eje

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Digest and 96 Hours section, Friday, May 17, 2007 Business: Chronicle to cut 25% of jobs in newsroom, Joe Garofoli Doon north, Jon Bonné THE ESSENTIALS: Germany's secret Rieslings, Steve Pitcher THE SIPPING NEWS: The flying winemaker Who's best behind the bar? Hurry up and aerate The Rosé Avengers think pink at their annual Pink Out! Bottling Carolina moonshine In our glasses Letters to Wine: Mike Grgich as Napa underdog New Wine Country: Washington's Olympic Peninsula, Cyril Penn Wineries staking their claim on Red Mountain, Jon Bonné Pairings: Smoked trout salad for a grape with two names, Joyce Goldstein Recipe: Smoked Trout with Horseradish Cream Chronicle Wine Selections: West Coast Pinot Gris/Grigio, W. Blake Gris (not Grigio) Spirits: Bar crawl celebrates local mixologists, Amanda Berne The Cheese Course: From la belle France, a goat's milk blue that ages gracefully, Janet Fletcher The Tasting Room: Island spirits, Jane Tunks 96 Hours Bar Bites: Luka's Taproom, Karen Reardanz "A hit in the up-and-coming Uptown district since it opened more than two years ago, Luka's Taproom is proof that if you provide quality food and pour a fine drink, people will come. Bustling from the time the doors open until last call, this bar/restaurant is a welcoming spot whether you're looking to sip a martini and slurp a few oysters after work or you want to shake it on the dance floor at one of the DJ nights. Vestiges from previous longtime occupant, the Hofbrau, remain in the form of art and signs displayed in the pool room." Bargain Bite: Caffe Museo, Laura Compton "San Francisco's South of Market neighborhood is Museum Central -- SFMOMA, Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, Museum of the African Diaspora, California Academy of Sciences' Steinhart Aquarium, Museum of Craft and Folk Art, Cartoon Art Museum, and SF Camerawork are within five minutes of one another -- but the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art remains the epicenter. As befits Mario Botta's iconic building, Caffe Museo offers a convenient, stylish place to stop and refuel."

Byrrh Cassis 1 Glass Byrrh (2 oz Byrrh 1875 Rare Assemblage) 1/2 Glass Creme de Cassis (1 oz Brizard Cassis de Bordeaux) Use medium size glass and fill up with soda water. (Garnish with lemon peel. -eje) Sorry for the bad picture! I took several, they all looked OK on the back of the camera. Sadly, this one was the best, when examined on the computer. Kind of sweet; but, perfectly tasty, if you like flavors like Cassis.

A lot of us here are not professional bartenders, simply enthusiasts who have been bitten by one aspect or another of the culture and flavors which surround bar tending and cocktails. I was wondering when home bar tending really took off in the US. Thinking about movies, it seems like, pre-prohibition, the epitome of the sophisticated drinker was somebody out at a fancy club in New York, Paris, or London. Post-Prohibition, the epitome of sophisticated drinker becomes someone like Nick Charles in the "Thin Man" movies. Someone able to mix their own cocktails at home, and expound upon the virtues and philosophies of the proper cocktail. Questions: When did it become possible for citizens to easily purchase liquor for home use? At what point did something like the modern liquor store begin to exist? When did the Tavern, a social gathering place centered around drink, become the bar?

I think the constituent of Byrrh is this one. That is, Jateorhiza calumba rather than Frasera carolinensis. The former seems to have more Latin names than Elizabeth Taylor has had husbands, and among other things is used in cases of arsenic poisoning. Who knew? ← Oh, good point. Probably not going to want to use one that is a cathartic and emetic, eh?

I paid around $23 from Hi-Times. Poking around this AM, I discovered they do appear to have 2 products, the standard Byrrh, and the Byrrh 1875 Rare Assemblage. Dunno if regular one is more highly spiced than the special Rare Assemblage bottlings. It is described here: Google Translation of the description is in line with mine: Columbo is another bitter herb. Columbo (botanical.com link)

Wow, pretty successful Mixology Monday this month! Thanks to everybody for contributing! I'm looking forward to trying some of these in the near future. Here's the Round Up over at My Bar, Your Bar: Tequila Monday!

