yellow truffle

January 14, 2006

To me, the idea of a scaled down, less formal setting for your past cusinine makes sense on so many levels.
Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past?
Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same?
does ordering a great piece of toro nigiri (or 5!) make it less special because it is more approachable? I don't think so.
In a tasting menu it makes sense to have an integrated whole that is composed and balanced -- and certainly a tasting menu could be available. But why not have the tapas/sushi bar of black truffle explosions etc.? Hell, I am at Alinea most days and I don't get to eat them!
You of all people should know why it is more special to have a format that is controlled by the house. How special is the explosion when you can get a dozen of them at will? Ron—was the first or the second explosion better?
Everyone has to admit there is something unique/special to a tasting menu format that an ala carte or tapas/sushi style service cannot provide.
Isn't that why you have Alinea. Restaurant x would support Alinea, but the menu structure is different. Alinea would be the special and restaurant x be the regular. I can't see myself having everyday be a special day. Though I could have many regular days.
But why would restaurant X be everyday? In fact, by saying that it would be everyday, aren't we diminishing the dishes that once made Trio and Alinea not everyday? Why can't the two concepts exist just like the French Laundry and Per Se exist? Why wouldn't it be more attractive than that, being that no dishes would overlap at the two restaurants? Why can't this concept just bring forth two great four star restaurants?

I think one of the (many) reasons why FL and PS works is that is not in the same area. I was under the assumption that restaurant X would be in Chicago. Perhaps one intention for opening up Bouchon is to take in the others who are unable to make it to the FL. Then maybe a restaurant Y is in order.

Anyways...

While you have the mike, care to comment on what is store after the break. Any major (or minor) changes? How about mid year? Anniversary? Care to share an outlined plan of the coming months. I ask, so that docsconz (and other non-locals) can plan out their Chicago visits.

...

Perhaps a diner has come to the restaurant and said, "today is my (or someone in the group) birthday." And you know they are expecting a cake with candles or something. Assuming that the before is true, what have you done, if any, to oblige.

January 14, 2006

To me, the idea of a scaled down, less formal setting for your past cusinine makes sense on so many levels.
Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past?
Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same?
does ordering a great piece of toro nigiri (or 5!) make it less special because it is more approachable? I don't think so.
In a tasting menu it makes sense to have an integrated whole that is composed and balanced -- and certainly a tasting menu could be available. But why not have the tapas/sushi bar of black truffle explosions etc.? Hell, I am at Alinea most days and I don't get to eat them!
You of all people should know why it is more special to have a format that is controlled by the house. How special is the explosion when you can get a dozen of them at will? Ron—was the first or the second explosion better?
Everyone has to admit there is something unique/special to a tasting menu format that an ala carte or tapas/sushi style service cannot provide.

Isn't that why you have Alinea. Restaurant x would support Alinea, but the menu structure is different. Alinea would be the special and restaurant x be the regular. I can't see myself having everyday be a special day. Though I could have many regular days.

January 14, 2006

Very difficult in my experience.

Fair enough. Thank you for your time chef. And thanx for making Alinea a Chicago restaurant. I cant wait to see what this new year, and a 2 week hiatus will bring to the restaurant... Now go and tuck in the kids.

January 14, 2006

What is resturant X were a "tapas" or "sushi" concept that offered all of the best one bite courses that we have ever offered...plus some more substantial ones…almost like a sushi bar concept…you come in a order 4 black truffle explosions, a few shrimp tempura on vanilla beans, some cheese n’ crackers, so on and so forth…then you order a substantial main course and dessert?

Yes! 4 black truffle explosions (savory) and 4 bacons (sweet). No really, I think it is a great idea. I have had so many friends that want to experience your dishes, but are a little hesitant because of the cost and time involved. Ordering small items, puts the diner back in control. I feel Alinea is a major commitment. Once you are there, it is the whole evening. But sometimes I would like something small, then maybe watch a play, and come back for a big finish. Restaurant x diners, can come and go as they please, sort of. I think restaurant x diners will primarily be guests that have had your cuisine before, but it could also be a platform to get people to go to the flagship.

But I have a vivid memory of an instance that happened in culinary school that to this day shapes how I cook for guests. One of the chef instructors commented on a dishes quality to a student in a negative manner. The reason they said openly was that this person hated cilantro. I felt this was very unfair…for a chef to judge the quality of a dish based on his/her personal likes/dislikes. From that day on I have used ingredients that I don’t particularly enjoy…..for the benefit of the guest.

Nice. And thank you for that.

The one thing that does bother me about really spicy food in the context of dining is how it reacts with alcohol. To pair wines with a very spicy food is difficult….obviously the heat is intensified by the alcohol to the point where flavor is lost. I guess for that particular course we could pair with a non-alcoholic beverage…but….

This is a challenge. Or should I say, this is the challenge. Is it possible to recover the taste buds once it has been engulfed with spicy ingredients?

January 14, 2006

....I think beyond the obvious business angle there are compelling reasons to bring a restaurant like this life. What are your thoughts, you guys are the patrons…I am just the chef.
What if everything at Alinea was new…always? And everything at restaurant X was a greatest hit? Is there a need/desire for that?

