Peter Green
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Posts posted by Peter Green
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In the Netherlands, it´s pretty much custom to show any piece or interview to the people it´s covering. And yes, this often turns into a negotiation process about what to delete and what to include. Not all press/media systems in all countries are equal
I don't think this is altogether a bad thing in the wild, wild world of on-line writing. You do have a question of integrity. As pointed out above, you have to be able to stand up for what you believe in. But I also think it's fair in most cases to have a fact check.
Note that I'm talking about the unpaid free for all of blogging. For the unwashed masses (I can fit that description), we don't have the resources (particularly time) to go back to a location and double check on ingredients, dates, names, and more material that does matter. The notes you took are often all you'll have. That and your pictures and your memory. Yes, we can check the internet, but it grows increasingly more unreliable because the same unwashed masses (me again) are posting material that may not be thoroughly vetted.
Heck, I often rely upon the kindness of strangers to set me straight, and in so doing educate me. It's one of the great benefits of eGullet, in my opinion.
So, if you are in a situation where what you write could impact someone seriously, is it that unreasonable to check the facts with them?
You can still hold to your opinions, or change them if a compelling argument can be made. But the correction of errors is a good thing.
And they may still be mad with you. But it will just be over your opinion, not the errors.
I guess I should go and wash my mass now.
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Hey! I was just happy to have gotten a beer at all.
My poor waitress was getting more and more distressed with every question I posed to her. I think asking for a San Mig from the PI would've been cause for melt-down.
Anyways, there's better beer coming up.
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Oh, I so miss strawberries!
For our part, tonight was a mish mash. Some Chinese, some Thai, some Korean.
There was what started as a Thai beef salad. A marinated Australian tenderloin grilled until pink, and then left to rest and cool.
The meat was then drizzled with a dressing of chilis, nampla, sugar, and lime
And served with fresh lettuce, mint, and coriander (on the plate with the meat). Oh, and long beans. You have to have long beans. We just wrapped the meat up in the lettuce with bits of everything and tossed it down.
But this meat, pink and cool as it was, got me thinking that I should look up my Vivalda notes on veal with tuna sauce.
The sprouts looked good today, so we did these up in a simple Korean manner: blanched, then finished with green onion, garlic, and sesame. Simple is often the best.
And then, because I needed my Sichuan pepper fix, we did Dong'an Ji - a braised chicken with lots of chili oil and a good handful of my crushed Sichuan peppercorns. I probably should've used less stock, or more cornstarch to set that sauce, but it went well with the rice (and my face is still numb from the peppercorns).
So, I can't very well put this in Thai, Korean, or Chinese home cooking, so obviously it belongs here in Dinner.
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March 31 – Darkness At Noon
There should be more smoke.
When I picture this place, there’s always smoke. It drifts lazily up from a half finished fag in Tony Leung’s left hand, his right holding a fountain pen over a jumble of papers on the green tablecloth before him. There’s a glass of whiskey. A glass of tea. Across the table sits Zhang Ziyi in a blue cheongsam, eyes fixed on her glass held firmly between her two hands.
Maybe I should take up cigarettes? Hey, we’re talking Zhang Ziyi here!
Days of Being Wild, In The Mood For Love, and 2046. A trio of films that sought to capture the lost memory of the Hong Kong of the ‘60s. Set aside the fact that much of the footage had to be filmed elsewhere (in Beijing and Macau and Shanghai). Together these three films are Wong Kar Wai’s masterpiece (in my opinion, at least). Beautiful texture and pace, and a feeling of being purposefully, willfully adrift. WKW made his reputation with these films; that is, that he could create beautiful set pieces with luscious filming, intense story lines, and a guarantee that they would run over budget and lose money.
You can’t have everything.
I can watch these over and over.
It’s said that they’d been filming in Shanghai for 2046 (seen as a room number during In The Mood For Love) but some of the pieces were shot in Hong Kong, and of those, Gold Finch was a primary piece.
(And they’re well aware of their claim to fame, with posters for 2046 and In The Mood For Love up on prominent display.)
It is the 1960’s again. Wood paneling, brown naughahyde, green baize table cloths….
Katsup in the bottle, and Worcestshire by its side.
And the paper placemat.
