philadining

They did a very nice presentation with the cheese plate the night I had it, with a nice array of accompaniments, like honeycomb, nuts, fruit, etc. And the cheeses themselves were excellent. I'm embarrassed to say that I can't recall which ones they were, it was the end of the meal and we were near the bottom of the second bottle of wine, and I wasn't paying as close attention as I should have been. But as good as they were, the selections were a bit too close in character for the purpose of a cheese plate. I liked them all, but they felt like variations on a theme, rather than the broad range of density and ripeness and style that is more enjoyable in that particular context. I'm eager to get it again and see if that combination was a fluke. But that's not a complaint about the cheese, and barely one about the plating, it was still quite tasty. But in a perfect world.... So Trent, please report back on your meal. And I can't quite imagine you would order the cheese plate, but if you happen to see one go by, tell us what's on it!

We were wandering Old City the other day after a movie, or before a movie, or something... and felt like grabbing a drink, and because it was such a lovely day, we had the inspiration to hit the Moshulu's Bongo Bar. I'd read that it was really a nice spot now, a good place to have a cocktail, or grab a light bite, or maybe even a full meal. We sat at the bar itself, and had something less than that kind of experience... It was not very busy at the bar, yet it took a mysteriously long time to get served. There's no beer on tap, and a really lame selection by the bottle. Most of the cocktails are cutesy tropical things, understandable what with it being on a ship and all, and it IS called the Bongo Bar, but still... I ended up with an OK mojito, a little too sweet, but otherwise decent, except that it was in a disposable plastic cup. You know, I'm OK with 2-dollar beers a cup, but if I'm going to pay $9.50 for a cocktail, I'd like it in a glass. The caipirina had banana in it for some perverse reason, but at least it was in a glass. So it's not like they only have cups up there. But the overall vibe was just weird. On a nice day, it does indeed have a good view, and the tables along the rails or on the upper deck look pretty inviting. But the bar itself was just not working for me, the rickety wicker stools were too high, the geometry of the bar is such that the bartender is often very far away and hard to contact, there was a sense of back-of the house sloppiness, with dirty glasses stacked nearby, etc. And at least while I was there, the feel was kind of like an airport lounge or a conference hotel bar, mostly tourists and businessmen killing time. In their defense, the food looked and smelled pretty good, although i didn't sample anything myself. On a beautiful day, I might think about sitting at a table on deck and getting some appetizers, and finding something dignified to drink. But I won't be sitting around the bar again anytime soon.

Once again, major thanks to eastlake1972, for the translation of Tifco's Chinese menu. I've formatted it in a printable format, which might make it easier to use as a reference, or even bring to the restaurant, than trying to print the original post (and we filled-in a couple of blanks.) There's a .pdf file here. Of course we're not going to claim that this is perfect, and the restaurant would be within its rights to change or remove items any time they want. Just use this as an aid, it's not the "official" menu, you can get that at the restaurant. Enjoy!

O Sandwiches (there's actually a circumflex over the O, but I don't know how to code that...) is the new bahn mi joint located right between Geno's and La Lupe on 9th street. Their gimmick is that they bake their baguettes fresh right in the shop, which should make them extra good. They have a few more things on the menu, like croissant sandwiches, vermicelli-based "bun" and soft ricepaper-wrapped summer rolls. We got an order of grilled chicken summer rolls, which were huge and made-to-order, and pretty good, although I've had herbier ones. We had a special bahn mi, which had a healthy slice of pate, cucumber, carrots, cilantro, jalepenos and a little mayo. The pate had a nice assertive black-pepper kick and the jalepeno was not shy about announcing its presence. I was there pretty late at night, so I don't think they were baking bread right then. As a result, the baguette itself was good, but not outstanding, this is likely different mid-day. But overall it was a very good sandwich, in a good location, with an un-intimidating menu, at a good price (about $3.) It was pretty similar to others I've had, it might take a side-by-side comparison to say anything substantive about who's better or worse... I look forward to giving that a try soon! It took a bit longer than I would have expected to get the food, given that they weren't too busy, but I can live with that, given that they are making the sandwiches, and rolling the summer rolls, to order. Still seems like it should be faster food. Or maybe I'm just spoiled by the 4-and-a-half seconds it takes to get a cheesesteak next door.

