Beachfan

Hard to believe, but I've never been in all my years growing up in NYC and all my years back for culinary excursions and lost weekends. I love smoked fish. I have a spot open for Sunday brunch. I'd rather do something like this than a big brunch. Is it worth the shlep from midtown to face the lines? Should I get the sturgeon? Normally, I get my sturgeon fix at Balducci's downtown.

Were any libations worth mentioning consumed?

For cheese board fans (or critics), please add your posts so our distinguished NYC moderator can decide whether to visit the people's republic to see how well the masses are fed in Berkeley. I was last there on Wednesday. As usual, I missed the pizza hours (11:30 to 2:00, 4:30 to 7). This time however, I kept myself busy after the cheese tasting and purchase by visiting North Berkely Wine (and gazing upon the temple that is Chez Panisse (both across the street). First the cheese. This place will give you a taste of everything in a fashion that ensures no guilt molecules are produced. Furthermore, as a single grazer, It's hard to get an assortment of cheese without buying 4 pounds. Not here. For my midafternoon snack, I craved some goat cheese. They had about 20 varieties, and gave me several tastes. Then on to some hard cheese (tasting about 4 before selecting one). Here's what I got: 1/4 of Redwood Hill Chabis: I often don't get Redwood Hill because it's usual young age, but this was at a perfect state of affinage. Also, where else can you get a quarter of one of these small rounds, it's usually hard enough to get a half. Perfect slightly tangy goat cheese, a little runny at the edge like a good Boucheron. 1/4 block of Lingot: A new French goat cheese for me, not in any of my books. Half way between Boucheron and a goat brie. Really Awesome. Definitely one to look out for. Toscana (aged): An artisanal Peccorino from Tuscany, a little milder than I might have prefered, but very fine. Not too salty some some of the lesser Peccorino's. Since my wife love's sheep cheese, I had to bring one. Got to try their Manchego, Osseraty, etc. before I settled. Hoch YBrig; Well, that's what the hand label said! An aged gouda, very complex, superb, not quite as over the top as some other very old goudas (a good thing for me). Prima Donna: Another new discovery. Hand made in Italy. All I can think of to describe it is a blend between aged gouda, aged comte and a third part aged provolone. Absolutely fabulous. I was helped by Artie, who is not only incredibly knowledgeable and with good taste, but can actually give 2-3oz portions of many cheeses for fanatics like me who need portion control. As for bread, they bake amazing bread right there. And they have "baguette pieces" which are sort rolls with the texture of the baguettes they sell. Perfect for the cheese nosh. I also got a cheese roll (outstanding) and a cheese scone (very good, interesting marriage of two food groups). Now on to the pizza, just next door. They are the epitome of California pizza, what Wolfgang Puck occassionally gets to, they produce regularly. They have one selection each day. On Wednesday it was Roma tomato with mozzarella, roasted onion, feta, arugula, and lemon zest. Believe it or not, the lemon zest was the perfect ingredient to take the pizza to the next level. An incredibly well balanced super fresh spring day on a slice. A word on the crust: Perfect. Thin, zero tip droop. The type you read about in the pizza threads on the NYC board when they wax nostalgic about the pizza of their childhood. Anyone else have a comment to post!

Any comments on the new Bouley from someone whose been? As a former worshipper, I'd love to return to the fold.

Personally, I think any successful NYC restaurant giving a delicious wine option for $21 is a miracle. So what if it's triple retail. It's $21. Most restaurants are $12 for a glass of red I can't tolerate. If you can name me two other instances of delicious wine for $21 or so at restaurants that are both great and packed, I will agree it's not a big deal. Until then, praise Bacchus.

Apologies for the multiple posts. When I added more to my reply after posting, it added the whole thing again.