There are Christmas lights twinkling on the wall, and the bar is a small section of shelves near the entrance to the kitchen.
Gold Finch is about Hong Kong style Western food. They have a few Chinese items on the menu, but these are mainly noodles. In the spirit of the thing – thinking of sections 12/24 and 12/25 on the train (you’ll just have to watch the movie) and the cold drizzle outside – I ordered something warming.
A pork chop seemed the thing. And perhaps some escargot.
With your main you get the house soup, advertised as a borscht by my very-nervous waitress. (I seemed to make her uneasy).
A borscht. It hearkens back to the influx of White Russians in the 1920’s, fleeing from the last redoubts of chaos in Mongolia and Manchuria (and for a great little French anime on this, I would direct you to the 2002 Corto Maltese, from the famous comics by the Italian Hugo Pratt). I tend to link the Whites more with Shanghai, a late friend of mine reminiscing about vodka taken in glasses of ice, but there were plenty here as well.
One place I’d had no luck in locating was Queen’s Café on Hysan (just around the corner), which was Russian, and was the scene for the first of the three films - Days Of Being Wild. I was told later that the original restaurant was now gone, that they had relocated to new premises.
Borscht is a staple of Chinese diners. And it always looks much the same, be it here in Hong Kong, or in Bangkok, or in Vancouver. That is to say, it appears to have never seen a beet root at any time in its creation. Honestly, I would class this more as a hearty vegetable soup than as a borscht.
With the soup, of course, comes the staple of all restaurants serving both types of food (Western & Chinese) – toast.
The butter was a standard wrapped pat, lacking that imprimateur you find at such high class places as the Ovaltine back on Hastings in Vancouver. But to balance against that oversight, Gold Finch was also missing the crackheads you get at the O, so I’ll settle for no “butter” stamped in.
My snails arrived atop a plateful of creamy mashed potatoes, dressed with cheese and crisped onions. I winkled the escargot from their shell, and then tip the oil and garlic out to flavour the potatoes.
After some negotiation the waitress brings me the beer I’d thought I’d ordered. A San Miguel, and a sudden return to Earth after the Japanese beers I’d been drinking of late.
I missed Yebisu.
I’d had a number of options on the menu; roasted pigeon; pig knuckles; grilled fish; prawns and scallops; and, of course, steak. Also, the discerning diner can always choose to order extra spaghetti to accompany the meal.
But it was the pork chop that called to me. I share Steingarten’s reverence for pork, and of those many civilizations that have risen to greatness upon the rind of our small round friend.
I wasn’t disappointed. It came slathered with gravy, served on a sizzling platter that lifted all the garlic up and into my flared nostrils.
The pork chop was extremely moist and tender. This was a good thing. It’s too easy for a diner to serve up a pork chop that’s been dried out in the cooking.
As I cut my pork chop out from underneath its toppings, I thought on the films, of 2046’s dominant theme of opportunities lost, and then pointlessly pursued as they they recede into the past. Of Proust’s description of an old man washing himself in the same bathwater, over and over. When Tony Leung refuses to revisit the past with Zhang Zili, that sad smile on his face, it’s just about perfect.
I contemplated the dessert menu for a moment or two, but my straining waistline was telling me it was time to leave. I was carrying dim sum and diner about inside of me now, and it seemed best to depart while I could still fit through the doorway.
Tony Leung never seems to have this problem.
Next: Small beer
P.S. – In 2046 Hong Kong’s status as a Special Administrative Region will expire.
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Susan, we're going to sorely miss your dedication and hard work in getting folks to step up and carry their load. You've done an excellent job, which all of us have benefitted from.
However, I hope this will afford you more time for your family, and for posting in your own right! I want to hear more about the old days at the Erawan.
Peter
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March 31 – Set the stage
The rain continued. Never enough to quite justify the umbrella, but too much not to have it up.
Still, being a native of Vancouver, and having already abandoned any plans for video work, I shrugged and decided to take an extended stroll back to Causeway. Cold, damp, miserable weather, alongside bbq'd fowl just makes me feel nostalgic.
I wanted to see what was still there from days gone by.
Yes, there are still the little shrines to Kuan Yu and his “brothers”,
but with other culture’s trademarks showing up.