In weird coincidence, a friend suggested heading down to Honey's for brunch today, so I threw caution to the wind and figure I'd give it a whirl. We must have done something right, because they remembered to put the canadian bacon on the Eggs Bennie: I don't think I've ever seen this made with huge pieces of Challah toast, but it was a nice twist. The hollandaise was bright and lemony, overall a nice version of this classic. I'm not so sure about the "latke", as described in an earlier post, it's a wedge carved out of a huge mondo-latke (the triangle at the right of the photo.) It's pretty thick and dense and not quite as crispy as I think latkes ought to be, but it's not bad... maybe I'd like it better if they called it something else. They had run out of plums for the french toast special posted on the blackboard, but offered cherries as a substitution: This was really quite delicious and about three times as big as I could eat. The cherries and "vanilla whip" were such good toppings that I barely touched the syrup. The french toast itself was nice and light, and well-prepared. I got some of their home-made sausage, which was very good. It reminds me of the sausage at the Morning Glory, but more spicy and less herby. OK, anybody want to guess about the service? Actually it wasn't bad. We went later in the day, maybe about 2:30 or 3, and it was pretty empty, so there was none of that overcrowded chaos, but it was still pretty S.....L......O......W....... No problems other than that, everyone was very nice, and we got everything we asked for, it just took a while to order, to get coffee refills, etc. So we actually had a pretty nice meal. I suspect the trick is to go to Honey's when it's not busy, and when you're not in a hurry! I think I still slightly prefer the food at the Morning Glory, but I can't always deal with the lines down there on a sunday. But I'd go back to Honey's, just maybe not if it's crowded...

Paul, that looks like a nice design, I think the booths next to the conveyor is a great idea for all the reasons you mentioned. One thing: so how do the two-tops get their food?

I don't know if I'd try Szechuan tasty House in this circumstance, although the chef is darn good with a deep-frier and they're very accommodating! I think Katie had some good ideas, and also keep Sang Kee in mind. You can get the General Tso's Chcken with the sauce on the side, which amounts to great fried chicken (breast only) for one son, and the other two of you can dip to your hearts' content in a great sauce. And they make good dumplings, and I have yet to meet a kid that doesn't like their sweet, sticky roast pork. Good luck, and please tell us what you do, and how it goes!

I'll add my voice to the chorus lauding that Steak Frites at Majolica, it really might be the best one I've ever had. The meat is indeed amazingly tender, despite having that nice hanger steak chew-factor. The sauce underneath is dark and winey, but it's the butter melting over the top that really pushes this over the top. It's full of herbs, and according to Philly Mag, a bit of anchovy. I'm pretty sure there's crack in it. Or heroin. And I too loved those mussels, but we almost got in a fist-fight with the waitress when she tried to take the bowl away. Of course, dipping bread in the broth is one of the best parts to any mussel experience, but this stuff was especially good: extra buttery and herby. Wait a minute... I'm seeing a trend... there's some sort of addictive drug in this broth too. They change the menu a bit each month, but I hope they don't mess with those two standards too much, I could go back for those every week or so... But they did a fine job with more elegant dishes than those bistro classics too. I'm not a huge salmon fan, but the version that sits atop a brioche crouton over a truffle-butter sauce? I'd eat that any day. I stole a taste of a roasted halibut dish that was quite nice as well. I almost always order duck when it's on the menu, but sadly I had the same experience as quoted in the Philly Mag review, in that they undercooked it a bit. I like it rare-ish, but not THAT rare... but now I know, i'll ask them to keep it on the fire a little longer. The spicing and apricot concasse that came with it made it pretty darn good regardless! I haven't tried the rabbit-prune thing that Percy showed, but both times I was there we got a nice dollop of tuna tartare on a homemade potato chip. We were joking that if we could just get a bag of those chips and a jug of mussel broth, we'd be happy for weeks... I really liked the roasted scallop appetizer, served on a bed of lentils, scented with bay leaf. And I'm guessing it will only be a summer offering, but the cold lobster starter was really nice too, perfectly cooked, and nicely plated. I've only been there twice, and was very impressed with almost everything. Little touches, like a truly refreshing complimentary intermezzo of citrus sorbet with basil and olive oil, made it clear that they're serious about the food, and playful too. The owner mentioned that they're willing to do a tasting menu on weeknights, so it could be worth calling and asking about that. Or just go and order off the menu. They're just a few doors down and across the street from the Colonial Theater in Phoenixville, so if you time it right, you could get a nice meal, see an art film, and think for a minute that you're in Center City. Except you didn't get a parking ticket. You guessed it: www.majolicarestaurant.com

