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Everything posted by eje
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I had always assumed that the tendency of firms to adjust the proofs of their liquors downward was a modern thing. However, when I visited the Museum of Brands and Packaging in London, (conveniently within stumbling distance of both Montgomery Place and The Lonsdale,) they had several displays of liquor bottles and cocktail paraphenalia from the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s, and 60s. A cool museum based on the collection of a gentleman named Robert Opie, they had bottled cocktails, shakers and pitchers, and all sorts of other fun things organized by decade. So sad to see the exuberance and excitement of the 20s and 30s give way to ration books, propaganda, and blitz balloons of the 30s and 40s. I noticed, though, that, in all cases, the liquor bottles in the cases (Scotch, Brandy, Gin...) were 70 proof or 35% ABV. I also noticed that much of the Gin and Vodka currently on sale in the UK is slightly less than 80 proof. Unless you are buying "Export Proof", 37.5% ABV seems a common number. Would Ian Fleming have been drinking cocktails based on overproof gin or underproof gin?
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Well, Juleps were "breakfast" drinks, were they not? Ahem, if you were getting actual brandy, and not Mr. Thomas' signature "Essence of Cognac"!
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Wow! Thanks for typing that up, David. So the "wine cooler" is then synonymous with the "wine spritzer"?
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Well, I believe all you would have to do is instigate a no camera, (and while you're at it no cell phone,) policy, and Bob's your uncle, if it's that important to yourself and Mr. Blumenthal. Sure, some people might try to sneak in Minox cameras, and the like, to document the delicate proceedings; but, the more blatant violations could be eradicated without much effort on the restaurant's part. Personally, while I find the use of flash distracting, I don't really think restaurant photography is that big a deal, as long as the photographer is at least trying to be discreet. It is mostly the photographer's own dining experience which is being "destroyed" by making the effort to document it with pictures.
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Though, I think the truly "classic" recipe includes the lime hull, no? Build over ice, 2 oz Gin, juice of 1/2 lime, drop the hull in, stir, top with soda.
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Why the current issue of Imbibe Magazine has a Dr. Cocktail column on this very subject! Includes much historical information. He prefers the unsweetened version. Unfortunately, it is not available on their website.
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If any of you read (or write) blogs which cover cocktails, you might know that Paul over at Cocktail Chronicles has been organizing a monthly online cocktail event he calls Mixology Mondays. This month's event is being hosted Matt over on his blog My Bar, Your Bar blog. The theme is Tequila Cocktails. To quote Matt: If you would like to participate, please write up any cocktail made with Tequila in this topic before Monday, May 14th at midnight. I will compile a list of cocktails that are posted and mail them to the organizer. I would post some exciting exclamation in Spanish here, if I hadn't learned that nearly every expression my "friends" taught me is embarrassingly vulgar.
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Embury, in "The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks", gives his 7 specific tips for successful Juleps. I've slightly edited them, and include one of the three Julep recipes from the book below. My god, but he could be a particular cuss. The very definition of a bar bore. He's certainly no Judge J. Soule Smith!
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Well, he's saying to use some sort of "large bar-glass", make a cocktail in the glass, and then "shake" it in the glass, and then strain it into another glass. I dunno how you could do that, unless you employed something like a Boston Shaker. Did "shake" or "bar-glass" mean something else back then? I dunno about back then or NY; but, I don't think anyone started drinking beer out of tempered pint glasses in Wisconsin until the 1990s. Strictly those thin 12 oz glasses when I was growing up. Mugs, if you were lucky enough to go to a German Bar or restaurant. Weren't the tempered bar glasses behind the bar as mixing glasses first, and then put to use for serving beer, later?
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I'm not 100% sure that a "large bar-glass" didn't refer to the glass portion of a boston shaker or similar. For example, in the Coffee Cocktail, the instructions seem to indicate to build the drink and shake in a "large bar-glass", then strain into a "medium bar goblet". Other cocktails served in the same "large bar-glass" they are mixed in include punches and cobblers.
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Yep, I doubt Mr. Thomas was using Speakeasy Pint glasses, too. However, I seem to recall either Chas Baker or David Embury recommending a julep glass no smaller than 14 ounces. I'll have to track down the reference when I get home tonight. Anyone know what specific glassware "Large Bar Glass" might refer to? Double Old-Fashioned?
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Well, at least you are starting by saying you enjoy Gin! That gets you some points! The Margarita, the Daiquiri, and the Sidecar are all three ingredient cocktails that are worth knowing and mastering. The unfortunate part is, unless you've gone to a bar that bothers squeezing the lime or lemon juice to order, you've probably not had a proper version of these cocktails, and think they are over sweet blender drinks. The Margarita is simply tequila (be sure and use a decent 100% agave tequila!), Cointreau, and lime juice. Can be shaken and served up, or on the rocks. Salt rim is optional. Say 2 oz of Tequila, 1 oz Cointreau, and 1 oz lime as a starting point. If it's too sweet, reduce the Cointreau. If it is too sour, reduce the lime. The Sidecar is Brandy, lemon juice, and Cointreau. It is usually shaken and served up. Sugar rim is optional. The sidecar usually uses basically the same proportions as the Margarita. 2 oz brandy, 1 oz Cointreau, and 1 oz lemon. The Daiquiri is even more basic than the previous 2 cocktails. Think of it as a Rum Gimlet. Rum, fresh lime juice, and sugar (or simple syrup). Also, usually shaken and served up. 2 oz rum, juice 1/2 lime, 1 teaspoon superfine sugar.
