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Megan Blocker

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Megan Blocker

  1. I'm coming around to Fat Guy's way of thinking. It does seem absurd that a blurb for a book published 7 years ago would have any real impact or importance for the author today.

    Journalists sometimes look silly in their extreme ethics, and it can be a disservice to the reader. Would we have been better off not knowing about Wells' book?

    My wife clerked for a federal judge. He recuses himself when one of his clerks argues before him, but after the clerk has been gone for two years he no longer recuses himself. Should book reviewers be holding themselves to a higher standard than people who truly do make life and death decisions?

    I, too, am not necessarily in disagreement with Fat Guy; certainly, on the radar of unethical goings-on, this is a tiny blip.

    I still think she was dumb not to be more careful, given the history.

  2. heck..it'd be impossible for the Per Se menu to be served in a 1.75 hours.  I could see them telling a late party that they only had 3 hours.

    I had a 9:45 reservation there in April. We closed the restaurant, and felt no pressure (quite the opposite - the staff became friendlier and chatted with us) to leave.

  3. Most of you probably remember the brouhaha that broke out over Amanda Hesser's 2004 review of Spice Market. She gave the restaurant three stars while serving as the interim food critic at the Times. It promptly came to light that Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the chef and owner, had given Hesser a very positive blurb that appeared on the cover of her book Cooking for Mr. Latte.

    Well, it's happened again. On Sunday, June 3rd, Hesser's review of Patricia Wells' new cookbook Vegetable Harvest was included in a larger piece called "Cooking Roundup." What did not appear was a note disclosing the fact that Wells, like Vongerichten, had contributed a blurb for another of Hesser's books (The Cook and the Gardener this time around). (A correction was subsequently printed on Sunday, June 10th.)

    My gut feeling is that it was definitely unethical for Hesser to publish both pieces without disclosing her relationships, and that it seems especially dim of her to do it a second time, given the fallout from the first occurrence.

    Here's the text of the most recent correction:

    The Cooking roundup last Sunday, written by Amanda Hesser, included a review of Patricia Wells's ''Vegetable Harvest.'' In 1999, Wells contributed a jacket blurb for Hesser's book ''The Cook and the Gardener.'' The Book Review has a policy against assigning a review in those circumstances, but by the time Hesser told editors about the blurb, the issue had already gone to press. Had the editors known of the conflict, Wells's book would not have been included.

    Here's a link to the Gawker item about the whole thing. What do you guys think?

  4. Depending how widely you define "the area," I might suggest Cafe d'Alsace, at 88th and 2nd, or the Bar at Etat Unis (81st between 2nd and 3rd) as being very solid choices.

    My last two experiences at Cafe d'Alsace have not been great...however, every meal I've had at Bar Etats-Unis has been very good, and their wine list is great.

  5. No more than 20 dollars per person if possible.  Thank you.  Again, going out with a non foodie.

    Eek. This is tough on the UES. If you order right and forgo alcohol, you might be ok at Bar Etats-Unis (probably closer to $35, in reality).

    Maybe E.A.T. on Madison at 83rd? Sandwiches, salads, etc. Overpriced, but should still come in at your budget level.

    There are any number of little coffee shop/diner type places on Madison in the 70's and 80's...that may be a good bet.

  6. Ann, the antipasto platter is quite something. Can you name the bits and pieces for us? The shrimp look grilled...did you brine or marinate them at all? Yum.

    Thanks to all for the welcome back messages! :smile:

  7. You mean they're cultivating wild asparagus? Wouldn't that make it no longer wild?

    I was thinking the same thing...wild is no longer so much a truth as it is a truthiness - a way to distinguish from other kinds of asparagus...

  8. Are they importing it from England/Europe? Not that it makes any difference to me--I would probably have to drive to St. Louis or Chicago to find anything so exotic.  I am lucky if I can find avocados or mangos in my grocery store. 

    (But I don't care--I have real asparagus growing right outside.  Neener-neener.)

    I believe that wild asparagus is now grown here in the States - according to this source, it was first brought over in the 18th Century.

    I LOVE wild asparagus...I eat it at home, mainly in a spaghetti dish, but also had it on a recent trip to Per Se, where it was served with butter-poached lobster and morels. Quite divine.