This gave me the opportunity to observe some of my favourites, such as the night blooming pitaya, also known as “thanh long”, “strawberry pear”, and a bunch of other names. I’d first been introduced to them as Dragon Fruit in Saigon years ago, so I’ll stay with that name.
And then there were these things, they remind me of a technicolour version of the pig bladders we ate in Chengdu, but they also look suspiciously like Strong Bad’s attempt to recreate the Blair Witch Project with Pom Pom dolls (hey, wait ‘till I start getting really obscure).
It’s been ages since I’ve been here in Hong Kong, and I was feeling nostalgic. The walk would be good for me. A chance to come to terms on a pedestrian level with the changes here in the Colony (it’s just a question of “whose” colony, really).
Much of what we see is the ongoing globalization that relentlessly molds the world’s cities into copies of each other. I’ve talked about the fractal nature of many American cities (Houston, of course, being the prime example, with replicating elements at any scale, if you just look at them in the right way), but really, we see this same element in the major world centres now, with a mall in Tokyo looking much like a mall in Vancouver, looking much like a mall in Hong Kong, looking……
Only the scripts change, not the brands.
Still, there’s character to be had. This is Hong Kong, after all, cinema set for some of the great films of our time.
The Lin Heung and Luk Yu tea houses are a part of the old fabric of the town, the material used by John Woo, Wong Kar Wai, and Stephen Chow, to name but a few. That article in the Cathay in-flight had reminded me of this, and given at least some façade of structure to my visit.
My walk took me to Jaffe, and Wan Chai. But would Richard Holden recognize it in this day and age?
Perhaps.
I had a look-in at Joe Bananas, but it was far too early. Still, the neighborhood was packed with spots that had the look of solid liver damage.
And the eating looked good (although I was saving myself).
The taste of things has moved south a bit. I was hearing more and more Tagalog in the markets and in the street, and there was even a background note of Thai (or Lao) out there. And most of the restaurants were advertising a hint of Isaan.
But there seemed to be a void. It’s a hard thing to put your finger on, but some of the life seemed to have left the city. When I’d been here before in the early 90’s, it had always felt like you’d just rubbed your bare fingers against a live circuit. Now….well, it just seemed as if the current had drained away.
A little too quiet.
A little too clean.
But perhaps it’s just me, trying to recapture lost memories?
Next – a number on a door
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It's time to pick things up where I left them, that drizzly day of more than a month gone by.
I have Japan more or less out of my system, but I still have the remains of that odd, quirky day at the end of March to finish.
Let's carry on.
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Another option, which I prefer, is to take the train in the other direction and make for Leiden. It's about the same distance, but the town is an easier walk, and there's no shortage of pleasant cafes and restaurants along the canals with which to take your time between flights.
(I do caution, though, that I've only been there in the care of friends living there, so I can't vouch for any particular restaurant...)
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The prescreen gets around the Asian Problem of much of a restaurant's following and reputation being a thing of almost allegiance, rather than critical review. I think this is where Zagat gets stuck at times. The whole business of voting is troublesome, as you often find in popular votes that people don't vote for what they think is best, but rather for what (or who) they think will win (and there's a whole argument there that I could twist off on with regards to popular democracy).
I had high hopes, but actually looking at their list of nominees for Japan, there are some pretty surprising entries:
Arms
Canal Cafe
Dexee Diner (Shibuya)
Frames (Daikanyama)
Homework's (Minato)
Junkadelic
Jyu (Shibuya)
Pizzeria Bar D'Oro
The Tavern (Yokohama)
What the Dickens
Zest Cantina
Burger joints, British-style pubs, designer cafes. None of them bad, but still odd choices for "best restaurant in Asia."
(Sorry to return to the tangent.)
I was looking through the list, and it does have an odd collection. But then again, I see a number of fairly good choices in the lists (Ryugin is there, Iggy's in Singapore, etc).
It'll be an interesting book when it's done. I'll withhold judgement until I see what's in the pages.
In the meantime, I may sneak in another eating trip before the WGF in September. That'll give me a chance to try some things out.
Edited to say: we should probably open a new topic for this, outside of this travelogue.