Bar crawl celebrates local mixologists, Amanda Berne SF Chronicle article about the first annual (I hope!) San Francisco Cocktail Week.

Dubonnet Rouge has a much heavier spice/bitter note. If there are spices in this Byrrh (are there others?), they are very subtle. Tasted straight the flavors were most similar to a very light style port. If this bottle is typical, I would say something like the Warre's Warrior Porto mentioned in the previous cocktail, would be a better substitute than Dubonnet Rouge. Though, the port is still both sweeter and heavier, so probably be best to slightly increase the ratio of dry vermouth to Byrrh, in that theoretical cocktail. Also, while Dubonnet is fine, it's not something I would really choose to sit down and drink a glass of. On the other hand, I would be perfectly happy drinking a lightly chilled glass of the Byrrh, before or after dinner. It's quite tasty. RE: Locating it. I canvassed most of the specialty liquor stores here, and got the usual, "What? Could you repeat that?" and, "We'll see if we can special order it, sir." I finally ordered both the Byrrh and Canton Ginger Liqueur Hi-Time Wines in Costa Mesa. The folks at Hi-Times are great. The funny thing was, the local courier they used couldn't seem to find my house. After the order got sent back to Costa Mesa once, I finally arranged to pick it up at the distribution center the next time Hi-Times shipped it up. Unfortunately, I don't see either Byrrh or Canton Ginger Liqueur currently listed on their website. You might want to call, though. After I mail ordered it, I did see a bottle of the same Byrrh at Wine Impressions on California in San Francisco.

I'm ambivalent about the light box. It makes it seem like things are floating in space. I kind of like the other characters in my shots. The Alton Brown Salt Cellar, Bee House Butter dish, assorted fruits, bottles, and the saint candle. I was talking to the folks from Married with Dinner about their Friday Cocktail shots. They told me that they are sticklers for natural light, so they make the cocktails Friday morning before they go to work, stick them in the fridge, then drink them when they come home. More discipline than I could muster. Byrrh Cocktail 1/3 French Vermouth (1 oz Noilly Prat) 1/3 Canadian Club Whisky (1 oz 40 Creek Barrel Select) 1/3 Byrrh (1 oz Byrrh 1875 Rare Assemblage) Shake (stir - eje) well and strain into cocktail glass Holy crap, is this good! It tastes like a high proof, delicious burgundy* wine. I've read descriptions of Byrrh that said it tastes a like Italian Vermouth. It doesn't, really. It tastes more like a light and not very sweet port. Of all the cocktails I've made so far from the Savoy, this one seems the most dangerous. It doesn't taste strong at all, it seems like you're drinking a slightly sweet glass of wine. *By Burgundy here, I mean a fine wine from the French wine producing region of Burgundy, not the stuff that comes in jugs.

re: 4, Didn't really mean a hard, long shake, like you would use for a fizz. I was trying to differentiate between the gentle circular stirring for things like Martini's and Manhattans and the more churning style of stirring of the ingredients in a julep. Perhaps "vigorous" is the wrong word? Though, I am going to try the exciting pouring between mixing tins method in the very near future!

I can't find the eGullet topic about making your own sodas; but, cdh, don't you use some sort of home carbonation system? I know there is this thing: Fountain Jet

Reading through this topic again from the beginning again last night, let me see if I have properly synthesized the Julep as a generic drink category: 1) The Julep should involve some sort of flavored syrup (julab), preferably made a la minute and not cooked. 2) The alcohol can be anything from Champagne to Bourbon. 3) The ice used should be very fine, almost like snow. 4) It should be mixed vigorously. 5) It should have a pleasantly aromatic and attractive garnish. It's even better if the garnish's flavor ties in to the flavor of the syrup (julab). 6) It should be served in a large-ish receptacle, at least 12 oz. If it is not in a large receptacle, it is a Smash, or, "Julep on a small plan." 7) Since the ice is fine, and the alcohol is not typically chilled before being mixed in, it is nice if the serving receptacle is pre-chilled. 8) The Julep doesn't usually involve citrus, except possibly as a garnish. Of George's originnal quotes, the one from "The Quadroon" was the most fun for me to re-read. The chapter of the book starts here, A Scientific Julep (Google Books Link) and contains some amusingly romantic descriptions of both the bar and barkeep.