Thanks for the careful note-taking Percy! I'll take the blame for this near-tragedy, I'd known intellectually to keep a thumb on the cork as you pull the cage on a bubbly, but thought I'd have another millisecond or two... Thankfully the caroming cork made a lot of noise, but somehow avoided taking anyone's eye out. Delicious stuff, and not too much of it ended up on the floor... Glad you liked that one Percy, I thought it worked nicely with the squash. There is a surprising amount of decent Gewurtz coming from the finger lakes region of NY, but this is my favorite one. This was just right for this dish. Pity Evan owns all of the remaining known bottles of Monbazillac... I share Pedro's reluctance to always pair foie with a sweet white, but this particular preparation required it, I think, between the richness of the foie and the sweetness of the pineapple. That rose was almost neon red, and nicely dry. I liked it a lot with the chicken ravioli. And I agree, the Cakebread was very nice with the lobster. I feel bad that we didn't have another wine for the carrots... I can't stop drinking that Beaune, the light fruitiness lets it match with a lot of different things. And the Petit Syrah was indeed lovely with the pork belly, meshing nicely with the slight licorice scents of the sauce. Good call Joe, thanks! Shola was horrified when I suggested that we might open a bottle of Port with dessert, and of course he was right, that would have been WAY too heavy with those airy flavors. Thankfully we had a split of Loupiac that had been standing-by as a possible foie pairing, and it was just right, nicely floral and refreshing. Thanks to Robert and Barbara for bringing that, as well as that surprising Rose. All in all, I think we did amazingly well for not thinking TOO hard about it, but then we've had some good teachers (we were thinking of you Katie!) And it doesn't hurt to have a few options and check with Shola right before popping something... I join Percy in thanking everyone for their generosity with the wine, and again, the fine company.

philadining is a consumer extraordinaire. i'm thinking if i get rid of my car, i might could set aside the money i save to start a studiokitchen budget line. that way i figure i could go probably a third to half as often as you guys do. ← Hey, I've been really enjoying all these trips to Studio Kitchen, and I'd go again tomorrow, but even I'll admit that it's bordering on excessive to go three times in a month. It starts warping one's perspective: hmmm, this turkey sandwich is pretty good, but a little cardamom foam could really take it to another level...But hey, circumstances conspired to make it happen, I'm not one to fight fate! And in my defense, I'm not even CLOSE to the record-holder for most, or even most-frequent visits. And jas, selling the car and putting the proceeds in a dinner fund sounds like a pretty reasonable plan... see you there!