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Took so many photos, so whilst i'm sorting and uploading them here's a teaser. Prizes for anyone who recognises the view and the fantastic restaurant it is taken from. Probably the best restaurant meal of my life so far....
Do I get points for saying it's nowhere I ate?
A view. Man, the only view I ever had was of Scud (I still kept my appetite).
I'm looking forward to this.
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I'm straying off topic, I know. Let me try and get back to Japan.
Of all the experiences on this trip, if I was to name one particular thing as the best item, it would be the time spent with the Kitagawas at their brewery in Fushimi. That smell in the air, with the richness of working yeast, is something that just woke me up.
Very good sake is something I'm going to miss. I'll have to put some effort into expanding my Japanese connections in Bangkok, and there's an artisinal sake concern in Vancouver that I'll look into when I get back.
But it's not going to be the same as that fresh pressed daiginshu that Mr. Kitagawa poured for me.
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Perhaps you can help me here - don't let the post count fool you, I'm very much an egullet newbie (I just have more time on my hands than most and the enthusiasm that comes from not having been able to do much cooking or food shopping for a year).
Someone else has been thinking about this, in another forum (Flyertalk) I learnt about the Miele Guide which is now accepting votes for its guide to Asian restaurants. You need to give them the first 6 digits of your VISA card to qualify to do this.
More information here: http://www.mieleguide.com/
The guy who instigated this talks more about this scheme here: http://chubbyhubby.net/blog/?p=530
He had the same misgivings about the same list I had.
As this requires contributions from those familiar with Asian restaurants I'm not sure where the best place to put a thread inviting people to vote would be. The more discerning people who do so (and who better than an egulleteer?
) the more useful it will be for everyone. Asia is an Aladdin's cave for anyone who loves food - but it's vast, the caverns, numerous winding and intricate, the treasures magnificent and plentiful, beyond the wildest mercury fueled dreams of Qin Shi Huang Di. Another English speaking guide would be welcome. Michelin Tokyo doesn't seem to be a bad start though, they've been refining their entries for other cities, hopefully they'll do the same for this one - it has the potential to become an authoritative resource in perhaps 5-10 more editions (I doubt they nailed France on their first attempt)I've been talking with others about the proposed Miele Guide offline. It's a reasonable premise, with a "prescreeening" of restaurants by food critics, before unleashing the hordes (I'll be in the horde). Miele, like Michelin, have good reasoning in promoting this sort of thing, perhaps even more so, as they've got an interest in putting forward restaurant culture so that (hopefully) more people will be putting their equipment in their kitchens.
The prescreen gets around the Asian Problem of much of a restaurant's following and reputation being a thing of almost allegiance, rather than critical review. I think this is where Zagat gets stuck at times. The whole business of voting is troublesome, as you often find in popular votes that people don't vote for what they think is best, but rather for what (or who) they think will win (and there's a whole argument there that I could twist off on with regards to popular democracy).
Let's face it, finding the places to eat anywhere can be a pain. Unless you're well connected with a network of eaters (which is where eGullet comes in mighty handy), it can be tough going finding the really good spots in your own home town, let alone when you're thousands of miles away, brain dead from jet lag, and with only 48 hours to get in eight meals.
Finally, I've a lot of respect for Aun Koh (Chubby Hubby). He's a good choice for this sort of thing, as you know he's never one to shirk work (heck, he goes out looking for more to do). If he's shouldered the load, it should come through.
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I’d said earlier that I’d come back to the Michelin Guide. Now would be the time. Not that my views matter a lot in the scheme of things, but I did want to vent, and that’s what posting’s all about, neh?
The Red Book has been coming under a lot of flack these last few years. First there was the scandal concerning the “preallocation” of stars for certain restaurants. The expansion to NYC seemed to go fairly smooth, but the addition of Tokyo has (at least in the press) garnered more blame than fame.
The crux of the matter – picked up by the press with a certain glee – comes down to local indignation over the hubris that would lead Michelin to feel they’re qualified to rank and grade the restaurants of Tokyo.
A lot has been made of Kadowaki's "refusal" to be included, and his comments on the appropriateness of Michelin’s stars in Tokyo is perhaps the most used sound bite (can I say that with regards to print articles?), but if you poke around you can find more details on his reasoning. His was a combination of relevance, and of the market that he wanted to draw.