Yeah, I'm with you there. I was really surprised by how light in style the Warre's Warrior Port is. I doubt I'd buy it again. It just happens to be the port I have in the house right now. I should probably use it to poach fruit or something, just to get rid of it, so I can buy a different bottle. Maybe this weekend... Though, that said, as light as the Warre's was, port was the dominant element in the drink. Also, the Byculla was a very nice dark purple color, which is pretty unusual in cocktails. (Note to self: figure out some way to do back lighting, so the colors of the drinks are highlighted more accurately in the pictures.)

Byculla Cocktail 1 Liqueur Glass Ginger (3/4 oz Canton Ginger Liqueur) 1 Liqueur Glass Curacao (3/4 oz Brizard Orange Curacao) 1 Liqueur Glass Port (3/4 oz Warre's Warrior Port) 1 Liqueur Glass Sherry (3/4 oz Lustau Don Nuno Dry Oloroso) Shake (stir - eje) well and strain into cocktail glass. Too sweet to be anything other than a dessert cocktail. I like the flavor combination, though. Definitely filed away for future use. Byculla appears to have been a popular neighborhood with the British of Mumbai (Bombay) from a period of around 1800 to the 1890. Race Track, Clubs, that sort of thing. So decadent, that there was even a famous Byculla Soufflé:

One thing I didn't see noted, is that I don't think bars price out every drink to reflect its exact cost. Isn't it, more or less, a single price for a rail cocktails, another price for cocktails with call brands, and then another set for exceptions, like extremely expensive Cognacs and Whisk(e)ys. It seems like there has to be a range of costs for cocktails within those categories, and some cocktails are going to be big money makers, and others not.

Well, we've talked about Pour Costs, before. More recently, I wondered about the Cost of Cocktails in historical terms. There's even this ancient topic, What's Behind that $15 Martini? which covers much of the same ground. Not to be judgmental or anything; but, if you're buying a Grey Goose or Ketel One Martini (or even better, "French Martini",) you've already passed beyond the pale for me. To me, calling for premium vodka is, pure and simple, a status or appearance thing, and if you're doing it at a hotel, upscale restaurant, or bar in Manhattan, (Chicago, San Francisco, London...) and then complaining about the price, uh, well, maybe you should have stayed home with the kids. Is that too harsh?

The Fever Tree products have finally started showing up in California, thanks to the efforts of Beverages and More. Tonic Water, Ginger Ale, Bitter Lemon, and Club Soda. I can't wait to try the Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon. Of course at over $5 (US retail) for a 4 pack of 6oz bottles, they are pretty expensive per ounce. I'm thinking finally working out that home-made tonic water recipe, might not be a horrible idea. Stirrings also has a new line of cocktail sodas, including Bitter Lemon, Tonic Water, Pink Grapefruit, Club Soda, Pink Grapefruit, and Tart Cranberry. My homies over at Married with Dinner were not too keen on the Stirrings Tonic. Has anyone tried either of these brands?

