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TAPrice

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by TAPrice

  1. 1. Tasting ingredients.

    ....

    I then went back to my hotel room and tasted every herb repeatedly. This radically improved my ability to taste a dish and identify the herbs in it, even though I still get it wrong all the time (just as with wine tasting, where even after years of practice you get fooled in blind tastings all the time). You can do the same thing with spices, with condiments like fish sauce and soy sauce, etc. Just having a good grip on ingredients is a big step forward. Most people don't actually know what, say, thyme tastes like.

    Recently I've started tasting individual ingredients as I cook and then repeating their names three times (out loud if I'm cooking alone, under my breath if my wife is around). My theory is that detecting flavors is as much about mental awareness as it is sensory perception. Hopefully my mind will make a strong connection between the flavor and the name.

    Of course, there are limitation to this approach. Many raw items taste dramatically different when cooked.

  2. Did not realize how close it was to the streetcar line.  Will certainly make it a point to get out there then.

    I wouldn't consider it close. About 10 blocks. Not a terrible walk, although it will probably be hot as hell and twice as humid.

    By the time you get to Hansen's, though, you'll have earned that snowball.

  3. Consider:

    I might like Domilise's better for Po-Boys.  Maybe Parkway.  Try both if you can.

    I think Domilise's has really fallen in quality recently. Hate to say that, because I people are great and the atmosphere is fun. But the shrimp has been tiny and overbattered recently.

    If you're in the area after a Hansen's run, I would recommend Guy's Po-Boys on Magazine or red beans or jambalaya from Tee-Eva on Magazine and Dufossat.

  4. This is a quote from a 1943 ad touting the Ramos gin fizz at the Roosevelt Hotel in New Orleans:

    Now you can enjoy this famous drink in our Main Bar or Dinning Rooms. Women find the Ramos’ Fizz smooth and mild--yet satisfying...Men find it tangy and bracing..Try one or two today.
  5. do they really need another iron chef?

    I'd guess someone may be about to quit, or they're having problems scheduling the current chefs due to their outside commitments. Rumor was that Batali got a pass on appearing this season due to other things he was involved in.

    Perhaps Michale Symon didn't work out so well for the network. They pulled him from Dinner Impossible and brought back the guy with the questionable resume. I don't watch much Food Network. Does Symon have another show?

  6. Besh just opened Domenica at the newly renovated Roosevelt Hotel.

    Domenica won't open until September.

    I want to check out Galatoire's, but can't be there on Friday.  Is lunch on, like, Wednesday still worth going to?

    Sure, it's still an experience any day of the week. I would recommend Galatoire's as the place for an old-school experience. Commander's has a more classic service style, but the food is less old-school.

  7. My observation is that the mid-20th century model of urban/suburban development was centered around the use of the automobile, and so sprawling residential areas with a distant shopping district were the norm. There were, therefore, very few, if any, grocery stores within walking distance of many homes.

    By the late 20-th century, purchasing prepared food became more popular, as society was led into the "leisure age" and we wanted more time to play. Also, in the urban centers, the business model for a quick-serve outlet allowed for use of smaller spaces than food shops. Sometimes it's hard to rationalize purchasing $20 of groceries for 1 or 2 meals, against purchasing a $5 wrap sandwich. Especially for someone who does not consider cooking enjoyable.

    Certainly there are structural issues that prevent some urban and suburban dwellers from cooking. If ingredients are hard to come by, then you'll have to way other than cooking to feed yourself.

    It seems, though, that there are largely cultural issues at play. I'm constantly shocked by how little interest many of the vendors at my local farmers market (I'm in New Orleans, but they're coming from outside the city) have in the produce they sell. They grow items like Swiss chard or artichokes, but will tell me they have never tasted them and clearly have no interest in trying them.

    I'm sure these farmers do cook, but the lack of curiosity about what they grow suggests that a very limited repertoire of dishes are being made at home.

  8. I'd give him that one.  I would guess that, even in New York, fewer than 10% of all restaurants offer a free glass of sparkling wine in the bathroom.

    It's true. A glass of red is more common. :biggrin:

    I just remember much talk about his odd fixation on restaurants in the early reviews.

  9. In this review of Table 8, it looks like Frank Bruni is going out much as he came in: obsessed with restaurant bathrooms:

    In its opening weeks, it rewarded anyone who went to the bathroom with a glass of sparkling wine.

    At least that’s what happened the first time I dined there, when my companions and I noticed bubbly for the taking in a chamber beside the sinks.

    What to make of this? Freud surely would have had one answer. We had another: diners were being congratulated for actually managing to reach this remote, ill-marked destination, a Herculean feat involving an instinctive left here, a speculative right there, a hunch, a leap of faith, a descent into the underworld and a fearless crossing of the river Styx.

    Now that we know about his history of eating disorders, is it too facile to think that his focus on bathrooms when talking about food might arise from these psychological issues?

  10. I been deeply dubious about the whole legal "moonshine" thing. It reeks of a drink born in the marketing department. They're selling bad boy Southern attitude in a bottle. Not to mention that I don't understand how it can been moonshine if I can buy it at the Winn Dixie.

