rjwong

Susan, who says that these toffee squares will be around by tomorrow morning ... hehehe ... ?

Jason, you either have to share the six pack of Beard Papa cream puffs with others, or else eat them faster! And I'm not going to try to eat a 4x4 from In-N-Out Burger!

Bradley Gene Smith, Welcome to eGullet, California forum! Yes, Bastide is closed for now. From that LA Times article back in Jan. 2006, the restaurant will change its name, its decor, its menu, etc. I'm guessing the dishes will be more avant-garde, more reflective of Ludo's cooking, complete with his sous vide machine. I'm keeping an eye on that place. Mind you, Los Angeles bureaucracy can be quite bureaucratic. This might be the next new restaurant to go to in LA.

Marlene, the grilled pizzas looked great! And how was your dessert? Which one was better: the first one or the refill? Susan, pardon my ignorance. What would happen if you didn't brine that pork butt? Mike, how about a picture of your oven with the pizza stone? Is it worth buying one? At which size? ... just grillin' ... and singin' ... in the rain ...

Mike, now that's a meal for a man! If you were really hungry, could you eat the whole thing? Great teamblog, everyone! Keep smokin', but no puffin' ...

LA Times Food Section – May 10, 2006 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Spanish adventure / by Corie Brown Southern California wine lovers are crazy for bargain reds and whites from Spain. Since the 1980’s, Spain’s wine industry has become a revolution. And it’s making its way into California. Rajat Parr, wine director for Michael Mina's restaurant group, says, "They taste totally different than California wines, but they have that same intensity and structure ... No place in the world makes better value wines today than Spain.” And these wines from Spain have the same quality at half-price. Includes two side articles, ”A primer on grapes and places” ; the Times blind tasting of Spanish wines Oh, get past the garnish / by Amy Scattergood Chop-chop -- it's time for parsley and its herbal cousins to be at the center of the action. You buy a bunch of herbs, like parsley, cilantro, basil, or mint. And they get thrown into the bottom of the refrigerator, to be forgotten. Unless you remember you have them and you make a quick pesto. But there's a world of possibility out there besides pesto. Includes three recipes: Roasted tomatoes persillade; Potato leek soup with cilantro-anchovy chop; Rack of lamb with mint gremolata crust Rereading the Greek classics / by Donna Deane Layer upon layer of complex flavors come together in modern versions of simple-to-make standards. Some of Greece's best loved dishes, like moussaka, pastitsio, and yiouvetsi, are as easy to make as macaroni & cheese. Mind you, ... the complex, layered creations were originally served for Sunday dinners and special occasions. “kali orexi!" — good appetite! Includes three recipes: Moshari yiouvetsi (veal and pasta casserole); Balkan-style moussaka; Pastitsio; and the side article, ”Where to get Greek” Far-flung kitchens send news / by Regina Schrambling Stand facing the average newsstand lately and it's hard not to think American food magazines are speeding downhill in a Rachael Ray sled, with Paula Deen pushing. And then, ever increasingly, food magazines from overseas, like Donna Hay Magazine, Fresh and Olive, are arriving in the States from Australia and England, as well as New Zealand. They’re bring a worldly sophistication to the table. Even better at a tense time for national self-esteem, imported food magazines nicely convey how the rest of the world sees us. Includes two recipes: Asparagus and Parmesan tarts; Orange granita with passion fruit There is a discussion about this topic: Food magazines: US, overseas & Canada What's for breakfast? Dinner / by Leslee Komaiko Neal Fraser, chef-owner of Grace, plans to open BLD, as in "breakfast, lunch and dinner." Mike Garber, sous chef of Grace, is going to head the kitchen. BLD will be a little more casual than Grace, and more affordable. “The proximity [to Grace] makes sense to us because we can almost be at two places at the same time," says Fraser. "It's a block and a half away." BLD will be located in the old Café Capo/Opaline/Red space. Also in the Restaurant Journal: ∙ The Patina Group is taking over management of Maple Drive, the 17-year-old Beverly Hills restaurant June 1. ∙ Ron Mendoza, “director of pastry operations" at Boule, as well as being pastry chef at sister restaurant Sona