But in later pieces, there is a little second guessing, so it’s not as fixed a position. In the Asahi piece he considers now that the stars may have been good for him, but typically sees “good” not as a marketing tool, but how it would help his staff, raising their morale (they seemed perfect when I was there, but it's good to know owners are thinking of the staff).
But is there really an imposition of selection here? If taken as a “guide” isn’t it doing its job? Michelin has their process and procedures for evaluating restaurants and hotels, they apply this, and they post the results.
Now, bear in mind, as noted in a current thread , the format has changed from the tightly packed Red Book of years gone by.
From my viewpoint (which is sitting at my desk looking down on the book with a cup of coffee in one hand and a mouse in the other), they’ve provided me with a well packaged (okay, the spine’s a little tight) book of a convenient size that gives me fair visuals on what the restaurant looks like, and a very good map (with an external shot) to get me there. After fumbling about trying to find places with the other “tools” I had, this was a godsend.
They also provide a brief description of the restaurant, and try to highlight items that would affect my decision, which is how I chose Ryugin. They do spend a little too much of their limited text on descriptions of the décor, as opposed to the food, but that’s my take.
Oh, and I shouldn’t forget, we do get the little flip card animation of the pneumatic Mssr. Bibendum down in the bottom right!
If we consider this as a guide for visitors (which is what I am and always will be) then I’d take the position that they’ve accomplished their purpose. Isn’t their role to assess and recommend restaurants for the “motorist” who’s passing through, and wants a meal that will meet certain standards? These tastes may not correspond to those of the locals, and therein lies the issue, I believe.
So, is it really a case of Michelin “imposing” their decision upon Tokyo? Or is it rather that they’ve simply provided a set of recommendations as a service to we foreigners who bumble our way through?
The weight of reputation that Mssr. Bibendum carries is such that the matter cannot be this simple. Which, of course, takes us back to marketing.
But, if you ask me, should I have tried harder to get a copy of the guide in advance, and have planned from that? Then, yes, it would have served me well.
Next time I’ll be better prepared.
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Here's a good quote from the prosecuter in the case:
“It doesn’t matter what they do in Victoria, Australia, it doesn’t matter what they do in Taiwan,” he said.
“If you don’t like (Alberta laws) get out of the business.”
Niiiiice
Culturally diverse, that's us (until you hit the bureaucracy).
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I'm reading Musashi so I think some of the historical things do interest me.
I have one more question: Will you adopt me?
Which are you reading? Kenji Tokitsu's work is excellent, and probably the only version of the Go Rin No Shyo that's worth its salt. I read that last year, and it changed a lot of my viewpoints on the traditional martial arts, fine arts, and many aspects of readings of Japanese history.
As for the adoption, you're going to have to take a number.
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AMV's
During the trip Scud was spending part of his time checking out on what AMV's were coming online, and how his own were doing in the competitions.
AMV stands for anime music video, and is a subset of the fandom of anime.
Given that the Boy has two pieces that are food related - and that anime was a key point of this trip - I'll post the links here
and
You'll find more of his stuff out there, but you might need earplugs for some of it.
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Thanks, Hiroyuki,
Looking back on the meals, I'd say the food fell into two categories.
On the one hand there are those times when I have something new (and good). That has a novelty factor, or a certain atmosphere, that counts for a lot for the moment, but you know that the second, third, fourth passes will never give you that same excitement. My first proper takoyaki at that counter top in Osaka. The yakitori in Ryugoku. The tonkatsu in Kyoto station. My first onomiyaki.
The tuna tartare with caviar at Morimoto's. These were all good, and I would happily stop in for another round if I'm in the neighborhood, but I'm just as likely to try the place next door.
Then there's the other side. Meals that I really enjoyed, and that I would happily eat again. Okariba falls into this category. Not only was the flavour of the food memorable (in a good way), but there was a comfort to the place that just draws me. Aoki san is just such a pleasant host, and I can see him now standing patiently over his grilling boar.
Ryugin is another that I'd be back at in a flash (DHL the leftovers, Rona!). Seiji Yamamoto is doing some really fun things, and if I could have taken another reservation while we were there, I would have. He does travel a fair bit, so I'll be keeping an eye out on the festival circuit to see if I can intercept him elsewhere in my travels.