Studio Kitchen, August 30, 2005: Kabocha Soup Pickled Spaghetti Squash Black Truffle and Goat Cheese Gnocchi On a menu, this looks very hearty and wintery, but the vibrant color corresponded with a bright flavor that would make it appropriate for any time of the year. The smooth Kabocha squash played nicely off the light tang of the tangle of spaghetti squash, and the rich earthiness of the gnocchi, just hinting at cheese and truffle. I've had a lot of good soups at Studio Kitchen, but this is certainly one of my favorites. Foie Gras Poele Pineapple Poached in Pineau Des Charentes Endive Marmalade Loupiac Emulsion Orange Flower Water The Pineapple threatened to overshadow the foie, it had such a big, intense flavor. But that natural acidity, sweetened by the wine-poaching was a perfect platform for the buttery foie gras. The Endive marmalade was an excellent accompaniment, with a sweet caramelized edge to the sometimes bitter leaves. Lobster Roasted With "Paella Spices" Chicken "Salmorejo" Ravioli Sous Vide Carrot Confit Cardamon Emulsion Esplette Oil The tender lobster mostly tasted like lobster, which is a good thing in my book, intensified by roasting, with just a hint of the saffron and peppery spicing you might find in a paella. I liked the Chicken ravioli almost as much, the vinegary, Spanish tilt of the flavors echoing the lobster. The carrots had quite concentrated flavors, yet were still firm after their sous vide bath. Kurobuta Tasting #2: Pork and Beans Three Ways Slow Roasted Belly, Haricots Tarbais, Licorice Jus Pistachio and Sharp Provolone Crepinette Salicornia, Hibiscus-Prune Puree Lardons with Escargot and Puy Lentilles, Lentil-Cumin Emulsion As has been commented on in this topic previously, in the midst of all these luxurious ingredients and delicate preparations, it seems odd to rhapsodize over beans, but Shola seems to have some magical touch with them. The large, pillowy tarbais beans might have floated off the plate if they hadn't been stuck under the daunting mass of pork belly. The green lentils were creamy, yet intact, reveling in the bacony aromas of the lardons. That little pot of lentils, with batons of bacon and a few squiggly escargots might have stolen the show from the other two elements of this dish, although it was a close race. The Pork Belly was rolled and poached slowly, then roasted, resulting in crisp crust surrounding a soft, disintegrating interior that melted away in the mouth. Of course the high fat content might have something to do with that too... but the cloudy backdrop of the beans, and the sweet, intense jus mitigated the richness. The sharp bite of aged provelone made the ground pork in the crepinette stand out in sharp relief against the mellower components, the crunchy nuts adding textural and flavor depth. The three worked well together, as much as I liked each element, I don't think I would have traded-away any of them for more of one. Confit of Berries Cara Cara Orange, Meyer Lemon, White Chocolate and Chaource, In Two textures Crispy Rice The pork dish was quite large, to the point that some of us were looking skeptically at the large goblets being filled with what looked like a very heavy and rich dessert. But we really need to learn to trust Shola, and what arrived was precisely what we needed. Fresh berries had intensified themselves in a brief marination, and the light, refreshing, flavors of citrus, chocolate and cheese drifted in on a bit of culinary alchemy. The identical ingredients were presented in an airy foam, AND in an intense ice cream, so that as one spooned-through the dish, descending into the core of it, the same flavors sustained, but became colder, and stronger, then lighter and more ethereal again... That contrast was magic enough, but toss the berries into the mix, which meshed so nicely with the lemony-cheesy-creamy thing, it was yet another dessert that was hard to stop giggling over. (Or maybe it's the nitrous in the foamer....) Shola proposed that maybe he should just open a shop selling these desserts, and you know, I could go for that... Of course he won't do it, but if there were one thing that could derail my Capogiro addiction, that could be it. So again, another thoroughly satisfying, interesting, exciting meal at Studio Kitchen. I liked how this menu was relatively straightforward, nothing overtly flashy or unusual, but solidly good, and with those signature elegant twists that are always in Shola's preparations. As the seasons change, I'm eager to see how things evolve. I might need to start a telethon to raise funds, but I'll find a way.... And as always, the people at the table have a huge effect on the enjoyability of the evening, so big thanks to the dining companions that helped make it even more special. Percy, Evan, Chuck, as always, a pleasure, and to the first-timers, we'll see you back there, we have no doubt! And thanks to Shola for delighting us yet again. We actually did pretty well with wine, without stressing-out too much about it, more about that after the report of our wine scribe!