jsmeeker, They sound great to me. I've been experimenting with them myself this year. It's funny, as up until this year, I'd only had others make them for me. I'd always sort of assumed that infusing the syrup or bourbon was an OK way to go about it. That's what my friends had always done, and they are bourbon fanatics. In this case, the drink does become about the mint. When you lightly crush the mint and remove it, and then just have the mint garnish on top, for scent, the drink becomes all about the bourbon. Now, I feel bad about my advice above! I'm the first to admit I'm still figuring the julep out, and will confess I have a small preference for things like DeGroff's Whiskey Smash, with a bit of lemon muddled in there, or the tequila thing I made with pineapple and a touch of lime. But, if anyone wants to have me over for a plain bourbon julep in a silver cup, I'm certainly game. Hmmm... I wonder if being used in a julep would break the wild horse that is the George T. Stagg 2006 bourbon? It was pretty good on fire. How would taste at the other extreme? Also, haven't quite figured out my ice situation. Since I spent my cocktail equipment allowance this month on a swank new bar-spoon and muddler from Mr. Mojito, instead of sending off to the nice folks at Ultimate Bar Chef, I think I might wash a canvas grocery bags a few times, and then turn it inside out. Seems like it should work as a substitute for a lewis bag.

well, there is an in-n-out in santa rosa (well, rohnert park, but close enough), so what else does one need??? ← Just about nothing, since you've also got one of the best small breweries on the West Coast: Russian River Brewing I'd also easily put them in the top 10 Brewers of Belgian Style ale in the US...

Any exciting tales of World Cocktail Day adventures? Or are you still sleeping off your hangovers? I got so caught up in making bizarre, julep-like concoctions that I completely forget to even have a real "Cock-tail"! I coulda at least put some bitters in my julep, if I'd been thinking!

I've been intruiged by Juleps lately. The confluence of Derby Day and Cinqo de Mayo this year, allowed some interesting variations, including a Tequila Julep. On the DrinkBoy, a gentleman who calls himself "Theurbanbartender" documented an inspired sounding Pineapple Julep. That also sounded really awesome. I was thinking I might combine the ideas! However, when I was waiting for the bus the other day, I noticed an hispanic gentleman eating what appeared to be pineapple in some sort of red chile sauce. I remembered that sweet and spice are not necessarily exclusive values in Latin culture. Now I had an idea that I could get my teeth into. I would make a Julep-like drink; but, try to use ingredients Native to the New World! Spiced Pineapple Julep-ish Tequila Drink (sorry not feeling very inventive today) Prep Work: 1 Day before, peel and chop up a half a pineapple and put it in a quart container. Crush 2 tsp of allspice and add it to the container. Seed and wash 2 dried red chiles, (I used Chile Negros; but, anything Ancho-ish would be fine,) cut them in strips and add to the container. Dissolve 1 cup of sugar* and 1 cone of piloncillo in 1 cup of water and pour over the pineapple mixture. Shake to combine and let sit overnight. Before you go to bed, put your large julep glass in the freezer. The next day, strain off the liquid and reserve the pineapple. We'll call this "Spiced Pineapple Syrup". Cocktail Proper: 1 oz spiced pineapple syrup 3 oz Blanco Tequila (Herradura Blanco) Chopped Pineapple (I'm not sure how picky you are. You can either use the pineapple from the syrup or chop more fresh. The pineapple from the syrup will have small crunchy pieces of allspice and/or chili in it. Depending on your perspective, this might be bad or it might be good.) 6 sprigs mint** Juice 2 key limes Pineapple Spear Mezcal for float (Don Amado, Reposado) Take your julep glass out of the freezer. Add Spiced pineapple syrup to the glass and 3 sprigs mint still on stems, and a tablespoon or two of pineapple. Gently crush the pineapple, syrup and mint. Fill glass with crushed ice. Add 3 oz of blanco tequila and the juice of 2 key limes. Churn mixture to combine. Withdraw mint sprigs. Top up with crushed ice, and churn again. Float on a bit of mezcal, garnish with 3 mint sprigs, the pineapple spear, and stick in a straw. Tasty! I don't know, if Bob's not your uncle, you might ask your Mom about Jose... *OK, sugar isn't native to the New World. It's originally from Southern Asia. I was too lazy to run to the store and buy Agave Nectar. At least I used a type of Mexican raw sugar called piloncillo! **Also, I don't believe mint is Native to the New World. I briefly considered Cilantro; but, I think that is from China. I considered a couple others; but, they were all too hard to find or obscure, so I went back to the traditional mint.

