rich

Amen, brother, amen.

Does this mean that after all this time, someone (Mr. Cutlets) actually agrees with me about Lugers and Sparks? I'm astonished. And all this time I thought I was a complete fool! Now I know better - there's more than one of us. Thank you Mr. Cutlets.

I'm not sure if they have anything available, but if you want a true Saratoga experience stay at the Chestnut Tree Inn at 9 Whitney Place (518) 587-8681 (a ten-minute walk to the track). When you walk in the front door, you will think you walked into the 19th Century. Spectacular place and Cathleen (the innkeeper) is an amazing woman. By the way, for those who were looking for my horse (Rachel's Sister) to run, she was injured in her last work prior to what would have been her first race. She's recuperating and won't race until October.

That's about all they serve now compared to what they served in the 60's and 70's.

Actually, it's been discussed a bit on the Masa thread in the New York forum. This is one of those topics that could go in either forum, as it's about New York and it's also about Food Media. To the contrary, she did write a review; she just decided not to award stars. Your comment seems to imply that the stars are what really count, and the words backing them up are extra baggage. To the contrary, I think it's the words that really count; the stars are just a headline. Otherwise, the Times might as well just publish star ratings alone, and skip the articles altogether. Remember, the "$25 and under" and "Diner's Journal" columns don't come with stars, so you could say that a majority of the Times's restaurant reviews don't come with a rating. Hesser's review was like a Diner's Journal entry that appeared on a Wednesday, instead of a Friday. Hesser has done something remarkable that a lot of people have clamored for: she actually explained the underlying logic between a 3-star vs. a 4-star restaurant. How many times have we commented that the connection between the review and the final rating was hard to comprehend? Here's a reviewer not merely lifting the veil on her thought process, but actually admitting that she's conflicted over what the final rating should be. Would that reviewers admitted such doubts more often! I have great difficulty drawing any analogies to the Jayson Blair incident. She did write a review. The only way to say she didn't is if you believe that the stars are more important than the words. It would be a sad day for journalism if that's the case. LOL! I think it's implicit that Mr. Bruni will review Masa relatively early in his tenure, although not necessarily in a few weeks or months. Now, perhaps you consider that unfair, but when exactly did the Times start dolling out its reviews fairly? A number of Hesser's reviews have been re-evaluations of restaurants previously covered, where there was no particular reason (such as a new chef or a major overhaul) justifying a second look. There have been some complaints about her judgment, but I don't recall any complaints that she had no business writing about these places. There have also been times when the Diner's Journal entry was followed by the main review a very short time later. Yet, we can all name significant restaurants that have never had a Times review at all. I wasn't making an analogy at all, I was merely suggesting that the NY Times editors have been running scared since that unfortunate incident and that may be a reason this review was allowed to be published without a final chapter. Editors aren't pushing reporters to "get the story" as much. If the Times plans to review it in the near future then it shouldn't have been reviewed now. Does the Times need to create a ???? category when it publishes its current list of "starred" restaurants? Of course the stars aren't as important as the review, but they serve as a reference for a lot of people. If the stars mean nothing then the Times should drop them. I would have no problem with that at all. I never said Ms. Hesser didn't have the right to write the review, I just think she should have finished the job.

I think it's clear you need a 4x4 tasting menu and the price will be determined by Per Se during its 3x3 celebration, which occurs during the 2x2 fortnight after the first crescent moon or on the first Tuesday of the month during a 1x1 eclipse of the sun. Does that explain it?

I respectfully disagree. If she wanted to split the review - fine. My criticism lies with passing to buck to the new reviewer. She said she wasn't offering a "star" review because this was her last column and would allow the new critic to award the stars "in the furure." In what - two or three years? Or do they plan on reviewing Masa again within the next few weeks or months? That would be unfair to other restaurants and diners waiting for reviews to be printed(especially since the Times can only publish 52 reviews a year). As she said at the end of her diatribe "...I would rather not...". Rather not? - totally, absolutley unprofessional by any journalistic standards - even the National Enquirer rises above that!

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this. In yesterday's NY Times Amanda Hesser gave Masa, the new $300 per person Japanese restaurant in the Time Warner Building, a ???? rating. In reading the review she states the sushi bar would be four stars, the regular seating three stars and if pressed would give the restaurant one rating or the other. However, she mentioned that this would be her last review and the new food critic would take over with next week's column. So in deference to him, she decided to pass on a review and let him make his own decision in the future. Is this a cop out? It sounds a lot like sour grapes. I've never felt one way or another about her reviews. She seems okay to me, but this was totally unprofessional. Do your job Amanda, you're getting paid by the NY Times for a review, so review. Don't leave it for the next guy to clean up. If you think it's worth four stars then go on record, if it's three stars then so be it. But most of all, I feel ashamed for the Times in allowing her to pass the buck. Those editors must be running scared since the plagiarism fiasco. This would never happen with egullet reviewers!

