Rebel Rose

A live video of biodynamic winemaker Nicholas Joly at Organic Wine and Martini Bar. Enjoy.

The re-enactment of the 1976 Paris tasting has run into some snags. The US wineries that won the original tasting have opted not to participate, stating that they cannot "spare" any of their annual 30,000 case production for the tasting. And the French, well the French are adamant that the French wines not be tasted blind, nor in the same flight as US wines. Mike Grgich, winemaker for the winning Chateau Montelana chardonnay and owner James Barrett are also at odds; Barrett refuses to attend if Grgich is invited. Wall Street Journal: Coq au vin, anyone?

It seems this topic is heating up . . . Current article in the Wine Enthusiast, Wines on Steroids: However, on April 25th, Robert Parker posted an interesting list of alcohols from wines that he had lab-tested for accuracy. This list demonstrates that not all wines in the 1970s were gentle 12% quaffers--at 14+% they were pretty hefty, although certainly not the 15% and 16% wines that can be found today. At the recent conference on terroir at U.C. Davis, one of the reasons put forth for higher alcohols is the so-called emergence of super-rootstocks. (Warning: plug for my blog) I address the issue in a post on The Frankenvine Theory. What do you think is the reason for the apparent rise in alcohol in California wines—is it due to critics’ scores? Is it due to modern technology, allowing winemakers to pick very late and then de-alcoholize the finished wine? Is it a plot on the part of wineries to let the fruit hang until dehydrated, thereby reducing the weight of the grapes so they can cheat vineyard owners on the tonnage price?

Well, I think some of the key words here are "smoked" and "Texas-style." I'm guessing from these hints that the sausage may be pretty spicy and herbal, might even include sun-dried tomatoes. And the brisket and ribs may have a spicy tomato/brown sugar/poblano sauce, or a chile/mustard/pepper rub--not to mention the flavors that slow smoking impart. And what will the side dishes be? Slow-cooked pinto beans with smoked hamhocks and poblano, perhaps? Corn on the cob with a dusting of chili powder? hazardnc, can you tell us a little more about how the meats will be prepared, and what will be served with them?

I second the beer! But also, if your guests are from Washington, I agree that a moderate-bodied shiraz/syrah would go well with the smoky flavors, particularly if your sausage has any anise or pepper in it. Let us know how the party goes!

Hmm, it's just come to my attention that for $99 you can buy an aroma kit of really disgusting wine odors. Comes complete with a booklet explaining how and why these aromas occur. I like the part about "This kit is often used by wineries to test wines for faults . . ." Le Nez du Vin

I found links to distributors that carry some Chateau les Crostes wines on wine-searcher.com. Although they are not what you are looking for, these firms may be able to direct you to a retail source that does have the wine. Good luck! PS. This link may not work because I have a "Pro" account, but you can visit wine-searcher.com for free and just type in the phrase 'Chateau les Crostes.'

Well, yes, but it is sometimes difficult to get a new thread going...I suggested 'Cheese' a couple of years ago, and was underwhelmed by the response. Best chuckle I've had all day. Took me a minute, though.

My, that will be something to look forward to! Do you plan on opening another bottle soon?

I agree that younger wines benefit more from breathing, although some older wines, depending on their original tannins and acidity, also blossom with some air. Another reason for letting older wines, especially French productions, breathe for an hour or more is that they have natural populations of Brettanomyces bacteria that overwhelm the wine's flavor; sometimes with air the Brett aromas fade a little and allow the wine's profile to shine through. However, there are many older wines--especially older than 20 years--that simply turn to sawdust after half an hour. It also depends on one's expectations. We have a dear family friend who is always bringing us 'older' red wines to drink. He loves them and raves about their 'gentility' and 'integration.' And indeed, they taste like forest leaves, dust, faded cedar, tobacco, and/or dried herbs. But no fruit. (However, he selects wines that received 'gold medals' in American competitions--not through careful study of wines with a reputation for longevity.) So . . . Friend loves them; I find them interesting; my SO (a winemaker) has begun to resent being constantly placed in a social situation where he is expected to compliment them, and now says simply, "Tastes old."

I was simply throwing out some examples. If I tried to list all the ways that wines can show terroir, I'd need a few pages. Ouch. Careful with the generalizations, please. Actually, I have read Grahm's speech through several times. And in fact, I have just performed sensitive crystallization trials on our wines with the help of soil scientist Dr. Tom Rice. As far as I know, I am the first person to have attempted to replicate Grahm's efforts, and as Grahm would not release slides of his crystals, my petris will be the first cyrstallization trials to be published on the internet. Watch for the article sometime later this week on Appellation America. Here is a preview: We did four pairs of samples--two wines or vintages from each of four vineyards. 2003 Hansen Cabernet 2004 Hansen Viognier 2002 Alto Pomar (a Rhone blend from Alto Pomar Vineyard) 2003 Alto Pomar 2004 Starr Ranch Roussanne 2004 Starr Ranch Syrah 2003 Dove Pond Zinfandel Port 2002 Dove Pond Syrah These are samples I had on hand, and what we went with during this first trial, which was, frankly, just for fun, and to see if the process worked at all. The results were . . . interesting, and we have decided to have another petri party soon to perform more trials. This is a control sample of copper chloride solution mixed with filtered water: 2003 Alto Pomar 2002 Dove Pond Syrah The two Alto Pomar wines have the most similarities--both have very raised, but somewhat disorganized green crystals. The entire set with comments from the vineyard owners will be published in a few days.