across the street, is now pastry chef at Ortolan. ∙ Koichiro and Akiyo Kikuchi closed their popular La Cienega Boulevard restaurant Kikuchi late last month after seven years. ∙ Mike Bryant has been promoted from executive sous chef to chef de cuisine at Norman's on Sunset Boulevard. Refined rustic / by Barbara Hansen This rich duck sauce is the basis of a dish called bigoli all' anatra after the thick, rustic semolina spaghetti called bigoli, in Verona, hometown of Chiara Conti of Fabiolus Café on Melrose. At Fabiolus, it's a frequent special, served with house-made bigoli, but it can also be served with tagliatelle, ordinary spaghetti or any other pasta cooked al dente. New sausage ideas? He's on the casing / by Charles Perry Bucking the trend of shrinking services in meat departments, Richard Schwartzberg offers about 10 kinds of fresh sausage a day as meat manager of Bob's Market in Santa Monica. New coat for a classic / by Jenn Garbee It's hard to imagine that classic, stainless steel mixing bowls could be improved, but the new melamine-coated stainless bowls from Crate & Barrel have done just that. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Bera Sassisto Langhe: Piedmont; about $22; warm and earthy; goes with salami, prosciutto, pasta dishes, braised veal shank. Sassisto is a blend of Barbera with 10% Nebbiolo. Old vines mean concentration and heft. LETTERS Past favorites, new arrivals Thanks for the article on the "culinary awakening" of Culver City ["Something's Cooking," by S. Irene Virbila, May 3]. Terrific that we are getting so many new restaurants, but we shouldn't forget those that have nourished us for the past few years. Foie gras ban is a matter of respect While I believe that one should be sensible about all things, I don't think that absence of foie gras is going to affect gourmet dining ["Chicago Says No to Foie," by Russ Parsons, May 3]. It's tasty and all that, but the planet will continue spinning if I never get to eat it again. I totally disagree with the suggestion by some chefs that other edibles may be targeted next. If the overall result of this ban is for us to treat all living things with a little more respect, then it's the right thing to do. Let's enjoy our food, but let's not torture absolutely everything before we eat it! For the record Nutritional information — In last week's Food, the nutritional breakdown for the recipe for La Terza's risotto with clams and fava beans was wrong. The correct breakdown is 471 calories; 20 grams protein; 66 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 24 mg. cholesterol; and 773 mg. sodium. Wine shop's name — An article in last week's Food on the Culver City food scene gave the incorrect name for a wine shop and tasting bar opening there soon. It is BottleRock, not Bottle Rocket. Stonehill Tavern manager — An April 26 Food review of Stonehill Tavern, the restaurant at St. Regis Resort Monarch Beach, stated that manager Tim Flowers is a master of wine. He is not. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Nestled in the trees of Ojai / by S. Irene Virbila Auberge at Ojai is given a 2* rating. Chef-owner Christian Shaffer brings a welcome French- Californian sensibility to his Auberge. He limits his menu to eight first courses and eight main courses. Mind you, Shaffer changes the menu monthly, to take advantage of the seasons over at the farmers’ market. Consider most of the entrees as updated comfort food, with a few cutting-edge dishes. And the cost of all the main courses is under $30. I can't help but think Auberge at Ojai is the beginning of a beautiful restaurant in a beautiful place. Alternative brunchality / by Leslie Brenner Critic’s notebook on Four Seasons Biltmore Santa Barbara. After a six-month renovation, the legendary Bella Vista restaurant at the Four Seasons Biltmore Santa Barbara had just reopened, and the Sunday brunch had no shortage of ardent fans. But is it worth the $65-per-person price tag? Maybe not. Fortunately for Brenner, and her mother, they found a better way to take in that ocean view, and it involves real Champagne. Here’s to you Mom / by Leslee Komaiko Can't see Mom this Sunday? Treat her to lunch another day instead, with a glass of bubbly and a postcard view. Includes five restaurants: The Tower Bar on Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; Top of the Cove on Prospect St., La Jolla; Oak Grill on Country Club Road, Ojai; Oceanfront on Ocean Way, Santa Monica; Restaurant 162' on Ritz-Carlton Drive, Dana Point.

