zeitoun
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Posts posted by zeitoun
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hmmmm
never tried it that way..Here is how i've cooked my pork belly:
I buy it fresh, skin on and remove the rib bones, I begin by seasoning generously.
Then, sear it on high heat for 5 to 6 mn on skin side only. Deglaze the pan with a mirepoix and cook them until they begin to brown. Deglaze again with brown veal stock making sure i scrape all the good stuff at the bottom of the pan well, let it cook down until it evaporates. Add the rest of the veal stock, add the pork and bouquet garni (stock has to come to cover). I put a parchment lid on top and stick it in the oven at 325F and let it braise until it is fork tender (maybe 3-4 hours it depends).
Just before i am ready to serve, Remove the pork from its cooking liquid, pull off the skin, cut it in serving pieces and score the fat. I strain the cooking liquid, reduce it a little while i stick the pork under the broiler for 3-4 mn until the top begins to crisp. I like to serve this with roasted vegetables, lentils or barley.
I don't think you fluked anything, hey, if it was good...You should try different methods and compare. See which one you like the best..
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How likely am I to get in there as a singleton on a spur of the moment (i.e. without reservations) around 8:30-9:30? What about eating at the bar?
I must have gone to Bacchus close to 6 or 7 times since it opened a few years ago, always without a reservation. I haven't been in the past year or so but I would think that on a week day you won't have any difficulties. I am pretty sure you can also eat at the bar.
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I was also at the Bar Room for lunch on saturday.
I was fond of Kreuther at Atelier, I think I am going to be even more fond of him at the Modern. If food at the Bar Room was meant to give you an apercu of what the main dining room menu has to offer, then I am impatiently waiting to go...
We were three and each ordered one appetizer, one entrée and shared two desserts. Here is what we had:
- Sorrel soup with roasted foie gras and barley. I only had a taste of this but that one bite made it a match made in heaven for me. I was dubious about the sorrel and foie gras combo but it worked beautifully.
- Charred Octopus with warm potato. The octopus had a wonderful texture and flavor. The sauce consisted of a mixture of finely chopped hard boiled egg whites and egg yolks, tomatoes, shallots, parsley and maybe a thing or two I may have missed, all in olive oil. It was sensational.
- Smoked eel “rillettes” with turnips and horseradish sauce. The eel came on the plate formed into three quenelles resting on a tiny strip of (steamed?) eel fillet. The eel quenelles had the appearance of “rillette” but certainly not the consistency (there was nothing like pure fat in there). I am not too sure what held the shredded eel meat together but I tasted some heavy cream and minced shallots. In addition to the smoky flavor, I also noticed nice hints of sourness in the quenelles. The turnips were served finely julienned and blanched. The sauce was slightly peppery from the horseradish. I thought all the flavors worked in perfect harmony.
- Calves liver quenelles with spaghetti squash and beet sauce. I was afraid of a strong dry “livery” taste with the ground liver but it was mild and moist enough for me to enjoy it. The squash was shredded more than spaghetti like, and the sauce consisted of a simple beet juice reduction. I really enjoyed the flavors in this dish.
- Grilled quail with chive spaetzle and lentils. The quail was a little too cooked for me but still had a great taste. The lentils and the spaetzle were amazing. The spaetzle crunched in my mouth almost like pop corn.
- Diver scallops with poppy seeds, arugula and parmesan. This was the dish I enjoyed the least. The diver scallops were crusted on the top with poppy seeds. The arugula came as a sauce along with the parmesan. Although everything was cooked to perfection, I found this a little dull flavor wise compared to all the other dishes.
- Ricotta Crepe Flan with orange tuile and fromage blanc sorbet. This was fabulous. This dessert consisted of a ricotta based custard (crusted on top) mounted on a thin piece of crepe. The flan had bits of orange zest in it that complimented the custard superbly. The light tartness of the fromage blanc sorbet was excellent with this.
- Ten-Hour Cooked Apples with quince gelee and rasberry sorbet. This was a little disappointing. The apples were thinly sliced and slowly baked in the oven at a very low temperature. I liked the consistency of the apples but thought they lacked in taste and sweetness. Same goes for the quince gelee which was not quite “quincy”.