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Interesting that Thomas seems to garnish the drink with the bruised mint, not to mention "berries and small pieces of sliced orange". Is there an illustration of the proper garnish for a julep in the book? Maybe my glass wasn't so outsized, after all!
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Yeah, I don't have any 8oz tumblers which would work with any of my mixing tins. Guess I could have just mixed and poured into a glass. Next time, proper glasses and proper mint!
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I'd say most pieces are on average pencil eraser size, some smaller. Small enough to get sucked up in the pictured straw, anyway. I don't think they are quite sno-cone size; though, it's been years since I've had one. Nowhere near shave ice. Probably not fine enough for juleps.
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Swing-A-Way Ice Crusher (Amazon Link) This one works pretty well for me. The big pro, is, it has a decent size hopper which holds over a pint of ice.
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Hmmm... Well, slkinsey seems to be advocating something almost as fine as shaved ice. I've seen some julep recipes that do recommend pre-freezing julep glasses full of shaved ice, and then pouring the chilled, mint flavored whiskey over the ice, sort of like Sno-Cones (or Hawaiian Shave Ice). I think Embury had a couple particularly elaborate methods like that. I've never had much luck with pounding the ice inside a tea towel. Ice goes flying everywhere, worried cats hiding under the bed, etc. For these sorts of things, I usually just use my manual ice crusher, turning the handle the "fine" way, instead of the "coarse" way. Not that I can really tell the difference between the size of the ice with either direction.
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Here's a picture of my first attempt at the Brandy (Pierre Ferrand Ambre) Julep, following the Wondrich simple 10-Step method. It was actually quite tasty, grapefruit mint aside. Can't wait to try one with old fashioned aromatic spearmint.
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Tried this with my currently only surviving mint, which unfortunately is Grapefruit Mint. I have to say, I was under-impressed. Not with the procedure; but, with the mint. It's too weird and vegetal. Not minty-aromatic enough. Off to the plant store, tomorrow, to get a couple proper mint plants.
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Could you be more specific what you are looking for? A gift? To drink now? To accompany a specific dish? Under that price range, you could get a fine Tawny Port, any one of the Non-Vintage ports, (like the 6 Grapes busboy mentions,) from the major producers, or a Late Bottled Vintage Port.
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Digest and 96 Hours section, Friday, May 4, 2007 The wine mechanics, Tim Teichgraeber Wine Business Insider: Brown-Forman cuts staff again, Cyril Penn THE SIPPING NEWS: In our glasses What your Tequila says about you Sip and slurp Governator declares September as wine month Wine Country hikes Spirits: Trot out a Kentucky drinking tradition for Derby Day, Fred Thompson Recipe: Chris Morris' Mint Julep Letters to Wine: Turning water into wine in Paso Pairings: Nothing too fishy about pairing salmon and Pinot Noir, Joyce Goldstein Recipe: Roast Pork Loin with Almonds, Garlic & Sherry-Shallot Cream Chronicle Wine Selections: Chardonnay from Napa Valley and its subappellations, W. Blake Gray The Cheese Course: Gariotin ripens from the outside in, Janet Fletcher 96 Hours Bar Bites: Three Degrees, Amanda Gold "Part of the Lodge at Tiburon -- a quaint hotel just off Main Street in the waterfront town -- this mellow bar provides a social gathering spot for locals and hotel guests. The decor reflects the lodgelike sensibility seen in the rest of the building, punctuated with stacked stone columns, Craftsman-style tables and chairs, and handsome leather bar stools. Flat-screen TVs flank either side of the backlit bar area, where patrons sip martinis and glasses of wine while feasting on a wide selection of interesting small and larger plates, most of which can also be found on the restaurant's menu." Bargain Bite: La Torta Gorda, Jane Tunks "The new location of the beloved Mexican sandwich shop La Torta Gorda is the latest addition to grace this gastronomic main drag. The 3-month-old restaurant is a step up from its humble beginnings -- a barebones kitchen with a window that opened onto the street and a sidewalk "dining room" consisting of a few plastic tables and chairs."
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Buds Special Cocktail 1 Dash Angostura Bitters 1/3 Sweet Cream (3/4 oz Whipping Cream) 2/3 Cointreau (1 1/2 oz Cointreau) Stir (What? Shake! -eje) well and strain into cocktail glass. I guess I had an idle hope that this would be something like a Creamsicle in drink form. Hopes dashed, down the sink after a couple sips. Bleah! Bud, man, what were you thinking?
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You mean things like "Remsen Coolers"? They're pretty much just extra-large, extra-sweet highballs, garnished with citrus peels, aren't they? For a second there I was thinking they would be 1940s drinks. But, apparently, the Remsen Cooler appears in Bullock's Ideal Bartender from 1917. Project Gutenberg link
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Boy, it really seems like Mint Juleps are the cocktail of the moment! Trot out a Kentucky drinking tradition for Derby Day, Fred Thompson The author includes a julep recipe from Chris Morris, Master Distiller and Spirits Historian at Woodford Reserve. Hmmm... He promotes the unfortunate "muddle mint to a paste" school of Julep making.
