Lapin d'Argent

Fortunately, John, there is help available... But I just remembered those Pop'n Fresh butterflake rolls...are they as good as they used to be? I'm not sure that any "real" bread could come close to how yummy those things were, especially when pulled apart and slathered with yet more butter. They were a fixture at every holiday meal when I was growing up.

I've never been one to eat mushrooms on their own, but I might be tempted to snag a bowl of yours. As for washing the mushrooms, if you did soak them in water, would that make for a larger amount of mushroom-infused pan sauce later on? I've only cooked mushrooms a few times in my life, and they were finished with some beef stock and a dash of heavy cream. edited to add a quote Shamanjoe -- you're welcome anytime! As for washing them, I don't think that affects the amount of pan sauce. That's more dependent on the amount of oil/butter/alcohol that you introduce to produce a glaze, plus the quantity and type of mushrooms. Baby bellas, for example, are going to throw more liquid than chanterelles, for example. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with beef stock and heavy cream -- except that a dash of brandy or port would probably have made things even better!

*ahem*... I LIKE ketchup on my hotdogs. Also mustard. AND onions. Not relish so much. So there.

I always brush-wash my mushrooms under not-too-cold water, soaking them briefly if necessary. If they're pre-sliced, I might just give them a rinse in the colander. I tend to cook them in a hybrid sort of way, kind-of similar to the one described by Shalmanese. I think in both these methods, damp mushrooms are an advantage, and old mushrooms perk right up. First, I always use a fair bit of oil, just as I would for tomatoes. Exact quantity depends on the size of your pan and the quantity of mushrooms, but say about 1/4 cup. Secondly, I add the sliced mushrooms to the medium-hot oil, salt, and then cover the pan to encourage the mushrooms start sweating. Once they are well on their way to shedding some of their liquid (usually in about 5 minutes or less), I uncover the pan, and squeeze in about a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice. This further encourages them to shed some more lovely juice, and brightens up the flavor profile. Keep sauteing until the liquid is nearly gone, then add a generous splash of the fortified alcohol of your choice -- I like a nice brandy these days, but sherry is good too. You should now be able to cook the mushrooms down to a nice browned finish -- turn up the heat if necessary, but keep a close eye on them. If you want, finish with a little butter, and adjust the seasoning. They'll hold, covered, in a low oven, while you finish your risotto or polenta, or whatever you plan to serve them with. A final sprinkle with a fresh herb is a lovely contrast. [Edited to fix pesky typos]

I forgot about canned peaches! I used to love them when I was a kid. And Underwood deviled ham. I think the fact that the cans came wrapped in paper, like bottles of Worcestershire sauce, added something to the flavor. I never see them in the store anymore. Of course, I don't really look, either... Boy R D -- you make me want one of your special fake crab meat sandwiches. Maybe with just a couple dashes of hot sauce... This thread is the Den of Iniquity. Carry on!

Oaky white wines. Use to love them. Can't go near them now...they taste fake to me.

Especially if you have or get a vacuum packer, you could partially freeze the dumplings, then seal them up in flat packages for everyone to take home. The packing and sealing could be another group project. OK, I have to have this party myself!

Especially with dishes that are braised, or intentionally cooked in a way so that their flavors marry, I find a sprinkle of ONE fresh herb can perk things up and add a nice contrast. Parsley is the heavy hitter here, but basil is a close runner-up, depending on the dish. And combined with the afore-mentioned citrus rind...well, that's just fabulous on a brisket, for example.

Oh, if only we could PM food... One of my favorites, and very easy is Cook's Illustrated Hearty Lentil Soup with Fragrant Spices, from January 2004. The original recipe is for soup, but I often cut back the liquid and serve it at a side dish. Happy to post my version if folks are interested.

I LOVE Pizza Rolls. Damn it. But they used to taste better than they do now...they've gone all healthy and "lite" on me. Now the pepperoni has *shudder* TURKEY in it! What the hell kind of pepperoni is that? Also, when I'm sick with a cold or something, the only thing I want to eat is Kraft Mac & Cheese (powder kind only -- no innovations, thank you), and strawberry jello. No other flavors need apply. Sometimes a can of Cambell's tomato soup, made with milk so that it's magically Cream of Tomato soup, is also good.

Chris, thanks for posting that video -- she's a dream to watch! Now where do I get me one of them nice big beautiful rolling pins?

We had mackerel for dinner last night -- it was delicious! Very mild, but tasty fillets. We used a really simple recipe from Mark Bittman here. Best of all 1lb of fresh filets were $6. Add rice and steamed broccoli, and you've got a really good, filling, health, cheap meal. I will definitely try grilling whole mackerel sometime.

Chris, The only unusual type of celery I've seen is red celery, but you have to grow that yourself. There are interesting varieties in this year's Cook's and Johnny's catalogs. I'm thinking of giving it a whirl myself. The other options are Lovage, and Par-Cel. These are both a type known as "cutting celery." As Bob notes, most celery is grown at least somewhat hilled, to blanch, although these days they may be considered at least semi-self-blanching. They do need a lot of water! By the way, if you haven't tried it yet, I highly recommend the braised celery recipe in Braising with Molly. It's a revelation!