I don't mind giving prices. Here's what it cost me: $350 for the 16-course menu ; $60.00 for two glasses of wine (Bourgogne, different years, $40 & $20) ; $10 for sparkling water (Badoit, 1 liter). Then, there was tax (7.75% @ $32.55). The sub-total comes to $452.55. The tip/gratuity (20% @ $85, which I decided on. It was not included in the bill) makes the grand total $537.55. And it was worth it. For me, this was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience. The restaurant will present you with a choice of the 6-course menu and the 16-course meenu. There is an a la carte menu. You must ask for it.

Shaun, you're right. You reminded me when I had my conversation with Michael Cimarusti after my dinner at Providence. He said that he was happy to be mentioned among all these other great chefs.

Shaun, [sARCASM]Don't you realize that NEW YORK, NEW YORK is the center of the culinary universe???[/sARCASM] If you really want to be cynical, The Modern seems to be the logical choice: JBF is based in New York. That eliminates the four non-NY nominees. Of the two NY nominees remaining, would they have given the award to Mario Batali? So, that leaves them with The Modern. Of course, we shouldn't be so cynical, right?? As for me, I've already dined at three of the six places. It'll be a long while before I'll be able to try the other three restaurants.

And the 2006 JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION AWARD CATEGORY: BEST NEW RESTAURANT goes to ... The Modern Owner: Danny Meyer; Chef: Gabriel Kreuther 11 West 53rd Street; New York, NY 10019; 212-333-1220 The Modern at MoMA website The Modern discussion thread That's it, folks. Any comments?

cyf (aka Shaun), I would agree with you about Michael Cimarusti. I posted my Providence experience here. Carolyn, thanks for the update. I haven't tried Patina yet. Hopefully, better days are ahead for chef Joachim Splichal.

Daniel, where did you go? Who did you eat with? How many were in the group? Were "they" dead-set against sharing? Were there any Chinese in the group? Were they from New York ... or Manhattan ... or some other planet? Pardon the inquisition ... The only time I wouldn't share at a Chinese restaurant is when I'm eating by myself (Yes, I don't share with myself ). There are some Chinese dishes that could be described as "complete meals": noodle soups, rice dishes (i.e., Chinese roast duck with tofu over rice), chow mein. Even when I go out to a Chinese restaurant with friends who may not be familiar with the happenings in a Chinese-Chinese restaurant, I would give an explanation of communal Chinese dining. Usually, everyone would go along with that type of dining. Daniel, if you need some reassurances after that unique experience, just come out to Los Angeles and I'll help you sort this thing out.

My full report with photos can be found in the April in Vegas thread, including Shibuya. Thanks for the recommendation, everyone! The culinary research in Las Vegas will continue, once research funding has been secured ...

In the latest edition of LA Downtown News, a little news brief titled "Patina Owner goes Private": Joaquim Splichal and Nick Valenti are going to head up this new independent group and expand the Patina brand name to different locations. Does anyone here have any more details about this development?

