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eje

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by eje

  1. One of my long time favorite Latin small plates restaurants in San Francisco is Charanga on Mission between 19th and 20th. While they have some traditional Spanish tapas dishes, the food is a bit more eclectic than the more traditional places like Picaro and Esperpento. It's more of a neighborhood restaurant than an upscale place like Cesar; but, friendly service and a festive atmosphere keep Charanga quite busy most weekend nights. http://www.charangasf.com/
  2. I've been a bit frustrated with Martha Stewart Living lately. My wife and I used to make a habit of making the monthly featured menu (the one on the cards); but, there hasn't been anything appealing for months now. They also seem to have more or less cut out the monthly dinner party article/photos/recipes. Not sure what is going on with the magazine. Perhaps they are putting more effort into Everyday Food. At this point, I doubt I will renew MSL the next time it comes up. I get Gourmet; but, cook more from Epicurious.com than the magazine proper. There was a period of 6 or 7 months last year when the Gourmet seemed to be morphing into a travel/lifestyle periodical for the very wealthy instead of a cooking magazine. However, in the last few months, they have had more recipes and features that seem appealing. [Grumpy Old Man Voice] I still don't like the new layout style. It makes it nearly impossible to differentiate between the ads and the magazine content.[/Grumpy Old Man Voice] We have more luck with recipes in Eating Well than Cooking Light, though don't subscribe to either. Along with the NY Times, our local paper has a weekly food section which I frequently, uh, adapt recipes from. I will have to check out some of the other periodicals listed here.
  3. I really like the Wild Turkey 101 Rye in Sazeracs. It has a nice spicy flavor and a good kick to it. I haven't yet tried the Michter's; but, my Bourbon and Rye guru friend told me he was disappointed with it for the price. Funny story. Some friends and I were sitting down for dinner at a restaurant when one of the wait staff dumps a glass of cold water and ice in one of my friend's lap. They tell us to go to the bar, and get a free round while they clean it up. I noticed they had a bottle of the Old Potrero Rye, and decide, I'm getting that, if I'm getting a free drink. Sadly, after I made my choice, they told us, oh, ooops, sorry, we will only comp the friend who was spilled upon. Bastards! Anyway, the Old Portrero was very nice, depite the daggers from my friends' eyes. I've never seen Rittenhouse here; but, I will have to keep an eye out.
  4. I'm not over fond of the plain traditional mint juleps; but, perhaps I've never had a really good one. This recipe is based on one I saw on Martha Stewart's TV show, pre-incarceration. It makes 6-8, depending on how generous you are with the lemonade. Lemon infused simple syrup, Wash and zest 5 lemons (save lemons for lemonade!) 1 cup sugar 1 cup water Bring water and sugar to a bare simmer, remove from heat, and give it a few stirs to dissolve. Dump in lemon zest. Cool and strain. Will keep fairly indefinitely in a covered jar in the refridgerator. Lemonade: 5 Lemons Lemon Infused simple syrup water Juice lemons. Add an equal part water to lemon juice, and sweeten to taste with Lemon Infused simple syrup. Lemony Mint Juleps 1 1/2 ounce (1 jigger) Bourbon 1 1/2 ounce Lemonade Mint Ice fizzy water Add a few mint mint leaves to the bottom of a tall glass with the lemonade. Mash it with the end of a wooden spoon. Add ice, bourbon, top with a little fizzy water, stir to combine and garnish with a mint sprig.
  5. I've made my way through "Mixologist: The Journal of the American Cocktail" and one of the articles I found most interesting was Darcy O'Neil's, "The Definitive Guide to Simple Syrup". Some basic facts, as I understand them, from the article. I'm not a chemist, so feel free to correct what I get wrong. Simple Syrup (Gomme) is made by dissolving some quantity of sugar (sucrose) in water. The most basic is made by dissolving one part sucrose in one part water. Sucrose is a disaccharide, meaning it is a complex sugar made up of 2 molecules of simple sugars. Sucrose is made up of one molecule of Glucose bound to one molecule of Fructose. When Sucrose is dissolved in water, some sucrose molecules break down into their component simple sugars. The more energy which is applied to the dissolving of sucrose, the more molecules of the complex sugar which will break down into their component simple sugars. If you simmer Sucrose in water for an half an hour or so the majority of Sucrose molecules will have been broken down into Glucose and Fructose and you will have what is called an "Invert Sugar". Invert Sugars have significantly different physical and taste properties from Complex Sugars. For drink making the most important thing is consistency. Since I grew up in the 60s and 70s, and started cooking in the 80s, I inevitably was told "Refined Sugar is Bad". Initially, this made me try to increase the amount of brown sugar in my cooking. I have since discovered that brown sugar is nothing but refined sugar with some portion of its molasses mixed back in, so I was not avoiding refined sugar at all by using it! Lately, I have been taken with a product called Washed Raw Sugar. It is an amber colored free flowing large crystal sugar product which is made from unrefined cane syrup. In England it is called Turbinado. Demerara is the fanciest turbinado style sugar. I will also note that C & H's Washed Raw Sugar is their only product which does not pass through bone char filters made from the carbonized cattle skeletons. My method is to combine one cup of Washed Raw Sugar with one cup of water. I then bring it to a bare simmer, remove from heat, and stir until all the crystals dissolve. At this point I cool it to room temperature, pour into a clean sealable jar, and refridgerate. As you can see this makes an amber colored slightly viscous syrup. The only variations I make with any consistency are a lemon zest infused syrup for lemonade or my non-traditional juleps and a ginger infused syrup for cocktails. To make these, I simply add the ingredients to the cooling syrup, and then strain before refridgerating. What is your simple syrup method? Have you discovered any exciting or useful simple syrup infusions? Added original author attribution.
  6. I really didn't think Andy's Truckee Diner was that great. They have expanded the restaurant out beyond the dining car, so really the dining car is just the foyer to the restaurant proper. From what I remember, they had not continued the diner decor or ambiance into the larger restaurant, so we insisted on eating in the dining car. Food was nothing special. My impression of most restaurants in this price bracket/market is they rather depend on unskilled and/or illegal labor and pre-prepared items and mixes from food service supply companies. So, even though they are not chains, many are just outlets for the national food service supply companies. I doubt many even make their own pancake mix. At least that is how I explain what tastes like the same pancakes everywhere I travel in the US.
  7. Ramsay was on Letterman last week promoting "Hell's Kitchen" and his other efforts. I dunno, it just made me grumpy when they sent him to the "Hello Deli" to critique the food. After trying the Chicken Sandwich he grabs the tip jar and sez, "Here's my tip. Don't eat here." Ramsay did mention he's working on opening a restaurant in New York some time next year.
  8. eje

