Bapi

What about the Old Passage Inn, Arlingham?? Jay gave it a good review and we have thought about it as a stop off, en-route to Ludlow before now.

I am sad to report I think jay is quite right. We were at GR@Claridges and it was woefully obvious that Seargant wasn't around to guide his team and was occupied elsewhere on this programme.Our meal was only average at best. I'll do a review in due course.

Again in no particular order Roast Squab and parsley risotto- Merchant House ( simple and perfect) Oxtail and Pork Belly Faggots- Cotswold House Hotel- Hicks( real comfort food) Roasted Challandais Duck with spiced pineapple - Waterside Inn (Delicious, moist and perfectly pink) Crispy Pork belly, Confit of white Asparagus, Calamari in maple syrup, demi tasse of white asparagus and maple syrup soup- Hibiscus (Glorious) Pork Vindaaloo- Parsee ( The real Mcoy) Basildog's Rack of lamb and his squid with coriander dish - (which incidentally, beat the pants off a squid starter at the Stein's Seafood restaurant a few days earlier)

It should appear in the 19 June issue (number 67), but I'll let you know if there is any change to that. Will it be a hatchet job Andy?

Thanks for that prompt Andy- just re-arranged a series of meals at Hibiscus and the Merchant House from November back to September this year. Actually, re your comments about taking photos of the dishes and disturbing the guests. Gary didn't mind in the slightest, he took a shot of every dish we had at Hibiscus (and the M House) this March. He may be able to post them when he has charged up his Kodak Brownie, provided the Bosi's don't mind of course. As I have indicated before on numerous occasions- this place is my favourite restaurant in the UK, without doubt. When one factors in the quality of ingredients, sheer ingenuity of cooking, the cost- be it the food- or the low wine mark-ups, in addition to the first rate service from Claire; there is, as Andy writes, nowhere like it in the UK.

Mmm, we are at Claridges for an early meal next weekend so I will report back. It will be interesting to see just how it compares with your experience. Nice report- thanks

Bleeding Meglomaniac

A shame for Newquay I think. However, as less of his time will be taken up with this venture now - is it possible he might be behind the stoves, next week then Basildog, when we are there

If you saw him you'd realise exactly how committed to the cause he is he's not exactly lax on the drinking front either! cheers gary Gavin- Yes I totally agree, if venturing out there it would be a good thing to do both restaurants in two days. Rosie and I have done this in the past- most recently for an excellent eGullet meal Andy organised in May 2003. So that we had dinner and a stay over at the Waterside Inn the night before, followed by lunch at the Fat Duck the next day. As you write- the two places couldn't be more different. The only unmitigating factor is that if dining at two 3* stars and staying over, you may like my good self, need to do a few extra paper rounds and sell the mother-in-law (if only! ) to fund it. I suggest that a mid week dinner, followed by lunch the next day would be an easier way to get in to both; as weekends will be very booked up as we head towards the summer months. Tarka- Glad you are impressed, couldn't possibly comment as to what my Bank manager thinks though. Gary- The words "pot" and "kettle" spring to mind. As you know, I am but a young(ish) Padewan to your Yoda, when it comes to consuming and imbibing. Lager Nightcap anyone?