    I made my pasta dish for dinner last night... :smile:

  9. Tracey, how was the corn this early in the season? Should I be buying some Jersey corn tonight?

    After a couple of months' hiatus from the Dinner thread (so busy tackling my new Host duties!), I'm back! I spotted some wild asparagus yesterday, and decided to make this...a little garlic, butter, salt and pepper, and spaghetti, of course.

    gallery_26775_1623_19756.jpg

    It was awfully tasty.

    ETA: Inspired by last night's dinner, I wanted to start a topic on wild asparagus - turns out there already is one!

  10. Mimi Sheraton and other major figures in the food writing community write controversial, provocative things all the time, yet only one in a thousand gets discussed in depth in eG Forums. Likewise, there are lengthy debates in eG Forums all the time that are triggered by comments made by people who aren't major names in food. The reason this topic has been dwelling on the Momo-Ssam lunch/dinner issue is, I think, not because Mimi Sheraton said it but, rather, because it's an interesting and controversial issue about which people have strong views. If a random eGullet Society member had posted here (I realize Mimi Sheraton's comments were published elsewhere) and said, "I went to Momofuku Ssam Bar for lunch and I don't get what the big deal is," then someone would have replied with the information that you need to go for dinner to experience the serious stuff. If a set of people had then taken the position that it's criminal to serve different food at dinner than at lunch, and another set had taken the position that it's fine, I'm sure we'd be in the middle of a lengthy debate regardless of who made the original point. This topic was going on full bore for 270 posts before and of this lightning-rod situation and will go on long after the lunch/dinner issue becomes tiresome, if it hasn't already.

    I was thinking the exact same thing earlier, but had too many meetings to post it. I second that (even though I'm totally the one who posted Mimi's comment :wink:).

  11. Bit of a scathing post about Waverly Inn over on Amateur Gourmet today:

    "They don't have our reservation," said my mom.

    I looked up at the host. "Really?" I asked. "Don't you have a print-out?" I asked my mom.

    "I do," she said. "But they say that the person who the hotel made the reservation with--Courtney--doesn't work here."

    "That's weird," I said.

    "We don't have a Courtney here," confirmed the host. "And tonight we have a private dinner party, so we wouldn't have taken the reservation."

    Was he calling my mom a liar? The hotel? Courtney?

    ...

    [T]he next day, the concierge at my parents hotel was completely flustered by what had happened to us. He wrote your restaurant an e-mail that asked for an explanation, saying that the hotel's page had made the reservation with Courtney five days prior. What had happened?

    Your restaurant wrote back (and I quote verbatim): "We apologize profusely. Consequently, Courtney was let go yesterday and we would like to offer your guest a reservation this evening at any time of her liking."

    Courtney was let go?? But the host said there was no Courtney!!? You mean there WAS a Courtney and you fired her on our account? I doubt that very much.

    And even if that's true, that's messed up! You fired someone for taking a reservation at your restaurant? Oh wait, it's not a restaurant? It's a private club? But how come pages from my parents hotel can get hotel guests in? How did Frank Bruni get in? Or, for that matter, Ruth Reichl? Graydon, what's going on here? Are you a club or a restaurant? Make up your mind.

    I'm loving his tone, though the story doesn't surprise me at all. Not one bit.

  12. But restaurant dining shouldn't be a research project. It can be highly rewarding if you happen to have the time and inclination for it (as most of us here do), but it isn't essential at any fine restaurant, and never should be. If you say "X is great...but you have to know when to go, and what to order," it's equivalent to saying "X, for the most part, is mediocre."

    But in essence, if they're going to a David Chang restaurant, some sort of research has already been done. Just do a little more.

    Eh, not really. I had a friend ask me tonight if I'd been to Momofuku Ssam, and I know for a fact he had no idea who David Chang was (or, if he - the friend - has read about Chang, he didn't retain anything about him).

    You live in New York, you pay a reasonable amount of attention, you hear about restaurants. If you don't care about chefs per se, you may not know that Chang's the "next big thing." You may just have heard that the Bo Ssam is massive. Or something along those lines.

    Ummm, your friend "asked you." How did he not know who DC was if he asked you if you'd been to Ssam bar? That's research! And you may have said something along the lines of, to get the full experience, don't go at lunch.

    Because, in my experience, not everyone thinks about restaurants in terms of chefs, not everyone follows the JB awards, etc. Someone told him they had a good meal there, he knows I like restaurants, he was making conversation. My point being, he wasn't asking because it was a David Chang restaurant - it had nothing to do with the chef as a person or phenomenon or whatever, just to do with the food. He would not have been able to name the chef, and would have asked me the same question about Goodburger or the Italian joint on my corner had he heard something about those.