There has been a lot of discussion in the wine industry about wines that are manipulated into a popular and predictable candied cherry and chocolate profile, as opposed to wines that might have cool weather acidity and herbal, mineral, or earthy notes that reflect terroir and vintage. Grahm's pontifications should be taken with a grain of coarse sea salt, but he generally hides some gems of deep experience in his quirky essays, and he's always entertaining!

Bordeaux winemakers reveal what's in the bottle The article lists about a dozen labels that will be changing to varietal listings this year. Given that the ultra-premiums will not be affected, anyone care to place bets (for virtual M&Ms) on which houses will be switching to or including varietals?

Will, is your vineyard budding out yet? We have leaflets in the syrah. The zin is still in the hard bud stage.

The San Francisco Chronicle features a trilogy of articles this week on higher alc. wines . . . Body heat: Rising alcohol levels change wines' taste Ssh! Vintners turn down the heat quietly Booze may be boosted by vines' roots How do you feel about de-alcoholized wine? Do you think that late picked fruit can be manipulated into tasting perfect? Or does manipulation overshoot the 'sweet spot'?

Mayfair Cellars collapses There seems to be more dishonesty, theft, embezzlement and fraud in the wine world than ever before. I wonder why that is?

Shipping news means more choices for consumers, but some winemakers unhappy , by Bill Daley of the Chicago Tribune (also an eGullet Society member) . . . The link takes us to the Arizona Republic, and Bill's comments here reminded me that we have wine club members in Arizona who have formed a loose alliance--several members hire vans and SUV's and once a year they caravan to wine country together, fill up the vans and head back, where they share the wine purchases with other friends who could not get away. These people all have healthy disposable incomes, but don't you think that would be a nice business? Sort of a personal shopper for wine . . .

These are vine times for fine Bordeaux Here's a well written article on affordable (drink or cellar) Bordeaux generally available in the US. The tasting notes are on recent vintages, not 2005. I don't know about availability in the UK, Bill, but if these wines can be found from distributors in the midwest, they should be available in your area as well . . .

Instead of a sit-down tasting, charity events often feature a "grand tasting" with tables placed around the perimeter of a large room, and each table hosted by a local winery. You could invited BC and Washington wineries to pour at your event--that way you get the wine donated and have a variety of knowledgeable people also donating their time to explain their wines, a product they know very well. It's much more casual and unintimidating than a formal taste-through. You might also ask a local restaurant to do a fabulous cheese and bread spread. If you decide to go this route, make sure the wineries have large enough tables--six feet per winery is good, eight is better. Rent dark colored linens--not white. Provide plastic water pitchers and pour pots that do not look like water pitchers! Have volunteer staff to check and dump the pour pots, deliver ice, and refill water pitchers. If there is enough room in your venue, you could also set up a silent auction on long tables in the center of room, so people can walk around the display and bid on items. You will want your auction island to be 2 tables wide, so there is enough room to display lots and place bidding sheets and pens near each lot. Good luck with your event!

It's not too late. I just get impatient! I'm going to start some seeds as well. Let me know by PM or email when you are ready to swap seeds or starts. Sunshine, I want some sunshine, dangit!

I haven't thought about different blossom flavors, but I like to plant a selection of squash and pumpkin, because I like the larger blossoms for stuffing. I failed to get my own tomato starts going in the greenhouse this year, so I'll be relying on tomato plants to get my garden started this year. Any recommendations for local tomato plants? Someone who will ship?

Women have made impressive inroads into the wine industry, but there are still crumbling edifices of the old boy network guarding the inner sanctum. There is a distributorship in Los Angeles that will not hire women. No women. Ever. A few of the women who applied there now work for my boutique distributor and are doing a great job for us. My boutique distributor, who is a woman, also hired a gentleman of color, which caused a ripple effect of gasping and gossip among our competitors, as I just found out on Saturday. I was shocked, and frankly, amused that in a town as trendy as LA, where handsome and talented non-Caucasian actors are adored, there would be any reaction at all to having a non-C sales rep. That is how antiquated and entrenched the distributors are. So the real point of all this is that you can imagine how distributors and the spirits consortiums (which often own large wineries) view women consumers. What? Women are buying 55% of the wine out there? Shit, we're out of pink wine! Give them some pink labels and flowers and crap, quick!

Yes, Gabrielle, welcome! I hope you will find topics and information here of benefit to your membership. I'm also curious about your own wine release!

Jim, your wine notes always make me feel as though I am also tasting the wine and enjoying your company. And a 1999 pinot with still youthful, wild berry flavors? Impressive. Plus, this sounds exactly like the style of pinot noir I enjoy. Except I don't have any. What do they call that, again?

This week the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America released a copy of a speech made to Wholesalers group by President and CEO Juanita Duggan. In the first two-thirds of her speech, Duggan does a very good job of congratulating the wholesalers on their contributions to the wine and spirits and industry, and for the progress that the industry has made on all levels in the last few decades. But toward the end of her speech, she suggests wholesalers are responsible for the 'rise of the American chef' and that deregulation (i.e. the freedom to not use a distributor if a winery so chooses) will destroy the underpinnings of America.