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yellow truffle

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    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    Nishla, great post and pics. Oh man, it has been too long. I really need to go back soon.

    FYI, May 5th is the restaurant's third anniversary. Being that it is a Monday, they will probably be closed. I am really curious to see what they up their sleeve around this time.

    Actually, their anniversary is May 4th. :wink:

    Of course it is. My mistake. I think that you would know John, since it is your birthday. Have fun with your xx (enter age here) courses. :biggrin:

    Best Dim Sum in Chicago

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    I've had dim sum at a couple of the places in Chinatown.  I've found that the Chinese food I like best is at places (e.g. Lao Sze Chuan) that do not serve dim sum.

    Note that dim sum is was invented and is very popular in the Guangdong (aka Canton) province, in south China. Szechuan, a province in the midwestern part of China does not have too many dim sum type restaurants, but is slowly increasing. A true Szechuan restaurant like Lao should not serve dim sum, although I think that if they plate some of their Szechuan dishes in smaller bite sized morsels, it would be a great hit.

    If you find Phoenix too crowded, take a trip across the street to Happy Chef. It too may be crowded and does not have the roaming carts, but the price is about half as much as Phoenix and tastes about 90% similar - some will argue that the price makes it taste better. :blink:

    Note that dim sum places usually serve from when the restaurant opens, 8 or 9, until 2 or 3. Worth going there early and have breakfast and beat the crowds.

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    After having the most recent Art Culinaire issue sit in its box for a few weeks, I was able to take time off and read it, and to my surprise there is a piece on Chef Achatz and Alinea. Most of the stuff we all know by now, but what I haven't seen before are large studio photos (don't know if it was a staff photog or Lara Kastner's work) and recipes for five dishes.

    They are:

    - Hot Potato Cold Potato

    - Sweet Potato Tempura with Whisky Gel and Cinnamon Fragrance

    - Bacon with Butterscotch and Apple Leather

    - Sour Cream with Grates Smoked Salmon and Pink Peppercorns

    - Licorice Cake with Banana-Licorice Chips and Orange Confit

    Although not the first time, I found it very generous for them to share recipes. I was wondering if they would share the service ware and the tools used to cook / prepare these items as well. :biggrin:

    I wonder when the book is coming. :wink:

    Chicago Metromix

    in Food Media & Arts

    Posted

    I love metromix. It's great for basic statistical information, such what are the hours, address, phone, price range, etc. As for the reviews, because anyone can sign in without knowing exactly where or who that person really is, it is hard to make a judgement call based on reader reviews. Although it is fun to read them. The use of superlatives are very frequent and there is a lack of any serious critiquing (especially the not so positive commentary), which I guess where the censorship comes into play.

    Spacca Napoli - Chicago

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    Eliot, That Bismark looks spanktastik. Lunch is IMHO the best time to go when you can walk in and easily get a table and not have to wait too long for the food. I am pretty impressed with their Margherita, simple basic and consistent. Although I am a little shocked that it took you this long to try it out. Slightly off topic and non Neapolitan style pizza thin crust contenders are Coal Fire and Crust.
    We did not try the Margarita, next time...have you tried Coal Fire?

    Have not yet been. They are only open for dinner. When do you want to go.

    BTW, the ham and cheese (Prosciutto e Buffala) is so gratuitous. I am not sure if this has been checked pleased, but the quality still looks good. Them crusts are holding up.

    Spacca Napoli - Chicago

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    Eliot, That Bismark looks spanktastik. Lunch is IMHO the best time to go when you can walk in and easily get a table and not have to wait too long for the food. I am pretty impressed with their Margherita, simple basic and consistent. Although I am a little shocked that it took you this long to try it out. Slightly off topic and non Neapolitan style pizza thin crust contenders are Coal Fire and Crust.

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted · Edited by yellow truffle (log)

    34 at 34, some thoughts.

    Chef takes on a more Asian/Pacific Islander inspired set of dishes.