Beer Club Popeye! I'll be back (I'm a member, after all). The hopped sausage they did was excellent, and Scud thought very well of their baked Alaska.
It's never fair to make lists, but it's in our nature. Those three are the ones that call to me the strongest, the places I would make regular if I was spending more time in Japan.
I seriously need more vacation time.
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And Serena's continually whinging about "when do I get to go?"
Yes, you must send her over while I'm still here (which means the clock is ticking!). I must prove to her that I'm not Yukari! Plus I must share some homemade yuzu caramels with her. She might like them! And some of my poundcake. I bed she's appreciate it! Humph!
I think the most important part will be showing her how to prepare cotton candy.
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Oh wait I do have a question: In comparison to all the other trips you've done, say BKK or China, where would you ranks this in terms of eating, sightseeing, and general ease of travel. I'm sure it was costly so we won't even go there. Hopefully the next time Serena will get her chance to spend some time with Daddy.
Costly? Japan?
Actually, I didn't find Japan "that bad" in regards to prices on the mid to high end. This is comparing Tokyo with London, Dubai, or New York. In discussions, in generally seems that the prices that were crazy in '97 have hung in that same area. What was an abusively expensive city in the early 90's is now just pricey. For example, my accommodations in Hong Kong proved more expensive than in Tokyo.
That's at the higher end.
It's at the lower end that the crunch comes. The moment by moment stuff of a train ticket here, a cab fare there, and (most difficult to bear) the cost of a beer. When you switch over to that "only 1,000 yen? Just buy it!" mode, you know you've lost it.
But, outside of Tokyo, prices improve quickly. Osaka wasn't as bad, and neither was Kyoto (although admission prices can eat away at you very quickly).
In terms of general ease of travel, you'd have a split decision. I found it quite simple to get around. Give me a map and good shoes, and I'm quite content. Scud, however, would vote to the contrary, citing hours of walking, and the inevitable getting lost trying to find an underground station. The trains are fairly straightforward once you understand the signage and the system of expresses, limited expresses, and large cats that fly through the sky (sorry, Serena's watching Totoro and I caught that out of the corner of my eye).
Sightseeing? If you like anime and manga, it's great! Movies, too. As Japanese culture is a cornerstone of our video life, the simple recognition factor that you experience walking past iconic locales is a lot of fun. But this presupposes a certain exposure already exists. On the historical side, it depends on how much you've read. I'd recently finished The Imjin War, and was keen on seeing Hideyoshi's legacy in the Kansai. And after all the translated "classics" I'd gone through at university, the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa eras all hold a certain fascination for me (and are dead dull to Scud, although he could click with some of the anime locales).
However, I'm not a big fan of temples for their own sake. I can admire the architecture and the materials, but after four or five I start yawning. If I want temples, I'll go back to Luang Prabang (which'll be April next year for Pimai).
Eating? Ah, there's the crux of the matter, and one that I'll ruminate over further. For me, eating in Japan was very much an education. In the West we fixate more on sushi and sashimi (hey, in Vancouver the ingredients are so good). I'd been exposed to other elements of Japanese cooking in Thailand and Egypt, but not in an immersive sense, rather as an odd meal here or there. This trip afforded the opportunity to explore paths that I'm just not going to find elsewhere (although Bangkok has some very interesting options).
And Serena's continually whinging about "when do I get to go?"
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Rona says that I confuse people.
Rona's usually right.
We've now finished the recounting of the trip. I'll wrap up my one day in Hong in the Hong Kong thread. Given that I've already covered the first third of a day, the rest should only take me a month or so (stop smirking, you lot).
The time now for this is in the post mortem.
A number of questions have arisen that I promised to address at a later date, and that date is now upon us.
Unfortunately, that means I have to remember the topics.
Feel free to kick in (as I know you will), and we'll take our targets of opportunity.
However, before we get into the blood and guts (no, wait, we already did the horumon), I'd like to make some gestures.
Okay, a gesture.
I'd like to thank all of those who have helped me on this trip, both before, during and after. I think a special round of applause goes out to Rona and Hiroyuki, who have been unstinting in their time and support. For myself, I find this forum is one of the greatest tools for education that exists in our world.