Maria Gallagher gives Majolica a very favorable write-up in the September Philadelphia Magazine (review not on-line) and Craig LaBan gives them Three Bells in the Inky. Odd that they sent a burnt piece of Salmon out for both photographers.... (edited to correct: burnt salmon for one, burnt foie gras for the other...) So yes, all the reviewers are still traveling in packs! Actually, given the very different production schedules of a magazine and a newspaper, this is an odd coincidence... Both Percy and I have had a few very nice meals here too, (reports soon.) Sadly, we'll probably never be able to get a reservation again, after those two good reviews... it's not that big of a place!

Yeah, really, Eastlake, huge thanks! We need to get a group outing organized soon... Keep an eye on ISO!

I wanted to ask Bill about a side comment he made in another topic, but in the interest of keeping the discussion straight, here's a Ralph's topic of its own. (didn't find a previous thread.) Hey Bill, can you quickly tell us what you had (and disliked). I have usually been disappointed in their dishes that had delusions of grandeur, but always liked the simple, straightforward homey stuff like simple pastas, especially the gnocchi, ravioli, lasagna etc. Basic dishes, but ones that that I might not make at home. I'm harboring some nostalgia for this place, and am therefore unable to be really objective about it, because it was the first if the classic South Philly joints I went to when I first came to town. But I know some natives that seem to feel the same way. And I (almost) always leave happy. When I don't, it's because I forgot my rule and ordered some fancy, expensive special, instead of gnocchi with a meatball. What are others' experiences? I still find this a pretty reliable place to take people for a real South Philly experience. Not necessarily the greatest food in town, but good in its way.

Ha! My brain went exactly the same way, and I was pretty perplexed for a while. But I think i got it, chardonnay, don't marinate the cukes with chardonnay! Right?

Oh no, we didn't actually BUY any wine, we were shopping for ideas. If we HAD bought any wine, it would have only been to accompany our lovely taco lunch, IN New Jersey.

