molto e

Chefs Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot of the "Ideas In Food" blog perform their culinary magic at the boutique hotel, Keyah Grande. I do not remember how I stumbled on the "Ideas In Food" blog. Now I check in on a daily basis with this husband and wife chef team that hold an open forum on the internet (and eGullet members). This blog is on the radar of "Foodies" and "Professionals" that I have spoken with. Well, I am off to see for myself what these two maestros create on a daily basis. HAS ANYONE EVER BEEN TO KEYAH GRANDE? Ideas In Food Keyah Grande Thanks, Molto E

As I wrote in Joel Robuchon and the Dream Team, Chef Robuchon was given all means necessary to execute a dining experience of the highest order. Robuchon at the Mansion has received praise from a number of critics around the world including: R.W. Apple Jr., Irene Virbila, Ruth Reichl, Maurice Graham Henry and Andre Gayot. The Mansion has a staff of 42 people that accomodate the 19 tables in the dining room. The facility is about 85% kitchen to dining room space. When you walk through the doors in the dining room leading to the back of the house, a quick right turn leads you to the "pass". If Chef Robuchon does not like the dish then it does not make it thru the pass "Allez" The next shot is taken right behind the pass. Main Kitchen Island with induction cook top Back wall of the main kitchen Calm under "fire" Immersion blenders During service the calm exhibited by the chefs is amazing. The kitchen was very quiet with everyone going about their work. No swearing, no sweating just synchronized movement to bring out the next course. Bust out the caviar During this particular menu, the Mansion was going thru 5 kilos of caviar every three weeks. Black Truffles before and after prepped for one of the tastiest black truffle tartlets. Black Truffles were being shaved with reckless abandon at the clip of 10 kilos a week ( that is not a misprint). There is a back kitchen adjacent to the main kitchen that much of the prep takes place in. Front portion of back kitchen The kitchen is filled with many toys for the chefs to create with. Some of the gadgets are from the new world and some of the gadgets are from the old world. Pacojet gelato / ice cream machine Sous-vide in action Well to sous-vide it does not hurt to have one of these... Past the front part of the back kitchen, you will find the lobster tank that is filled with live lobsters from Brittany that arrive weekly. There are a few walk-in coolers filled with various treats: French Foie Gras Get ready... Japanese WAGYU...Chef look over there...see molto run with wagyu French guinea hen Japanese Amadei After showing me the wagyu, Chef Claude Le Tohic realizes that he has aroused my hunger and let's me try the brioche that is given away at the end of the grand tasting menu at the Mansion. Right out of the oven The brioche was out of this world, but I just had to ask...I could not help myself...Chef do you have any of that Eshire butter laying around ? Best Butter Ever Look the brioche did not need it, but come on...that stuff is crazy good. Now here was his mistake...do not leave a case of that GOLD in plain site. Do they leave gold bricks out like that at Fort Knox...maybe they do?? Can I stuff that under my shirt...I think I can... will it melt? Now deep underneath the bowels of the MGM there is a room specifically built as the bake shop for the Robuchon restaurants. Everything is done the Parisian way and to make sure of this the head baker was sent to Paris to train. Recipe Book More French butter Wood boards are used for everything

Great looking lunch and nice shots...they really offer an eclectic selection. The initial courses are refined and the deep fried sloppy joe on the other end of the spectrum, yet delicious.

RS, Is there an age cut-off for the make your own pizza or do I have to smuggle your son in to get the job done Molto E

Well done Doc, the finger food at that event looked great.

