Tom Gandey

should let your comments pass, but just can't. its clear u either have an "ax" re: this bistro, which is ok; or, more likely, u have a very myopic view of not only "tout le monde", but of those who frequent this bistro. your comments are so off-base, it would be a waste of time to spend any time refuting or enlightening you. its probably better to let u wallow in your own brand of s_______y (fill n the blank if u're intellectually capable) ← I don't think so. Pierre's comments are very objective with only the slightest amount of subjectivity. You notice how he doesn't comment on the quality of the ingredients (which no one can argue is great) and the only "knock" is that Pierre doesn't sound like he agrees with the lofty prices. Bravo for Pierre for telling it like it is. L'Ami Louis might be the world's greatest bistro, but he is giving you the insight into what to expect and for that he must be congratulated.

You would be surprised how sweet (for Tannat) the tannins are on the '01 Montus. Its a total baby but it gushing with ripe berry, tar, licorice and the kind of earthiness you generally can't find in $30(CAD) bottles. I might have a case left and I don't know if I will be able to keep my hands off it long enough to reach any type of maturity. Agreed on the BD, it seems to have quite a bit of ripe CF and doesn't come across as a typical Madiran.

I agree with your assessment of the wine, but what I was trying to point out is that Madiran can offer so much more if it is asked. While it did have fruit/tannin, the overripeness (or lack of acidity, depending on how you look at it) did detract from my enjoyment of it. I think Randall is trying to put the spotlight on underappreciated (read: high margin) varietals by using witty marketing gimmicks. He wants to appeal to a mass-audience, therefore he is forced to lean towards new world winemaking. I'm in the marketing business and I think he does a great job of getting people to try new things. Honestly, how many people outside "the biz" do you know that can decipher a French/German winelabel? Not knocking your selection as I think it suits braised dishes very well and I forget that your job as a sommelier is not only to introduce people to new things, but to offer something with mass appeal. Have a 6L of '88 Bouscasse VV in the cellar, what are you doing tomorrow?

Tasted about half and half to me. I guess they are trying to help Tannat/Madiran appeal to a wider audience.

Sarah, I think many Madiran have some CS in the blend to make it softer (sic). Some even include a small percentage of CF as well. Bonny Doon is really great at introducing people to under appreciated grapes and apparently they have done it again... Amazing what you can get people to try if you market it properly!

I had it for the first time last Friday at JK as well. Curious, I figured I would give it a shot and I what I tasted wasn't Madiran, but an overripe new world wine that tasted only loosely of Tannat. Your Australian Shiraz example is right on the money, its just big and non-descript. You should be able to pickup Montus readily in the UK. Look for the 2001 which is an absolute monster but is still somehow balanced. Expect loads of black-fruit, earth, licorice along with good acidity and a ton of sweet tannin. Excellent wine at an even better price.

I don't think anyone that actually loves food can write a truly objective review about any restaurant. The fact that locals may be friends with the chef or be some way biased as a matter of culinary pride are color peoples assessments. I could tell you that Eigensinn Farm has the best food in Canada, but you would take that with a grain of salt because I'm from Toronto. If 5 people from outside Canada told you the same thing, you would be inclined to believe them, wouldn't you?

Perhaps worth another try... I guess every place can have an off night. I've had a mediocre meal at Auberge d'Ill and a downright horrible one at Bouley, but yet people I know and trust when it comes to food tell me that I might just be horribly unlucky. As for Per Se, I had a meal there last month that was very good but certainly not up to his usual high standards. One more chance, then its 2 strikes and he's out

I think Randall has many interesting wines, but what made you choose his Tannat over something like a Montus or Bouscasse? It tastes reminiscent of Tannat, but I hardly think it is a good example of it or Madiran. In any event, its good to get people drinking new things and I think wines in that vein work really well with many of the dishes there.

We had to re-eat lunch after an iffy lunch at Sassafraz (we were shopping with the wives and headed down after they went to the hotel to nap before dinner) 3 dips, the terrine, and something else I don't recall but drank a great Rolly Gassmann gerwurtz, a fuedo di san gregorio fiano, and my buddy had a loire white and a morgan pinot I believe. ← 3 dips One more person adding to the air pollution in the wine bar, it can be a little overpowering sometimes!