If you've scanned through this thread, you know that pretty much all the meals at Studio Kitchen are pretty extraordinary. But this most recent one was, to use Shola's words, "off-the-hook". There were several elements in play. This was a make-up dinner for one that had been postponed due to an emergency, so Shola cranked up the intensity a bit to make up for the inconvenience. But it might have had more to do with the infectious exuberance of the classic Miles Davis Quintet recordings that Shola was listening to as the menu came together. Whatever the reason, this was really rather extreme, and it's really quite amazing that he was able to pull off the sheer number of separate dishes, all, of course, at such a high level. We had anticipated a soup to start, and ended up with four, deconstructed into solid and liquid components. First Course:"Soup to Nuts" Tomato, Boquerone, Horseradish, Picual Olive Oil Kabocha, Miso, Fugi Apple, Lemon, Mosto Oil, Curry, Maple Syrup Miso, Shiso, Tahini, Black Truffle, Takikomi Wakame, Peas Marcona Almond, Rabbit, Onion, Jerez, Bay Leaf It was really hard to choose a favorite, or even to focus-in on an overall theme, but these were all interesting and surprising and delicious. The first soup was a perfect summer tonic: a sweet, cold soup made from perfectly ripe yellow tomatoes, joined with a tangy marinated anchovy. The next soup was more of an autumn statement, a smooth, warm squash soup accompanying a slowly-cooked apple, reduced to the essence of fruit and sweetness. The third soup was a miracle of multi-culti diplomacy, a few shots of this and maybe we'll have world peace. Who'd have guessed that Miso, Tahini and seaweed would play well together? But they do, and the taste and texture of this soup was a real revelation, and its earthiness matched perfectly with the fresh sweet peas dressed simply in a hint of truffle oil. The almond soup was warm and creamy, but I almost forgot about it in the shadow of the tender rabbit, which reminded us of ideal barbecue. This of course led to some fantasies about Shola starting a lunch business selling pulled-rabbit sandwiches, but I don't think we convinced him. As you can see in the photos, these soups were presented on custom-made boards with indentations to hold vessels carrying the various components. Between the visual appeal, the taste and textural implications of deconstructing the elements, and the linear progression of the flavors from left to right, this was a dizzyingly impressive dish, successful in parts, and as a whole. Second Course: Foie Gras Two Ways Glazed Unagi Chanterelles and Sea Beans Porcini – Shoyu –Mirin A piece of seared foie gras sat atop a ravioli filled with yet more foie, which sat atop a large piece of glazed eel, which was balanced on tart white asparagus and wild mushrooms. The sweet and salty of japanese wine and soy joined the party, offsetting the richness of the main ingredients. I don't think I've ever had Unagi and Foie on the same plate, but out the rich fattiness of each complemented one another rather than conflicting. The woodsy mushrooms, sour asparagus and salty beans brought a balance to the sweetness. Third Course: Smoked Waygu Steak "Tataki" Tosazu, Jalepeno, Lemon Balm, Sorrel, Spring Onion. In contrast to the rest of the menu, this was relatively straightforward: beautiful Waygu Hanger Steak, lightly smoked before being quickly seared, then chopped. The dark smokiness of the beef was brightened by the vinegary tosazu sauce and lemony herbs. Sure, it's a simple beef salad, but one that succeeds by presenting excellent ingredients in perfect balance. Fourth Course: Pork Quintet Loin "Weiner Schnitzel", Cranberry Orange Relish Cured Pork Belly, White Bean Fondue Pork Galette with Pistachio and Truffle Braised Tenderloin, Prunes, Essence of Bergamot Milk Poached "Involtini",Tuscan Ham, Sage OK, this was really out-of-hand.... but Shola was listening to the Miles Davis Quintet, there had to be 5 parts.... There's never anything wrong with deep-fried pork, but to my palate, the nice crisp cutlet of pork loin was the least interesting of the five. The cranberry relish was a nice accent, but overall the pork loin was just a little plain compared to the other expressions. Hey, I ate it, and really enjoyed it, but the other preparations were a bit more stellar. The pork belly had been cooked slow and low, poaching in its own juices sous-vide style, which resulted in a falling-apart tender block of meat, crisped on all sides at the last minute. The slow cooking had rendered-out much of the fat, but it's still pork belly, it's a fatty cut. That's why it's so delicious! The Galette was like a bulk sausage, the minced meat mixed with crunchy pistacho. It was tasty on its own, but even better dragged through the jus flowing across the plate from the tenderloin. Pork tenderloin isn't inherently all that flavorful, but the darkly sweet prunes and bright bergamot made the meat quite enjoyable. But the star might have been the involtini, a roll of tender, poached pork, with the strong flavors of sage and salty ham intwined in the spiral. This was a ton of food, and most of us were feeling pretty stuffed by now, but we managed to somehow find space for a truly unusual cheese course. Cheese Course Point Reyes, Cabrales, Cashel, St. Augur,Stilton. Five tastes of very different Bleus were enhanced by the perfume of lavender drifting up from underneath. The creamy Point Reyes from northern California, the gloriously stinky Cabrales from Spain, the delicate Cashel from Ireland, the sweet St Augur from France, and the classic musty Stilton from England were each drizzled with a scant drop of lavender honey. Some slices of raisin challa were passed, but we mostly just reveled in the surprisingly diverse tastes of this one corner of the cheese world. The Cashel was a hit at our end of the table, but all were tasty in their own ways. Dessert what?!?!? after all this, how are we supposed to eat dessert?!?! Coffee Scented Chocolate Sorbet, Cocoa Nibs, Butterscotch and Hazelnut Bavarois, Salty Crispy Rice,"LeBlanc" Hazelnut Oil. Ahh, it's all air, it's mostly foam, Shola says.... Which is true in a way, it was much lighter than it looked, and was indeed a good refreshing way to end the meal. The smooth layers of flavors, culminating in the intense chocolate sorbet at the bottom of the pile, were contrasted with the crispy rice, this time tossed with salt for additional counterpoint. This was an unusually large and involved meal, and all of us, maybe even including Shola, were a little amazed that he was able to pull of of this off. I certainly think he managed to make it up to Evan for delaying an important celebration. We had a rather surprising number of wines, despite earlier joking, we really weren't trying to break any records, although we might have.... I think this really says it all, doesn't it? I'll let Katie share her long list of the exact details, there's no way I can remember them all. We had a few really nice pairings of wine and food, a few near misses, and I think universally interesting and enjoyable wines. Thanks to everyone for generously opening their cellars and working so hard at these always challenging matches. (For those of you keeping score, that was 15 bottles of wine, although two of those were 375s, so I guess we'd call that 14.) Major thanks to Evan for hosting and organizing this event, and to Shola for out-doing himself yet again. It was really great to meet some new folks, as well as catch up with old and new friends, I look forward to dining with you all again sometime soon! And this latest experience only reaffirms the title and subtitle Holly gave this topic several years ago: Studio Kitchen, No Place Like It!