    Yes, it's research - my point wasn't about doing research, it was about how most (or at least many, many) people think about restaurants.

  13. You can criticize, resent or try to rewrite the restaurant's business plan all you want. You can rail against chef-worship, real or imagined, until you're blue in the face. Or, if you'd rather have a great meal, just go for dinner.

    No reason you can't do all of the above, really. :wink:
  14. So it sounds like you all are suggesting offal, not a pasta tasting menu anymore? I've promised to take a friend for a pasta tasting menu when he defends his dissertation. He's been to Al Di La' (actually, both of us have, separately). Will he be disappointed by comparison? Neither of us have ever been to Babbo.

    I really enjoyed the pasta tasting menu I had in February 2006, and the individual pastas I've had since then (last time before April, though, was last August). However, there were a couple of dishes (the calamari and the lobster pasta) that disappointed on my last visit. That said, it's definitely still worth going. We ended up sort of making our own tasting, sharing three pastas and two mains between three of us...

  15. But restaurant dining shouldn't be a research project. It can be highly rewarding if you happen to have the time and inclination for it (as most of us here do), but it isn't essential at any fine restaurant, and never should be. If you say "X is great...but you have to know when to go, and what to order," it's equivalent to saying "X, for the most part, is mediocre."

    But in essence, if they're going to a David Chang restaurant, some sort of research has already been done. Just do a little more.

    Eh, not really. I had a friend ask me tonight if I'd been to Momofuku Ssam, and I know for a fact he had no idea who David Chang was (or, if he - the friend - has read about Chang, he didn't retain anything about him).

    You live in New York, you pay a reasonable amount of attention, you hear about restaurants. If you don't care about chefs per se, you may not know that Chang's the "next big thing." You may just have heard that the Bo Ssam is massive. Or something along those lines.

  16. why can't he make his place a Korean Chipotle at lunch?  what's wrong with that?  what does that have to do with dinner?

    Personally, myself, I don't think there's anything wrong with that. But that still doesn't negate the need for that information to be disseminated - if someone as well-informed and interested in food as Mimi Sheraton wasn't aware that she was going to a Korean Chipotle for lunch (again, I think it's MOST important that she still didn't like it - had it been excellent fast food, her opinion would most likely have been different), then maybe it's good that she's saying so, so people will know.

    After all, if you're a casual follower of the restaurant scene, you might hear that Momofuku Ssam is supposed to be great, and decide to head there for lunch one day while you're in the 'hood, and be sorely disappointed. Now that's a bit less likely to happen, no?

  17. 2.  You get what you pay for.  Lunch is not transcendent, but neither is 10 bucks.  For 10 bucks, there may be foods that I like more, but I'm not thinking too hard about this. It's only 10 bucks.  (And there are definitely foods that I'll like less for 10 bucks).

    I think her unspoken point (that hype and buzz create unrealistic expectations) was actually quite well-served by her methodology. I shouldn't have to (as an eater) go to restaurants four times to have a good meal. To write a well-thought out, broad-ranging review that incorporates a whole menu? Sure. To write a blurb on a disappointing burrito? I really only need to taste it once.

    She's not writing a review in the Times; blogs are, by their nature, immediate and changeable. She didn't put this in a paper of record, but chose to send it to a buzz-creating/gathering/disseminating machine, of sorts. Makes sense to me.

    I guess my point is that Mimi (to follow your lead :wink:) is thinking of the average eater, who may not do a ton of research (and I sometimes think we become very myopic in thinking that people should be as obsessive/knowledgable about where they eat as we are) before choosing Momofuku Ssam for a meal. You hear someplace is good, you go there, and you have a disappointing meal (again, we're not talking not transcendent, we're talking just plain not good) - nothing unreasonable about saying, hey, guys, this place may be good, but it sure as hell ain't perfect.

  18. I think one important point is that Sheraton just didn't like the meal she had. She didn't say, "It was fine for $7, but what's the big deal?" She said it just wasn't that good. It doesn't matter what expectations you have; if the food isn't good (which is pretty subjective), then it just isn't good. Even if it isn't a signature dish - it should still be good.

    That said, I think comparisons to Spago are, for the reasons Doc notes above, moot. This is the same restaurant, the same location, the same purveyors, and the same chef. There's no reason for a drastic change in quality (even if the menu items are different).

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