    A new item, BONITO, is sort of like a dried sardine. Now while it may be easy to dry a sardine, creating a dried product out of a product out of bonito (dried fish flakes) seems like a challenge. This candied treat scores one under sweet column. If Asians had this as a dessert, I would have never left the continent.

    KING CRAB was an Alinea-interpreted deconstruction of crab sushi. The crustacean was flavored with wine, and the rice was mixed with vinegar. Sounds pretty normal, right up to where the crab was suspended on a rice wine gelée with some complementary garnishes, on top of both items. Very Alinea-esque.

    The COCONUT ribbon texture was nothing like a coconut, but it sure tasted like one. Sort of like a coconut cream that has been formed into a solidified strip, this sweet course makes for a wonderful start to final series of toothsome dishes. I for one am a fan of this dish.

    Although not specially an Asian thing, PERSIMMON might be more regarded with cultures from the far east. This cool thick custard was fairly robust in flavor and the addition of the ginger tea ball added to the complexity (without loosing focus) of this dish.

    Some Alinea favorites made its way back onto the menu.

    The explosive BLACK TRUFFLE seemed a little thicker than usual (not that I am complaining). The HOT POTATO dish tasted the same as before, but I noticed that my soup had a little more color than usual. And of course the you can't have a birthday dinner without a touch of BACON.

    The maturation of certain dishes.

    The APPLE has the juice in a cocoa butter shell. Previous renditions of this were PEAR, PEACH, CARROT.

    Previously known as the TURBOT, the HALIBUT arrives with hyacinth vapor in tow. This time a bountiful presentation of the lilies. IMHO, this is the definition of Alinea comfort food.

    What started as the TARRAGON, then became the IDIAZABAL, and now the MORELS, the direction seems to be moving towards a heavier course. Note that Chef is adding dimension to the puff and creating layers of flavors. Although tasty, I feel that it is not reminiscent of the characteristics of the "puff."

    CHESTNUT is always a wonderful one bite dish that acts as an intermezzo, as does the YUZU. The LAMB and the SKATE are fairly solid savory dishes and will satisfy most epicureans.

    OCTOPUS was presented in a sphere (it's always a seafood with this dish), which acts as both a holder for the utensil and a vessel for some sort of fluid. I thought the flavors were pretty good, although I thought the serving dish required a little more hands-on by the guests than the other serving pieces. Instead of eating the ingredients on the fork and then drinking the fluid at the base, I would have liked to have seen both of these elements combined.

    EGG YOLK is back with a smear of meyer lemon (another Asian ingredient) on the plate. With asparagus season around the corner, it is only natural to have this dish on the menu.

    Revisiting Trio, at Alinea.

    The tripod makes it way through the doors of Alinea with the HIBISCUS lollipop. Fun and playful, ahh the good times.

    The BLUEBERRY and soda combination, along with the blueberry strip at the bottom of the five gelée flavors (?, fennel, cream with smoked salt, chocolate, hazelnut) is a wonderful way to celebrate spring. As the height of blueberry season comes around this will evolve into a richer dish. I would like to see this on the menu for a while.

    TRANSPARENCY deconstructs manchego cheese. There is a skin of cheese and a few chunks strategically placed on the plate. To complement the flavors there are some red and yellow peppers, with some arugula. The flavors are there, but I don't care much for the texture.

    Previously at Trio, both these dishes were know as the Mountain Huckleberry Soda and Manchego Textures.

    Some of the new guys.

    The CROQUETTE starts the evening off with this wonderful deep fried creation. The core has a soft creamy texture with hints of salmon. The roe garnish (which I assume is from BLiS) provided a highlight to this one bite'r. I love the way Chef is playing with the warm soft center of the croquette and the cool fluid center of the roe. This encapsulation theme seems to be carried through in more of the dishes that evening. This was a winner by everyone at our table that evening. I foresee this on the menu for a while, I hope.

    The CHANTERELLE course brought out a special, in-house Alinea-made, bread roll as a complement to the dish. The roll had hints of smoked paprika that worked well for me in cleaning the plate of mushroom purée.