    But I was willing to withhold judgement. I figure it was unaged corn whiskey, which could be ok.

    I got samples of Midnight Moon and Catdaddy at Tales. I cracked them open tonight.

    Midnight Moonshine: the label says grain neutral spirits. It's got an old time hot rod on the mini-bottle. At least it says produced in North Carolina, so they're not just buying bulk netural spirits. Taste like cheap vodka. Unpleasant.

    Catdaddy: this is the moonshine bottled in a bottle that looks like crockery. I suppose when it's empty you can use it for those jug band gigs with Jethro and Jimbo in holler. Label says grain neutral spirit with natural and artificial flavor. Taste like vodka with sugar and fake vanilla flavor.

    So both of these really suck. And the maker, Piedmont Distellers, must realize they suck. In the little recipe book that came with the samples, most of the cocktail mix the moonshine one to one with other spirits (bourbon, gin and even vodka).

    Here is my question: what is moonshine? Is there a legal definition? And what flavor are they going for?

  11. As for Bing, (1) he isn't pitching them for his direct $ benefit (like Catherine Zeta-Jones for TMobile), but, rather, seems to be cross-plugging them for his network (you can bet it's a contractual thing), and (2) he never actually says a word about Bing.  Not to promote them, nor even mention them.  That being said, he IS in a plug for them, so I'm sticking with my shark-riding, if not actually shark-jumping, position . . .

    How do you know that he's not making money from the commercial?

  12. There is simply no evidence I can see that this is the case.  Not to be cruel, but I suppose I can see how two New Orleans bartenders might get that impression, considering that this is a city which was decried in the cocktailian community as a place where you couldn't get a decent drink as recently as a few years ago.  Which is to say that I don't think the state of cocktail books is reflective of cocktail culture, and they may not have had much opportunity to sample the fullness of revival cocktail culture.

    Kirk Estopinal was on the opening crew at the Violet Hour and worked there two years before coming home to New Orleans. He also participated in the bartender exchange with Death and Co.

    Maksym Pazuniak is a career changer. He was in commercial real estate in New York before deciding to take the B.A.R. course and become a bartender. Not sure if he worked anywhere in New York before moving to New Orleans, where he had gone to school.

    Over the last year, the level of talent has increased dramatically in New Orleans.

  13. The bar attached to MiLa (at the Renaissance Pere Marquette) is overseen by Chris McMillan. Then there's where Chris used to work, the Ritz-Carlton.

    The bar at the Ritz-Carlton is now a members only cigar bar. That's why Chris McMillian left.

  14. I was thinking popsicles just yesterday..I was wondering how to make a coconut one..any ideas? I have one of those plastic molds too. I remember making Kool Aid popsicles as a kid ...time for an upgrade!

    No idea if this would work, but what about coconut milk and a banana puree. Would it freeze hard enough, or would you need to add water (or something with high water content)?

  15. Any advice on how to make popsicles?

    I'm assuming any fruit puree can be frozen, but there has to be more to it than that.

    Any hints? Any combination that were particular good?

    I'm mainly making these for 1.5 year old, but I'm interested in popsicles for grownups as well.

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  16. Brett Anderson reviews Boucherie in the Times Picayune and gives it three beans. Short take: good food, bad service.

    The meal stretched on longer than planned -- much longer, in fact -- but my dining mates and I didn't really mind. Our party had plenty to discuss, and the food easily captured our attention. The wait was worth it.

    But does that make it OK?

    The answer is no, and how much that knowledge ruffles your feathers depends on how closely you believe the quality of a restaurant's food should correlate to the quality of its entire operation.

    Boucherie is nearly impossible to dislike -- but is also unmistakably flawed. It announces the emergence of an exciting chef still in the beginning stages of becoming a restaurateur.

    Personally, I haven't had the slow service that Brett got, but I've only gone for lunch. What have others experience?

  17. What we really need to do is find a way to feed the family that does not require an exhausted parent to spend yet another hour meeting the obligations of parenthood in the kitchen.  We should be pushing the food industry to improve the quality of their prepared foods, we should be showing how a salad along with eggs or cheese can meet dietary needs, we should be showing that using some pre-prepared foods in conjunction with fresh fruits and vegetables doesn't necessarily spell doom.

    Agreed. I love to cook, but getting dinner on the table by 5:30 for my one year old is not fun.

    It's a shame that there is hardly any decent, healthy take-out in America (perhaps NYC is different). Last time I was in Paris, I was amazed by the high-quality food that you could get at the traiteur on the way home.

  18. This is really fun. Thanks for sharing.

    I can say with some certainty, though, that everyone involved in this project must have grown up in a very different cultural milieu than me. Say the word skoal and I immediately have memories of high school jocks sitting in the back of class and furtively spitting brown goo into a cup.

    How did the chewing tobacco end up being named after a Swedish toast?

  19. Chris is a fantastic creative chef and this venue is PERFECT for him. I can't wait.

    Chris told me last week that they're still waiting on the health inspector. Hopefully is will all be legit soon and he can open the doors.

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