MarkDM

Burrata, from Puglia. Has anyone found this in the US? That's one of those things that would only be good if it were replicated here since it only lasts for a few days. Unless of course you could get it shipped over night from Bari.

Franci, we spent a day in Otranto last May (2005) and loved the town and the food. I'll have to dig up my food notes from our two weeks in Puglia and chime in. We had great meals in Ostuni, Lecce (especially), and Trani- a very nice small town with a surprising number of impressive restaurants. Kevin, unlike your experience, I remember being able to find seafood readily available pretty much everywhere, although we didn't venture further inland than Alberobello. Mark

There are trains from Naples to just about every small town throughout the Campania region. Or you could rent a car at the Naples airport (easier in and out, and avoid for the most part city driving) to drive to neighboring towns. Or, depending on the time of year- in off season there are some desperate tour guides that would probably be willing to drive you to Avellino, Benevento, etc.

Kevin, It's ridiculous- I'm so busy with the restaurant I can't get the travel notes from my Basilicata/Puglia trip written (from last May) and I can barely keep up with your culinary adventures. Living in Florida I can empathize with your despair of the heat. Today, we just dipped below 75 degrees I think for the first time since April. As we approach the relatively cooler season I plan to introduce some of what I consider cool weather Italian dishes in the restaurant- the cannelinni bean soup, all'amatriciana, and some of the heartier Tuscan dishes. Will let you know how the customers like it. I'm at www.peppermillofclearwater.com. Mark

Kevin, I've been away for several months and now catching up on your great dinnners. I've also been remiss by not writing my travel/food report from my trip through Basilicata and Puglia in May. I have a pretty good excuse- I now own and operate a restaurant in Clearwater, FL. (no doubt due to a moment of temporary insanity). Alas, it is not an Italian restaurant. After all, your first house isn't always your dream house. However, I have considered integrating some of your compositions and you have inspiried me to work with the chef on integrating some aspects of regional Italian dishes. It will be good practice for when I can open the little neighborhood Italian place. Let me know where to send the royalties. Mark

Just returned from a trip to Basilicata and Puglia- it's hard to make a mistake in finding a place to eat. We stopped at the recommended places, like Alle Due Corti and Casareccia in Lecce and just stumbled on other places that were equally as good. In fact, our least satisfying meal, at a small place in Matera, was better than we get here in Florida. I'll be sure to send a complete report at least of the highlights, but I highly recommend Lecce and Martina Franca as good central locations for making day trips around Puglia. We also spent a night in Trani and very highly recommend a place called Il Melograno. Kevin, I was surpised to find more seafood in Puglia than expected, albeit on the coast- particularly in Otranto (a great place!) and Trani. We did have some seafood in Alberobello as well.

I'm a big fan of Arthur Schwartz' Naples at Table. Well written, great recipes, albeit from a regional standpoint.

Kevin, My wife is a vegetarian (except for some fish, which really means she's not, but that's another story). I know you mentioned your surprise about the lack of seafood in Puglia, but did you find much on the menus for non-meat eaters? Let's save our jealousy for Alberto and Ore... "All there is to do is make salami all day." Che peccato.

We're renting a car in Naples and driving to Maratea (2 days), then to Matera (2 days) then staying just outside of Ostuni for 3 days and downtown Lecce for 3 days. From there we head to Trani for a night, then back to naples (staying last three nights in Sorrento to relax). Kevin, thanks for the offer, I'm sure I'll have questions for you and will be diligent this time about writing a review (I always seem to quit taking notes half way through the trip thinking I'll remember things...mistake). Albiston, your posts are always welcomed, and enjoyed. Mark

Kevin72, We're heading for Ostuni and Lecce for 10 days at the end of April. Thanks for your recommendations and excellent descriptions. You mentioned getting sloshed frequently (which of course is the only way to go while eating in Italy) and you mentioned Primitivo, but no other wines. Except for that and the negroamaro, malvasia and others we get here in the US, did you find any more obscure local wines that you particularly liked?

We're also planning a trip to Puglia and Basilicata in April. We are considering a stop a Taranto. Have you considered that? Does anyone have recommendations for this town?

Weather wise, November is a good time to visit Sorrento/Amalfi. I was there in November and it was partly cloudy and 70 degrees. There may be some seasonal seaside restaurants and bars closed, but most everything else will be open- and far less crowded! Sorrento is the best base in the area, in my opinion- no car needed as buses, trains and boats will take you anywhere you want to go.