I've been following this topic with interest. The demise of "from scratch" preparation in many restaurants and food outlets, and the use of pre-prepared ingredients, is one of the most tragic trends in recent restaurant history. The worst part, for me, is that anyone who works in restaurants or outlets that do this, learns almost no useful skills for the trade. You don't learn to chop, you don't learn to slice, you hardly even learn to cook beyond listening to the beep of the microwave. The problem I have with the topic, though, is the initial premise. Serving "Good Food" in a restaurant is hard. It requires attention to detail, work, and commitment, at every level of the organization, from purchasing, to prep, to dish washing, to service staff. It may not be hard for me or you to make a good clam chowder for a Friday night dinner at home. But, I don't have to worry about finding fresh clams, food cost, how long it takes, what else I have to do before service, whether the 16 year old will forget to check the steam tables and the whole batch will burn... If you own a restaurant in a small town in the middle of the country, it's going to be a lot easier to heat up that bag of pre-made frozen Clam Chowder than to train your inexperienced staff to make it. Not to mention the fact that much of the public has now been conditioned to enjoy pre-made, wallpaper paste-like, Clam Chowder, and would probably send back that bowl of the homemade Chowder if it were placed in front of them. Some of the more interesting articles I've read, though, are about the School Districts which have switched to making their own meals from using pre-made. I saw a piece on CBS Sunday morning about one program where they found it actually costs less to make the meals from scratch than to buy the pre-made food. Of course they still face the challenge of selling those foods to the children.

Well, I don't despise Pimm's Cups. Being American, I haven't had too many, I think 2 total now. A nice one on a hot afternoon in New Orleans and an awful one on a hot afternoon in San Francisco. The Pimm's in New Orleans was lightly sweet, really more mixer than Pimm's. Seemed perfect for a hot afternoon beverage, if you weren't in the mood for beer. A few of the newer bars have been featuring Pimm's Cups in San Francisco, it seems like they are sort of trendy right now. The one I had recently, here, was just awful. It was in a short-ish, thin, 8-10 oz glass, ice, 2 oz of Pimm's, 2 oz of lemon-grass ginger syrup, and then a soda fill. It was so disgustingly sweet and medicinal, that it made me wonder if the bartender had really ever tried the drink he had made me, or even had a Pimm's Cup elsewhere. The only real benefit was I really could taste the Pimm's No. 1 full on, and get a better handle on the flavor of that substance (Liqueur? Amer? Not sure what you classify Pimm's No 1 as.) What is a proper Pimm's No. 1 Cup? From George's post, it seems this seemingly simple cocktail inspires a certain amount of fervor among its fanciers. According to the Cocktail Times website, this is the Napoleon House's (bar in N.O. where I tried them) recipe:

B.V.D. Cocktail 1/3 Bacardi Rum (3/4 oz Flor de Cana Extra Dry) 1/3 Dry Gin (3/4 oz Boodles Gin) 1/3 French Vermouth (3/4 oz Noilly Prat) Shake (stir - eje) well and strain into cocktail glass. Interesting dry Martini variation. The rum disappears into the vermouth and gin. Had a hard time even detecting it in the cocktail. Lemon Twist or olive wouldn't be inappropriate, depending on your predilection. Does "B.V.D." stand for "Bradley, Voorhees & Day", as in, underwear? Or is it Bacardi, Vermouth, and Dry Gin?

I guess it's kind of like those creamer things that sit at room temperature forever. But, I don't really know. Speaking of a la minute preparations, I'm not a big dairy fancier; but, the Barbary Coast Cocktail is quite nice. Equal parts Scotch Whisky, Gin, Cream, Creme de Cacao, and sometimes Rum. Say 1/2-3/4 oz each. Either shaken and served up, or built over ice in a rocks glass. I'm sure you could use Irish Whiskey, if you were in the mood for a mellower cocktail. You'd just have to call it the "Galway Coast" or "Boston Harbor".