BlueHill and Masa behind Toque? (both use ingredients far superior to Toque) Susur the best restaurant in Toronto? Susur uses mediocre ingredients considering his exhalted status here. A great chef and even better businessman that watches the bottom-line by sourcing cheaper, not better. I don't claim to be an expert in Quebec cheeses, but I have had my fair share. I cannot comment on Kenogami as I have yet to have it. As I said, Quebec makes many excellent cheeses. BlueHill is hardly known as one of the best restaurants in NYC, many people haven't even heard of it. I specifically included BlueHill so people didn't accuse me of merely reciting the restaurants everyone knows and respects. As for Le Bernadin, I can say I have dined there maybe a dozen times and only had a mediocre meal once. Eric is omnipresent, he sources the best ingredients and unfathomably talented. If its so disappointing, why do you punish yourself by going back? "When Normand is into it". He's a restauranteur and chef, if he isn't always "into it" he should find a new profession. Based solely on what I was served I found it to be a very cruel joke. Next time I'm in town I will have one of the restaurant's purveyors call to make the reservation for me, ensure Normand will be there and re-evaluate. Toque one of the best restaurants in the world? The place would never receive even a single Michelin star!

At the very least, I'm glad you enjoyed the foie gras... definitely top-notch, even on my visit. I don't know what he does to it, but I suspect it gets some sort of salt cure before the final preperation. In any case, I'm glad you experienced it as it was the only positive impression I had about the experience. Do you think the level of execution is on the level of Tallievent? I find this one a severe stretch. I don't particularily care for Tallievent because it has an old and staid menu, but I certainly find it has top-notch technical execution no matter which chef M. Vrinat chooses. I don't feel Toque deserves similar praise. Perhaps I was there in a rough time for the Chef (while he had his NYC resto). I will let a few more brave (non-local) souls report back before I chance that one again though Looking forward to the full report and feel free to send me some of Armandino's salumi (yum) That is one place I wish we had in Toronto... his stuff is great. Curious though, have you tried his mole and what do you think of it?

http://www.localwineevents.com/Toronto-Wine/ Doesn't have everything obviously, but a start.

Hi Gordon, I'm a Winetasters member, but unfortunately all of their tastings are held on Wed. They have the occassional special dinner on weekends (actually, they aren't that special), but every event worth going to IMNSHO takes place on a weekday. If you can make it down on a weekday, they have a special wine tasting at Casa Loma every year around Christmas. Lots of excellent and interesting wines at an extremely reasonable price point. www.winetasters.on.ca

I will be looking forward to your evaluation. But if I may ask a few questions? Was Chef Laprise in the house? What night did you visit on / how full was the resto? When you say it wasn't cutting edge, how technically perfect was the execution (ie: Pacaud, Keller, McDonalds, Burger King)? I am interested on your take regarding the restaurant, and moreover if you would return. I'm assuming you had some good tomato dishes (they are really good in late Sept there)?

I'm sure I came off as harsh, but that is because I felt so burned by my meal at Toque. I went in with fairly high expectations and everything from the front of the house attitude to the miniscule unbalanced portions of largely mediocre ingredients just elevated my blood pressure. Now when someone mentions Toque and the THOUGHT of wasting their time and money there. Abrasive or passionately opinionated well-intentioned person of few words? My only reward is saving you the disappointment. You are a big girl and can make up your own mind, but consider yourself warned

Calling Toque! "crap" is clear, concise and unfortunately... correct. I know precisely why Cena closed as his close friend Daniel Vezina (owner of Laurie Raphael in QC) told me... the investors pulled the plug because they were only doing half of the revenue they needed to make it fly. Maybe you should do a little bit of travelling. Like I said, Montreal is an excellent food city... but it certainly isn't a city with compelling restaurants.

Don't waste your time, go eat Capra's food at Mistura.

