Degustation

For info on Cynthia David - here's a link to a PWAC workshop that Lesley and Cynthia participated in. Lesley - did you get a lot of food writer wannabes? Cynthia David (and Lesley) info As well, here's a link to Joanne Kate's description of being a restaurant critic. Comments? Confessions of a Critic &encoded_keywords=confessions+of+a+critic&option=&start_row=2&current_row=2&start_row_offset1=&num_rows=1&search_results_start=1]http://www.globeandmail.ca/servlet....start=1

Well Nina, at least the presentation that you described seems a lot more appetizing than the sheep's head dish that my ex-boyfriend had ordered when we were in Tunisia. Picture a complete sheep's head skull presented on a plate...intact with the brain and eyeballs.

It was a pleasure to meet with everyone and the meal was a delightful start to my weekend dining adventures in NYC (to be posted in detail soon). Suvir - thank you for doing the ordering and providing an interesting running commentary to guide the experience. Sandra – many thanks for posting about the experience. You did a wonderful job as I was so busy chatting and eating rather than making chaat notes. I’m glad to have that list, as I want to use that as a basis of finding similar dishes in chaat places in Toronto. Damian – I enjoyed your entertaining comments (still looking forward to the post about the anniversary dinner!!). I think you were the first to admit that you are an egulletaholic…. Hi my name is -----…and I have been online for the last 18 hours. … but then I chimed in and confessed to being online all day and just hitting Refresh to get updates as I am working. “Chile-induced coma?!” – Damian - are you insinuating that I am actually a chili-wuss and was putting on an act!? Harrumph. Actually I have sampled that type of chili quite a few times. A friend of mine usually ordered them on the side whenever we were in Indian restaurants. Of course, the raised eyebrow look was always given when they would see that we had devoured all of them with the meal. I have never had them sauteed with the spices so that was quite tasty. I consider items like chilis, horseradish, wasabi, mustards, harrissa, etc. to be very nice accents to a meal. Though I do enjoy fiery dishes, I do not order everything spicy hot just for the capsaicin high – I just like that extra hit now and then.

Looking forward to this. I couldn't wait any longer and had to satisfy my craving last weekend. I went out for some pav bhaji, rasa vada, bhel, and rava masala dosa. Then I picked up a box of sweets - ghari, kala kand, kaji pista roll, badam burfi, mango burfi, chocolate burfi (out of curiousity - wouldn't have it again), and something that was like a dense doughnut with icing glaze. Then I bought three cans of alphonso mango pulp for mango lassis , and a package of frozen ready-to-cook aloo palak (potato and spinach) stuffed parathas. They were surprisingly good - pop onto a hot pan, watch them puff up - eat- yum.

I last made chicken biryani a while ago when I took an Indian cooking course. In this recipe, the chicken was cooked separately with yogurt, onions, and spices and then combined with the rice and spice-flavoured chicken stock to be cooked on the stove top. It was garnished with crispy fried onions, and sauteed raisins and almonds. I found it to be a bit too mushy made this way. I have been meaning to make a version by Krishna Jamal, which requires cooking the rice until it is half done. It is then drained and sprinkled with cold water to remove the stickiness. The chicken is marinated with chilies, ginger, and garlic and then cooked with a blended yogurt mixture which has a variety of spices. The chicken is then layered in a casserole dish with the rice and crispy fried onions. Saffron dissolved in water is then sprinkled on top and the cooking is completed in the oven. Suvir, does this sound like more the way you make yours? I assume this will result in a drier biryani? I like the fact that this recipe uses star anise, bay leaves, green chilis and black cardamon pods as part of the spice mixture. I may add a couple more green chilis since I like it with a bit more kick, and perhaps some coriander and mint leaves for an additional layering of flavourings.

Thanks for all the feedback. Your comments have piqued my curiosity and I will attend the event. I'll post if there's anything interesting.

Suvir, it would be an honour to meet you for lunch at Dimple and hopefully we can get others to join us as well. I was thinking that it would be great if you could be there because then I could sample some of those special chili peppers that you are so privileged to get. I love harrissa - when I visited Tunisia with my boyfriend at the time, we always asked for harrissa and they would always be amazed at these foreigners who would polish off the stuff.

Mmm - sounds right up my alley. I love fresh pita, and always prefered Middle eastern Baklava to the Greek variety. I used to work for two Lebanese brothers who would bring fresh batches of baklava to the office. Our Christmas parties were always held in their favorite Lebanese restaurant...along with belly dancers - hmm were we there for the food or the dancers.... we'll never know but the food was excellent. Is Moustache open for lunch on Sunday? If not maybe I'll see if they're open on Monday and I can have something quick before I go to a show that night. Thanks for the great suggestion - too little time - so much good food..... :confused:

Well, mind you, I also booked dinners at Gramercy Tavern, Fleur de Sel, and Bouley for lunch so I've got the other end of the spectrum covered too. But I do so enjoy eating good food in simple homecooking-type environments.