    Watermelon Pickles

    My grandma's recipe. Pickled Watermelon Rind 2 pounds watermelon rind 2 cups vinegar 2 cups water 4 cups sugar 1 stick cinnamon 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 teaspoon whole allspice 1 lemon, sliced thin Pare watermelon rind and remove all pink portion. Cut rind into pieces 2 x 1 inches and 1/2 inch thick. Weigh. Soak rind overnight in brine made by dissolving 1/4 cup salt in each quart water. Drain rind, wash in fresh water and drain. Cook rind in fresh water until tender. Combine remaining ingredients and boil together 5 minutes. Add rind a few pieces at at time and cook until rind is clear. Pack rind in hot sterilized jars, cover with boiling sirup and seal. Makes 2 pints. Cantaloupe rind, pumpkin or winter squash may be cut into pieces in the same way.
  9. The Napa Valley Wine train is made up of Pullman cars. The only Diner I know of is Andy's Truckee Diner, Truckee, CA. Anyone else?
  10. I don't like a lot of fake meat products; but, I find that Seitan based Ground Beef substitute is pretty OK, especially in a Vegetarian Cottage Pie. Can I call it "Satan Pie"? Anyway, diversify the veggies a bit, add a couple extra root vegetables and some herbs to the mash, and hardly anyone will complain about the Seitan at the bottom. Use all natural sour cream. Low or No-Fat sour creams sometimes do weird things when heated. ------ Vegetarian Cottage Pie 1 package vegetarian ground beef substitute 1 onion (chopped) 3 potatoes (peeled and chopped into 1" cubes) 3 Sweet potatoes (peeled and chopped into 1" cubes) 1/2 pound brown mushrooms (sliced) 1 bunch broccoli (cut into florets) 1 bunch spinach (remove stems) 1/2 cup fresh (or frozen) corn 1/2 cup fresh (or frozen) peas 1 cup sour cream 1 Tablespoon fresh (or 1 teaspoon dry) thyme (chopped) Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons butter salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup vegetable broth Boil chopped potatoes and sweet potatoes in salted water. When they are cooked, drain water from pan and mash. Mix in 2 tablespoons butter and 1/2 cup sour cream and fresh thyme. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Sauté mushrooms in olive oil. When liquid has cooked out of mushrooms, add onion. Continue cooking until onion is clear. Add ground beef substitute and brown lightly. Add vegetable stock and 1/2 cup sour cream. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour mixture out of sauté pan into whatever baking dish you are planning on using. Sauté or steam broccoli until lightly cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Layer into the baking pan. Sauté spinach. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add to baking pan. If you are using fresh peas, sauté lightly in olive oil or blanch briefly. Add to baking pan. Drain corn and sprinkle onto the vegetable layers you have created. Cover with mashed potatoes and bake in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes or until heated through and the top starts to brown.
  11. The only historic diner which springs to my mind in San Francisco proper is "It's Tops" on Market at Valencia. There must be others!? I haven't been to Sear's Fine Foods. I think it is now owned by the Lori's Diner (fake 50s diner chain) people. St. Francis Fountain on 24th and York, might be worth a stop.
  12. eje