If you like Steve's recommendations, also try Domaine Clavel La Copa Santa (their top end) from southern France (Languedoc?) at discount around $17. For $10 and under try Falesco Vitiano (I like their Montiano, but that's quadruple the price). For white's, try Pieropan's Soave single vineyards (such as La Rocca in 98), or Gini (not quite as good, but cheaper). Back to Reds. Beaurenard makes a nice Cote du Rhone Rasteau 99 at about $11 discount. Allegrini Palazzo della Torre in 97 was lovely. Anyone have the 98 yet (about $14)? By the way, I self import another way. I bring empty wine shippers over and have them filled on the way back. Usually 3 cases. If I got stuck paying overweight baggage (a distinct possibility if you don't have high tier frequent flyer status) it would probably cost about as much as the formal import, but I've been lucky the 3 times I did it and didn't pay anything. Unlike the US, the winery is the cheapest place to buy things in Europe. Often 20% cheaper than the store in town. If you hit the right area during the right vintage, it's fabulous. Steve, do you use one for all over France or does it vary by region. Recommendations for France and Italy would be appreciated.

If you like Steve's recommendations, also try Domaine Clavel La Copa Santa (their top end) from southern France (Languedoc?) at discount around $17. For $10 and under try Falesco Vitiano (I like their Montiano, but that's quadruple the price). For white's, try Pieropan's Soave single vineyards (such as La Rocca in 98), or Gini (not quite as good, but cheaper). Back to Reds. Beaurenard makes a nice Cote du Rhone Rasteau 99 at about $11 discount. Allegrini Palazzo della Torre in 97 was lovely. Anyone have the 98 yet (about $14)?

If you like Steve's recommendations, also try Domaine Clavel La Copa Santa (their top end) from southern France (Languedoc?) at discount around $17. For $10 and under try Falesco Vitiano (I like their Montiano, but that's quadruple the price). For white's, try Pieropan's Soave single vineyards (such as La Rocca in 98), or Gini (not quite as good, but cheaper). Back to Reds. Beaurenard makes a nice Cote du Rhone Rasteau 99 at about $11 discount. Allegrini Palazzo della Torre in 97 was lovely. Anyone have the 98 yet (about $14)?

I agree. Gramercy Tavern and other Danny Meyer restaurants are very friendly to BYO folks. On the other hand, one of the coldest NYC breezes I ever felt was when I inquired about it at Le Bernedin. In California, 99% of the restaurants allow it, most at a very reasonable cost ($20 or less).

Ecomonomics should dictate sliding scale. The upper end of the scale could be less than double retail (triple cost), and the restaurants would sell a lot more wine. Nonetheless, even with markup of triple plus, reasonable house wines should be available. Just not american wines. Go to Babbo or Lupa and see some miracles performed at the low end with Italian wines. At Lupa, Falesco Vitiano for $21. Sure, it's triple retail (if you are a sharp shopper), but it's delicious. I was waiting for a single seat at the bar, and while Î was waiting, bought a bottle, made two new friends and had a blast with it.

There have been times where the wine was misrepresented or not to my liking, and I usually mention it if the wine is disappointing. I sometimes order another bottle. Unless there is a real problem, I don't say anything about the bill, just my disappointment. Many times (much more than half at better restaurants), it's not on the bill. On the other hand, corked wine should be sent back. Some cork crumbs are no big deal, but losing 20% of the wine is. Other reasons to send back: Wine too warm or cold (often can be fixed) Chipped bottle lip leading to glass in wine Wine clearly vinegar-like Inappropriate amount of effervescence in non sparkling wine (a little may be ok)

A bottle is 28 oz. I'd say most restaurant pours are 4 oz, or 3.5 oz, giving you about 7 glasses per bottle.

I went to Yama today and loved it. I essentially agree with the prior comments, but the fish quality was very top notch. sake assortment better than average, and there were a couple of cooked dishes that were very good/excellent. Monk fish liver pate was also much better than most.