ALL POINTS BULLETIN JAPANESE WAGYU HAS ARRIVED AT SEA SAW Well, there is not much more to say than that...this is a development that I have been waiting, drooling, wanting, needing , for a long time. Some mourn the end of summer, that don't live in Phoenix, but a benefit of the cooler temperatures is the availability of wild bluefin tuna. So the picture becomes clearer, Molto E has been eating regularly at Sea Saw. Chef Nobuo Fukuda suggested a new sake that he just got in: Masakura Junmai Ginjo-this is a kimoto style sake, Nobuo said to enjoy as you would a red wine at room temperature. By drinking this sake at room temperature, the flavors and nuances of the sake were appreciated. The Hassun contained two new items: uni with clam sake mushi (sake steamed), tomato water, wasabi oil grilled shihito peppers with yuan grilled bluefin and bonito shavings with tosa and grilled wagyu I loved tasting the bluefin and the wagyu side by side. If I had a choice of bluefin or wagyu beef, right now I am leaning to the bluefin. In the foreground Chef Fukuda is slicing some wild Canadian bluefin tuna for my next course, while Sous-Chef Geoff Reed is slicing daikon sheets without looking. I have tried slicing daikon sheets and that is no easy feat, let alone without looking. Three types of bluefin (from back to front): maguro, kama shita (found in the front of the fish by the collar and has more sinew) and toro. Each type of the tuna has a different texture and mouthfeel. Most people that have not eaten top quality tuna are used to eating something like the maguro, though not the quality of this specimen. The kama shita is very difficult to come by as the amount in each fish is very small and very much in demand. I enjoy the kama slightly seared but raw is luxurious as well. When I was eating the toro, I did not have to chew the pieces. Upon entering my mouth, the pieces just melted away with a dab of freshly grated wasabi and a quick dip into Nobuo's homemade soy sauce. This was the first time that toro had been available in quite some time and I found myself slowing down and savoring every mouthful. Okoze kon bujime, momiji oroshi, chive yuzu zest from McClendon farms yuzu Chef said that the fish head had little bits of flesh that could be fished out and eaten if I so desired ( I so desired, fish cheek rocks). Shabu Shabu The fish that were offered with this course were: tai snapper, sockeye, and clam ( the lighter colored was from the siphon and the darker was from inside the shell) clam getting a little bath in the broth By cooking the fish and clam in the broth, the broth takes on a lovely flavor. The broth is then presented to the diner to be enjoyed. broth with grilled masatake mushroom, mitsuba stem and yuzu The next course was bluefin and kobe ishiyaki (seared on the hot rock). I have pictured this before but just one shot of the Japanese wagyu. Japanese Wagyu There were two new dessert offerings from Pastry Chef Tracy Dempsey: midori kanten with lemon verbena panna cotta, charentes melon and cucumber sorbet Chef Fukuda said that this was in the style of traditional desserts in Japan. Japanese jello and American jello are two different animals, J-E-L-L-O! peach tartlet with basil ice cream, peach skin crisp and basil syrup All and all another great meal at Sea Saw. Each day past is another day closer to the new Sea Saw across the street in the South Canal project and the new off-shoot Shell-Shocked.

iriee, The places that I mentioned are in Phoenix. There should be some white truffles available on some menus in Vegas...let us know. Best, Molto E

September 30, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Q & A with Food Critic Howard Seftel...Howard answers some questions sent in by his readers. Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Carey details the expansion plans of Santa Fe restaurateurs Cliff Skoglund and Robert Hall in Phoenix. From the Phoenix New Times: Ticoz...Food Critic Michele Laudig is not satisfied with the food or service at this wanna-be"resto-bar". From the Tucson Citizen: Restaurant Notebook...This edition of the Restaurant Notebook details; the "Native Seeds/SEARCH Benefit" dinner held at Janos, the opening of Tucson's first Carvel and the "Tucson Meet Yourself" fundraiser at the Hotel Congress. Good Eating, Molto E

Tis the season...wishing you and yours a tasty white truffle season Out of the ground in Italy on Tuesday...in Phoenix on Friday...got the call and off to the ATM Mrs. White Truffle picks out a favorite YEP Dinner...Baked eggs with truffled cream being served this evening at Mary Elaine's, Sassi, Binkley's, and Sea Saw Reward for combination to James Beard Award winning Chef Brad Thompson's Truffle Humidor at Mary Elaine's (it's full)

Doc, Great report...I know you had a blast covering this event. Your picture of Liebrandt's Demo plate is a beautiful shot. During Albert Adria's demo did he discuss American chefs use of modern technique vs. Spanish chefs? I heard something secondhand today and was wondering if you caught this part of the dialogue. Molto E

Doc, That meal looked fantastic!!! The bluefin tuna ribbons looked sublime. The more I see of Johnny I's work, the more I think that he is at the top of the heap. I am surprised that Moby did not get a meal there to his liking, because I have not heard that king of response. Any restaurant can have an off day unfortunately. Augieland has a nice meal that he had at JGV here and here. When I get up that way lunch at JG is a must. Molto E

September 22, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Nee House...Food Critic Howard Seftels reveals one of his tricks to find good ethnic retaurants. He reads the local ethnic newspapers and feels that if a restaurant is going to advertise to it's own community that it must be good. This practise led him to a Chinese treat, Nee House. Haifa Restaurant & Bar...Howard reviews Haifa Restaurant & Bar that serves Jewish Fare with a twist. Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Carey tells us about the "Aussie Pies" by Mojo Pies and some rare "juice" at Armitage Wine Lounge and Store. From the Phoenix New Times: China King...Food Critic Michele Laudig finds the dim sum at China King to be Chinatown good. From the Tucson Citizen: Michelangelo Ristorante Italiano ...C.J. Karamargin says the spot to bring a supermodel to break her diet is Michelangelo Ristorante Italiano. Restaurant Notebook...This installment of the "Restaurant Notebook" covers the new location of Chu's Mongolian Barbecue and Chile Verde Sonoran Grill. Good Eating, Molto E