Preserved Lemons. This should probably be on my recipes list. Been dying to try these for ages. Now that I've got homemade vanilla extract under my belt (and is that fabulous!), I need to looking into other similar types of things, like limoncello, and various infusions. Also want to do more pickles. And mincemeat! More fish. Salt cod, for example. And fresh sardines. And mackerel. Kayb -- You definitely need a copy of Jasper White's "Lobster at Home." Highly recommended! It's so worth making a batch of Rich Lobster Stock and freezing it. Then you can have Lobster Risotto, or any seafood risotto, or pasta, any time you want. I make a batch twice a year, once in the winter and once in the summer, and we're happy all year long.

Thanks, Erin -- I was hoping you'd see this post. I knew you'd remember the details of Marcella's recipe much better than I could! - L.

Last night was Diana Kennedy's Mexican Rice pumped up with roasted tomatillos and a roasted ancho pepper, Mayacoba beans from Rancho Gordo, some leftover Thanksgiving turkey defrosted earlier, and dollops of homemade yogurt. Hearty and tasty. Tonight it gets dolled up with some cilantro and lime, and a side of sauteed dandelion (escarole) greens. Right now there's a batch of Potato & Leek soup from Canal House Cooking on the stove, and a batch of pate fermentee on the counter for Peter Reinhart's Pain de Campagne for tomorrow night's dinner. I'll be lighting a fire in the fireplace shortly, now that most of our chores are done, and we can settle down to read for a bit. The best thing about cold weather like this is 1) coming in from outside and 2) cooking!

Somewhere, Marcella Hazan refers to this as cooking the sauce until the oil shows through (or something like that). I couldn't find the reference when I looked for it just now, but I know if made a big impression on me, because that's what I always look for now. It's also important to use enough oil in the pan -- a teaspoon won't do it; you need the oil (or butter) to help coat the pasta. This doesn't have to be a long process -- I make pasta sauces in an large open, straight-sided frying pan. Fresh tomato sauces are the quickest -- 15 to 20 minutes. Another 5 to 10 minutes for canned whole tomatoes, plus a bit more time (and a cover) for diced tomatoes, which are really firm, and take a while to break down.

Anna, thanks so much for this topic! And thanks everyone so far for such inspiring lists. Here's mine: 1. Bacon. Time to stop lurking on that Charcuterie thread and finally cure and smoke me a belly. 2. Duck confit. What's not to love? 3. Souffle. Never made one in my life, sweet or savory. Really, how hard can it be? 4. Ravioli. I've made my own pasta, but never my own ravioli. High time. 5. ??? Not sure what the final item is to be yet; perhaps someone else will remind me!

If find that if I start it when I'm making dinner, it's ready for breakfast in the morning. Or if I start it first thing in the morning, it's ready by dinner time, or when I go to bed at the latest. Since I don't have to do anything to it, it doesn't really matter how long it takes, as long as the start and end times are convenient. However, I haven't tried doing a batch in small containers, only in one larger quart+ container, so that may make all the difference. I figure I can just spoon it out of the larger container into smaller ones as I need it, once it's cultured. Is there a particular reason you want to make it in smaller jars, instead of a larger container?

Kouign, Just use any glass or plastic container wrapped in a bath towel or two. If you have an insulated bag it will fit in, so much the better. A little less heat/insulation = a little more time. Also, if you use a bit more starter, you can save a little time. That's been my experience, anyway. Welcome to the wonderful world of homemade yogurt -- isn't it delicious? - L.

I'ts on my menu for tomorrow. I picked up the salmon yesterday. It only needs 24-48 hrs depending. Mine will go 48 hrs but that's my limit. I have done it in 24 and it has a nice soft texture. It's cured enough for me. It's picking up the salmon that requires planning -- not the curing! We live out a bit in the hinterlands...

As we say in my industry, that's a feature, not a bug. I have set up a special notebook in Microsoft OneNote that is specifically devoted to things to make next year for the holidays, with a link to this thread. Now I'm all set!

New Year's dinner turned out to be a giant antipasto spread, followed by Broiled mussels with gremolata Dozens of raw oysters Shrimp cocktail Smoked salmon and rye toast followed by a cheese course, then the two desserts I brought, plus apple pie. It was, to say the least, quite a meal. Kim -- I love your concept: I have friends who could totally party with your friends! We make bad 70s food for each other all the time! All those lobsters sure look fabulous, and make me think that next year, we're going to have to insist on bringing a lobster course with us... - L.

Ditto. Come late afternoon, I almost always have to put aside whatever tedious thing I was working on for a client, because it's time to start dinner! And then after dinner I'm just too tired, so it will just have to wait until morning...

Marmalade. I had no idea it was so darn easy, until I came across a great recipe in the late, lamented Kitchen Garden magazine years ago. At least when you can get ruby grapefruit and blood oranges, life is good.