What a divine meal we just had at the Tasting Room. My second visit, both of them pretty much perfect. I'm adopting my friends modified scoring system. I used to give dishes 1 to 10 points. He has a category T, for trancendental. It's a useful category at the Tasting Room. I've used it for dishes that erase prior memories of what I previously thought was the best in class. For those of you who don't know it, items come in two sizes, "taste" and "share". Really, the portions are "share" and "big". We split everything, with the dishes coming out two at a time. Only the Grouper was the Share size. First Course: Roasted Japanese Eggplan, Fresh Feta Cheese, Rosemary, Vin Cotto Superb well cooked tender eggplant, flavors and textures playing perfectly of the fresh feta cheese. Superb (9). Second First Course: Chilled Squid Noodles, Olives, Grape Tomatoes, Tangerine Juice Fabulous offering pairing threads of squid with noodles of same shape and very similar texture. It was the flavor that contrasted. The Tangerine Juice and spices gave it an evocation of Thai cusine. It reminded me of Matsuhisa's squid pasta, taken to the next level conceptually (with Thai instead of Japanese flavors).(10) Wine Note: We had a 2000 Martinelli Dry Gewurtztraminer, a fabulous pairing with the pacific rim first cources. Martinelli and Navarro may be the only two US wineries doing really well with this varietal. Comparable to a highquality village Alsatian wine (say 90 points for those who count them?). First Second Course: Smoked Trout, quail Eggs, Spiced Rolled Bacon. Funny, I don't remember the bacon, but the greens it was served on was outstanding. Excellent very fresh. lightly smoked trout. The hard boiled quail eggs were cute but didn't add much to the flavor. However, the sauce was delightful (9). Second Second Course: Fois Gras Terrine, Green Apple, Celery Root, Maple Here the meal shifted gears into trancendental. By that I mean better than any Fois Gras I've had in the US. It took me back to my summer in Provence, where the michelin one stars all do house terrines that make you want to move there. The Celery Root,Apple, Maple combo was a great concept and fantastic counterpoint to the fois gras. (T for transcendental). Second Second Course, Second Time The Fois Gras Terrine was so special, sharing a taste was not enough. We shared another one! First Third Course: Manhattan Clam Chowder, Scallops, Littleneck Clams, Potatoes Wow! Scallops so tender that Rene (Proprietress/hostess) might have lured them out of the ocean today by singing some sweet siren song. A tomato broth thinner than a traditional chowder, but rich, redolent of fresh tomato flavors, and spicy. I'm a Manhatten Chowder fan, and I've never had a better one. The tiny pototatoes were superb, some tender gourmet variety that I can never remember. Oh, and the clams were very fine! (T) Wine Note: At this point, I switched to a 1994 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape (375 ml), that I brought along. The Tasting Room's generous corkage policy is buy a bottle, and you can open a bottle with the only fee being a taste for one of the staff. 1994 is supposed to be a slightly off year, but this bottle was gorgeous, and showing very well. Pretty typical flavors for Beaucastel, but mellower at a younger age than the bigger vintages. Second Third Course Seared Grouper, Kabocha Squash Puree, Spinach What more accolades can I lavish on the food? Perfectly cooked perfect fish, a little bit of crispy skin still on, the slight sweetness of the squash along with it's texture had me unconciously forking them together, bite by bite. A top flight dish (10+). Desert Lemon Tart, Caramel Sauce, Whipped Cream Reminiscent of that perfect tart you remember from France, yet much lighter. Super pure lemon flavor underlying the caramel. By the time you finish, memories of perfect lemon ice waft in as the last bites levitate off the plate. (10) My thanks to Steven for his great review at his site for turning me on to this place. PS If you don't like tight squeezes, ask for the table by the door. PPS Cost for this amazing meal was a super reasonable ๘ per head including the first bottle of wine and tax, excluding tip.

I've been to Tomoe once, and liked it, but wasn't wowed by it. My favorite downtown is ISO, on the east side. Any comments about that one? I agree that it isn't quite a destination place like the hyperexpensive ones, but I'm an out of towner, and the Village itself is a destination. And ISO is great, not that far below, just a notch below Nobu (which is a little overrated in my opinion). When I'm eating out a few days in a row, sushi in the Village is perfect for one of the evenings. Your right about the Yama location, I'm going to the one on Carmine. They take reservations.

