Rebel Rose

Vines do have a memory, albeit a very slow one. Part of the challenge of viticulture is to anticipate long term weather conditions when pruning, watering, or fertilizing and only adjust as necessary in order to fool the vineyard into thinking it is enjoying an optimum year, so the vines will remain in good health and balanced. At this point, the rain is mainly important for replenishing our water tables and irrigation ponds. Winter/spring rains generally stop by late April/mid May, so we count on getting the bulk of our vintage water in the months from October to March. Our well water was beginning to smell sulfurous, which is a sign that the water table is getting low. As the vines are dormant this time of year, the cold has not affected them (we hope) but I have heard reports of some vines in the north counties bursting as accumulated moisture in the trunks expanded with freezing temperatures. More of an occasional anomaly, I understand, and not widespread. We are almost done pruning, but taking our time yet. We don't want the vines to bud out until danger of hard frost is past. However, we are tucked into the hills where frost pockets exist, and our vineyard is planted to syrah and zinfandel. Growers on maritime sites in the Monterey/Santa Barbara areas with white varieties and pinot noir generally complete pruning earlier than we do. Timing is critical, as growers want to get the vines past hard frosts before budding, and then ideally flowering after hard spring storms, as rain and wind interfere with pollination. But you also want to get the vines past delicate spring growth before hot weather arrives, typically in May. It's a dance with the bitch goddess Weather, the waltz starts now. We'll see how she treats us in 2007.

It's time once again to begin our annual eGullet vintage wine blog. I hope that we'll enjoy posts from wineries throughout California, and weather/wineamking updates from members living in wine country. I'd also be delighted if our European, African and Australian members keep us updated on harvest weather and winemaking--it's my goal to eventually have several vintage threads happening at once! For previous years' vintage blogs, see the wine blogs listed above in our list of Wine 101 threads. **************************************** Our 2007 California vintage starts off cry and crispy, with no rain and record low temperatures. January is normally a stormy month with slamming Pacific storms and plenty of rainfall. But contrary to schedule, this year we have had no rainfall and freezer-burn temperatures. This is supposed to be California, for Pete's sake! Twelve degree nights? Yikes. One morning in January as we were taking the kid to school, the outside temperature registered at 16 degrees. Broken pipes and busted well housings and gauges kept plumbing and drilling firms backlogged, and vineyard owners biting their knuckles. Yesterday, Dan and I met in the creekside wine barn to barrel sample our spring releases. It's my job to taste each wine or blend and write the notes that will become back labels, tasting notes, and marketing materials. But it was 48 degrees in the wine barn, and the wines were very, very cold. This is a writing exercise which is demanding under the best of circumstances, as I have to anticipate how bottling, bottle shock, and bottle age will affect the finished flavors, and with the wines so cold I was definitely handicapped. It didn't help that Dan was looking over my shoulder and saying, "Are you done yet?" as I attempted to warm each wine sample in my hands like a baby chick. He'll be lucky if the wine labels don't say . . . "tastes . . . refreshing." Today we are enjoying a warm front and the first flush of rain. Cover crops are sprouting and although there is still moisture in the soil from December, it's down deep, so the tiny roots are grateful for this refresher. Let me know if you have any questions!

The market in New York is so global that I don't know if New Yorkers will notice much a difference, but I can tell you that it is VERY exciting news for small California producers. I have retailers in New York begging for wine, but although we currently have two boutique distributors interested in carrying them, they are always so slow to order, that by the time they've noodled out what they want, the wines are sold out. Then we have to start the whole courtship all over again with the next releases, send them samples, wait wait and wait . . . oops, too late again. With this process, distributors won't need to commit financially to a pallet of wine (56 cases) at a time, and we won't need to go through the laborious process of (hopefully) convincing east coast salespeople that "yes, you can sell zinfandel in New York." Tom Wark at the Fermentation weblog is Inertia's PR consultant, and I am sure he will keep us up to date on all the good news regarding this new technology.

Thanks for joining us, Natalie. Speaking of "doing," I also really enjoyed the story of your mishaps while disgorging Champagne. Please feel free to answer questions after you have returned and rested up! How many countries will your book be available in? Now, I have to ask . . . you're tasting wine during a seminar with Georg Riedel (of Riedel stemware fame), and somehow you manage to find out that he's wearing a suit "made from Italian fabric by a Viennese tailor." How exactly did you find that out? Did you just pipe up between the chardonnay and the cabernet samples and outright ask him? You said he's even planned the wines to be served at his own funeral. I certainly hope at the age of 54 that he's not planning on having that party anytime soon. Do you know which wines they are?