It's almost embarrassing to admit that we ate anything at all for lunch, given what we did later in the evening, but we three eGulleteers needed sustenance after an exhausting afternoon of wine shopping.... Finding ourselves close to Camden, we developed an uncontrollable urge for tacos, so we made our way to Mexico Lindo. The savvy sommeliere, employing her finest phone diplomacy, got detailed directions to 3523 Federal St, which ended up leading us a bit east of the center of Camden. We passed a fair number of other intriguing-looking places, but were focussed on Mexico Lindo. And good thing too, we got a quick, inexpensive, and really tasty lunch. Pedro had the right idea on this warm day, ordering something that turned out to be an incredibly refreshing watermelon flavored Agua Fresca It was a good accompaniment for the complimentary homemade chips and 2 salsas. We really did just want a light snack, so we each got one taco, all of which were really quite generously stuffed. Pedro took a chance on the Cabeza, and liked it, although we still aren't sure what parts of the head were used, or even the head of what....Katie gave thumbs up on her "Al Pastor" although it didn't seem to be the spit-roasted pork with pineapple, just nicely seasoned meat. I quite enjoyed the "enchiladas" taco which was filled with pork in a medium-spicy sauce. But, given that we are who we are, we couldn't really leave well enough alone and indulged in the queso fundido con chorizo. This was a really delicious version of this: gooey, crusty, spicy, oily... All of this was about $16 before a tip. Bueno.

While Perrier's cooking at LBF is not as trendy or showy as some of the newer guys, let's not pretend that there's not a "scene" there. The lavish decor, the formally-dressed waiters, the silver plate domes, the groaning dessert cart: these are every big as much theatrical elements as color-changing booths or Buddhas or silly cocktails. A different style, for sure, and meant to appeal to a different crowd, but I'm just cynical enough to think that as many people go to Le Bec Fin for the experience of being there as do to revel in Perrier's food. And the show is a big component of why it costs so much to eat there. That's neither good nor bad, just one factor in attracting and impressing diners, a factor that Starr has mastered brilliantly for a younger demographic. I think we should be careful to not presume that, because the "scenesters" are older, richer and more conservatively dressed, they are concerned only with the skills of the kitchen, and somehow more able to discern culinary quality. And I don't think one can blame Starr if diners are so easily lured away by shiny baubles. If it weren't for that Darn rock and roll, people would still be listening to classical music, like they're supposed to!! I know the larger point was about the trendiness of the actual food on the plate. Of course flash for flash's sake grows tiresome quickly. I have great respect for those striving for perfection in a classic style, but I'm reluctant to declare that pursuit more valid than experimentation and innovation. There's transcendent music, and self-indulgent excess, emanating from the Kimmel Center, Tritone, the Slought Foundation and the Khyber most nights. And I wouldn't say that any of them is inherently superior. A listener might prefer one over another, one performer might display more technical skill than another, but the energy and enjoyment and aesthetic thrill won't be more "real" at one place than the other. Which is a long way of saying that I think George Perrier is a culinary treasure, and I'm glad he's still cooking here in Philly. But I'm glad the other spots are here too.