    Lawnmower Beer

    I think Augsburger went through something similar to Special Ex. Changed hands a couple times. I found a couple references that the brand had been revived by the Point brewery in 2003. There are some current reviews on Beer Advocate, so I guess they are still making it. Augie was the first beer I taught myself to drink. http://www.realbeer.com/news/articles/news-001949.php "June 19, 2003 - The Stevens Point Brewery in Wisconsin has revived the Augsburger beer brand. The brewery purchased the rights to brew and sell the Augsburger from Pabst."
  13. Yeah! More press for Germain-Robin's fantastic Brandy! It also makes great Sidecars and my personal favorite, a slightly leaner version of the B & B or good fellow cocktail. Brandy Gypsy or my attempt to re-create something like the original Brandy Sazerac. 1 1/2 ounce Germain-Robin fine alambic brandy 2 dashes Peychaud's bitters 1/2 ounce benedictine If I am feeling ambitious, I will make this with the same method as a Sazerac. Chill glass, coat with benedictine, shake brandy with bitters, strain into glass. If I am feeling lazy, I will coat the glass with benedictine, add a couple dashes bitters and then the brandy. Very tasty either way.
  14. I imagine the flavor of limes and lemons changes as the season progresses. Early season oranges are certainly much different from late season ones. In my experience citrus also continues to ripen after it is picked, so lemons probably sweeten to a certain extent off the tree, as well. It is also possible, if you are getting farmers' market lemons, that Northern CA lemons are just not going to be as sweet as the hot weather lemons from Florida or SoCal. I did try making an aviation recently with local lemons and found it to be rather overpoweringly sour. I had chalked it up to incorrect measuring; but, perhaps it was the tartness of the lemon juice. I find the smell of Meyer Lemon oils and zest to be unappealing in cocktails. They have a gamey thyme-like odor that really bugs me. I stick to Lisbon and Eureka lemons.
  15. eje

    Lawnmower Beer

    You forget Special Export and Augsburger... ;-)
  16. Brooklyn, Carolyn has a good point. My wife and I have done a couple trips with friends this year to new cities where we make reservations ahead and eat out at upscale restaurants for 5 or 6 days in a row. By the last couple days, I usually just want a salad and some mineral water. No matter the caliber of restaurants, the experiences we remember most fondly are almost always from the first few days. From what I know of Zuni and what I've eaten at Chez Panisse/Chez Panisse Cafe, those two are probably great choices. The last thing you will probably want to see is another multi course tasting menu. I look forward to hearing your post trip impressions.
  17. eje