I finally broke down and read this book by Rex Pickett. During the first few chapters my reaction was 'ho-hum, it's just like the movie." But after a few chapters, as relationships deepened, I really began to get into it. Miles and Jack seem to be about as different as they can be, but like a lot of friendships, they need each other . . . they complement each other. Throughout their trials on the road trip they begin to open up to each other more and more, and they learn to smooth over the rough spots with humor and faith in each other. Jack is as randy as his movie character, but his fiance is no blushing rose either, and there's a generous, faithful side to Jack in the book that is not portrayed in the movie. That being said, they screw up alot, and Jack's accumulation of hilarious injuries were abbreviated in the movie plot. He's not looking too good going into his wedding . . . and then there's the psychotic boar-hunting chauffeur, who's not even featured in the movie. There is a lot of 'road trip' language--which at first I found annoying (being a lady and all ), but after a while it became part of the natural rhythm between Jack and Miles. I particularly liked the ending, where Miles finally agrees to attend Jack's wedding reception in Paso Robles, and Maya shows up in all her radiance. They decide to blow off the reception, and Maya says, "I know a few places in Paso Robles . . . "

I forgot to add that Natalie is a member here at eGullet, and I am sure she will be pleased to drop in and answer any questions we may have! Congratulations, Natalie, on the publication of your book. How long did it take you to write it? How did you choose the material and chapters for the book?

Hi, Mark, I believe there are federal and state licensing requirements, depending on where you plan to source your wines and where you plan to sell them. In addition to Craig's advice, you should check with your local Alcohol Beverage Control (ABC, we call them in shorthand, whatever their local alphabet variation may be). A license to bring something into the US is not the same as a license to sell it . . . I don't know why . . . But before you let someone charge you several hundred dollars for an importers' license, you should also inquire about your rights regarding reselling the wine. And of course, there's the warehousing, insurance, etc. To register for SKU's, (last time I checked?) was about $800 for the basic registration, and about $200 per label. My memory may be faulty on the per-label cost. It's a daunting endeavor!

Red, White, and Drunk All Over, by Natalie MacLean, author of the award-winning wine newsletter, Nat Decants I really tried hard not to finish this book. An odd thing to say, I suppose, but I thought it would be more fun to post some blurbs from the first few chapters, encourage other members to get the book, and then read it together. But like a box of open chocolates, it sucked me in and before I knew it, I had finished the whole thing. Natalie MacLean won me over completely in chapter one, The Good Earth, as she describes touring the caves and tunnels of Domaine LeFlaive in Puligny-Montrachet with Madame Anne-Claude LeFlaive. No nonsense about swirling aromas and eclectic flavors . . . “As we pass each dark tunnel and room, I’m like a well-trained rat in a science maze experiment, looking for an upended barrel with a bottle on top of it. At last we get to it: four open bottles and several wineglasses.” MacLean opens her book with tours of Domaine LeFlaive and lunch with the formidable Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy, “La Tigresse” (whose rambunctious dogs set off the cellar alarms while Madame’s oven smokes up the house.) Over luncheon, MacLean asks Bize-Leroy how long her Burgundy productions should be aged. Her face darkens. “Who knows?” she snaps. “Certainly, the critics don’t. How can they predict when to drink my wine, when even I can’t? They’re making it up. C’est terrible! And their descriptions—filled with every silly berry on the planet!” We both shake our heads grimly over the stupidity of wine writers. “. . . as the smoke continues to stream from the oven, she pours her 2001 Corton-Charlemagne, a gorgeous chardonnay with concentrated mineral depth and spicy pear notes . . . When my wine is gone, I sniff the empty glass pathetically.” As MacLean walks us through these legendary vineyards and caves, she stops to explain the basics of wine production and viticulture in terms that readers at any level can happily imbibe. Her sense of humor is honest, refreshing, and self-effacing. It’s like traveling through Europe with a sister who is a passionate wine geek. She pauses to explain each meaning and nuance, while challenging her know-it-all sibling with humorous portraits of legendary winemakers and quirky historical insights. For instance, MacLean takes us along on her first tour of the caves and tunnels beneath Pommery in Reims, with guide Marianne Barbier . . . “During the wars, the caves belonging to Pommery and other winemakers became refuges, housing sleeping quarters, hospitals, schools, churches, and even a theater. “Even during the bombing, they continued to pick the grapes because they had to earn a living,” Barbier tells me. “The men had gone off to war, so it was the women and children which crawled out between the vines—many of them died.” She points to a pile of bottles from the early 1940s. “The blood of France is in this wine.” From Randall Grahm’s eccentricities to death threats against wine critic Robert Parker, MacLean’s storytelling radar focuses on the weird and humorous . . . “After Parker called [Chateau Cheval Blanc] “a disappointment,” the manager invited him to visit the chateau and retaste the wine. But when Parker entered the front door, the manager’s dog, a fox terrier, attacked the critic—biting his leg hard enough to make it bleed, while the other man stood by and watched. Parker asked for a bandage, the manager instead handed him a copy of the Wine Advocate.” Undercover operations as a wine store clerk and restaurant sommelier were inspired by her own personal experiences. Once, while traveling alone in Europe, she decided to celebrate her birthday by ordering a special half-bottle of a favorite wine. The $150 half-bottle was corked, ruined, and when she worked up the courage to inquire about that, the sommelier’s response was so brutal, it lead to a feminine meltdown that may have launched one of the most sympathetic wine list and wine service voices writing today. Natalie MacLean’s writing makes me want to pack a suitcase and order a flight ticket for anywhere she plans to go. Red, White, and Drunk All Over