We had a truly stellar day out on Saturday, the sort of day that will hopefully linger in my memory long after my children have farmed me off to an Old People's home. The God's were smiling on us as we had fortuitously picked the warmest, sunniest day of the year which only added to our high spirits for our little adventure in Bray. Our party of four arrived in good time from Paddington and we were ushered through the already packed dining room where the first thing that hit us as we passed through, was the noise of infectious geniality from the guests, gleefully tucking in to their food and wine with insouciant abandon. But it wasn't just the guests; every member of staff beamed and welcomed us as we were escorted through the opened up glass frontage of the Inn and down the few steps to be seated on the terrace in the warm sunshine, by the ebbing water of the Thames. Aperitifs duly arrived which was champagne for three of us and a fruit cocktail, and these were quickly followed by wonderful canapés. Helium-light cheese gougeres, moreish Foie gras on brioche, tiny tartlets of shallot confit with gruyere and best of all delicious, sparklingly fresh lobster tartlets with a delicate sauce maltaise. An excellent start, and eagerly devoured by our friends. I have to admit, I was a tad nervous about taking Alan and Clare on this occasion. We have had many meals and weekends away over the years, but this was the first time that we had shared a three star experience together and with the necessary expense that this experience entails. Fine if you’re a keen and dedicated foodie, but as Alan's' favourite meal in the world would be Chinese crispy duck pancakes followed by a rare steak and chips, I wasn't sure he would judge this meal as good value. I needn't have worried, they were very willing to try the tasting menu exceptionnel instead of the set £40 set lunch we had originally envisaged having and I would have to agree; if this is your first time, there is no better way to sample what the Waterside Inn has to offer. The delightful Diego duly appeared to take our order, pointing at the vibrant blue sky and the river and asking us "How can you not be happy on a day like this?" Quite right too- but then an odd thing happened. A young waitress appeared and ushered us down the side of the restaurant. Were we being ejected for bad behaviour? Surely not as Alan hadn't even broken a wine glass let alone any furniture unlike the last time we met in Orford. (You knew I was going to mention this somehow- Al) In fact, in getting wrapped up in the meal, I had completely forgotten that I had asked for a tour of the kitchen. We were received by Alain Roux who very kindly gave us a quick tour of the various sections which was fascinating and a nice thing to do as they were obviously very busy. The heat was fairly intense in the kitchen, with a good twenty-plus brigade flitting around, undertaking their designated duties. Two chaps were feverishly preparing the vast quantities of canapés required for lunch. Then we moved to a section where the meats, including whole Challandais ducks and loins of lamb, were being seared before being placed in the oven. Behind us was a stove with a huge selection of the sauces to go with the various dishes, and a large pot of wonderful aromatic stock with langoustines bubbling away; admittedly, I had to stop myself from having a surreptitious taste of this. Finally, to a little corner where four pastry chefs were beavering away. Alain Roux explained what they were doing and was even gracious enough to laugh off Al's comment about the raspberry coulis in a bottle being tomato sauce, with a "Yes, we have just scratched the Heinz label off". Fear not, I impaled the heathen- Alan through the heart later. We had chosen the same excellent Chassagne Montrachet (Louis Jadot) we had last December for our first and fish courses. The girls opted for a delicate shellfish minestrone, which was a light but intensely flavoured broth with adroitly cooked vegetables and containing a small ravioli filled with delicious pesto. The dish is finished with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese should you wish it. Very much enjoyed by both of them and the dish I nearly went for. But instead, Alan and I opted for Pan-fried escalope of foie gras with soft white beans and wild mushrooms, citrus sauce. An excellent dish, the foie gras had a wonderful texture and just the right amount of caramelisation, this was counteracted by the delicate citrus flavour of the sauce and the further hint of citrus from the slivers of lime zest mixed in with the beans. Next came the ethereal, Pan-fried lobster medallion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne. We all enjoyed this dish and this is my favourite dish of all time. But as I have written about it before I'll move on to….. Passion fruit and white rum granite, or as Alan expertly observed "Ice with flavours in it". Gosh, Jay Rayner and co can rest easy for now. I sometimes find this course unnecessary, but as a palate cleanser before the main course, I thought this worked well on the day. Main courses were for our friends- Roasted leg and best end of milk lamb with seasonal vegetables, and a minted hollandaise sauce. This looked wonderful with slices of pinkish meat, surrounded by the freshest of baby carrots and beans. They loved it and cleared their plates. Rosie and I opted for Grilled and roasted Challandais duck served with thin slices of lightly spiced pineapple, and jus. We hadn't had this dish for two years and so we asked for it to be cooked very pink. It is brought to your table and displayed whole, before being effortlessly carved before you into thin slices within minutes. This was pure food theatre at its best. I thought at first it looked as if it was cooked past the requested pink, but I needn't have feared in the slightest, as slice after slice of perfect meat appeared thereafter. Served with a delicate light jus, the spiced pineapple, small unannounced fronds of sprouting broccoli and a fondant of sweetish turnip. An excellent dish, nothing to overtly intricate - just excellent ingredients. I too left nothing. We then had a pleasant interlude outside to finish our wine, a fine Nuits St Georges, before being called back in for desserts and cheese. Rosie and I opted for a selection of chocolate treats - which included a devilish chocolate crème caramel; a white chocolate mousse served in a shot glass; a wonderful light chocolate mousse which tasted of rose water; and an intricate chocolate basket with summer fruits contained within it. Both our friends opted for cheese which they declared was some of the nicest they had ever tasted. I didn't pick up on any of the names of the cheese, diligently explained by the waiter, but noticed that one bore a marked resemblance to a Brillat Truffe we had tried at the Merchant House. That particular cheese has a dusting of truffle as a central vein through the cheese, the one before us looked similar and as the waiter explained actually had al layer of ash running through it. Except with the slight French inflexion in his accent - it sounded like "hash". Now, I cast no aspersions about Alan and his time at University - but lets just say the very mention of the word hash, made his eyes light up excitedly and so he plumped for a nice large portion of the cheese. Just in case! The charming waitress who had overheard him said she would wait fifteen minutes and see if there was any reaction. Which sort of typifies the easy, effervescent charm that all the staff seem to exude at the Waterside and which I rather suspect is because of the guiding hand of Diego Masciaga and his second in command, Bennoit. They have instilled into their staff the willingness to make sure that everyone who ventures through their door, has the best possible time and is treated with respect and in that regard, their team are the best we have ever come across. A fact not missed by our friends, who admitted that they were slightly perturbed by what they had feared might be a slightly stuffy experience. But both commented at how relaxed they felt and at the lack of pretension that pervades throughout the Inn. Coffee and teas and petit fours were taken in one of the pagodas overlooking the water, along with armanagacs and a cognac. I have to admit that whilst in the pagoda and looking out, the devil inside us all were willing the slightly drunken, tottering couple, clutching their wine glasses on the private jetty, to fall in. With those stilettos, the girls thought she was done for, but hey ho, you can't have everything. In any case this was a lovely way to finish off what we declared to be the best lunch we had ever had. The pacing of the meal was absolutely perfect, as we were there for over four hours and so whilst replete, we did not feel overly full at the end of the meal. My only regret was that we unfortunately we didn't get a chance to show our friends the specific bedrooms that I had also requested, as the guests for that evening had already arrived. Thankfully, we are thinking of venturing back together to stay the night very soon and as luck would have it - it is nearly birthday time.