I’ve heard & read so many things about this place. The LA Times food critic gave it four stars. She rarely does that! Before I went in, I took a few photos outside the restaurant, or I tried too. My hands were shaking. I couldn’t hold the camera still! Well, here’s a somewhat decent photo of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, the more casual restaurant: I was the first diner to enter for the evening. Classical chamber music can be heard. Here are some opening photos: This is butter from Brittany, if my memory serves me correctly ... Le Pomme : cuillère de perles, de son jus rafraîchi d’un granité de vodka Apple pearl, vodka granité I tried to taste the amuse, but my hand was trembling. How embarassing! Am I nervous? Eventually, I managed to put the palate cleanser into my mouth. I hope I don’t become a nervous wreck by the end of the meal ... The server brought out a cart containing about a dozen different types of breads: brioches, milk breads, mini baguettes, country-style breads, brioches with Gruyère, basil brioches, bacon-filled bread , etc. Three types of bread Le Caviar Osciètre : dans une délicate gelée recouverte d’une onctueuse crème de chou-fleur Oscetra caviar topped with a delicate gelée and a smooth cauliflower cream Le Foie Gras : en mille-feuille caramélisé d’anguille fumée aux saveurs orientales Foie gras, mille-feuille of smoked eel with oriental flavors Le Thon : en tartare, poivron rouge confit à la bergamote et au jambon séché Tuna tartar, cold red bell pepper confit with bergamot and dry cured ham La Langoustine : truffée et cuite en ravioli à l’étuvée de chou vert Truffled langoustine ravioli with steamed green cabbage La Laitue : en fin velouté sur un flan tremblotant à l’oignon doux Light lettuce cream on top of a delicate sweet onion custard Two other types of bread La Noix de Saint-Jacques : en cannelloni aux courgettes sous un voile de lard d’Arnad et une émulsion de parmigiano Cannelloni of Scallops and zucchini, parmesan emulsion Le Homard : au coulis de pissenlit avec quelques feuilles crues de bardes-de-capucin relevéees d’une vinaigrette coralline Lobster, pissenlit coulis, capucin leaves and sea urchin vinaigrette L’Os à Mœlle : de bœuf de Kobé aux légumes printaniers Kobe beef bone marrow, spring vegetables L’Ormeau : et l’artichaut poivrade dans un court bouillon au gingembre Abalone, baby artichokes in a ginger bouillon Le Bar : poêlé à la citronnelle avec une étuvée de jeunes poireaux Pan-fried sea bass with a lemon grass foam and stewed baby leeks L’Amadai : cuit en écailles et servi sur une nage au yuriné Pan-fried Amadai in a lily bulb broth Le Veau : en côte au plat avec un jus gras et escorté de taglierinis de légumes au pistou Sautéed veal chop with natural jus and vegetable taglierinis flavored with pesto L’Epeautre : du pays de Sault mitonné et doré à la feuille d’or Sault wild oatmeal, gold leaf Please prepare yourselves for the desserts ... Le Bahia : en fin crémeux de papaye, jus de cassis Goyave and papaye granité, cream of cassis and orange macaron La Fraise : glacée aux coquelicots, en popcorns caramélisés, sirop de cachaça Poppy sorbet, caramelized popcorns, cachaça syrup The Sorbet Cart Coffee bean, guava, green apple I like the guava sorbet the best of the three. The tea list The Tea Cart Assam tea Surprisingly, this was the highlight of my meal. My server pours the designated amount of Assam loose tea leaves into the teapot, adds the water, and instructs me to wait about 2-3 minutes before pouring the tea. I poured the Assam tea into my teacup accordingly, and I began to sip my tea. Then, I noticed something: the tea was hot, but not scalding hot. It was as though the water was heated to the correct temperature. This was blowing my mind. Such precision! Such attention to detail! The Mignardise Cart I showed restraint: I chose only seven. A pistachio financier, a rocher which was created “by accident” by one of the pastry chefs, a lemon truffle, a sake-infused meringue, a passion fruit truffle, an espresso truffle, and a cannele de Bordeaux. This was the best meal I have ever had ... and the most expensive ... and it was worth it ... Joël Robuchon at the Mansion

On Fri. morning of my "April in Vegas" trip, I started my drive from Los Angeles. Instead of driving right into Las Vegas Blvd. (aka “The Strip”), I turned right on the 146 towards Henderson. It took a while finding Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana. Driving eastbound on Horizon Ridge, I had to go past Eastern & past Green Valley to find the place. Yeah! I found it! And it’s time for lunch. Bianca pizza After a long drive from LA, this pizza hit the spot! I loved that crust. Fresh ingredients. Absolutely delicious. Grazie! The oven The dining area As for the gelato, it was suppose to come on Sat. (29 Apr.). I dropped by on Sat. afternoon. No gelato. I was so bummed. I drank some iced tea and left. I’ll be back ... I came back on Sun. for lunch. Apparently, the gelato did arrive late Sat. afternoon. Mind you, the gelato was so hard, they decided not to serve it Sat. night. Marinara pizza I wanted to eat something very light & simple before my dinner at Joël Robuchon at the Mansion. And here it is: just the crust and the sauce. Not even cheese! Hazelnut gelato (slightly frozen) I have the honor of being the first customer to order gelato at Settebello! During my vacation in Las Vegas, I got to meet and talk with the owner Brad, rooberu’s brother. rooberu, you have a great brother! I’m definitely hoping Brad will open a location in Los Angeles. It’s worth the detour from the Strip over to Henderson!