For the first time in the almost two years I've belonged to egullet, I can say that Mr. Shaw is categorically wrong. He posted that the fois gras pate would be the "best $12 you ever spend." Well, it could have been the best $36 I ever spent -it was that good. Mr. Steve underestimated its value. The food was top notch, I had a grilled pork chop for an entree and my wife had the saddle of Rabbit for an appetizer and a Hangar Steak for an entree. The wine list is extensive with "liquor store" prices. The waiter, un-prompted, told me the restaurant was offering a "special" on wine with "liquor store" pricing. So I don't know how long this will last. It has the best half-bottle selection this side of Bern's. The grill is located five feet behind the bar - I think that's cool. I was talking to the cook for about 10 minutes - very enjoyable.

Actually the reason OIBLTIBS made my list had nothing to do with decor or ambiance (though both are quite prevalent at the restaurant). It was for two things: 1. I believe it serves the finest Beef Wellington (one on my favorite dishes if prepared properly) I've ever had and at a very reasonable price. 2. Their $75 tasting menu could be the best value in the Metro area today. I don't know when the NYTimes reviewed it last, but it has improved recently. On the Times scale, it probably deserves a second star.

With all the discussion about rating systems for restaurants and what constitutes a 4-star, 3-star, etc., it came into mind what about a totally different scale? I'm going to make an attempt to rank Metro NYC restaurants on a dollar-for-dollar basis. In another words what do you get for your hard-earned money? Let's do this on a food and beverage basis. While I agree that service, decor and ambiance have their place, you can't eat or drink those. Here goes: 1. Henry's End, Brooklyn, NY. For thirty years the most consistent restaurant in the Metro NYC. Excellent diverse menu - outstanding wine and beer list at very fair prices. 2. Parkside - Queens, NY 3. Per Se 4. Blue Hill 5. Mesa Grill Honorable mention (in no particular order): Napa Valley Grill, Garden State Mall, NJ; Chanterelle; Union Square Cafe; Grammercy Tavern; Smith & Wollensky; The Tasting Room; Aquavit and One If By Land, Two If by Sea. It would be interesting to see everyone's choices on this basis.

Welcome, jmax. I hope that your crisis isn't serious and that you can work a reservation switch. I also hope that when you do get to Per Se, you'll share your experience here. The switching could be a bit tricky. Make sure you tell the other party to use your name and then you will need to use their name when you get to the restaurant. And if the other couple is arriving separately, make sure they use the other person's name as well.

I called May 12 about 3:00 p.m. (five hours after the phone lines opened that day, and got through within one minute) for a July 12 reservation for four (wife's birthday). Was offered a 10:00 p.m. but that would be too late simply because it would mean a five-hour wait in the city or traveling back and forth to Staten Island twice. I asked about something in the 7-8 p.m. frame and was told they would put me on a waiting list. After I gave them my name, the reservationist said "...oh you were here on Feb. 17th for your 25th Anniversary. We will make every effort to accommodate you. We'll let you know about an earlier time as soon as possible." I thought that was nice. I do have a backup at Bouley for 7:30. I may be wrong, but I think I will get something earlier - just a feeling.

Anyone know how the Greeks do it for grilled octopus? The dish they serve at S'agapo in Astoria is excellent.

Um, an aureole is the big gold shiny halo thing around saints' heads in medieval pictures. You're thinking of an areola. And I always thought that was a double exposure.

This has given me an idea. What about producing a "coffee table" book with photos of all these unique names? It could be titled: "The Name Should be Changed to Protect the Inncocent"

These are all great names - both good and bad. But would (or has) anyone either eaten at a place because of its name or refused to eat at a restaurant because of its name?

The best California Sangiovese I ever had was the '99 Atlas Peak, but it doesn't match up well to its Italian cousins. I fall in the middle. I don't think it's been a total failure, I think the Californians have created a different style, much like Pinot Noir. The Italians are more complex, the Cailfornians are simple and pleasant. I toally agree with you about the price - absolutlely silly.

I won't disillusion you. Nice name, great bar, terrific view - go for a drink and make dinner reservations somewhere else. (Citarella is right down the block.)

They serve food there? I thought it was just a place to see and be seen. people go to hooters to be seen?? Just the waitresses.

The first time I saw the name El Bulli I thought it was the restaurant associated with the Bully Hill winery in the Finger Lakes. But as I became more sophisticated I found out it was run by the parents of those children who terrorize the smaller kids at school.

I'll decide - no!

Agreed, without great taste nothing else matters.

Are these spinoffs of Hooters?

Jeff Smith (Frugal Gourmet) and Frasier!!