    Lawnmower Beer

    I really like New Glarus Brewing's Spotted Cow. Unfortunately, not available outside the midwest. When it gets hot, I usually commence my annual tasting of big bottles of German Weiss bier. I also see lots of other folks listing German Weiss beers as great hot weather beer. Why is it American Micro Breweries can make quality Ales and Belgian style beers; but, more often than not, fall on their face when they try to make a high quality Lager or Hefe-Weissen? Is it the water?
  18. The place that is highest on my wish list right now isn't in San Francisco proper; but, in Los Gatos. I've read so many great things about Manresa that if I were planning a "Money is no object" dinner in Central/Northern California, that is where I would go. Chez Panisse would probably be my second choice. I agree with the recommendations of Jardiniere and Boulevard. I've been to both several times and never had a bad meal or service. Some other restaurants on par with them might be Hawthorne Lane or LuLu. I haven't been to either Gary Danko or Michael Mina. I've only been to Slanted Door once since its move to the Ferry Building and quite enjoyed it. Much prefer it there to the Brannan location. I don't know the time frame for your visit; but, it can be a bit challenging to get reservations there. Quince is also on my wish list, as are Campton Place and Townhall. Incanto and Delfina are very good restaurants; but, they aren't going to compete with, say, Babbo or other fancy New York Italian spots. Of the two, I prefer Incanto. Most of these restaurants have websites, I would recommend doing some googling and seeing what appeals most.
  19. My mom used a lot of store bought canned vegetables when we were growing up. I thought I disliked beets, mushrooms, and quite a few others. Grew up, tried the real things, and haven't looked back. I've never been over fond of liver. My mom used to saute it with lots of onions in an electric skillet. Still don't like it. Also not over fond of related dishes like Pate and Foie Gras. Though I did have a Foie Gras terrine once at Jardiniere that very nearly turned me to the dark side. When I worked at a breakfast cafe, we used to have to saute huge amounts of zucchini very early in the morning for one of the omelette fillings. Something about that smell first thing in the morning turned me off to zucchini for quite a few years. I still will only eat it when it is in season.
  20. If you don't like the texture the bechamel gives your Mac & Cheese, but still want to make from scratch, you could always use another starch to thicken your cheese sauce. Of course you'd also want to use Velveeta and maybe condensed or dry milk. Potato, tapioca, or arrowroot starch would probably give it that gelatinous campbell's soup texture. I think corn starch would probably break in the oven. I usually use a roux based sauce with half milk and half chicken stock. I saute any additions on the side and add them when I mix with the pasta. I agree with the upstream poster who said that many recipes call for you to bake the casserole for too long. Really, you're just giving the flavors a chance to combine and bringing to a bare simmer. Better off getting your crust quickly under the broiler.
  21. I've had an 18 1/2" Weber for a few years now and find I wish I had gotten the 22". It does OK for most straight ahead grilling; but, is really too small to be used very well for indirect cooking. Plus, if you think you're going to be doing any cooking for parties larger than 4, that extra real estate can make a big difference. If you've got room the room for the couple extra inches of diameter, I would spend the 20 bucks and get the bigger one.
  22. Met some friends for drinks and dinner at Cortez Restaurant last night. http://cortezrestaurant.com/ I have to say I was very impressed with both the food and cocktails. The bar is a bit loud and I have to say I'm getting pretty tired of the tedious "rave" type music which seems so popular in places like this. However, the quality of the cocktails is outstanding. Some very cool original items on the drink list. The food was also very impressive. Small-ish plates. I don't think I would describe it as tapas, either. More eclectic bistro cooking. Bold flavors and attractive modern style platings. We opted to share 8 dishes and a side of fries for our table of 4. We probably could have left out one dish; but, I can't imagine which, they were all so tasty. The wine list is fairly small and in my opinion could use a few more sub-$40 options. Markups are around 2x retail. They also only have 2 beers on tap and a small selection of mostly european bottles. I guess the point is to sell the cocktails. We had a really nice evening, and I have no reservations about recommending the restaurant.
  23. Wisconsin is a pretty hard drinking state. Cold Winters and all that. Grew up there, and while my parents didn't drink, bar culture is a pretty big thing. A lot of people make cocktails at home, too. My wife's parents still live there. Every day at 5, without fail, her Dad has a Martini and her Mom an Old-Fashioned. I gave her Dad Dr. Cocktail's "Vintage Spirits" last year for Christmas, and he really enjoyed it. Second or Third generation Norwegians, Germans, and Irish made up most of the community I grew up in, and many of them liked their liquor. I don't know if it still does; but, Wisconsin used to have the largest per capita consumption of Brandy in the US. If you visit, be sure to order a Bourbon Old-Fashioned. If you don't, as Kurt notes, it will probably be made with Brandy. edited to clarify
  24. eje

    Australian Wines

    Wilfred Wong is a nice guy; but, he is not an independent wine critic. He works for the BevMo chain of liquor stores here in California. I don't usually give much weight to his ratings.
  25. I'd also agree with all the posts above about Incanto. I've had a few meals there since it opened and always had great food and friendly service. I will certainly be back. Price-wise, I guess it is pretty close to Delfina. The menu strikes me as being a bit more traditionally Italian than Delfina's Cal/Franco/Italian hybrid. Boy, the upcoming special dinners at Incanto sure look tasty! http://www.incanto.biz/information.html Nose to Tail, anyone?
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