On an early Fri. night during my "April in Vegas" trip, I had a reservation for Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare at the Wynn Resort. Bartolotta At the center, there’s a long spiral staircase, down to the main dining area and outdoor dining area. My table setting A view from my table Bread and butter A situation ensues: I wanted to have the branzino (seabass) as my main entree. My server stated plainly that the smallest branzino weighed 800 grams (2 pounds). That’s a lot of fish! Mind you, I really wanted to have the branzino. Well, the decision was made: a sea scallop appetizer, hand-crafted tagliolini with langoustines, and their fish special for the evening, an amberjack. I really appreciated my server’s thoughtfulness. More later. cappesante dorate con porcini seared sea scallops with porcini mushrooms I love sea scallops and this dish did not disappoint at all. The best dish of the evening. tagliolini agli scampi handcrafted thin ribbon pasta with langoustines, and pomini tomatoes The pasta tasted fine. The langoustines were small and in their shells. I noticed an abundance of the pomini tomatoes in the pasta. The fish special: amberjack with sliced olives, capers and tomatoes The fish tasted moist. Very well prepared. torta di Ligure al limone Ligure lemon torte with rosemary sorbet & balsamic syrup I liked this dessert with its combination of flavors! Check out the lemon curd that’s flowing out of the torte. And the thin crisp layer on top. Earl Grey tea By the end of the meal, I felt full. It was just enough food. And now, back to the branzino ... There’s still a part of me that really wanted the branzino so much that I would have ordered just the branzino with a salad and some vegetables and that’s it. The fish special was more of a quick decision, to be honest. Mind you, I really do appreciate my server’s thoughtful consideration for me having a wonderful meal. It is nice to have a server who is not fixated on “padding the bill.” So, the next time I have dinner at Bartolotta, I will go for the branzino.

Usually, I don’t do mornings. Mind you, I got up Sat. morning on my "April in Vegas" trip to have breakfast at Bouchon at the Venetian. Now, half of the fun was trying to find the place. I walked all the way down this hallway to the Venetian’s registration area that’s located to the left of the fountain. By the registration area is a side entry to a set of elevators. I went up one floor, got out of the elevator, and ... I walked all the way down this hallway until ... I found the entrance to Bouchon. Du pain, du beurre et de la confiture I wanted to order the quiche. I remembered the LA Times article Russ Parsons wrote about quiche based on Thomas Keller’s recipe found in his Bouchon cookbook. The quiche du jour was spinach: Quiche me, mon ami I tasted the quiche and it was very, very creamy. Creamy, smooth, the crust was crunchy for a nice contrast. The quiche was not overcooked at all.

In the 3 May 2006 edition of the LA Times Food Section Digest, LA Times food critic S. Irene Virbila wrote an article titled, "Something's cooking": It's a really great article! It gives a little history of the old Helms Bakery back in the '30's and the current Culver City scene. And it all started with Kazuto Matsusaka and Beacon Cafe. It sounds like Culver City is worth checking out. NB ayana, JFLinLA is not a sir. Right, JFLinLA?

I just got back from Las Vegas. Now, I have dined at three of the six nominees: Providence Bartolotta Joël Robuchon at the Mansion Of the three, Joël Robuchon at the Mansion was clearly the best. The food, the creativity, the decor, the service, the precision, ... I could go on, when I post my report over in the Southwest forum later. I would say it's between Robuchon or Alinea. With less than a week left, is Alinea pretty much the favorite? Or will it be a nod to the "Chef of the Century"?