I can’t wait to go back, for the three of us with wine and tip, I think we paid $150. A bargain considering what we had. As mentioned many times upthread, the Bar Room certainly presents more than just casual cuisine, give me the same food with a $100 tab per head and I will be happy. Kreuther is really living up to his reputation. My one complaint though was that I wasn’t too crazy about the service, it was flagrant to me and my guests that our waitress did not seem to be very familiar with the menu. I was also a little turned off by the wait staff attire which in my opinion would have been more appropriate at “Republic” on Union Square than a place like the Modern.
Still, I am looking forward to my next visit.
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zeitoun that sounds fabulous. I'm going to have to try that one. What kind of mustard?
We use regular Dijon mustard. I particularly like the french "Maille" brand but I am sure you can use whatever else pleases you. Really good stuff...
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I love roasted Brussel sprouts!
My wife taught me how to make these by mixing them in mustard, salt, pepper and a little canola oil before roasting. The "roasted mustard" aroma goes so well with brussel sprouts! Amazing..
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Though not classically French, 360 in Red Hook, with their $20-$25 three-course prix fixe dinners, is a great value.
Just a quick note about 360: I met Bill, the current chef, about two years ago after he finished a one year stint at Wallse, he is a great guy, very talented and has an incredible passion for what he does. I have been to 360 a few times since he took over the kitchen in December, the menu he offers for the price is exceptional. Also, the owner was sommelier in NY for many years at a high end establishment. He has an incredible list of French wine bottles in the $20 to $30 range. His wines come from small growers only and close to half of what he has is not available anywhere else in NY.
Great place, thanks for mentionning it.
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I've always thought highly of Bacchus on Atlantic Ave and Bond St. in Brooklyn. The food they prepare is not pretentious and I think does certainly fit in the good down home french category. They serve French classics such as Lapin a la Moutarde, Coq au Vin, Boeuf Bourguignon, Daube Provencale, Steak frites, Steak Tartare, Assiette de Charcuteries, etc... at a more than reasonable fare. Their wine list features a good selection of french wines at affordable prices from small growers. The owner always makes you feel welcome. It may not be excellent, but for good, solid and inexpensive, I highly recommend it.
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I have never seen or heard of it, is it like Lebanese Halawah / Halva? Am I completely off the mark?
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I will be in the Ludlow area next week for a much anticipated week end of skiing. Has anyone been to Harry's Cafe in Mount Holly? It was recommended to my wife and I by regulars of the place. I have a reservation for Sat. What style of food do they prepare? Is it worth the visit?
Thanks...
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Went to the new Aquavit location for a quick lunch on Wednesday. We sat in the café section. I found the design of the overall space much less appealing than at the old location. I thought it did not quite have the charm and warmth of the old café and main dining room. The more “contemporary” look just didn’t quite do it for me.
As far as food goes, we ordered to start the smorgasbord and the herring sampler, which were both excellent as always. I had a tomato soup with chanterelle and bacon. What a disaster... with each spoonful I kept on wondering how this dish (and why I had ordered it) even made to the menu. It was served creamless, warm and somewhat thicker than what I had expected (close to a liquefied tomato puree). The seasoning was completely off to my palate; sugar, vinegar and salt were way too pronounced. So yes, add this to thick warm tomato puree and what you have essentially is warm ketchup. Chanterelle was overcooked beyond recognition and bacon nonexistent. It was part of the prix fixe menu, but come on...prix fixe should not mean cheap junk. The Swedish meatballs, which I normally like, were also quite uninspiring. The meatballs were dry and overcooked and the mashed potatoes served with it were a little too “stiff” and starchy. A little more butter or cream in there wouldn’t have hurt. As an entrée, I had a hot smoked salmon with salsify puree and apple horseradish broth. I enjoyed the flavors of this dish the most. The salmon, which was probably poached in milk or something, had a nice and delicate texture, as always. One complaint I had though was with the size of the salmon. I think after my 25th bite, I really got tired of eating it, I was actually quite nauseated towards the end. I just couldn’t finish my piece. The combination of salsify, with a light apple and horseradish broth worked wonderfully though. We also had the Gravlax sandwich, another Aquavit classic, served with avocados and espresso mustard, again a great combo with the dill and somewhat sweet flavors of the Gravlax. Desserts were good but not great.
