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yellow truffle

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    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 2)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    THE MENU - 20051231

    1. HOT POTATO cold potato, black truffle, parmesan

    2. SALSIFY parsley, smoked salmon, steelhead roe

    3. MANGO sesame oil, soy, bonito

    4. KING CRAB tropical fruits, rice, vanilla

    5. MUSSELS chamomile, cucumber, mint

    6. BLACK COD brown butter, lemon, capers

    7. PEAR celery leaf & branch, curry

    8. BISON persimmon, cranberry, juniper aroma

    9. LAMB potato, pistachio, sweet spices

    10. IDIAZABAL maple syrup, danish salt

    11. PLANTAIN coconut, chicory, litchi

    12. MARCONA ALMOND white ale, tonka bean, malt

    13. NIÇOISE OLIVE olive oil, saffron, cherry

    14. YUZU pine, black sesame

    15. YUBA shrimp, miso, orange

    16. PORK grapefruit, cornbread, ohio honeycomb

    17. KUMQUAT aquavit, picholine olive, caraway

    18. CHESTNUT too many garnishes to list

    19. BLACK TRUFFLE in the center of your table

    20. DUCK quince, onion, pillow of mace air

    21. KOBE BEEF yogurt, squash, smoked paprika candy

    22. SWEET POTATO bourbon, cinnamon fragrance

    23. GINGERBREAD sunchoke, raisin, melted butter

    24. APPLEWOOD muscovado sugar, fenugreek

    25. PEANUT frozen pedro ximénez

    26. CHOCOLATE avocado, lime, mint

    27. DRY CARAMEL salt

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 2)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    CONTINUOUSLY EVOLVING

    Alinea, for its New Year's Eve dinner service was, as jesteinf says, "crazy, over the top." From the time you walk into the restaurant, you notice the changes.

    gallery_15603_2329_5288.jpg

    First off, the restaurant had two seatings that evening. We arrived at nine, for the second seating (although we were not the last and there were a few more tables that were seated after us) and saw Josh and company at the entryway (waiting for their table). We were seated in the upper level towards the rear of the building. As we climbed the modern-esque, glass (tread and landing) stair case, the space seems a little more airy and open. Upon further inspection we figured out that the full height curtains had been pulled back and tied midway allowing one a better view of the other dining room across the stair case. I enjoyed this new vantage point, but I prefer the curtains set to hang normally because of the cleaner lines that it creates and I think it is more in line with architecture of Alinea.

    gallery_15603_2329_10972.jpg

    Having just dined at Alinea 2 weeks prior, I was interested in possibly trying out new dishes and experiencing new things, but I came with no expectations. Asides from the more open dining room, another change from the normal menu is a new centerpiece. Gone is the Ohio Honeycomb, but the exotic wood pedestal remains. Now I don't know for what ingredient the pedestal was designed for, but the combination of the translucent light colored honeycomb and the dark heavily grained exotic wood was a nice combination. So in place of the honeycomb, there is what looked to be some sort of petrified rock. Upon closer examination, touching, smelling and asking questions, it was what we feared. A black truffle. Since the chef likes to use the centerpiece as a garnish we were asking ourselves how would the truffle be dealt out? Perhaps one slice with shaver - ehh too boring and predictable. Or perhaps Martin Kastner is going to bring out a new accessory - we like this idea better. Only time will tell.

    gallery_15603_2329_22574.jpg

    There is only one printed menu for the evening, but our server tells us that the Chef would like to prepare something special. I mean come on, why else did we come here. Bring it on. And the wines too.

    Trio Atelier - Evanston IL

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    I don't know what Henry has in mind for "big," but it would be interesting to have the current and past chefs of Trio in the kitchen at the same time bringing out some of their classic dishes. It would be nice to have a taste of the things that launched them to where they are now and see the progression of the talent that has come of Trio all within a 60 course meal.

    Trio Atelier - Evanston IL

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted · Edited by yellow truffle (log)

    Very sad news about Trio Atelier from Chicago Magazine's Dish, via email:
    After 12 years of ruling the North Shore, Trio (1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston; 847-733-8746) will close at the end of February. “It’s time for me to do it,” says Henry Adaniya, the owner, who will focus on his restaurant consulting company. “There is sadness because I’m so connected to the place, but I need to move on. Things change, and I’m a big person for change.” The restaurant’s last day is tentatively February 25th, but Adaniya is planning a larger closing gala in the days following. “I really want to see if I can put something big together,” he says. “We really want to go out with our heads held high and have a celebration.” . . .

    Very sad indeed.

    So what does this mean? For one, the current chefs, Dale Levitski (exec chef) and Mary McMahon (pastry), become free agents. Per Adaniya, Levitski is currently looking at several options, and would like to open his own business. And Adaniya says McMahon has rekindled the idea of opening her own patisserie. As for the space itself, owned by Evanston’s Homestead Hotel, Adaniya, 51, plans to work with the hotel’s management to find a new concept for it. “With the proliferation of chefs out there,” Adaniya says, “I’m hoping a chef-operator will take over the space.” And Adaniya himself? Consulting for now, but he says he’s always wanted to own a hot dog stand on a Hawaiian beach. “It’s kind of a serious joke, but I’ve played with the idea for a long time. At this time in my life, I should put up or shut up.”

    Under Adaniya’s guidance, Trio has been one of America’s most influential (and unpredictable) restaurants of the past decade. It has gone through four widely divergent phases since its 1993 inception, launching the careers of Gale Gand, Rick Tramonto (Tru), Shawn McClain (Spring, Green Zebra, Custom House), and Grant Achatz (Alinea)—a diverse and talented roster of chefs. Its current incarnation as Trio Atelier, with Chef Levitski and McMahon leading the charge, scaled things back considerably in décor and menu. “Everything was so radically different every time,” says Adaniya. “I was constantly looking for uniqueness.”

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 2)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    ...This was when YT made his grand entrance.

    Grand entrance, I think not, but thanx anyway. :biggrin:

    I think it was Nick who made a grand entrance, as he was a diner that evening, although he was working the floor throughout the evening.

    yt:  5 hours and 27 courses later of a NYE dinner and all we get is one picture of Joe?  you've put up some great photos before...are you trying to build anticipation?

    Actually it was a 6.25 hour experience. No anticipation building, just working on getting them up to par. As you know, I just don't upload the images, I do a little bit of post production work.

    Top 10 Restaurant Meals of 2005

    in Restaurant Life

    Posted

    1. Château Les Crayères (Reims, France), November 3

    2. La Rive (Amsterdam, Nederland), November 1

    3. Alinea (Chicago, Illinois), December 31

    4. Mosconi (Luxembourg City, Luxembourg), November 4

    5. Mix (Las Vegas, Nevada), May 19

    6. Moto (Chicago, Illinois), March 31

    7. Im Schiffen Düsseldorf, Deutschland), October 29

    8. Avenues (Chicago, Illinois), November 9

    9. Sweets & Savories (Chicago, Illinois), November 10

    10. DB Bistro Moderne (New York City, New York), February 28

    The list has no doubles. Otherwise Alinea would have slotted in there at least two more times. Biggest disappointment of 2005, WD-50 (New York City, New York), February 26.

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