LA Times Food Section – May 3, 2006 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Something's cooking / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on the Culver City scene. The chefs are coming -- and so are the bakers, wine bars, foodies, cafes. Culver City is hot. Not since the old Helms Bakery back in the ‘30’s through the ‘60’s has Culver City had a flurry of food activity. And it didn’t happen by accident ... Culver City address book Here’s the list with their weblinks: Beacon ; Bluebird Bakery ; Café Nagomi ; Dolce Forno Bakery ; Ford's Filling Station ; Kaizuka ; K-Zo Restaurant ; New School of Cooking ; Surfas ; Café Surfas ; Tender Greens ; Wilson The edge of greatness / by Leslie Brenner Sliced razor thin, raw vegetables and fresh fruits take on new texture and flavor. Now that's a clever salad! And you don’t need a razor with some shaving cream. Just a mandoline, a vegetable peeler, or a very sharp knife. Includes four recipes: Artichoke salad; Shaved fennel salad with smoked salmon; Shaved cantaloupe with prosciutto and mint; Tuna carpaccio with shaved fennel and watermelon A simmer most delicate / by Regina Schrambling If Dinah Washington had ever recorded a song about stew in springtime, the first line would have to be, "What a difference a name makes." While the word “stew” can sound very wintry, how about trying some lighter & jazzier versions, like blanquette, ragout, or fricassee? Includes three recipes: Blanquette de veau; Seafood stew; Spring chicken The accidental vintner / by Corie Brown Brian Talley decided to share his grape-growing turf. Fortunately, he found a few neighbors willing to take a gamble. Talley comes from a vegetable farm family and doesn’t know “beans” about growing a vineyard. Thus, he makes an unconventional offer to two neighboring vintners. But if it works, it could be a template for how to shift more fields from vegetables to vineyards. Includes the side article, ”Pinot Noirs from Stone Corral” Chicago says no to foie / by Russ Parsons The city bans foie gras, but chefs refuse to give in quietly. California awaits the same fate. And some chefs ... trace the ban to a very public, very heated feud last year between two of Chicago's top chefs: Charlie Trotter, who announced that he had stopped serving foie gras, and Rick Tramonto, chef at TRU, one of Trotter's main luxe dining competitors. There are three discussion threads about this topic: Chicago is the first city to ban foie gras ; Chicago's foie gras list ; Trotter and Tramonto square off over Foie Gras (Chicago Tribune article) Crepes at midnight, with a side of fries / by Susan LaTempa Solar de Cahuenga carves out a niche with the idea that cravings happen at all hours. Owner Milton Sznaider, born and raised in Argentina, has taken the location on the corner of Franklin and Cahuenga and turned it into a nice nieghborhood hangout, with an eclectic mix of a coffeehouse meets crêperie meets hookah bar (sans alcohol). And starting May 15, it’ll be open from 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. (midnight, for now). If life gives you heaps of avocados, make guacamole / by Leslie Brenner The markets are awash in creamy, rich Hass -- at prices that won't break the bank. Avocados are now in season and are available at every farmers’ market stand. Better stock up on tortilla chips. Includes a recipe for: Guacamole A first course, pretty on the plate / by Barbara Hansen Chef-owner Gino Angelini of La Terza on West 3rd Street in Los Angeles only makes this risotto of tiny favas, clams and carnaroli rice when he can get the first young, tender favas of spring. He'll have it on the menu until the middle of June; it recently caught the attention of Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila. The craft of beer now an open book / by Charles Perry If you're into craft beers, really into them, sooner or later you're going to have to get a big black book titled "The Essential Reference of Domestic Brewers and Their Bottled Brands, 2nd Edition" (MC Basset, $47.50). Beer lovers Michael S. Kuderka and Catherine A. Ench-Kuderka have packed a huge amount of information into its 341 pages. And yes, California is not only this country’s wine capital, but also this country’s beer capital as well. English tradition preserved / by Charles Perry This fudge-thick old-fashioned marmalade has a rich, winy orange flavor and a refreshing bitter edge. E. Waldo Ward & Son of Sierra Madre has been making it for the last 88 years from Seville oranges ... WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Domaine Courbis Saint-Joseph 'Les Royes': Northern Rhône; about $30; concentrated and lush; goes with charcuterie, grilled ribs, steak frites, beef daube with olives. ... [T]his is a Saint-Joseph that's got everything going for it: gorgeous fruit, solid structure, beguiling flavors and real character. For the record Commander's Palace chef — An article in last week's section about the Museum of the American Cocktail in Las Vegas said the Commander's Palace chef is Carlos H. Gula. His last name is Guia. Spanish wine — The Wine of the Week column in last week's section stated that Albariño Pedralonga is made in Spain's Basque country. It is from Galicia. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Where classic is prime / by S. Irene Virbila The Pacific Dining Car in Santa Monica is given a 1½* rating. Santa Monica's Pacific Dining Car trades flash for the familiar with its lavish house-aged steaks and traditional sides. With the latest arrivals of trendy, Hollywood-type steakhouses, PDC is the antithesis of flash. The menu is classic steakhouse, with items a la carte. The martini is made with gin, not vodka. We’re talking classic, ladies and gentlemen. Still, if you want to live large and spend big on the Westside in the middle of the night, Pacific Dining Car is your kind of place. There is a discussion about this topic: Southern California steakhouses Crepes at midnight, with a side of fries / by Susan LaTempa Solar de Cahuenga carves out a niche with the idea that cravings happen at all hours. Owner Milton Sznaider, born and raised in Argentina, has taken the location on the corner of Franklin and Cahuenga and turned it into a nice nieghborhood hangout, with an eclectic mix of a coffeehouse meets crêperie meets hookah bar (sans alcohol). And starting May 15, it’ll be open from 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. (midnight, for now). Translating Koi chic into Italian / by S. Irene Virbila Critic’s notebook on Bridge on La Cienega Blvd. The new Italian restaurant from Nick and Dipu Haque, is as splashy as they come along this stretch of La Cienega Boulevard. The chefs are Santos MacDonal and Mirko Paderno, whose last gig was as the chef at Dolce in West Hollywood. The menu is your standard L.A. Italian restaurant. Why open just another Italian restaurant? Because the Haque brothers already have a seemingly inexhaustible audience at Koi. Restaurant row / by Leslee Komaiko Not sure what you want to eat? La Cienega Boulevard has just about everything a hungry man, or woman, could want. Includes five restaurants: Lawry's on 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; L'Orangerie on 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood; Gyu-Kaku on 163 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; Le Petit Bistro on 631 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood; Sona on 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood.

