mzimbeck

Really? I love the MK2! I have only eaten there once though and it was pretty mediocre. I will have to try the hamburger next time. ← You're right! They've redone their restaurant to coincide with the opening of the second theater (Quai de Loire). And the burger, which before was okay and eaten only for nostalgic purposes, has been much-improved with a different bun and sauce. And with better fries. Overall, I do think the food at MK2 is only mediocre, as you'd expect with a cinema restaurant, but the BURGER rocks.

I love sandwiches, and all your descriptions are making me hungry. Here are some of my favorites: 1) Cojean (many locations). Yum. 2) Eric Kayser (6th and all over): Anything on his bread. 3) Flûte de Meaux (19th): this little boulangerie makes their sandwiches on an award-winning flûte, so they're fantastic. Near the corner of Jaures and rue de Meaux. 4) Bellota-Bellota (7th): the bocadillos aren't cheap, but they're very good. 18, rue Jean Nicot. 5) Tienda Nueva (9th): take-out Columbian tamales. 57, rue Rodier. 6) Bagels & Brownies (6th): the bagel sandwich with turkey, avocado, swiss, and honey mustard. 12, Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs. 7) MK2: on a heretical note, the best burger in Paris can be found at the restaurant associated with the MK2 Quai de Seine Cinema in the 19th. And I'm not just saying that because you can eat it overlooking the Bassin de la Villette and afterward be ferried across to your movie in a cute little boat. It's really, really good. http://www.mk2.com/quaideloire/site.html

Thanks a lot, Pontormo. That's the kind of insight you don't really get in the books, and I appreciate it.

Wow - thanks for the treasure trove of recommendations, Pontormo. It seems like I have quite a few good options to choose from on Sunday. [As for your plans to visit San Gimignano in the day time and Siena for dinner, a gentle nudge: San G. is a made-up modern fantasy of medieval Italy. It is charming, but it's a bit of a Disneyland. With Lucca (THE Florence of the earlier Middle Ages) you get the real thing combined with an elegant touch of the 18th century, and Siena, Siena is a wonderful place where most of its riches date to the late thirteenth and early fourteenth century (i.e. when Paris was becoming Paris). I don't have strong recommendations for places to eat, but encourage you to see the city itself during the day if you haven't gone and check out the Museo del'Opera del Duomo (next to the cathedral) and the Pinacoteca, the "picture" museum in life between meals. ←

My life is an open book, I cannot keep restaurant secrets; besides which, nobody will schlep up to the 18th. On the cook's night off I go, certainly without the papillon, to 2 Pieces Cuisine, Le Moulin de la Galette, l'Oriental + La Mascotte (without Amelie uinfortunately), and will go back to Le Voltigeur + Le Tяuc. ← I can't tell you how glad I am to get those names, and I hope to try them out soon! Thanks, John.

Those are all good suggestions. I also love Fish, and the wine shop (La Dernière Goutte) that they own. I agree with Eat that John Talbott knows his stuff, and I've happily followed his advice on many occasions. But I would argue that the recommendations from Eat qualify more as "destination eating" places than as low-key/last minute places full of locals and regulars. Perhaps I'm wrong? What I really want to know is where John Talbott eats on a weeknight, when it's too much bother to put on a bow tie and head down to the 7th. What little treasures is he sitting on up there in the 18th? As for me, I had a great time this week at Likafo in the 13th. Avenue de Choisy pretty much constitutes the Paris Chinatown. It has countless restaurants that are hard to differentiate, so word of mouth is important here. We tried Likafo after several recommendations and weren't disappointed. It's a divey little joint with laquered ducks hanging in the window and a sweaty guy spooning filling into dumplings right next to the front door. On the night we went, there was an enormous dog blocking the entrance with a tumor growing like pink bubblegum out of his head. We reserved, but upon arrival saw that many smaller parties were shuffled and tables moved in order to make space. Likafo is brisk and blaring - it's not for those who like to sit quietly and be stroked. The food is what brings people - it is invariably full, often with a wait - and it's pretty wonderful. The salt and pepper spare ribs, in particular, were great. There was another dish (the name escapes me) that prompted me to consider whether or not pork could be an acceptable base for desserts. Small bites of pig were carmelized in a sweet sauce - I wanted to spear them and pass them out like lollipops. So good. The real (pork-free) desserts aren't much to write home about, so Likafo is best followed by chocolate at home. You can get out of there for about 15 euro, with beer, or you can (like me) order far too many dishes and waddle home happily and less 25 euro. Likafo 39 avenue de Choisy 75013 Paris Métro Porte de Choisy (250 m) ; ligne : 7 +33 1 45 84 20 45 Also mentioned: La Dernière Goutte, 6 Rue de Bourbon Le Château Fish, 69 Rue de Seine