In his schizophrenic mixed up mind he is sure and I am Carmen Miranda.

Count yourself very lucky. Nice review - this is defintely on my list when I venture up North next. Suppose I had better drag Marshall along to show me the ropes. Cheers B

Good choice Hallie- that would be the one I would have suggested. Also, we had a very pleasant stay at the Beetle and Wedge, which I can equally recommend. Let us know how you get on Julian. Cheers B

Sarah Gosh- I had totally forgotten - I had posted about this. I am glad you liked it at the Fox Inn- I never did get round to writing anything up about it - partly as I wanted to keep quiet about it!. We have stayed there three times, when it was under different management. The previous owners- the Lee's- used to also own the Acorn Inn in nearby Evershot, as well. I think the young chef at the Fox Inn, is still the same as when we were last there on the trip I mentioned above. Both of us thought the food was excellent, if a little on the expensive side for rural Dorset, but it was certainly worth the money. In its previous incarnation, the owner's proudly claimed that they used no microwave ovens and served no chips at all, an ethos which was borne out by the fresh ingredients and deft cooking exhibited. I had the best mussels I have ever had in my life there- spankingly fresh and cooked with buttered leeks and local cider, followed by very pink rack of lamb. Shame you didn't enjoy your puddings as I had a small portion of world class sticky toffee pudding- with that lovely clotted cream you mention. Rooms are lovely and quaint as well- we had the large double room inside the Inn on one occasion. But on the other two stays, we took the annex room with its own private entrance, to the right of the Inn. It does have twin beds - but we always pushed them together and it feels just that little bit more secluded! Totally agree about that conservatory. There was a large group celebrating in there, when we were there last time, and it looked very atmospheric with a large numbers of candles lighting up the place. A nice choice for your birthday Sarah.

The eulogy about the Seafood Restaurant- Fruits de Mer by Jan Moir in this article clinched it for me. We are now booked for early May, so will report back. B

And another one then John! Head for Chipping Campden and try the Cotswold House.

The Samling certainly reads as if its aiming for the high end - Assiette of Pigs head and root vegetable and turbot poached in langoustine stock, with morels and white asparagus, according to the GFG, which gives it a 5 this year. They also do eight course menu gourmand for £60. From our Sharrow Bay trip , I remember it being up a very steep private road, just off the main A road, such that I imagine the views must be spectacular from the Samling itself. I am fairly sure that Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman took the whole place over a few years back for a stay( if that's an endorsement!!). Also in the vicinity of Windermere are Holbeck Ghyll and Gilpin Lodge, which might be worth a look at. Both get five again in the GFG. Re Taxi's- I suggest that you get your Hotel in Bowness, or do a search for taxis- to sound out how much a taxi would cost, as there is very little chance of getting a bus direct to Cartmel or to Sharrow Bay. Be worth it though in my opinion.

Thanks Hornet, Deeply ashamed to say that I haven't been, eventhough it's only few minutes from where we live. We will hopefully make it over there this weekend. Was the fish stall any good? Hallie- its only ten minutes from Muswell Hill. So no fear.

The Samling and Miller Howe both over look Windermere. The former looks particulary interesting L'Enclume is at Cartmel. One I want to try. Sharrow Bay is at Ullswater and is utterly fantastic ( I did a post about it last year ) Punch Bowl Inn at Crosthwaite - Stephen Doherty's the chef and it has a good reputaation. In Bowness itself are Linthwaite House and The Port Hole Eating House. Hope that helps

GFG recommends Bistro 21, Aykley Heads House, to the north of the city. Roast hake and watercress, with deepfried parsley- Pot roast Partridge with bacon and polenta. Gets 3/10. 0191 384 4354 Or there is Seaham Hall on the coast - which I like the sound of too - that gets a 5/10. www.seaham-hall.com

Is this the most unsubtle post ever to grace the Boards of Egullet? Go on then - Happy Birthday you old Tart

aka? MobyP , maybe I have the wrong end of the stick here, but do you think the person I am refering to is an EG-er? He isn't, it's my friend Dan- but his wife is a regular lurker, which is why I am so gleefully rude about her.