In the 26 April 2006 edition of the LA Times Food Section Digest, LA Times food critic S. Irene Virbila reviews Stonehill Tavern at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort. Irene did not mince words about Stonehill Tavern, or the former Aqua ...

LA Times Food Section – April 26, 2006 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Of milk and silk / by Russ Parsons Burrata, the dreamy, creamy cousin of mozzarella, may have roots in Italy, but its home is in L.A. Since 1993, Gioia Cheese Co., located in South El Monte & owned by Vito Girardi, was about the only American company making burrata. Cantaré Foods in San Diego started making it in 1996. Russ Parsons wants to build a statue of Girardi in his honor for introducing this wonderful cheese to the United States. Maybe he’s right ... Includes two recipes: Angelini beet salad; Bruschetta with burrata and radicchio marmalade; and the side article, ”Tracking down fresh burrata’ Cocktail museum, cocktail chaser / by Jenny Hontz The name itself evokes the clink of ice in a glass. So it may seem fitting that a museum celebrating the history of the cocktail has just moved into town. The Museum of the American Cocktail, founded in New Orleans, was displaced by Hurricane Katrina. ... o when the owners of the original New Orleans Commander's Palace offered space at their Las Vegas branch, the museum founders — an intrepid band of cocktail professionals, collectors and enthusiasts — packed up lock, stock and 200-year-old crock jugs and moved into one of the restaurant's banquet rooms in March. Includes four drink recipes: Gin-Gin Mule; La Perla; Brandy Crusta 21; Tiger's Eye Meeting up in Paris / by Amy Scattergood Daniel Young's 'The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris' is a vicarious visit to the City of Light, filled with classic tastes and twists. Part cultural guide, part cookbook, and written by the former restaurant critic of the New York Daily News, 'The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris' includes about one hundred bistro favorites. Includes four recipes: Pan-fried goat cheese salad with hazelnut vinaigrette; Garlic soup with mussels; Pan-seared cod with potato and smoked sausage purée; Pineapple brochettes with saffron caramel Perfecting the art of the cocktail / by Susan LaTempa Right now, we're in a golden age of American cocktails. More and more, bartenders at the best lounges and bars are offering lists of aperitifs, small-plates drinks and after-dinner drinks that sparkle with sophistication and creativity. And a common notion among mixologists is a foundation in the classics. Tony Abou-Ganim says, ”If you don't understand the classics, it's tough to understand what makes a great cocktail. It comes down to balance, just like cooking." Don't wait: Grab the garnet glow / by Amy Scattergood Blood oranges get amazingly sweet and gloriously red as the season ebbs. Easter tends to mark the beginning of the end for the blood orange season. A folksy caveat marks Easter as a the signal of the end, the blood of Christ a reminder that the blood oranges will soon be gone from the trees. Includes three recipes: Blood orange tart; Blood orange Martini; Fanny's strawberry-orange compote Pork with plenty of Korean-style sizzle / by Linda Burum Every meal's a party at Honey Pig. The vibe is upbeat as diners feast on tabletop barbecue. Honey Pig, located on W. 8th St. in Koreatown, specializes in samgyeopsal jip (or pork belly barbecue house), combined with contemporary scene. A table topper to floor you / by Leslie Brenner Endives make a cunning display at the dining table. At Jer-ne restaurant at the Ritz Carlton, Marina Del Rey, former executive chef Troy Thompson came up with the idea of placing an endive root in a square case as part table art, part science project. BTW, , Thompson is set