September 17, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Seftel's Blog "Feeding Frenzy"...Howard details the change in the focus of the cuisine at Wright's and the departure of Phoenix Magazine Food Critic Niki Buchanan. With Niki's retirement that makes two of the most prominent critics around town putting down the fork, knife and pen in the last couple months (Stephen Lemons of the New Times was the other). Ippei Japanese Bistro...Food Critic Howard Seftel says the food at Ippei Japanese Bistro may be too good and authentic for them to achieve their goal to become "America's favorite Japanese restaurant chain". Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Carey Sweet chronicles her Shochu adventures in Scottsdale with her sister. From the Phoenix New Times: Wildfish Seafood Grille...Food Critic Michele Laudig finds the crab cakes are better than Mom used to make at Wildfish Seafood Grille. From the Tucson Citizen: Tucson BBQ...Larry Cox breaks down the BBQ scene in Tucson. Cushing Street Bar & Restaurant...C.J.Karamargin says to go for the bar but "leave the rest(aurant) alone" at Cushing Street Bar and Restaurant. Restaurant Notebook...In this installment of the "Restaurant Notebook"; Wine Spectator recognizes 19 local eateries and the St. Philip's Plaza Chili Festival. Meet the Chef: Tom Mead, Cafe Terra Cotta...C.J. Karamargin conducts a Q&A with Cafe Terra Cotta Chef Tom Mead. The fall issue of Edible Phoenix has hit the stands with articles on: Mesquite- It's not just for Barbecue anymore. The Constant Gardener I Was A Junk Food Vegan Janos Celebrates Native Seeds Cooking Fresh Dinner Parties On the Front Lines Reality Check- High Maintenance Ordering Over The Rainbow To Granite Creek- We're off to See the Winemaking Wizards Local Books This Rose Helps Others To Blossom Lo-Lo's Fried Chicken & Waffles Valley Bites Good Eating, Molto E

More and more menus around town hail their pork from The Pork Shop in Queen Creek. I made the journey to the mecca of pork yesterday and picked up a bounty of product. I got hooked on the peppered bacon while dining at Matt's Big Breakfast, but now I can not leave the shop without buying the regular version. The breakfast sausage is far and away the best that I have ever consumed. My favorite type is the Western Sage, but I also bought: Southern Style, Jalapeno and Maple Syrup links. I assure you after tasting the artisan bacon and sausage from The Pork Shop then you will start making the journey to Queen Creek and leave the supermarket varieties behind. I also picked up a pork butt for some pulled pork sandwiches. The house-made capicolla is out of this world and a welcome departure from the commercial charcuterie that is widely available in Phoenix. The Hot Italian sausage was hailed as the best stuff in the place by my "pork tour guide" Jason . For fans of fried cheese, the provolone sausage when pan fried has bits of crispy cheese scattered thru out the sausage patty. If pork belly is your thing call a week in advance to special order some of the nicest "belly" money can buy. All this talk around breakfast time means some biscuits and gravy are soon to come.

The last time that I was there, the server asked if I would like him to pair up the meal with wine. To my knowledge, there is not specific pairings, but I enjoyed his choices.

Scott, As far as attire, jeans and a nice shirt are fine. The tasting menu is probably the best way to try as many things and get a bit of a value. Look at the menu and they will substitute courses if you see something that you want. If I go with two people, one of us orders the tasting menu and then we order a la carte as well. They will do pairings so just ask about it when you are ordering. Good Eating, Molto E

September 8, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Pink Taco...Food Critic Howard Seftel says to stick to the chips, salsa, and margaritas and skip the rest of the meal at the Pink Taco. Carey Sweet's Dining Column ...Carey Sweet details the birthdays of 4 local eateries. From the Phoenix New Times: Tradiciones...Michele Laudig reviews the new restaurant at the Phoenix Ranch Market...Tradiciones. From the Tucson Citizen: Paletas: Don't let them melt away...Sheryl Kornman reveals where you can get your fix of paletas in the Tucson area. Going out: Around the world in ate days - OK, 84...C.J. Karamargin highlights the reviews of this summers ethnic restaurant tour. Restaurant Notebook...The current local restaurant news can be found in the "Restaurant Notebook". Good Eating, Molto E