Noisy, but educational.
Also, I'd like to thank Helen, who managed to get Scud to speak more than 10 words on a telephone!
Okay, let the games begin.
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March 30 – Dansu, dansu, dansu
The string of clothing from the entry to my bed pretty much told the tale of my progress through the room when I’d come home.
At least I managed to get to my bed without stepping on Scud.
This was our last morning. Scud was already awake when I got up, and engrossed in the cartoons. Myself, I contemplated the softness of my bed, and tried to remember why I wanted to get out of it.
The reason, of course, was to have a bath. My last really proper bath for quite some time to come. This is something I’d miss.
And after the bath, there was the dance of departure. The intricate, ritualized performance in which we clear out of a temporary home, having hoisted our metaphorical leg on the various nooks and fire hydrants.
The dance includes the memorial downing of the last Yebisu. We rinsed the can (we always rinse our cans), and made one last entry in the Wall of Beer. Let’s call it an “installation”.
Another week and it could’ve been really impressive.
One of my concerns had been getting ourselves and our luggage to the airport. This turned out to be a non-issue. The simple answer was that we took a taxi to the ANA of cherry blossom fame, and from there took the bus out to Narita.
Piece of cake.
The airport was still under a high terror alert, but Scud and I had our papers on us, but there were a surprising number of people on the bus (mainly foreigners) who had their passports locked up in their suitcases. I guess I’m just not as trusting as they.
At the airport it was time to settle down and get some food in us in the Cathay lounge.
Yes, we’re back to airport pictures.
And, besides putting on a good spread in the cabin, I’d like to acknowledge Cathay for their graciousness. When I asked if my son could join me in the lounge (I had Scud in cattle class on JAL for the trip back to Vancouver – I have no shame), they didn’t blink an eye, just happily gave us another voucher to get in. Compare that to flying with American or Continental in business when I’d been back in the Americas at the start of the year.
Here’s the open-faced sandwich/inarizushi selection. Lots of mayonaise squeeze bottle action at play here.
I hate to say it, but I didn’t care much for the bacon. Not really salty enough for me.
The onigiri were another matter. They had a great selection of these. And they came colour coordinated!
Scud and I ate our way through the plum, the sea tangle, the bonito, and the hot cod roe
(we gave the salmon and tuna a miss).
And they also carried Asahi’s dark beer. A little sweet, thick but not to the point of syrupy. Not a great beer, but a welcome change (especially when I’d already been closing the books, so to say). The only problem was that it was on an auto pour system, and I’d just gone for a small glass, rather than the proper beer mug they had there.
I cleaned up the mess, don’t worry.
Scud and I did our farewells.
“Bye.”
“Bye.”
And then I was off for my terminal, and he for his.
The flight to Hong Kong was a nice cocooning out of the country. Pleasant stewardesses, good food (as per the flight in), and to balance out the excellent Le Grand Chef that we’d seen coming in as a food movie selection, we had Johnny Depp’s latest foodie flick!
Sweeny Todd!
I’m hankering for a meat pie.
Next – Hong Kong Retro
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I wonder why Horumon Dojo would change the name on the place? That's such a great name.
Changed hands?
Here's another mystery:
This blog entry, dated June 16, 2006, says that Horumon Dojo Yamiichi Club (ホルモン道場闇市倶楽部) started a new restaurant iin Roppongi, but the restarant was soon renamed to Horumon Club Roppongi Dojo (ホルモン倶楽部 六本木道場).
Did the restaraunt later changed hands to Horumon Club?
The website of Horumon Dojo Yamiichi Club:
Ah, the intrigue grows. There could be a great story in this of conspiracies and illuminati!
I love a mystery!
(thanks, y'all!)
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Yup. He said it wasn't really "discard", but rather "push off to the side" for something to be done with it later. The thought being that you wouldn't put this to guests (friends or paying), but would rather do something with it yourself later on, rather than wasting it.
I wonder why Horumon Dojo would change the name on the place? That's such a great name.
