bcm

Compare Emeril and Keller? Not as far fetched as you may think. Years ago (before Food Network) I was invited to sit at the chef's table at Emeril's and watched as he patiently showed a young J & W grad on his first night in the kitchen exactly how he wanted the tomatoes sliced. I understand that young man went on to become either chef or sous in Las Vegas. I think this shows a lot about the selection and training of people in the Lagasse organization. In addition, on a earlier visit, Emeril did a special tasting menu for us - and came out and described each dish. That meal would probably rate as my third favorite ever - after the truffle degustation at the original Ducasse in Paris and a special tasting menu done for us at the French Laundary.

Info on sites varies as to location of Montclair market. Rosie, you were there - were you at Walnut station or South Fullerton"?

Goya is in Secaucus. Why not try contacting them directly?

Many are missed but the most lamented is Yves, formerly of Montclair. Unfortunately, I've lost track of chef/owner Patrick Yves Pierre-Jerome. Does anyone know where he's working at this point?

Was supposed to attend Hesser appearance, but she got stuck in traffic and never made it. It's been rescheduled for Mon., 11/15 in case anyone was interested and couldn't make the original date. I assume they're accepting new registrations for that evening.

The most consistent place for Savoy that I've found is Al Di La on Bloomfield Ave. in Montclair (below street level) but it's called Chicken Al Di La there. It's been served to us both over and under cooked at the Belmont and Stretch's. Al Di La also serves some of the more traditional "old Newark" dishes at times - tripe, cardoons and lamb's head at Easter. Haven't been in a while - kind of eccentric place but does some things well.

Ducasse seemed to be promoting his $225 Spoon Cook Book, a limited edition of 5,000 with about 50 still available in NY according to his “people”. (It will be reprinted in a less expensive format.) The demo, entitled “Rediscovering the Mortar & Pestle”, was of three “sauces” (Delouvrier’s term) from the book – cod brandade “Mantecato”, baba ghanouj and light pistou. A young chef, recently arrived from France, did most of the work with Ducasse stepping in briefly a few times. The actual demo took about 30 minutes, leaving an hour to fill. I believe the intent was to show the difference in taste and texture of the product made with the m & p as opposed to the food processor, but this was not discussed in detail. These “sauces” were passed in bowls with attendees tasting with individual plastic spoons for each item. Additional plates with another six sauces from the book were distributed but there was little discussion of the individual ingredients or techniques – these were not made with m & p. Unfortunately, this was the least organized of the sessions I attended, due in part, no doubt, to the language factor. Another reason Ducasse may have chosen to be part of the event is that one of the other participants was Thomas Keller. I would imagine that AD considers TK the most serious competition for the “big bucks” dinner. My feeling is that Ducasse does not necessarily want to be considered as a hands-on chef but as a creative force and instructor. It might be noted that when I have seen him, before a group or individually, he has seemed humble, almost shy, in demeanor, although the language factor may enter into the situation.

Has anyone tried this newcomer on Greenwich Street? We were frequent visitors to Portland, OR, where Couvron was our favorite of many terrific restaurants. Was saddened to hear that they closed there but delighted to learn they opened here last month. Haven't had a chance to get there and am anxious to know how they're doing.

I have been fortunate enough to enjoy the white truffle degustation at AD, in the old Paris location. It was the most exceptional meal of my life, and I have dined at a number of other French three stars as well as the French Laundry and, just this weekend, at Per Se. Was in the city this weekend for the Gourmet Institute, and my last seminar of the event was a demo by Ducasse. I had met him several years ago and knew his English was weak. Who was there to translate but Delouvrier! Although the presentation was a bit unorganized, it was fascinating to watch these two together, at times discussing somewhat heatedly in French how to explain things to the group.

There is an English author named Janet Laurence - I believe her culinary herione's name is Lyle but it's been a while. She doesn't seem to be writing any more, and her books were difficult to find even when she was but found her to be something like the British version of Davidson or Pence. BTW, Davidson has a new book due out on the 19th of this month.

I have never had a problem getting a reservation at The French Laundry by calling the reservation number two months in advance. Recently did the same thing for Per Se - redialed for about 20 mins., put on hold for 10. Did get a table for 2 at 5:30 on 10/24 (the other option was 10 pm). Unfortunately, the planned second diner now has a wedding that day, so I may be looking for an interested party or to give the reservation away.

Semi-retired restaurant critc/columnist moving to Frederick MD next year and looking for suggestions for shopping (food, of course) and dining in the area.