Feeling a little retro, I had the bitter chocolate and the bananas foster. Both were outstanding, Brought a couple of friends from out of town. I should have prepared them better... they seemed kind-of stunned and disoriented, but were smiling and seemed to be trying to articulate happiness. I guess it was kind of cruel to give them a dish of that and then send them out of state.

Yeah, the younger waitress there has pretty spotty English, but I've found everyone to be very friendly and accommodating. The other one, who seems to act more like a manager, speaks very well and has come to the rescue a few times. Even if not, with a little flailing and pointing I've usually been able to get what I wanted! Glad you liked it Holly, and I agree, those dumplings are terrific. One of these days I'll get to the Yue Kee truck to try their version, as Capaneus recommends. Percyn knows a place in Princeton that makes what he considers the ultimate version, and I still haven't had any that compare to the rendition at Grand Sichuan Int'l in NY, but the ones at Szechuan Tasty House are still fine by me!

Indeed, gaf, welcome to the Philly board, and thanks for that very engaging report. I think you make some very interesting points about the classic and modern styles. I might argue that trusting the ingredients, and cooking with elegant simplicity are not the only paths to culinary heights, but you're right, the flashy, busy plates that are so popular with today's chefs can be tiresome. I'm really glad to know you found Le Bec so satisfying, there's been some whispering that the cooking had become a bit stodgy. Your descriptions are so vivid, I feel like I was there with you, and I think I liked it too! But I feel the need to rise, again, to the defense of the humble cheese skate.... Of course I'd never insist that you MUST like it, it's a perfectly valid response to say it didn't work (you wouldn't be alone.) But I think people take it a bit too seriously. It's made with a bit of a smile and a wink, and sure, the skate gets overwhelmed by the other elements, but, you know, it's "the roll" which always gets overwhelmed. I found the one I ordered to be delicious, not just kind of clever. But then, I get the whiz at Pats! Please do post about your other meals, I'm sure we'd all be interested in your other experiences here. And be careful, if you get stuck here too long you might start liking the whiz...

One of the problems with the STH is that there's not THAT many full-on Szechuan dishes on their menu, so by the time you sidestep the more pedestrian offerings and pick out the ones that look or sound good, and ask advice from the server, it's probably not too hard to end up eating the same stuff as anybody else doing the same thing. That being said, I am harboring some suspicions that Charlie might in fact BE Lauren McCutcheon. I mean, have you ever seen the two of them together? Can she play the accordion? Has she ever marched up Broad Street in feathers? Don't let that mustache fool you! It would explain why so many of our dishes were in the review.... let's forget about copy deadlines for a minute, we've got a good conspiracy theory going here, we don't need facts cluttering up the place!!!

Wow, if this turns out to be the case, it's pretty mind-blowing (capaneus, I'm sure your source is trustworthy, but until we see an official announcement, let's treat it as less-than-definite...) The restaurant world is certainly an unpredictable and volatile one, but if any new place could be called a success, it would be Marigold: excellent reviews from, like, everyone; packed dining rooms; and most importantly, thumbs-up from the loonies here on this board. One assumes that such accolades would mean everything was going great, but I guess those measures of accomplishment have no correlation with the actual experience behind the scenes. The vibe that appeared like harmony while we reveled in what was on the plate could actually be masking conflict, disenchantment, boredom, exhaustion, or a million other perils. In any case, I hope Marigold can continue at a similar level. It was one of the better additions to our dining scene in a few years, and I hope it remains so in some configuration or another.

Following a couple more visits, I feel the need to update: Szechuan Tasty House: Dumplings in a spicy sauce Cold Chicken in a Spicy Sauce Golden Coins (pork-stuffed deep-fried Eggplant) Twice Cooked Pork Chicken in a Spicy Tangy Sauce Braised Beef in Szechuan Style There are plenty more good things, but those are my current don't-miss dishes. I'd certainly add the Fu Qi Fei Pan if you have any inclination at all toward tripe and kidney, and maybe even if you don't... some pics here.