Well if you are taking votes. Restaurant X could be a place where one can go and order à la Carte. I think you will reach a broader range of customers. Yeah, keep Alinea as the flagship.

chefg

What are your thoughts with spicy food. You mentioned upthread that you prepare curry for yourself. Is there a dish in the works that engages the spicy side of the palate at Alinea? Perhaps a deconstructed Tabasco sauce. Or a rainbow of international curry flavors. Vindaloo?

January 13, 2006

chefg

Now that you have a restaurant, is this the main focus. What I mean to ask is, will there be other events outside of Alinea? Prior to having a physical space you showcased some of your concepts at the MCA Chicago, late 2004. It was enjoyable to get a preview/taste of the food and fun to interact with the never before seen serviceware (antenna). Perhaps it might be interesting to showcase a few more never before seen concepts to the masses at other such events.

Back in The Alinea Project, there was a discussion (or lack there of) on the architecture of Alinea. Would you care to talk about the overall concept? How about sharing some insight towards some of the design details. And what made you decide upon certain material selections?

And while we are at it, wines.

Trio was in the past, as was the Black Truffle Explosion. Alinea is "the beginning of a new train of thought." How strongly will you abide by this philosophy. The question is, would we see the return of some of your more successful dishes at (but not limited to) Alinea in the near future? Would there be a reappearance of the bacon?

How about that dried crème brulee. Is it really lost. Never to be found again.

January 13, 2006

When do you decide a dish is done? Looking back at some of the dishes that has been served, not every one of them is the same. Perhaps a few minor changes/tweaks in the preparation, ingredient selection, presentation, portion serving, etc. What defines making these subtle changes? On a couple occasions you came out of the kitchen to observe the diners reactions. Is it from this that you alter the dish to conform to the diners likes/dislikes. When do you pull off the dish from the menu? Some items last a week or two, and others last a couple/few months.

Any plans on opening a restaurant in Las Vegas?

If the idea of creating a dining experience is to be ever evolving and constantly in motion - always a new train of thought - then would the interior also take upon the same relationship. Perhaps the LED lights with their infinite color selection is one solution.

Any plans on publishing a book?

How much has technological advances in the cooking industry (or any industry) influenced your creativity? This question ranges from food preparation, presentation, diner experience, etc.

How about television? Iron Chef America?

January 12, 2006

Sorry to get off the NYE discussion, but I was curious about the plate/bowl used for the hot potato.
I think I read somewhere that the bowl is made out of wax and is remoldable?
I'm just wondering if there is a reason for this as opposed to having a hard plastic bowl?
Mindbender is correct; the bowl is made from food grade paraffin wax. This is another Crucial Detail design. Martin designed a four part molding system that we use to cast the bowls daily. As part of one of the chef’s mise en place he is required to make 90 wax bowls each day.
The use of wax was chosen for a couple key reasons. It allows us to pierce the bowl with the stainless pin used to keep the hot potato separate from the cold potato. The soft feel of the wax itself is very nice in the hand and on the mouth, and the translucent qualities of the thin wax are aesthetically appealing on the dark table.

January 11, 2006

PHOTO NOTES

We were seated in a difficult place (taking notes Chris) because the camera was facing the LED lights. LED lights have a different color temperature than the other lights in the space. In fact there were using at least three different light sources. The very bright light blue LED lights when balanced to the incandescent, gives a slightly pinkish white color. I have had great results from the red LEDs (back of the house). But really, I'm here for the food.

For 2006, I am coming armed with an electron microscope.

January 11, 2006

LAST NOTES

No parting gifts this evening. Recently the restaurant has been bottling up the left over honey and giving it to their guests as a take home present. I was sort of hoping that they may do that with the black truffle, but they finished that at our table. I was hoping for perhaps a quarter bottle (0.2L) of the Perrier Jouët, Fleur de Champagne (do they even make it at that size). But so was not the case.

Sidebar: The Alinea logo on the cover of the honey take home bottle seems a little strange. The script font does not seem to jive with the Alinea esthetic. It sort of reminds me of the Trio logo. Although both logos use a script type face, they are very different.

Nine in the evening seems late to begin a 6.25 hour dinner, but I was ready. Took the obligatory disco nap to make sure I could last the evening at full force. It seems that that the staff (front and back) also had their mini naps, because they handled the evening flawlessly.

Overall, I thought that the food was better than when I was last there, two weeks ago. Things have improved greatly. In fact, I enjoyed this experience most out of the five other Alinea experiences. Thanx goes out to those that were able to make this happen. Not just the big boys, but the little guys (and girls).

January 11, 2006

ENVIRONMENT NOTES

The staff was very relaxed, but professional this evening. They kept their distance and yet were very friendly. During the evening we were treated with live music, played at a comfortable level not to disturb whisper conversation. They were stationed at second floor vestibule area, but they roamed around a couple times.