Kaji is the hands down best. My biggest gripe about Kaji is their abalone is consistantly far too small/tough, not much sense in offering "luxury" ingredients that aren't worth the space they take in your stomach. Other than that, fish quality is certainly far better than any in the city and Kaji's 2nd in command Takeshi Okada is also an excellent chef in his own right. If its in the budget, make sure you get the omakase and sit at bar, he will take care of you

Yes, there are many places that I like, but not very many of them are in Toronto. I agree it would have been a better post leaving out the first paragraph, but I'm grasping for straws when it comes to food around here! Montreal? Please, I am the first person to say that I love Schwartz' and also the first to say the raw ingredients available to chefs there are very good, but the majority of the restaurants do not reflect what is available to them (Toque and Anise come to mind as highly touted places that wouldn't even get 2 forks in Michelin). NYC is less than an hour away and I can go to the likes of Jean Georges, Per Se, Le Bernadin, Blue Hill, Masa? Don't want high priced? How about Peter Luger, Barney Greengrass, Shake Shack, Papaya King or have a nice Hebrew National hot dog from a cart. I simply love food and seek the best wherever I go, at all price points. I'm always willing to try new things out, which is why after a post from Gordon (on another board), Perigee is now on my to-do-list. This is a food forum and I am offering my opinion, feel free to embrace or ignore it. ← I urge you to give Perigee a try - most recent meals can be found here and here ← Absolutely. Expect a review on Steve's board within the coming months. I will have their cheese supplier give them a call to make sure Pat is aware of how critical I am

Does that mean its still bad? I had a meal there last year that was atrocious and was dissapointed even though the meal was free (AMEX GCs). Poor ingredient quality, poor execution and conception. ← Compared to a year ago - my meal late spring was at least 50% better - on par with what Mark McEwan & Thuet used to do and all of what Anthony Walsh is capable of - Best Sablefish I had all year (incl Susur) ← Have you had sablefish at Starfish? That was the best I have experienced in Toronto and proves that Patrick is commited to quality (as well as having a chef that can prepare it). All Bonacini/McEwan restaurants are about the money. They will cut corners wherever they think than can get away with it to save money. They are money before passion. I am of the "build it, they will come philosophy" which Statlander proves is viable. But you probably know that Eigensinn won't serve Sablefish because its from the West Coast. He is all about the best of what is available for IMMEDIATE consumption in all its glory. The best black cod has to be in WA/BC/AK somewhere, I just have to find it. Someone please help

I haven't been to Crush, but you will really like Starfish. Patrick (the owner) knows great shellfish and you will be able to find excellent oysters, scallops and lobster there. All simple preperations, but sometimes simple is better. Regarding cheese, they are several cheeses from Quebec that are VG->Excellent: Bouq d'Emissaire (ashed goat, raw milk) Pied du Vent (washed rind cow, raw milk) Migneron de Charlevoix (washed rind pressed cow, pasteurized) Chateau d'Iberville (washed rind cow, raw milk) Cheddar you are better of getting from a good purveyor like Neals Yard in England although there are some decent raw milk cheddars from Quebec that might do in a pinch. Happy eating.

Yes, there are many places that I like, but not very many of them are in Toronto. I agree it would have been a better post leaving out the first paragraph, but I'm grasping for straws when it comes to food around here! Montreal? Please, I am the first person to say that I love Schwartz' and also the first to say the raw ingredients available to chefs there are very good, but the majority of the restaurants do not reflect what is available to them (Toque and Anise come to mind as highly touted places that wouldn't even get 2 forks in Michelin). NYC is less than an hour away and I can go to the likes of Jean Georges, Per Se, Le Bernadin, Blue Hill, Masa? Don't want high priced? How about Peter Luger, Barney Greengrass, Shake Shack, Papaya King or have a nice Hebrew National hot dog from a cart. I simply love food and seek the best wherever I go, at all price points. I'm always willing to try new things out, which is why after a post from Gordon (on another board), Perigee is now on my to-do-list. This is a food forum and I am offering my opinion, feel free to embrace or ignore it.

Since when does a foodie have to be a literary scholar?

Does that mean its still bad? I had a meal there last year that was atrocious and was dissapointed even though the meal was free (AMEX GCs). Poor ingredient quality, poor execution and conception.