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I found your restaurant here: http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a354301/
There's a run down on the chef here: http://recipe.gnavi.co.jp/chef/1261.html
He trained in France, there are numerous French wine bottles, you got served sweetbreads, yet you fixated on the 'Korean-ness' of a restaurant that didn't even serve you garlic until asked!
Didn't the kimchi have enough garlic to sate your craving?
MoGa, if you don't mind, could you put up a translation of more of the details in English? I'm curious about this place. I've found some bits on the old place - Horumon Dojo - on the web, but nothing on this. Why'd he open here? What're his views on offal? What's his shoe size? That sort of thing.
I think "fixating" is the right word. There were so many tangential threads that you start wanting to believe.
Makkoli for Heaven's sake! It's hard enough to find it in Korea. I'd usually have to have people go out of their own restaurant and go buy me some.
Whenever there's a fight there's always a foreigner involved... sigh... Glad to learn it wasn't you! Perhaps it was a Pimp of Roppongi Crossing quarreling over turf.No, this was much more of a UK thing. At least he didn't put the boots to him once he was down.
I remember drinking at the Sunrise on Main in Vancouver once. It was Boxing Day and we were all on a wander. Suddenly one strapping young fellow in the bar pulled one of the tables out, bolts and all, and heaved it at another gentleman with whom he was engaged in debate. We all looked around at our half finished pints, and, in unison, affirmed that we were done.
It's good to know when to leave.
- which reminds me, on my first visit to Tokyo (2002) I spoke at length to a bar owner. He'd moved to Roppongi from another part of Tokyo and was delighted to have done so - much less extortion rackets going on in this area than in others. Those Pimps of Roppongi Crossing might be gentlemen after all.Tokyo Underworld by Robert Whiting is a great read on the post-war yakuza, and the introduction of pizza to Japan. My copy's with a friend who's recovering from knee surgery right now. I'll have to get it back and give it a reread.
One more day to go........
Reports on Hong Kong dining
in China: Dining
Posted
March 31 – East Enders
I used my time that afternoon to put up the first piece of this day in Hong Kong. It was just one of those moments when you have to write something, no matter how bad it is.
It also afforded me some time to make more of my room. The nice people at Jia had moved me up to a suite when I arrived, and it was quite an interesting place to spend some time.
Little nooks and crannies. Like the flaming turd of Asahi, this was Phillipe Starck’s design. Lots of white. A small kitchen (if, for whatever bizarre reason, I should feel the need to cook. Like Seoul, I have to wonder if anyone actually cooks at home here?), and a little reading area behind the television, a setee by the window. Good wireless, a comfortable bedroom, and a coffee table formed from a Qingdao advertisement.
Maybe later I’ll post a picture of the footstools composed of three of Snow White’s 7 dwarves.
But, with a modicum of time and a pot of tea, I felt more like walking the mean streets again.
But I only made it as far as the nearest juice bar, and then I realized that what I really needed was a refreshing beverage.
I’d passed The East End Brewery earlier in the day, and had promised myself I’d look in later on. It was still early, I had a fully charged laptop, and a nice beer on a rainy day is as good a way to spend time as any.
I’d asked as to their “seasonal” but it wasn’t to be had. So I went for an Aldrich Bay Pale Ale, one of two of their own brews. This wasn’t bad, with a reasonable start on the head, but this fell away to scum quickly enough. It lingered in the back of your mouth, and gave a fairly good showing for itself. Bust a some peanuts with this, listen to Zevon singing Werewolves of London, admire the rain, and I could be back in Yaletown.
Their other offering is the Too Soo Brew, a lager. This had a very crisp head, a light amber colour, and, oddly, no bubbles. It was drinkable, but lacked the crispness I’d look for in a lager.
There was a good selection of draught (including San Miguel from the PI), Tsing Tao, Stella, and Hoegaarden. And a wide selection in the bottle, with some large Chimays up in the back there.
The bar filled up around me as folks came in from work, shaking out their umbrellas at the door. Others were still outside, either screaming into their cell phones, or having a cigarette, or doing both.
In an article in the paper I’d picked up, one of the Chinese government ministers had held a press conference detailing how they were going to be promoting a healthier lifestyle for the Chinese. He then finished the conference, stepped out into a No Smoking hallway, and had a cigarette.
That had me feeling better.
Next: Dinner