Well, if you feel that strongly about it, it's done. Yours is a second to the ringing endorsement found on Divina Cucina's fantastic website, in which she has this to say about Sergio: "Sergio Dondoli's ice cream is a winner! Not only has he won prizes; when you see his smiling face, you know he is passionate about what he does! He has created so many incredible flavors, you may have to stay here for a week to try them all!" Gelateria di Piazza Piazza della Cisterna, 4 Tel: 0577-942-244 Sergio's website is http://www.gelateriadipiazza.com/ Divina Cucina's Chianti guide is http://www.divinacucina.com/code/tuscany.html Cheers, Meg

Thanks to Robert and Carlsbad for your suggestions. I've cancelled bookings in Cinque Terre, due to the rain, and have come up with the following food itinerary, with many restaurants picked from the archives of eGullet. What do you all think of the new plan? Would you do something different? Thursday night (arrival Pisa) - dinner in Lucca at Buca di Sant'Antonio Friday - lunch in San Gimignano at Osteria le Carcere; dinner in Siena at Il Casato Saturday - lunch at Marios in Florence; dinner at Cibreo's Teatro del Sale Sunday - dunno. any suggestions for lunch in Florence on a Sunday? (depart pm) Thanks to all for your ideas. I'm happy to swap for Paris recs if you're ever in the neighborhood. Meg

Hi eGulleteers, I've thoroughly enjoyed the specific restaurant recommendations in the eGullet Italy forum - they've been extremely helpful in planning past meals and an upcoming trip. Today I have a more general question - I've planned a trip later this week to Italy and am having second thoughts after seeing that rain is predicted for each and every day. All day. Nothing but rain. I had planned to fly to Pisa, rent a car, spend two days in the Cinque Terre, 2 days in Florence (not the first time), and a day somewhere south of Florence in the Chianti region. Given the rain, the first couple of seaside days seem like a mistake. Would you, full of knowledge and love for Italy, recommend that I bag the Cinque Terre and head instead for Bologna? More time in Florence? Smaller villages by car? Remember that landscape and outdoor pleasures are sort of out, given the rain. Food, of course, ranks high, and I have no problem killing time with art and books between long meals (which is why I'm thinking of more time in cities, less time in country/sea side). Any suggestions would be sincerely appreciated, and I promise to report back with words and pictures. Best wishes, Meg

"not much luck" in the past...do you think it's not worth going? I'm considering it, but yours isn't a ringing endorsement. Can you or anybody tell us more about these events?

Salut e-gulleteers! Many birthdays, anniversaries and special nights with visitors have been enjoyed as a result of the restaurant recommendations found in the France forum. As a Paris resident, however, I'm also interested in learning about your favorite spots that are a little less extrordinary, a little more neighborhoody, and, well, cheaper. While I adore all of the "restaurants that will change your life" postings, I sometimes just want to know where to eat after work on a Tuesday night! Along these lines, it seems to me that the only way to get good information about spots in the upper arrondissements (12th 13th, 14th, 15th...17th, 18th, 19th and 20th) is by word of mouth or by word of e-Gullet. So descriptions of restos in these areas are especially (but not exclusively) valuable. I hope residents and visitors alike will chime in and benefit, and I promise to pony up with my own descriptions regularly. I'm eating tonight in Chinatown and will report back toute de suite. Cheers, Meg

I think you made a good choice sticking with your original booking in the 1st. I agree with all previous comments. Besides, none of the markets you mentioned in the 5th are close enough to Huchette to justify staying on that street. Relatively speaking, there's a lot of great stuff near your place in the 1st, and for a first visit it's really one of the most beautiful and tonic spots in Paris. And it's beautifully served by public transportation. Hope you have a great time.