Prior to the midnight hour, Joe (the server, not the sommelier) walks out with a jeroboam sized bottle of Perrier Jouët, Fleur de Champagne. Already a little loopy, one can't help but feel giddy when it comes out and they start pouring it for each table. And like a kid at Christmas we were eyeing that glass and counting the minutes until we can give it a try.

In addition to the above mentioned, flamenco dancers performed at each of the three dining rooms. Dressed in a vibrant red silk fabric, their dress brought an highlight color to the sort of muted color palate of the interior.

The countdown was given by the guests and at midnight... nothing happened. I was expecting laser beams to come out of the LED fixtures, saffron confetti to come out of the ceiling and pure oxygen pumped into the room (perhaps scented with Galangal). Instead, the guests were giving each other hugs, shaking hands and toasting glasses. What was also interesting was the staff was also greeting each other with merriment.

January 11, 2006

FOOD NOTES

The HOT POTATO uses simple ingredients that work together to make one tasty dish. The finish is smooth and light and does not linger in the mouth. The rosé (Henri Billiot Grand Cru) is a good combination. It works great as a starter - lets keep it there, shall we. Last time I had this it was also the first course, but they used a different rosé (J. Aubry).

The MANGO made a return to the menu and this time they got it figured out. The first time I had this was in early October, and I found the flavor to be a little strong on the sesame side - the flavor lingered sesame for a while. This time the balance was just right. Everything at the same level. This was really great. I like this one.

Another dish that took a turn for the better was the SALSIFY. This version was lighter and more delicate. I enjoyed the small amount of sauce and the roe magically clings to salsify defying gravity. Whereas before the sauce was a lake and the roe was found swimming in it. Even though the salsify was a larger one piece portion, the strings of salsify worked better and produced a more even texture (image below is from two weeks prior).

The cheese puff of IDIAZABAL was the best so far. They added a layer of lightly shaved fresh cheese on one side and brushed the other side with a light coating of maple syrup. This extra step of shaving the cheese was a welcome addition, whereas before it was just the puff. Our server offered us moist towels to clean our finger, but trust me, you wanna lick your fingers after this one. It is like eating a bag of Cheetos Cheese Puffs, but with real cheese, and fancy hardware.

Things that look familiar are the LAMB and BLACK COD. They reminded me of the BISON and DOVER SOLE respectively.

Although the honeycomb is not the centerpiece for this evening, the chef still has the PORK dish. You know the one where the server drizzles some honey over it. This time, the honey has been pre-drizzled by the chef. Hey now, I have seen this done a few times already, do you think I could have a go at it next time around. The previous version was called OPAH. I have had it with the fish and with the pork and I say the pork version was better - the pork always wins.

Another winner is the CHESTNUT. Alinea's description is kinda weak for this item, "too many garnishes to list." So I too will be brief. "Too good to describe in five words." For those that to know the ingredients, check out docsconz's post. It's the same thing, and same wine as well.

Our YUBA was different from docsconz. Instead of grapefruit, the chef used orange and instead of tuna, shrimp. I don't know jesteinf, I think our's sound better.

YUZU was an enjoyable and a great intermezzo/palate cleanser. The Japanese citrus fruit was used to flavor the curly shavings of ice strings. This is a very time sensitive dish. Wait too long and the shavings of ice start to break apart on their own. "Forget the camera, take the yuzu."

Another of the intermezzo/palate cleanser course, was the KUMQUAT. This was served, not by an acupuncture needle, but from a larger knitting sized one. The liquor had sponged into the citrus fruit creating Alinea's version of a martini with olives. This was tasty, but I prefer the BURDOCK.

Speaking of mixing liquor with food. The SWEET POTATO is a hands down winner. The bourbon resides at the bottom of this morsel, which because of the cinnamon stick handle, the bourbon is the first flavor you encounter. The whole item just melts in your mouth. I wonder if this could be done with the PHEASANT.

Other dishes that were noteworthy are the: NIÇOISE OLIVE, DUCK, GINGERBREAD, PLANTAIN, and MARCONA ALMOND.

The wines were also amazing. Six-teen different flavors were to be had this evening. I was a real fan of Delaforce "Curious & Ancient" 20 Year Tawny Port. This was paired with the PLANTAIN and the MARCONA ALMOND.

The food highlight of the evening was the saving of the black truffle. A simple dish of pasta with butter sauce is the base for the truffle garnish. The shaving is done, not with a Crucial Detail designed gadget, but with a MicroPlane. Talk about gratuitous, they finished off the whole truffle for our table. This was unexpected and so over the top (see image above).

I must say though that this was a strange dish to see in the menu. It seems to lack the details and complexity of the other dishes that one has had at Alinea. But this dish was fun. It was fun just to have the basic flavors and not try to deconstruct every ingredient that went into the dish. It was fun to savor the flavors. Chef went old school with that one, unlike the previous BLACK TRUFFLE dish where the chef used the eye and had flavors of hazelnut, banana and cocoa (see image above), which was served two weeks prior.

January 11, 2006

Course 27. DRY CARAMEL salt