to be chef at David Burke Las Vegas, with a planned August opening at the Venetian. In the meantime, Dakota Weiss has taken Thompson's place as chef at Jer-ne. Also in the news: • Tim Goodell put to rest the rumor that his Melrose Avenue new American restaurant Meson G is going to become a Red Pearl Kitchen, calling it "completely false • Three on Fourth is slated to open the week of May 3 in the old Rocca space in Santa Monica • Solare, the Italian restaurant that opened last fall in the space formerly occupied by Em Bistro, has closed • Chef James Boyce of Studio in Laguna Beach has created several citrus-themed "flights," really themed menus with cocktails. With a glass of red ... / by Barbara Hansen A variation on classic French pot-au-feu, this hearty dish appealed to Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila when she dined at Lou, a new wine bar on Vine Street in Los Angeles. LOS ANGELES TIMES LIST FOR APRIL 26, 2006 Maraschino liqueur / by Susan LaTempa The Italian company Luxardo makes all kinds of liqueurs — amaretto, limoncello, espresso — but Maraschino Luxardo in its straw-jacketed green bottle is a classic. Distilled and aged two years, it's made from a variety of sour cherry. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2004 Albariño Pedralonga: Rias Baixas; about $19; crisp and minerally; goes with shellfish, peel 'n' eat shrimp, seafood paella, light summer dishes. It's a wonderfully versatile warm-season wine that can hold its own against all kinds of seafood. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories A new energy by the beach / by S. Irene Virbila Stonehill Tavern is given a 3* rating. The St. Regis Resort Monarch Beach has replaced the former Aqua restaurant with a newly-opened Stonehill Tavern, Michael Mina’s newest venture. To Mina's credit and the hotel's, the change is no half-hearted effort, but a total rethinking of the restaurant from the design and décor to the concept, the management and the menu. He's brought in a crack team to retool the restaurant. There is a discussion about this restaurant: Stonehill Tavern Pork with plenty of Korean-style sizzle / by Linda Burum At Honey Pig, the stylish vibe is upbeat as diners feast on communal barbecue. Honey Pig, located on W. 8th St. in Koreatown, specializes in samgyeopsal jip (or pork belly barbecue house), combined with contemporary scene. Sushi? What a fresh idea / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Mia Sushi in Eagle Rock. Owner Rudy Martinez converted to the rest of his mortgage office building into a sushi restaurant, after getting tired of driving to Little Tokyo to eat sushi. Named for his daughter, Mia Sushi serves better fish, and includes an outdoor patio complete with a glass water feature and feathery bamboo hedges. Come full-on summer, it's going to be near impossible to get a seat out here. Where Buddha sits / by Leslee Komaiko Buddha has gone from spiritual symbol to pop icon, appearing on T-shirts and, now, at a restaurant near you. Includes five restaurants: Zen Zoo Tea Cafe on S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; Moz Buddha Lounge on Agoura Road, Agoura Hills; Nirvana Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; Ten Asian Bistro on Macarthur Blvd., Newport Beach; Buddha's Belly on Beverly Blvd., L.A.

Yes, mother dear ... (You hang in there, young man!) That is a great fruit arrangement. Who made it? Do they also do floral arrangements made of vegetables?

I think you'll like Sushi Gen. Mind you, beware about weekday lunch time. A co-worker & I were going to have lunch there and there was a waiting list of 16. Sushi Gen just recently re-opened for lunch because they were expanding/renovating their kitchen. I haven't eaten at the sushi bar ... yet. I usually order the combination of tonkatsu & sashimi for under $20 (dinner).