September 2, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Dragonfly Vietnamese Cafe...Food Critic Howard Seftel reveals that he would like to come back in his next life as Vietnamese villager so he can enjoy the cuisine. But until that happens he found the food at Dragonfly Vietnamese so tasty and cheap that it hardly pays to eat at home. Seftel's Blog- "Feeding Frenzy"...Howard gives the outline of Fred Ungar's SouthBridge project. Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Carey stalks the Valley chefs on their summer vacations. Da Vang...Food Critic Michele Laudig reviews the Vietnamese spot on 19th avenue, Da Vang. From the Tucson Citizen: Crossroads...C.J. Karamargin reviews an oldy but a goodie-Crossroads on Fourth Avenue. Meet The Chef: Larry Salinas of the Lodge on the Desert...C.J. Karamargin interviews Chef Larry Salinas of the Lodge on the Desert. Restaurant Notebook...In this week's notebook; Auld Dubliner opens in the Geronimo Hotel, Ascolese's Italian Restaurant opens on Monday and Stogie & Vine, a new cigar and wine boutique in Plaza Palomino. Good Eating, Molto E

L'Apetitto 30 E. Huron, Chicago Tel: (312) 787-9881 875 Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL (312)337-0691 IMO, the best italian deli supermarket in the city. Homemade sausage, mozzarella, pasta sauce, panini's, wicked sandwiches, and out of this world selection of quality salumi including Culatello. I think the Michigan Av location may have a bigger selection. It is in the bottom level of the John Handcock Building off Michigan Av across from Cheesecake Factory.

Phoenix Best Bets: Sea Saw Binkley's Restaurant Zinc Bistro Cyclo Lo-Lo's Fried Chicken and Waffles Kohnies-Coffee, Breakfast and Best Scones Pizzeria Bianco Pane Bianco Arlecchino Gelateria Lisa G Cafe Wine Bar...Casual Lunch As for Mexican in Phoenix, Barrio Cafe, Los Sombreros and Pepe's Tacos get recommended quite a bit. In Tucson, Cafe Poco Cosa, Janos and the J Bar at La Paloma would be where I would start. Good Eating, Molto E

Strong Words Ronnie S, can't wait to try it. Molto E

August 25, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Seftel's Dining News...In this installment of "Dining News": Phoenician's "Grand Experience" dining card, Pacific Bay Co. and Westgate City Center's dining options. Methode Bistro...Howard reviews the "inconsistent" Methode Bistro. Carey Sweet's Dining Column...Cary gives us the head's up on; Arizona Culinary Institute student dinners at Tapino Kitchen and Wine Bar, "Phoenix Cooks!" event at the Arizona Biltmore and changes brewing at Wright's. From the Phoenix New Times: Thai Basil...Michele Laudig feels that Thai Basil is a good reason to go back to Tempe even if you are not in school. From the Tucson Citizen: Candela Peruvian Restaurant ...C.J. Karamargin navigates the Peruvian fare at Candela Peruvian Restaurant with some unexpected pleasures. Restaurant Notebook...The entries in the "Restaurant Notebook" this week include; changes at Cafe Paraiso, renovations at the Bum Steer, Gentle Ben's new downtown brewery and 58 Degrees expansion plans. Meet the Chef: Jessica Kraus, Beyond Bread...C.J. Karamargin interviews Beyond Bread's Jessica Kraus Good Eating, Molto E

RS, Do you think the location on Wells is as good as the Suburban one? Molto E

August 21, 2006 From the Arizona Republic: Howard Seftel's Blog...In this entry of Howard's Blog; The downtown restaurant scene is starting to attract the chains, Kevin Binkley's expansion plans derailed (which entitles Frances Fonti to get my vote for "I would not know a good thing if it hit me in the face or was a tennant in my strip mall", and delays in the opening of Skye and Baroque. Dining News August 9-15...This installment of "Dining News" brings us details of: new valley burger joints, Grazie Pizzeria Winebar's new location and China Chili's rebuilding. Howard's recent restaurant reviews include: Lisa G, Circa 1900, and the half price happy hour menu at Wildfish Seafood Grille. Backstreet Wine Salon...Carey Sweet details the food and wine at Backstreet Wine Salon. From the Phoenix New Times: Michele Lauddig's recent restaurant reviews include Palazzo and Methode Bistro. From the Tucson Citizen: Meet The Chef: Joshua Mussman, Vero Amore...C.J. Karamargin interviews Joshua Mussman of Vero Amore. Le Rendez-vous...C.J. Karamargin says that in the 25 years that Le Rendez-vous has been open that it is as good as ever. Good Eating, Molto E

The top set menu is $290 Kitchen Tour Of Guy Savoy Underneath the burners is water so if there is a spill instead of hitting the cooktop, the spill hits the water and at the end of the night it is drained. inside the walk-in The Kitchen Table looking into the glassed in kitchen table looking out into the kitchen