I am still hoping one day to see something radically different on the menu. The menu doesn't seem to have changed since my first visit there a couple of years ago. I think I’ll need to stay away from Aquavit for quite a while.
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Labne sandwich: Labne, green olives, sprinkle of zaatar, olive oil in a rolled pita.
ANY piece of cheese on pain de mie stuck in a toaster.
ANY piece of cheese period.
Leftover white rice with grated parmiggiano and olive oil.
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Allegretti certainly has an impressive bio. I really didn't think much of Atelier without Kreuther, I'll have to reconsider. Thanks for sharing the article.
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Zeitoun-
What type of sauce are you planning if any at all? Wine, sherry, mushrooms, chicken liver (foie gras if you're feeling lik splurging), herbs? Preparation method breaded and pan fried, pan seared with butter, braised...?
I actually served this with a simple mushroom scented veal stock reduction. As a side i just added braised endives (idea is from Keller's cookbook).
For the actual cooking, i (again) used one of Keller's methods: soak in water, quick poaching before removing the membrane, press it, quick poaching again in light stock and vermouth, let sit in cooled cooking liquid for 6-7 hours, pan sear in butter and canoila oil with lard.
I think i'll bread it next time, skip the second poaching, and go directly to pan searing. I'll also try it with some greens as a salad. I'm open to all kinds of ideas..
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I am also going through an offal stage.
I grew up detesting offal. I gradually started liking it while eating at restaurants over the years. So, after many years of putting it off, I decided to begin trying it at home this past month.
To overcome all the fears I had, I picked as my first offal cooking project, the one item I was most apprehencious about: veal tongues.
A fresh veal tongue is quite a nasty thing to look at and it is HUGE. It requires time and labor to prepare: soaking, long braising, peeling, trimming, curing (in pickling solution), slicing and eating..
I was amazed by the result, this experience alone really taught me the beauty of offal cooking: with a seemingly nasty piece of meat, one can make wonders with patience and care.
Now, I can't stop!!!!
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I also have an obsessive craving for good fromage blanc (which i just eat with sugar). You're right, Vermont Cheese Co. has absolutely nothing to do with the real thing. I have looked close to everywhere for it, to no avail.
Bond Girl - I wasn't aware of the green market stand (which one by the way, is it the guy that yells all day that he sells heaven? cato? ronnybrook?)
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My own experience has been that restaurants get all the perfectly round-shaped sweetbreads from milk-fed calves which hardly ever need soaking. Ordinary butcher shops sell all sort of straggly parts which need soaking, pressing, and careful cleaning.
You are raising a good point. It seems that the sweetbreads one might have at high end restaurants is the top rounded - and better - portion of the gland (the nut) which as you said has little membrane and is more perfectly shaped. The sweetbreads i got was clearly not that. I got the cheaper stuff (btw I still can't get over the fact that it cost me only $2.50 for about a pound).
Although soaking and removing membrane seem important, it seems that after reading everyone's comments, the less i manipulate them, the better off i'll be.
Elie - Babbo cookbook was not on top of my list (i have to buy all of Paula's books first
) but i think I'll make an exception on this one. Your dish looks fantastic. -
just got my book in the mail yesterday and not up to the gnocci yet...but i skipped to check it out aftern hearing so much about them...making them on fir...is there any change (negative) after they have been frozenMeanwhile, I am tackling the herb gnocchi next!I'm looking forward to getting your impressions on these. Since I made them the first time, I now always keep a batch in the freezer for those lazy nights, i've come up with about a dozen ways to serve these. It was like rediscovering pasta all over again!!
No change at all after they are frozen. As recommended by TK, I just throw them in the pan frozen with canola oil and butter with whatever else I choose to accompany my gnocchi. They brown perfectly and retain their lovely texture. This goes for both the herb (pate a choux base) gnocchi of the Bouchon book and the potato gnocchi of the FL cookbook.
The other day i used my frozen batch of herb gnocchi and mixed them with the leftover of an oxtail braise i had made two days earlier. Pretty cool stuff, I highly recommend it...
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I live right across the street from Brawta and ahve to admit that the patties aren't all that good. I've had one in six years, where I used to go to Christie's once or twice a week. I've not tried the one on Livingston, though I will certainly be doing that once the rain stops.