Oh sorry, can't do 23/24th I am afraid, lunching in Bray at our friend's expense ( although he doesn't know it yet )and then staying at friends. And we are away in Cornwall for a few days 7/8th May. Other than that - we are clear. Happy to help

I agree with John- The Parsee would be a great venue. As I said there are numerous pubs we could meet up at before hand in the Village. Cheers B

I have been meaning to go to The Parsee in Highgate for some time as its only twenty minutes from where we live in North London. The food by Cyrus Todiwala, of Café Spice Namaste, and concentrates solely on the cuisine of his Parsee community in Mumbai (formerly Bombay). Surprisingly, there was only one other couple when the four of us arrived for our 9pm table. It's situated in a smallish, but brightly lit converted shop, just down the road from quaint old Highgate village. We started with excellent papads, just like my mother gets and not the pallid, pale yellow ones mass bought, which one often gets in "Indian" restaurants. This was served with first rate homemade chilli pickle and a tamarind chutney- again, none of that generic mango chutney and onion salad here. Unfortunately, even after being warned of the heat of the pickle by me - our friend N indulged a little to enthusiastically and was therefore was brought near to tears. I fear our Spanish cousins are not used to spicy things- bless her. (V pretty, just not that bright ) My friend and his missus both opted for Papeta na Pattice to start with- which were three smallish cakes of potato mixed with peas, grated coconut, nuts and various spices; which were then bread crumbed and shallow fried. These were served on a bed of rich tomato gravy. The little I tried was very nice and real home-style comfort food. Rosie opted for Akoori on toast - which was very generous helping of spiced scrambled egg, flavoured with chilli and garlic and coriander - finished with a bit of vinegar- which lifted the dish. Rosie found it a bit filling so left part of it as she really wanted to enjoy her main course. I opted for a selection of vegetarian and meat starters- According to the notes written by the chef- Parsees have a great affinity and passion for eggs and I was given a dish called Tamota purr eeda. This was a ramekin filled with a mixture of spiced beaten egg steamed on a bed of diced tomato cooked with chopped shallots, garlic & spices. This was then finished with a sprinkling of sugar & vinegar, and a little chopped coriander. I liked this dish very much. I was also given a small tasty piece of venison, which was char grilled after having been spiced with star anise and a piece of chicken, which had been marinated in cumin, ginger and garlic, which was ok. Mains were very successful on the whole. Parsees are apparently devoted carnivores are enthuse specifically about lamb. In keeping with this my missus opted for Dhaansaak This was superb and light years away from the bastardised version served in curry houses up and down the country. The menu explains that "Dhaansaak is traditional Sunday fare & is the Parsee equivalent to the Sunday Roast. Dhaansaak is composed of two words “dhaan” meaning rice & “saak” meaning the lamb & lentil combination." This was served with delicately flavoured onion and star anise pulao,fried minced lamb balls and cachumber (onion salad). The whole composition of the dish was excellent- and the meat moist and tender. She loved it. N went for Dhaan Daar Nay Kolmi No Patio- silly girl, again this a bit too hot for her, but I really enjoyed eating what she left over, so no complaints from me. The daar refers to the lentils in the dish, kolmi to the succulent prawns and the patio to the wonderful twangy, spicy sauce. D opted for the only slightly average dish which was Murghi Ni Curry Nay Papeto- Chicken and potato curry enhanced with a creamy concoction of coconut, cashew nuts, chick peas almonds and sesame seeds. Not to my taste and as I tried this after the other spicier and more flavoursome dishes, perhaps my palate wasn't able to truly pick up the nuances of the dish. I opted for Pork nu Vindaloo. I have always wanted to try this dish properly made and I am very glad I did, it was excellent. Tender morsels of pork made with Goan masala paste to into which palm vinegar is added. The dish is also redolent with garlic and spices, which are enhanced and almost counter balanced by the twang of the vinegar. In addition we had papeta purr Eeda- which was chunks of potato to which cumin seeds, green chilli and then spiced egg is added. I didn't really enjoy this dish, but I thought the dish of Aubergine and courgettes in a patia sauce was excellent. Breads too, were first rate. By this stage my friend the- Narcoleptic Chingford Boy- had once again, fallen asleep at the table. He did exactly the same at a meal at Hibiscus last year, and so puddings were passed over whilst we waited for our taxis. A fine place with genuinely friendly service and excellent food.Granted it’s a little more expensive than your average local "Curry House" - but then this is no average Indian restaurant. Seek it out.