluster thinning, is to ensure even, physiological ripeness amongst the entire crop. Most grape vines are naturally vigorous and, if allowed to do so, will produce far more fruit/clusters than they can possibly fully ripen. Only alchemy in the winery can take overcropped fruit and turn it into "more intense fruit." The end result would be a much less natural product.
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I'm a pretty big fan of the tomato pie at Carlino's in Ardmore. Their pie fits into the large, baking sheet style with one major exception: no cheese. It's a fairly thick crust with crushed tomatoes (not sauce) made zesty by lots of garlic, herbs and, methinks, a dash of anchovy. Room temp, to-go only. You can order ahead for whole or half pies or buy by the slice but pay by the pound as a walk-in.
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I ate horse -- cavallo -- for the first time while traveling in Piemonte this past February. It's a traditional peasant dish of the region and, at least as served at the restaurant where I enjoyed it, it was quite tasty. That said, it's not something I've been calling my local butcher for a regular supply of....
As for the House's decision, the exception made seems to be one that would not stand up to judicial review if it were to come to that. From the Reuters article which provided the "meat" for this discussion, "This is a piece of legislation that is long overdue," said sponsor John Sweeney, New York Democrat, tracing efforts back to 1979. He decried horses being killed so their meat can be sold "as a delicacy, not a necessity." Sweeney's sentiment may be heartwarming to some but his logic could be applied to all fauna in the human diet. The last time I checked, it was not a "necessity" for humans to eat animal flesh of any kind.
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Post facto, I'll throw my vote into the hat for Hana as well. When I worked in Radnor several years ago, it was a weekly lunch stop. Not only is their sushi always fresh, well cut and well presented, their cooked dishes are traditional and top notch. I haven't had better udon anywhere in the tri-state area.
If you're looking for fancy decor, lots of bells and whistles or crazy Americanized maki, you may be disappointed. If you're looking for great food in a quiet, typical Japanese setting, it's a great find. The fact that it's BYO is just a tremendous bonus.
PS: Although Sampan Inn is much closer to home for me, I will make the drive out to Hana ten times out of ten.
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Try Patou at 312 Market Street. The bar is spacious and the food is solid -- Provencal style -- just in case you decide to make a meal of it. The ambience is more high-toned than at Grace, Standard Tap, etc., but it's still casual and comfortable.
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While I thoroughly enjoyed most of the films on your top ten list, Peter, for me it's a two film answer: Babettes's Feast for beautifully presenting the art, passion and community of cooking and Tampopo for pure fun.
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I would imagine there are an infinite number of possibilities under this topic.
Quite right, Brad, if this were meant to be a catalog of any and every food and wine pairing akin to the "What did you have for dinner?" and "What beer did you drink today?" threads. The idea here is to present a forum for counterintuitive matches -- things that would not have been expected to work well together -- that don't just work well but actually result in something more than the collective flavors of the dish alone and the wine alone. As a coworker of mine likes to say, "A two plus two equals six pairing..." -- and a surprising one.
Pegu Club
in New York: Dining
Posted
I visited Pegu Club for the first time last Sunday while in New York for the week transition (Sunday and Monday). It was an early visit so we had our pick of seats and chose one of the cozy two-top tables along the windows overlooking Houston Street. I started off with The Pegu Club Cocktail, my companion with a Pineapple Pisco Sour. The Pegu Club was, for me, a perfect slow-sipping cocktail; the only problem with that being that my partner polished off her equally delicous Pisco Sour in a flash and wasn't in the mood for waiting for me to catch up. So, on to seconds... for her the Jamaican Firefly and the Gin-Gin Mule for me. I'm a big ginger beer fan so a drink combining their own homemade version with my favorite white spirit was too much to pass up.
Overall, it was a great and amazingly relaxed experience. On future visits, I'll aim for the bar instead of the tables so as to converse more readily with the barstaff. I also took advantage of Audrey's generous offering of both Regan's Orange Bitters #6 and Peychaud's Bitters in hopes of being able to replicate some of Pegu's fine potions at home -- or at least enjoy trying.