I would agree with you on Brawta, I'm not too crazy about their patties either. I really swear by this place on Livingston, i like the way they make their patties with a really moist interior and crispy exterior. They seem to run out of the fish patties very quickly and they are in my opinion even better than beef.
I was not familiar with Christie's, i'll definitely give it a try...
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Over the years I tried several places in the Bronx (In the Gunhill and Boston Rd. areas) and found the ultimate patties downtown Brooklyn, just a few blocks from where i used to live.
The name of the place escapes me, it is located on Livingtson Street between Nevins St. and Bond St. on the south side of the sidewalk. It is take out only. They normally have beef, chicken, fish, vegetarian and calaloo patties that are all absolutely delicious. I regularly feasted on these for almost five years.
They also sell "Ting", one of my favorite sodas.
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Thanks for your responses so far, it is very helpful.
Given what has been said so far, which step or aspect of its preparation you think is most critical in maintaining (or giving?) the delicate and moist texture that good sweetbreads should have?
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Personally, if I was considering this, I'd want to hear from someone that it comes out alright using dried chestnuts b/4 I invested the time or $... It is a pain to peel fresh chestnuts and the season is ending, ended?... I'd wait for fresh chestnuts next fall.
I thought for a long time that mont blanc would only work with fresh chestnuts. Two weeks ago, my wife and I (craving for mont blanc) went on a fruitless hunt for fresh chestnuts, we came up with the crazy idea of attempting the recipe with chesnuts in a jar. To our surprise, it came out quite alright..
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What are the general guidelines for preparing, handling and cooking veal sweetbreads?
I cooked them for the first time last week end, and I was frankly not pleased with the result. As I was going through the preparation and cooking process, here are some of the more important aspects of it that I seemed to have problems with:
- Removing the membrane, how much of it?
The cookbooks I have recommend after soaking in cold water that the outer skin and other membrane be removed from the sweetbreads. In doing so, I found that as I was removing the outer layer, there was also a fair amount of connective membrane running though the entire piece. I realized that the more membrane I was removing, the more I was breaking the single piece apart. I thought leaving whatever I could not remove (by fear of undermining the integrity of my whole piece) would not be an issue after cooking. It turned out that whatever membrane I had left out had a slightly unpleasant "chewy" quality.
- Is flattening the sweetbreads before cooking an important step? Why?
- Does it have to be quickly poached before it is seared? Again, this was instructed in several recipes I read. Aside from poaching alone in a flavored liquid such as stock, I have seen recipes recommend that the sweetbreads be allowed to sit in a cool place for several hours in its own cooled poaching liquid. I personally found that quick poaching undermined the lovely texture of the sweetbreads more than it actually helped.
- Should pan searing be very brief over high heat to avoid overcooking?
Thanking you in advance for your input
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You should be able to find whole jarred chestnuts that are not sweetened. You should avoid the already pureed or sweetened varieties. This might be more appropriate for what you intend to do. That is what I use for soups, purees etc... when i get really lazy. As for fresh chesnuts, besides the fact that they are probably hard to come by at this time of the year, you wouldn't want to spend hours roasting, peeling and poaching those little guys. Whole unsweatened chestnuts in a jar will work just fine.
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Although the name is French, Mont Blanc is not a very common dessert in France. In all my visits at local "patisseries" in Paris, I have personaly never seen it. It is very common in Japan though and is sold there in French pastry shops. My first encounter with it was in a Japanese pastry shop here in NY.
As for chestnuts, it is somewhat fairly easy to come by here in NY either fresh or in jars. Most of the ones i've seen are shipped from Italy. The season for chestnuts is ending, you'll have a hard time finding them now.
Eggs, how I love thee
in Cooking
Posted
Eggs in general are wonderful, "good eggs" like the ones I've had in france are magical. "Good eggs", with a rich, creamy, almost dark orange yolk are so good i just eat them raw (usually over japanese white rice). I have a hard time finding eggs of quality here in the US, however there is a (expensive so i don't buy often) brand that i buy in japanese supermarkets that is of exceptional quality.
I also like the taste of "spiced eggs" such as sunny side up with loads of sumac or in a shakshouka with tomatoes, peppers and merguez. For a scrambled version i make it how it was taught to me in france, cooked over a bain marie with butter and creme fraiche for a rich and creamy result.