Gary Tanigawa

Since I was running low on Hine Antique (which I understood to be equivalent in quality to XO cognac), I recently purchased two bottles at a great price (only $40 instead of the usual $80). Opening the box, I noticed that the shape of the bottle had been redesigned. Too much of a good thing? I have now read that Hine will be labeling what used to be called "Antique" as "XO" (a marketing move to justify its price?), but no indication that the Antique name would be continued. So my question: does anyone here know if Hine is now marketing a sub-XO cognac as Antique? If so, I need to find my receipt and take it back to the store. I have made a cursory search on the web, but could not find any information about a name change (I saw news of the change in the Wine Enthusiast) or a company site. TIA for any help you can provide .

Any other opinions on the tasting menu at No. 9 Park?

Just came back from first meal at Nouveau East. Not bad, I will probably return but it's not at the top of my list of local restaurants for straight-ahead nigiri (yet?). Only had sushi so I can't speak about the rest of the menu. I also ordered ala carte (mid-range prices) so I can't say what would be the value (quality/cost ratio) of a lunch/dinner set. When I ordered the toro sashimi appetizer, the chef (to his credit) told me that toro was only available as sushi. He did, however, offer aji which was was a whole fish filleted into four pieces of sashimi and two pieces of sushi served with its own ginger/(ponzu?) sauce. Nice presentation with the sashimi served on a bed of shredded daikon, resting on the remains of the filleted fish in a bamboo basket. As others have mentioned, the unagi was good. I would have preferred having more heat in the spicy tuna maki. Soft-shell crab handroll was not greasy. Rice was not the freshest it could be but I've had worst in a Japanese restaurant. Although the aji, hamachi, and hotate (scallop) did not smell fishy, they didn't have much flavor either. The chef appeared to be skillful enough but I have the feeling that he might be limited by his fish budget. Unless he has clientele who demands top of the line fish and is willing to pay for it, he won't be able to stock the "good stuff" and maintain adequate turnover. I would still recommend Yamazato (N. Va.) and Makoto (D.C.) over other local places where I've eaten sushi. If you need a pan-Asian restaurant to satisfy a group with different preferences, Nouveau East gets my recommendation over Cafe Asia in Rosslyn. Also, given the noise from the brewpub next door, a talkative group would not feel out of place (in contrast to a more intimate Japanese restaurant).

Good. I keep the reservation then ! Thanks F-G.

<HIJACK=ON I was planning on going to Bradley Ogden next month. Lavender, does your comment on CP apply to Bradley Ogden? Just wondering because I have read complimentary things about that CP restaurant. HIJACK=OFF>

Hi Elle, There is a recipe for Peche-Peche which is made from mochi and purple rice. Is Bod Bod similar?

Welcome to eGullet, Ryan. I've enjoyed your weblog on In Medias Res.

Rita Ariyoshi in the March 2004 issue of "Islands" magazine mentions Big Island Candies (Hilo) and Popo's Cookies (Kauai). Sorry Sun-Ki, but I don't have any answers to your questions.

Article by Rita Ariyoshi in the March 2004 of "Islands" magazine (had to buy it for this article) listing sources for omiyage (these seemed interesting): OAHU Coco Puffs from Liliha Bakery Mochi from Shirokiya (orange and peanut butter flavored?) MAUI Manju from Sam Sato's restaurant in the Mill Yard area of Wailuku Maui-sadas from Simply Sweets Bakery in Kahului BIG ISLAND Ohelu berry preserves from Hirano Store in Glenwood Dark chocolate honu from Kailua Candy Company in Kailua-Kona KAUAI Bread sticks from Kilauea Bakery Anahola granola Kauai fudge from Long's Drug Store Taro Ko Chips in Hanapepe LANAI Jam made by Dolores Fabrao Bread from Central Bakery Sun-Ki, your list has considerable overlap with her list (but I didn't mention the duplicates in my condensation)! Cookies listed on the appropriate thread.

Thanks Sun-Ki, but I don't think that's what I was thinking about The inclusion of mayo as a coating for fried chicken is, as you say, compatible with local tastes!

Thanks Sun-Ki. The list of ingredients has strengthened my memory of it. I think my mother and aunt made it with boneless (?) chicken thighs. So the next "recovered memory" assignment is to confirm my family / childhood memory of fried chicken which was coated in mayo (!) before frying. Ever heard of it?

Hanamaulu Chicken. Ever heard of it? I have vague childhood memories of the name (my parents were born on Kauai so maybe it's associated with the Tea House), but don't remember anything more . . . including what it tastes like!

Have some sherry, John. Or was it Spanish brandy?

I agree that Kaz Sushi had the best listing of veggie sushi in the area. The menu lists them, but the web site shows: Japanese Egg Plant, Grilled Portobello Mushroom, Asparagus and Roasted Bell Pepper Roll, and Sun-Dried Tomato and Portobello Mushroom Roll. Ask to have the menu faxed to you (as it offers to do). But the best thing to do is to sit at any sushi bar and ask for things not on the menu and specify that the sushi can only contain vegetables. If the guy cannot respond with stuff you like, move on to the next restaurant. You shouldn't feel embarassed to stop the "experiment" early if the first one or two orders aren't satisfactory. It's inexpensive because you won't have spent more than a few dollars for two orders ala carte (order miso soup and a seaweed salad before finishing if you don't want to appear to be rejecting the veggie choices s/he has been offering). A good chef should be able to respond. But note that if you find someone you like, other people in the same restaurant or the guy/gal who covers on days off will probably not be able to satisfy your needs because you are not ordering from the menu. In the past, I used to ask for sweet shrimp at the sushi bar (even if not listed on the menu) when it was not served in most places. So I found the restaurants that took the trouble to stock it. Many would promise that it was available "sometimes" but I quickly would find the places in a new city that actually served ama ebi. I don't order vegetarian dishes so I don't have any other specific recommendations, but I assume you wouldn't be satisfied with sushi made entirely from raw vegetables. Therefore the chef needs to be ready to cook them on the spot (look for restaurants that offer lots of grilled vegetables like the robatayaki at Tako Grill) or have them pickled (tsukemono sushi?). I predict that places that you will be returning to will have already put some thought into how to accomodate your desires before you first dine there.

