I've read the review several times now and here's my problem. It smells like she called the restaurant up and said "Hi, I'm Alex Gill of the Globe and Mail newspaper and I'd like to make a reservation for dinner so I can write a review" Sure she might not have enjoyed her experience there and her review certainly reflects that, but to make a big deal about paying for the meal herself or more likely on the Globe's tab seems to be a little much as it seems - and I have no evidence than my own suspicion - that she tipped them that she was coming for dinner.