A variation on this great deal are the "tickets restos" that are provided to educators in France. They work similarly - one can buy a book of tickets for half the price of the face value (7 euro). I use these all the time at neighborhood bistros (not canteens or dumps), and they're effectively a supplement to the famously low academic salaries. Viva la coupon!!

Hehe, I agree with this... My personal advice about coffee in France (and in Paris in particular) would be to pick coffee-oriented chains like Illy or Segafreddo, or places like Café de Colombie, where you'll be served only pure arabica coffee. We French have a problem with our coffee supply. Most of what you get in "troquets" (average cafes and brasseries) is brewed from robusta beans, because of our privileged commercial relationships with our former African colonies (Ivory Coast, Cameroun) that grow mostly robusta. This is a unique situation ; most European countries (with a stress on Italy) and America prefer arabica. Now, though some robustas may be drinkable, most of the time they're terribly bitter, acidic and rich in caffeine. This accounts for the characteristic (and, to me, horrid) taste of the French "petit noir". And when the espresso machine isn't properly maintained, the taste is even worse. ← Thanks so much for this explanation! I've been living and drinking coffee in Paris for a year and until now couldn't understand why the coffee here is so bitter. It's not terrible, mind you, but the difference between French and Italian coffee drinks is significant. And to respond to a comment about the quality of dairy products in France - I agree that the "high-end" milk (that you buy from a cheese/dairy shop, for example) is vastly superior to anything available in the US, but most of the troquets that ptipois mentions are using non-refrigerated chalky "milk" to make their cafe cremes, and the taste is nothing special. It's true that low-end (folgers, dunkin donuts) American coffee is nothing to brag about, but I find myself missing almost daily the kind of coffee I was able to get back in the States. A well-trained barista armed with good beans and milk and using a clean machine.....oh, how I miss it. I'm convinced, in fact, that the absence of decent coffee has driven many upstanding Parisians, including me, to increase their consumption of red wine and other alcoholic beverages. It's a terrible fate. Really.

I agree! This is one of the best spots in Paris, complete with waterfall, suspension bridge, wandering stream, crepe and ice cream vendors, pony rides and children's games, etc. Because it's across from the Mairie (administrative center for the district), there are always wedding parties and bridal parades. Very fun to watch. It's in the 19th, easily accessible from the Laumiere stop on the #5 Metro (from central Paris, go in the direction of Bobigny). On the way up avenue de Laumiere toward the park, you'll pass rue de Meaux, a wonderful market street with fruit/vegetable stalls, wine and chocolate shops, a and a terroir with saucisson sec, cheese, and small nibbles (cheese rolled in ham, olives, stuffed small peppers, etc). The terroir is just around the corner from rue de Meaux on rue du Rhin, and has a bright yellow awning. Further down rue de Meaux you'll find la flûte de Meaux with the quarter's best bread and a croissant that locals say is the "third best in France." Back on avenue Laumiere, you'll also pass Vieille France, a small pâtisserie with nice treats. There is also an organic bakery on rue de Crimee just south of rue Manin that has great bread, desserts, and individual-sized pizzas. It's a 2-minute walk from the north entrance of the park. The cafe across the street, Kascade, is a bit bobo but has decent food and a beautiful outdoor terrace for before or after the park. Their desserts are especially good, in particular a chocolate moelleux served with pistachio cream and a dollop of chocolate mousse.

She also has a website, www.patriciawells.com, that provides annual listings for her favorite restaurants (2004 is most recent). There's nothing on the website about markets and shops, which is the value of the book, but at least it's a good start. You'll probably find a lot of the information you're looking for right here on eGullet, especially if you post specific questions to the forum. Have fun!