YAMAZATO 6303 Little River Tnpk., Alexandria, VA 22312 Phone: 703-914-8877Phone: 703-914-8877 (395 S from DC, take exit 3b, turn left at the first traffic light, right into a building office complex, park on the left-hand side of the lot) Try the "fresh" specials written on the whiteboard. The chef is creative but does not, imho, go overboard. Sushi and sashimi are good. The other items are okay, but I would not make a special point of going there for tempura etc. The lunch special (11am-3pm?) is good value for sushi/sashimi meals (I don't think the ala carte prices are lower).

You're welcome Susan . Glad I could contribute.

From the web: "A close relation to Amarone, Ripassa takes its name from the ancient process of Ripasso, literally meaning repassed. After the Valpolicella is fermented, it is put into vessels recently vacated by the Amarone. The wine soaked skins and lees that remain in these vessels initiate a slight refermentation, subsequently increasing both the alcohol and body of the wine. Once passed through the skins and lees, the wine remains in the tank for 6 months and is then aged in small oak barrels for 18-24 months." "Standard Valpolicella is usually a lightweight red, but the ripasso form is something else entirely. The name means "re-passed" in English, and that's a fair summary of the process: Select batches of Valpolicella are fermented over the winter in the usual way, but then are transferred in the spring into barrels that contain the crushed, dried grapeskins left over from the production of Amarone (the region's BIG red wine). "Re-passing" the lighter wine over its bigger brother's grape skins adds body, color and flavor and may even kick off a bit of additional fermentation which boosts its alcoholic content. The result is a much fuller-bodied, flavorful and intense wine than the standard Valpolicella." I've enjoyed Zenato Valpolicella Superiore Ripassa .

I agree with kaukaulesa about the great atmosphere at Jane's Fountain, the waitress contributes to that old Hawaii feel. I usually get saimin there (good, but my favorite is still Saimin Palace). The limited parking at both places, I think, disqualifies them for a lunch recommendation.

Thanks Sun-Ki, that's the place. Have you tried the fruit-filled breads? Not sure if it sounds like a good idea. Anyway, if mailed, they would probably spoil because of the moisture.

Irwin: I didn't appreciate the crabs available in Hawaii until I moved to Virginia. I'm not a fan of Chesapeake blue crabs unless they're made into a crab cake.

rlivings: That's it, Tasaka Guri-Guri in Kahalui (I found an online Star-Bulletin story). The recipe is supposed to be a secret!

Sun-Ki: nice list. Thanks. I also recall people bringing sherbert back from Maui (I guess they used dry ice?), but don't remember the source. I'm surprised that Kitch'n Cook'd is not widely available on Oahu because I think it was being stocked in many places when I still lived there. Perhaps production has been cut. I don't understand the popularity of Kauai Kookies. Had them sent to me in "care packages" when I was in college and didn't think they were very good. Recently, I've enjoyed Hawaiian sweetbread that my father buys from a bakery in Halawa valley. alanamoana: Hawaiian red salt from Hanapepe, Kauai? My grandfather lived near the salt ponds and thought it was the best. Thanks for reminding me that I need to get limu kohu (seaweed) and 'inamona (kukui nut) on my next trip to Hawaii, so I can make poke on the mainland. edit: typo corrected

There is a Japanese custom of gift giving when someone returns from a trip. In Hawaii, however, this custom was not restricted to those of Japanese ancestry. The traveler purchased a specialty of the place visited (usually food) and gave it to family, friends or coworkers at home when s/he returned (like a shared souvenir of the trip). When I visit Hawaii now, I purchase castella cake from Bunmeido bakery for a native Japanese friend living in No. Virginia. I recall my mother usually bringing home manju from Maui and cookies from Kauai. In the '60s, I remember relatives bringing See's candy ( !) from California. More recently, they were bringing Ethel M's candy from Las Vegas (now there is a store in Ala Moana). Since I have been gone from Hawaii for more than 20 years, I was wondering whether there are any consensus choices for omiyagi now: food (especially snacks) which can be easily transported on an interisland flight and are considered a specialty of the island/place visited. What have you brought back as omiyagi recently? edit: I forgot to ask, do you think omiyagi should be restricted in its distribution so that it is not normally available where you live? It seemed to be an important consideration for my mother in choosing what to bring home.

Haven't been there for a few months, but I have liked Tako Grill. It was good, but not great Japanese food especially the robatayaki dishes.

Follow-up question: I would have expected that the distillate is high proof. If this is what goes in the cask for ageing, then why are cask strength bottlings of relatively modest proof? I remember reading that the about 40% alcohol levels in most bottlings is achieved by dilution with water, but is there also a dilution step before whisky is put in the cask? TIA for any clarification you can provide.