Suvir - thanks for the recommendations. Having grown up around Chinatown, I'm quite used to eating great food in humble surroundings - I know I'm there for the food, not for the chic scene. In fact I had decided to go to Dimple over Artisinal because it's that type of food I had the craving for.

After reading all the favourable discussions re: Dimple, I have decided to try it during my visit to NY over the Memorial Day weekend. If anyone is available to join me on Sat. May 25 around noon, I would be delighted to have the company (and the opportunity to sample more things! ). If not, can all you seasoned Dimple diners recommend some must try dishes?

I just received an invitation to a wine fair sponsored by the New Zealand Consul General and New Zealand Winegrowers. They will have tastings of over eighty wines from at least twenty-five wineries. The notice says that many will be featuring white wines from the 2001 vintage and reds from the 2000 and 2001 vintages. I'm not that familiar with New Zealand wines and was wondering what more knowledgeable folks have to say about them. What are some of your favorites? How do they compare to Australian wines?

Besides raita and lassis, I've used yogurt in sauces, birianis and for marinating meat. I read somewhere that yogurt in India is often made from high-fat buffalo milk. What does this taste like and how different is it from North American yogurt? Does it give a different taste to the dishes - i.e., if you made two batches of kadhi, one using buffalo milk yogurt and another using a North American brand what would be the distinguishing flavour that would tell them apart?

Pusateri's conveniently offers a variety of gourmet items under one roof. So if you don't want to run around town but want to gather a variety of interesting and quality foodstuffs for an impromptu dinner party, then this is a good option. However, you will pay for it - some of their items which are from other local provisioners, are marked up by at least 30%. For instance, Kristapsons cold smokes B.C. coho and I can get a lb for about $25 - Pusateri's sells maybe a few slices of Kristapsons coho for $10. Cakes and pastries are represented by most major and minor Toronto bakeries, and the fish department is managed by Mike's, a major fishmonger at the St. Lawrence Market. I haven't done a real reconnaissance excursion in a while, since I don't really shop there. Most items that I would want I can get in smaller specialty shops (e.g., polish delis, belgian patisseries, local butchers, etc.) and at a better price. I certainly wouldn't buy my milk and bread there and I can get better cheese selections at Alex Farm. I don't particularly like the chocolates that Pusateri's sells (Godiva and Neuhaus). I prefer to buy at local stores like the Belgian Chocolate Shop, or shops like Bernard Callebaut Chocolaterie, Simone Marie Belgian Chocolate or Swiss-Master Chocolatier. I heard that Jenn Stone who was a pastry chef at Mistura recently opened a chocolate store and I can't wait to sample her stuff - chocolates with fillings such as rosemary-infused ganache, masala chai with hints of cinnamon and saffron or white chocolate-lemon thyme....but I digress as always when chocolate is involved. I do like looking at the interesting produce they have, if nothing more than for the novelty factor - I read somewhere that they are trying to bring in square Japanese watermelons. If you wanted to serve an unusual vegetable for dinner, you know you will find something at Pusateri's. The service and quality is very good, but it has to be because it is a really discriminating crowd who shops there on a regular basis. Steve - when did you last visit Pusateri's and what did you think of it? I can't think of anything comparable in Montreal - Cinq Saisons or Westmount Square market? Maybe I'll do a comparison between Pusateri's and Whole Foods Market and report back. Anything in particular you want me to check out?

The Whole Foods Market is opening on May 1st in Hazleton Lanes in Toronto. Elaina Asselin (formerly of Abracadabra, Ellipsis, Roxborough's) is going to be the Prepared Foods Team Leader and will oversee the hot and cold prepared foods available throughout the day. I wondered what happened to her after Roxborough's closed down. I guess Whole Foods will be trying to compete with Pusateri's on the high-end retail gourmet food store category. Re: Krispy Kreme. It certainly looked like quite the feeding frenzy when they televised the opening of the Mississauga store. I can't say I'm a fan - I tried them in NY and found them to be too mushy and too sweet. I guess I just like my doughnuts to be more cake-like.

Cabrales - I must say that with my very overactive imagination, the images that would fill my head as the food was being served from such a container would certainly spoil the dinner for me. So no thank you. This reminds me of the Kraft dinner commercials where desperate hungry people prepared the noodles in a fish bowl and the dog's bowl, since those were the only containers available at the moment. But then again, it is Kraft dinner and maybe the serving vessels were appropriate in this case?

Penelope - I had seen this program where they were talking about a museum exhibition in which they included all sorts of beautiful procelain bed pans. The hostess commented on one of the pieces and said it looked like a soup tureen. The guest said that she did know of some people who used antique bed pans as serving vessels....so you are not alone.....and some people do it deliberately!!

