
tripe
legacy participant-
Posts
26 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Recent Profile Visitors
669 profile views
-
I'm running away from this one as all three chefs that you mention I enjoy eating their food. I think we shouldn't always have to assesss someopnes ability in detail.
-
I suspect not. But if he did and gave a fraction of what he gave me to someone else then we would all benefit
-
Your education, your influences, etc.
tripe replied to a topic in eGullet Q&A with British Chef Henry Harris
I never really thought of working in France . When I started my apprenticeship with Simon Hopkinson there seemd no need to go elsewhere as his quest for perfection was all consuming. Teaming this up with being introduced to the works of Richard Olney by SH I felt that I was learning about all of France and not just the one region one would be working in. Holidays anda substantial amount of eating introduced meb to the ingredients that I could not get in the UK and good traing made me understand how one achieved the finished dish. My visit to Chez Panisse was thje briefest but revelatory. Access to local farms, markets and other small producers was such an important part of Chez Panisse and Alice Waters set this very much as one of the most important principles tyhat we should be reminded of, long before it made it to the East Coast let alone English cities -
many yes, as it is an easy period to access. I have seen little evidenc of other eras
-
Yes often, when you have a good brigade to work who bring a wealth of experience with them it would be foolish not to absorb some of their knowledge. As to what I learnt from them I can't currently remember
-
possibly veryt true but it wouldn't be fare to assess their ability when I have not eaten thefruits of their chemistry
-
it was educational
-
Yes I do eat tripe and in healthy quantities. It needs to be imported from France as most English tripe can only be bought overcooked and bleached A particular favourite is tablier de sapeur aka firemans apron. It is a sheet of braised tripe that is egg and breadcrumbed and then fried and served with Bearnaise sauce and mustard. Madrid style with chorizo, tomato etc is also very good. In dim sum restaurants the little platres of tripe with black beans and chilli are very good indeed, also chickens feet are very good this way at Racine when it is on the menu I can sell 5 to 10 portions a day
-
Fay Maschler; Every restaurant is subjected to an honest and intensive assessment that brings the place to life and informs you exactly what your experience is likely to be. Her enjoyment of the craft of cooking and the skill involved along with her pleasure of eating make her reviews stand out. Johnathan Meades; He brings the whole world into his pieces of prose using often incomprehensible words to many, unless armed with a Thesaurus. But along with insightful and accurate writing he shows what a joy the English language is. The main critic for the majority of broadsheets have these jobs because they are good writers who understand restaurants.
-
A restaurant is a business and while it exists it has to make money. Sadly the costs of running a restaurant in the city mean that you have to maximise the resources available to you, namely tables. We do turn some tables, probably about 25% and this usually comes about when you have a late booking and someone else is prepared to comer early and not hang about!
-
There can be only one Heston
-
Most of the names you mentioned apart from Matthew didn't actually stay at Bibendum that long. It was a special time, but as for being a prima donna, there wasn't time as I was too busy enforcing Simons iron will. As for a special time it was the three years before with Simon at Hilaire that were the most precious. We did know we were doing something special but we enjoyed it for the moment rather than preening.
-
The right time, the right place.
tripe replied to a topic in eGullet Q&A with British Chef Henry Harris
Yes we have been very lucky. But I also think that the food I am cooking is what people find very accessible and comfortable. They have missed. Wher I am lucky is that people want to eat what I am happiest cooking -
It certainly helps with relations front and back of house, normally to the good. It makes a chef more tolerant as you then know what the poor soul dealing with the recalcitrant diner is going through, or the woman who can't cope with the whole fish smiling at her. It doesn't always work with senior floor staff as it is easier to spot their mistakes and thje perceived criticism however well intentioned is invariably poorly received. From an executive pioint of view it is invaluable as you understand all aspects of the business better.
-
He is without a doubt the greatest cook this country has raised. He has the best understanding of food and its preparation. He has an instinct that enables him to breing ingtredients together for the greates of effect and more importantly he knows better than anyone when to stop.