    MONKFISH was sure winner in my book. I loved the juxtaposition with the texture of the fried nuggets and the liver mousse. Tasty, just tasty.

    The previous one bite course of NIÇOISE OLIVE and OLIVE OIL, have transformed itself into the multi bite course called the ORANGE. A cleaner approach (read. finger free) to tasting the flavors make the addition of other ingredients easier. Now Chef is able to add some more liquids to this once dry course.

    VENISON, as odd a combination as this sounds, this really works. The meat (cooked sous-vide, I believe) breaks a part nicely and the granola makes for a soft crust. The parsnip puree garnishes nicely.

    LICORICE CAKE (aka. tumbleweed), was an odd looking item. <Sidebar: If Michael Ruhlman is not a fan of the antenna, how might he react to this dish. Note to Martin on upgrading the antenna: Have really tiny camera mounted at the base of the antenna so as to catch the reactions of the diners. And then print out image on edible paper...ohh sorry wrong thread.> The hairs are sugar strings that just melt in your mouth, you don't even need to press down. The licorice flavor was a slight one at first, but builds up to a comfortable level. As this flavor is the finish, you gotta like licorice.

    How To Finish A Meal.

    So after sampling 31 dishes, we still had it in us to go for ten more. Until the BIRTHDAY came around. I believe this is usually given to just the person celebrating the bDay, but in this case the call was made to be given to everyone at the table. The dish is like opening a gift given by the restaurant. The hot (heavy) buttercream melts the chocolate ball, and presents you with a little mini cake. As we each consumed about a half a cup of the heavy cream, that pretty much put us over the top and were now starting to think "uncle."

    And the kitchen does not stop there. FOH bring's out the squid, which could mean only one thing, a fried item. CARAMEL was a nice sweet ending to meal, or so we thought. Now it is Joe's turn to finish us off. He brings out a wonderfully rich and thick digestif. Appropriately know as the NIGHTCAP, a pear floating in sherry and tequila that compensates for any after dinner beverage. All that was needed was a cigar and a fireplace.

    There are probably close to 200 different ingredients and a few dozen techniques used to create this meal. With 34 courses, one starts to see patterns emerge from the a seemingly un-chaotic presentation of ingredients. One that particularly stands out is how Chef loves to encase a liquid (or something less viscous) in a shell. I would not have said this of dinners early on in Alinea, and I am sure I would not say the same of the restaurant a couple of years from now. This continual evolution is just one of the reasons that keeps me coming back.

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    3. CHANTERELLE carrot, curry, ham
    What is the relationship of these three plates in this post?

    John. All the images are part of the same course. The first image was a paprika bread roll. Unlike previous bread offerings that were made by local bakery, Red Hen Bread, this one was done by Alinea. They just came by and placed one of these on our plate, no questions asked. It is designed to be complement the CHANTERELLE dish. The second image is what the dish looks like when it arrives at your table. Note the clear cylinder surrounding the ingredients.

    gallery_15603_4373_7639.jpg

    The server then pulls up the sleeve and voilà, the following two images becomes the end presentation. Check out the MAITAKE.

    [CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

    in The Heartland: Dining

    Posted

    As always, fantastic images, Anthony. Thanks for sharing (again). Looking back, which you have facilitated so wonderfully, I really loved the Venison in Savory Granola and the Manchego Transparency. Also, the Orange and Olive Oil dessert was fantastic...
    You are welcome, Ron.
    Spectacular photographs of spectacularly beautiful food! It is nice to see that both you and Grant Achatz are still very much alive and kicking...not that I had any doubt!
    Chef is still creating some amazing dishes, some of which I have not had the time to put up. Every time I come in, there is always something new.
    What is particularly amazing about the quality of this photography is that it is done table-side during dinner. Though they look like they could have been, they were not shot in a special photo shoot. It has been too long since I have been to Alinea.
    You are correct, sir. These are still being done table side, sans any other equipment. And yes, John, it has been too long since you have returned.
    Absolutely stunning...YT!
    Thanx Eliot. But I just point and shoot the camera. The amazing part are how the dishes taste.
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