Lesley - I'm not sure of the history of Canadian butter tarts though I have also seen recipes for English butter tarts. Most references I've seen refer to them as connected with Canadian culture. Perhaps it's a combination of the British / French (sugar pie) influences and the final concoction was the Canadian butter tart? This is the most common reference on the net. Butter Tarts ingredients for 12 servings: 1/4 c Butter 1/2 c Brown sugar; packed 1/2 ts Vanilla 1 Egg 1/2 c Raisins; or currants 12 Tart shells;lined with Preparation: "These tarts were the basis for Butter Tart Pie and Butter Tart Squares which appeared in later decades. Another variation uses maple syrup instead of corn syrup. ...Butter Tarts are uniquely Canadian. There are theories whether they were adapted from southern pecan pie, old-fashioned sugar pies, or maple syrup, backwoods or vinegar pies. Squabbles arise whether or not the tarts should be runny or not, and just how runny. Opinions differ about the use of syrup or sugar only, eggs beaten or not, currants or raisins, and how the tart pans should be filled." In bowl, cream together butter, sugar and vanilla. Beat in egg and corn syrup. Spoon raisins into tart shells; pour in the filling, two-thirds full. Bake in 375F oven for 15 to 18 minutes or until lightly browned. MAKES: 12 TARTS SOURCE: The 1st decade chapter in _A Century of Canadian Home Cooking_

Nova Scotia - fiddleheads, chanterelles, jerusalem artichokes, cranberries Alberta - Peace River honey Manitoba golden caviar Caribou Arctic char Canadian Peameal back bacon Butter tarts Nanaimo bars Beavertails

Mixed Vegetable Pakoras Prepare vegetables and toss in a bowl large enough to hold all ingredients comfortably. 2 medium/large potatoes using the large tooth grater 1 large onion, halved, laid flat and sliced into thin semi circles and halved again 1/2 package (5 oz.) fresh spinach, washed, chopped into strips same size as the onion In a separate bowl, sift the following dry ingredients: 1 cup gram or besan flour 1/2 tsp salt black pepper to taste 1 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander (or combination of ground and whole coriander seeds) 1 tsp garam masala (make your own - see below) Sprinkle sifted dry ingredients over mixed vegetables (make sure veggies are extremely dry), adding a small amount of water, 1 to 2 Tbsp at a time until a stiff but moist mixture that holds together results. You are aiming for a sticky mixture, NOT a batter. In a wok, heat 1 to 1-1/2" vegetable oil. When oil is hot and just smoking begin cooking the pakoras. Adjust the heat so that the pakoras are sizzling gently, usually a medium-high setting. If the heat is too high the action of the oil will cause them to disentegrate; if it is too low they will absorb the oil. With your fingers scoop up an egg-sized amount of the mixture, shaping it so that it holds together loosely in a rough patty of uniform thickness. This will keep the pakora from disintegrating in the oil and ensure even thorough cooking. Ease the pakora into oil and cook until browned on the first side. This will take approx. 2 minutes. Turn and cook on second side with a minimum of handling. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and drain against the side of the wok. Lift out of wok and drain on paper towels. Garam Masala Commercially packaged pre-ground garam masalas are available but not recommended because they tend to be dominated by the less expensive spices. Also, they will almost certainly be stale because the spices have been pre-ground and sitting on a shelf for who knows how long. There are many variations of garam masala mixtures as individual and regional preferences dictate the ingredients and proportions. 2 Tbsp cardamom seeds 2" cinnamon stick 1 tsp whole black cumin seeds 1 tsp whole cloves 1 tsp black peppercorns 1/3 nutmeg Grind in a spice grinder (I use a coffee bean grinder) until spices are powdery. Store in an air tight jar, away from direct sunlight and intense heat. Add 2 tsp anardana seeds for Pakistani version of gram masala. Recipes courtesy of Lynne Claire

To save Malawry from begging..... Pakoras Batter 1 cup sifted chickpea (besan) flour 1/4 tsp salt, to taste 1/4 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp ground cumin 1/4 ground pepper 1/8 cayenne pepper 1/4 tsp baking soda 3-4 Tbsp fresh coriander - chopped (optional) 1/2 tsp whole coriander seeds (optional) Sift together all the dry ingredients. While stirring continuously, slowly add approx. 3/4 cup water until you have a batter that is thick but still retains a slightly fluid consistency. A thick batter will produce a "bready" pakora casing rather than a light crispy casing. Prepare the vegetables for dipping. Recommended veggies are: potatoes and/or sweet potatoes cut in 1/8" slices caulifower flowerettes wedges of spanish onion 1/4" eggplant slices green pepper wedges carrots cut extremely thinly (Mushrooms and zucchini tend to be too watery) Heat enough oil in a wok to allow the pakoras to deep fry, approx. 2-3 inches. The oil should be heated over a medium heat. Juggle your heat setting so that the pakoras sizzle in the oil, browning evenly and taking between 4-7 minutes to cook thoroughly. Some vegetables will obviously cook through much faster than others. Dip a piece of vegetable in the batter and allow most of the excess batter to drip off. Drop into the hot oil. Check the pakoras frequently, turning with a slotted spoon. When they are evenly browned, remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately. Do not attempt to keep them warm in the oven as they will simply turn limp and unappealing. Note: Wipe up chickpea batter immediately as it dries like cement. Recipe courtesy of Lynne Claire

