If you have a designated driver a must do is the rum runner at the Tiki bar in Islamorada. I know, I know touristy sophmoric but, man it's a ritual for many. Manny & Isa's in Islamorada has good cuban food, I especially like the minty house dressing good roast pork, and a true key lime pie with limes grown in their own garden. I'm more familiar with the upper keys. Drop a line if you have more questions.