Any comments on this sushi spot? I'm scheduled to go on Thursday.

After living in California for 20 years, I'd like to shout out for my home boys. But I can't. The comments made above are generally true; worse, the price inflation has made it a poor choice. You can raise prices 25% per year while there's a boom economy and great vintages; combine a lousty vintage (1998 in general) with a recession, and there will be some very sad songs being sung. Nonetheless, here are some oasis of excellence: Kistler Pinot Noir (trojan horse) winning in a Premier/Grand Cru Burg tasting 1991 Dominus and 1990 Pichon Baron - almost dead ringers for each other! Chateau Montelena in 1991, (and pretty steady throught the years) Martinelli Pinot Noir's Zinfandel (Martinelli, Turley) - like jazz, a true American (very fruity and alcoholic, true) Now that I've done my patriotic duty, I confess that I usually find Italian wines far better value and provide some of the same early drinking pleasures (Paradisio Saxa Calida, Sportoletti Villa Fidelia), not to mention the Southern Rhone. Sad to say, I got very solid Bordeaux 2000 futures (Lynch Bage, the Leovilles, the Pichons) and better prices than I could get the California super seconds. However, California will rise again (once they get rid of the unsold 1998 Cabs that are causing distribution to grind to a halt and recognize they aren't competing with Bordeaux, they're compenting with Australia, Umbria and Spain).

Splurge night for wine: 1994 Bryant Family 1996 Harlan 1985 Dom Perignon and maybe a Bollinger Grand Annee 1990 at midnight

Although not Italian, I've heard good things about Morrell Wine Bar. I haven't eaten there but I duck in while my wife watches figure skaters. Any comments on the food?

If you liked the oysters/tapioca concoction, then it's probably great for you (as it is for most of the world). I found the textures to similar from dish to dish, and on the food somewhat bland. I started adding black pepper around the 4th course. Only been there once, and want to go back to try it. I've found Fleur de Lys in SF to be consitstently superb. They offer a vegetarian tasting menu that sends vegetarians into orbit, and will serve a different tasting menu to others at the table. In fact, I get a seafood menu, my wife goes veggie, and there are often two carnivores with us, and we're all in ecstasy.

My no red meat bias may partially explain my divergent view. Also, I'm thinking of bang for the buck at at the high end. For what you pay at Gramercy Tavern, can you get equivalent food in Paris? Three starred restaurants are much more expensive, even at today's relatively favorable rate.

The practice at Babbo is super. Very decent italian wines in a quarter carafe, which runs to about 1 1/2 good sized glasses. Around ฟ if I remember. Of course, Italian wines are great for value.

What a relief. I've been away, and when I saw how the heading, and the number of responses, I thought some bizarre post-WTC economic fallout had hit Babbo and they were serving rubber chicken. Living in LA gives a unique perspective on water: NYC tap water is delicious. It's part of why NYC food is delicious. I expect that, when you order bottled water, without further comment, you are doing so for the duration of the meal. As long as they don't top everyone's glasses before the end of the meal, it's appropriate to keep on bringing it - ASSUMING no other communication to the contrary. That doesn't mean it's the right practice, just what I expect. Finally, I hate Evian and love Pellegrino (former tastes like chalk, the later crisp and clear). I've loved it every since my first visit to Italy in 1970. I'm happy to report it's more common in Southern France than Badoit!

Three stars is a special and narrow type of excellence. It is about elegance, and an overall experience that is partially dependant on incredible food, but also on the silverware, plates, etc. It is "dressed up" to the ultimate. It's not necessarily the best way to run this contest. I often prefer dining below 34th st. partially because I'm not personally as comfortable in a suit. I've eaten often in Paris, but I feel NYC is the best place to plan a food extravaganza (assuming cost is an object). Dollar for dollar, I take NYC over Paris. Rome is awesome, but there, I shoot for the moderate places.