Hi Cabrales, Unfortunately, my Dad and I live in different cities so we don't get together too often. There's also a language barrier so it's difficult to discuss things. When I visit, my Dad goes the whole hog and prepares lots of great dishes which is really wonderful. He and I also share similar food tastes - hot and spicy and enjoying a great variety of foodstuffs my siblings wouldn't touch. I often hang around him when he's cooking so I can pick up things. I remember helping out by cooking the turkey over the holidays one year in my parents' kitchen, but my Dad kept on hovering so much it made me nervous. I accidently pierced the bird, while flipping it and all the juices ran out, making it quite dry. He usually claims that he just wants to show me, but eventually ends up doing it. Since he's older now, he doesn't do that as much. This last Christmas dinner, along with my parents' dishes, my contribution was a Potato, leek, guyere gratin; and desserts - double chocolate cake with mocha buttercream, rugulach, lemon butter bars, brutti ma buoni, and chocolate truffles. Since there were literally too many cooks in the kitchen in this family affair, I had to either bake late into the night or cook around my mom and dad doing as they were doing their mise-en-place. No way would I set foot in the kitchen while my Dad was cooking; when he's on a roll, he's on a roll. You will note that the above dishes are things my Dad would never do, and I have never tried making oriental dishes for him. He does praise my dishes in front of the family when we sit down to eat. Thus I want to get better at making chinese buns to show him I actually learned something from him - can't show up with an inferior product...but gosh darn it - I'm just not a bread person!!

If you like I can type out the recipes and e-mail them to you...unless there is an interest and I can post them.

There's this restaurant called Accolade located in the Crowne Plaza hotel in Toronto. The original premise was based on having only tasting menus without menus (I think Rob Feenie helped with the original idea and Ned Bell took over as chef. Bell then left for Senses and Michael Potter took over). The diners can choose from 4, 6 or 8 courses and whether they want the wine pairings. The diner only gets to warn the chef of any allergies or dietary constraints. If there are two diners, they would get two totally different tasting menus. When I got around to trying it, they actually had menus and the maitre d' explained that guests preferred choosing the tasting menu. So the menu had a table d'hote consisting of four courses, while the seafood tasting menu, the vegetarian tasting menu and the chef's tasting menu were all six courses but can be bumped to eight courses (extra dessert and fabulous cheese selection). My fellow foodie and I requested that we each have a different eight course tasting menu with matching wines - everything up to chef's discretion. They were happy to oblige, and they said it was easier for chef to do this. Since the menus were different we also had two different types of wine with each course. When we returned the second time, they had made another change. The menu this time had categories of listed items: Appetizers; Fish, Seafood and Shellfish; Meat, Poultry and Game; Desserts. From that you could prepare your own tasting menu with the price based upon the 3, 4, or 5 courses. There was also the Chef's Selection tasting menu. We again opted to have chef develop two different 8 course tasting menus with the wine pairings. I don't know if it was because Potter was not there the second time but the quality and creativity was definitely superior the first time. I hesitate to try it again because who knows what it will evolve to. I suspect the restaurant was trying hard to cater to the hotel clientele who may prefer a more conventional approach to dining.

Hi Stellabella, I'm not an expert but this is what I had learned when I dabbled in an Indian cooking class. Chickpea flour is also known as besan flour. Gram flour is flour ground from the gram legume and is similar to and interchangeable with besan flour. However, I've never used gram flour. I learnt two methods for making pakoras. The first one uses chickpea flour and spices to make a batter to coat the sliced vegetables. The goal is to try to get a slightly fluid consistency as a thick batter would produce a 'bready" pakora. The second method only uses potatoes, onions, and spinach that is combined with a sticky mixture of gram or besan flour and spices. The potatoes are grated, the onions are sliced into thin semi-circles and halved again, and the spinach is chopped into strips the same size as the onion. The flour and the spices are sifted over the vegetables and a tbsp or two of water is added to make a stiff and moist mixture - but NOT a batter. Using your hands, form loosely shaped patties from the mixture and then deep fry. I prefer the second method as they are lighter and more delicate.