Have a wonderful time in the 10th - it's a great and fairly unsung Paris neighborhood. Its best feature is the Canal St. Martin, so be sure to get down there when the sun breaks through the clouds. You'll find the cement banks full of Parisians sharing a picnic and a bottle, or drinking good Belgian beer in plastic cups from Le Jemmapes (82 quai Jemmapes). Head up the canal a bit where it widens into the Bassin de la Villette of the 19th and you can rent a kayak or watch the ping pong players on weekend mornings. Nearby, at Bar Ourcq, they provide folding chairs that you can set up along the canal with your drink. It's the northeastern version of Luxembourg Gardens, with throngs of people reading the paper, playing music, kids running, etc. There's also a movie theater along the banks with many english-language movies if anyone in your group needs to chill out for a while. Back along the canal in the 10th, you might enjoy: Chez Prune for a coffee or a drink. It's a bit of a (bobo/hipster) scene, but the setting along the canal can't be beat. --Chez Prune 36 r Beaurepaire La Marine for lunch or dinner. This is where we go when we need to please a lot of different tastes. A lot of seafood, but also meat and some vegetarian options on the chalkboard menu. Quite a beautiful setting, and the servers are patient and kind (if not overly welcoming by American standards). --La Marine 55, quai de Valmy Off the Canal, rue Sainte-Marthe is part of a warren of narrow winding and non-touristy streets in the 10th. There are many small bistrots and restaurants in the area, many of them specializing in ethnic cuisine. A pretty reliable french spot is Le Galopin, although word among the locals is that it's changed hands and gone downhill. Someone else mentioned that Chez Casimir has suffered the same fate, which may be true, but I've eaten there 3 times in the past couple of months and have always been pleased. They have a lovely rabbit terrine with tarragon and good monthly wines. --Le Galopin 34, rue Sainte-Marthe --Chez Casimir 6 r Belzunce I've heard a lot lately about Tesoro d'italia for Italian cuisine, although I haven't tried it yet. It's at 49 Rue du Paradis. Not far from you in the 11th is Bistrot Paul Bert. It's well-known among people who live here but I don't read about it much. A Time Out Paris food critic recommended it to me recently for a celebration. You'll need a reservation. --Bistrot Paul Bert 18 r Paul Bert 75011 Tel: 01 43 72 24 01 Finally, if you want ethnic food you should get over to the 20th and the Belleville neighborhood. You'll find plenty by just walking along rue de Belleville (including street food and markets), but if you want a destination I highly recommend Krung Thep. It's a Thai restaurant and is always packed despite never (as far as I know) being written up. You'll need a reservation, which they will give away if you show up more than 10 minutes late. It's just off of rue de Belleville, and you can get there easily from the 10th using Metro line 2 or the 46 bus. --Krung Thep 93 rue Julien Lacroix 75020 Tel: 01 43 66 83 74 Have fun, and I hope you write about your eating adventures when you return home. --Meg

Thanks! I suppose it's all processed, since it doesn't drift off the cane in granular form. But I think turbinado is from the "first pressing," before they remove the molasses that, as David Lebovitz says in his posting, is subsequently put back in to make what Americans know as "brown sugar." Cassonade in France, as far as I can tell, is no different from the turbinado or "Raw Sugar" that I used in the States. I've never substituted cassonade/turbinado in recipes that call for US-style brown sugar (like for the oatmeal brown sugar cookies I adore), but someone on this thread said it's fine so I'll give it a try. Meg

You can find turbinado sugar in the bulk section or baking section of most co-ops in the U.S. It's definately at Whole Foods. At coffee shops, you see it in those little brown packets called "Raw Sugar." Good luck!

I think that brunch, like Mexican food, has assumed an almost mythical significance for many Americans living in Paris. We want it because we can't (really) have it, and we forget what slop it really is. Don't get me wrong: I adore slop, but in a very particular context. Brunch and Mexican food are, in the States, things you can have cheaply, at odd hours, and when you're not entirely sober. Diving into a vinyl booth and talking elbows-on-the-table as you entertain refill after refill (coffee, tortilla chips...) - these are the things I miss. In Paris, these are the things that are missing when you go out for brunch and Mexican. And the french versions, because they are "incorrect," over-priced, or just plain bad (in the case of most Parisian Mexican food), do little to cure what's really ailing you - that you miss the informality and comfort of home. These days when nostalgia hits I'm much more likely to invite friends over and ply them with coffee and hash browns chez nous. As for Mexican food: I've had to let it go. But the informality and price that I associate with taquerias back home can be found all over Belleville in the small and lovely North African joints. In Paris, one adapts. In lieu of a diner, now I have Sunday mornings in Luxembourg Gardens or the Buttes Chaumont. Soggy bacon can be recreated at home while I save my money for the real treasures to be found in French restaurants. The great conversations happen while lingering en terrasse over a long late-afternoon apero. The elbows are off the table, and don't even think of asking for a refill, but it ain't half-bad. --Meg