Thanks, Brad! We've been so busy with harvest that mostly we've been drinking Beer, but I hope to crack open a bottle of something interesting soon!

I can't wait to try this recipe, bills. (I also really enjoy the way you wrote it!) I was already looking forward to visiting our farmers' market next Saturday, and now I'm on a special quest for chanterelles.

So . . . you can buy 12. Or 24. but not 18. And if you want to pick up some beer for Monday Night (or Sunday Night) football, you can buy unlimited quantities of swill, but if you want a special 6 pack of Idaho microbrew to serve with your homemade guacamole and Bourdain-style con carne, you MUST buy at least 24 bottles. Wow.

I thought the show was great! Loved the shirt changeups. But mostly I loved Chris' smile and disarming personality. I know one police officer reasonably well, and I've been on a ride-along (scary experience ). My friend is not your typical TV cop. He's very reassuring, strong, capable, calm . . . even in a scary situation. The kind of guy you would pour your heart out to. So . . . I think Chris' background has influenced the show more than most of us probably realize. He makes people feel comfortable, even in front of bright lights and big camera lenses. I thought his 'interviewees' were far more comfortable with him than I have ever seen on a network food show. His smile and attitude are infectious. I LOVED the concept of grinching two top chefs as 'informers.' (Too bad about the car, but you looked good! ) I didn't mind the squished presentation at all. In fact, I thought the show was lively. Only five spots in an entire city? All with different shirts? Bring it on!

I didn't know that! I wonder what the logic is for that? Maybe, highly disposable income persons (DIPS) are less likely to get drunk by buying a case, than a dad who wants to wash his car while consuming a six-pack? I can just see the state motto . . . "Buy more, Be responsible."

Beginning October 30, eGullet member Jon Bonne will be the new Wine Editor at the San Francisco Chronicle! Welcome, Jon! I look forward to your coverage and reviews of the California wine scene. I've also received emails from the SF Chronicle stating that they are increasing their Friday wine section.

I just thought of a few more to add to my first list. Dan frequently recognizes aromas of chocolate and coffee in some reds, which he finds very appropriate and pleasant in wine. But he seldom, almost never, consumes either. I like the aroma of tea, especially in zinfandel, but hate to drink the stuff!

John, would you be willing to order a bottle and try it soon, so we can compare thoughts? Part of my quest for good sangiovese is my own personal obsession, and part of it is to learn more about the clones planted here and how to define my style as a producer. I make a small quantity of sangiovese every 2 years under my own label, a limited production of 120-200 cases which is sold primarily to about 6 stores.

You're absolutely right. Winemakers and winery owners can't help it, the energy and excitement and optimism of crush always overwhelms us with optimism. And even if one has reservations about the vintage, when everyone around you is gushing about the wondrous fruit and balance and flavors, who wants to be the only voice saying, "well, I don't know about this vintage . . . we're not getting very fruit! " From a journalistic perspective, however, I am amazed and disheartened by the gullibility of the press. Every year they pick up the harvest press releases and every year they regurgitate reports about how this is the best vintage ever. It would be refreshing to read some reports from writers who have seriously followed the vintage from February on, and who take the time to call smaller growers about their prospects for selling their fruit. That's where you'll find the real stories, the concerns, the struggles--not from the PR departments of large wineries.

Strnagely I agree with both of you on this one. I think many people often confuse over-oaked character for elegance, but it doesn't take long before even intermediate wine geeks object to overuse of oak. Too much oak or strong oak character dominates the fruit, destroys the food-friendly nature of wine, and ruins its chances of longevity. Occasionally there are wines in which the oak seems dominant in the wine's youth, and that dominance fades with time, with the oak becoming more of a framework for a fruit. In my experience, however, this only happens successfully with leaner wines that have "high fruit" and plenty of acidity to balance the heavier flavors and mouthfeel that oak imparts. Again, in my experience only, wines that are voluptuous and fleshy in their youth, with purple and bonbon flavors and abundant oak, will only become Married With Children as they age. I do hope the Leonetti is not that style. I am eagerly seeking fine sangiovese produced on the west coast, as I feel it is an underappreciated grape in the New World, and I firmly believe we have some excellent sites for the varietal. Plus, I love the way it pairs with food. I'm looking forward to trying the Leonetti, and keeping my fingers crossed.

John, thank you for recommending that interview. I had skipped reading it at the time because I was getting tired of the subject of Mondovino, but it’s actually, as you say, a very detailed and enlightening visit with Rolland. Rolland comes across as open, personable and much more humble than usual. It’s a long piece, but in summary he describes his value as primarily attending to details in the vineyard—encouraging owners to green harvest, if necessary, use less fertilizer, seek balance, use specific types of trellising, etc. He claims to have brought innovation to the California wine industry in the early 1990’s: His clients also seem to appreciate his feedback on potential blends, but Rolland says he does not dictate a style, he only encourages his clients not to discard any lots that initially seem disappointing until they have been trialed in a blend. He also talks for some length about how all wines are improved, cleaner today, and that as a result, younger wines will not show as much individuality—but that in 10 years or so well-crafted wines will definitely show terroir, and it would be impossible at that age to confuse a Bordeaux with a California wine. He also discussed a trend toward picking riper fruit, and not just in California, Interesting comment, for the most part, although perhaps his categorization of the “U.S.” as hot was a bit hasty . . . I also enjoyed this part: Given the thoughtful and informative context of the Tanzer interview, I get the impression that Rolland is just a hardworking, dedicated, knowledgeable but Franco-centric consultant with a healthy sense of humor and the sort of Gallic self-supremacy that Americans find so confusing, but the French see as perfectly normal.

I hesitate to impose. I don't ask for a winery discount outside of my immediate region . . . but will gladly accept one when offered.

Eric Asimov of the NY Times: Satan or Savior: Setting the Grape Standard Overall, I thought the piece balanced and actually leaning toward Rolland. A refreshing counterpoint to the Mondovino caricature. I have questions, though, about this part: Yes, the ability to taste and envision is something that's learned. But only one man in the world can know how one tiny vineyard in Napa should be harvested correctly? Four visits a year? Assuming they are evenly spaced, that's one visit while the vines are dormant, two during the growing season, and one during or just after harvest. Rolland is consulting around the world, for vineyards based on volcanic soils, calcareous soils, soils with blocked drainage, soils with too much drainage . . . I'd like to hear someone, anyone, say exactly what it is that was specifically illuminating about Mr. Rolland's visit. In what way did he offer advice to his clients that was significantly different than what any local viti/viniculturist would have offered? I find it difficult to believe that Scotty beams him down, he imparts specific site knowledge beyond the ken of our barbaric time, and departs again in a beam of light headed for Chile . . . Certainly Mr. Rolland has extremely powerful clients. But I just don't see any journalistic proof that Rolland advises his clients on a basis of terroir. Perhaps he is the Andre Tchelistcheff of our time. But why?

Oh dear, I forgot to specify that I meant things one would actually have in one's pantry. But no matter! Carry on, and if you seek inspiration, there's our 2005 discussion on nasty things, Terrible terms. (You might want to specify whether or not you have these items in your pantry on a regular basis.)

You guys are the best! I just snagged one online from the Wine Cask, along with a half-bottle of Seghesio sangiovese. The F&H was a little extreme, especially since I know what the UPS wine contract prices really are . . . but that's another story for another day. I'm really looking forward to trying this. Thanks!

I'm struggling with a braising recipe tonight that I, personally, feel would benefit from the addition of some star anise or clove. But no, Dan hates that stuff, among other barky spices. Here's our list of things we would give a "plus" to if it were in wine aroma or flavor, but that Dan would never allow to pass his lips: Cloves Cinnamon Cola Star anise Cardamom Nutmeg What's on your list?

Wow. I love sangiovese, and I was very interested in trying Leonetti's Walla Walla version. But $55 for a single bottle of Washington sangiovese? Not only that, but the recent mailer I received wants me to take 2.5 cases of wine for a total ticket of $2175, in order to get 3 bottles of sangiovese. Ooh-la. Has anyone seen a California 100% sangiovese that costs more than this?