bleudauvergne

I would definitely go simple, something like dried sausages sliced thin - do you have a source for that? It is also really simple to transport... Is this guy too far out of the way?

Your new book, Paula, has so many lovely photographs, and various kinds, b&w, color spreads, the simple and pretty bouquet with the ochre tint on the inside of the front and back cover... It was particularly exciting to see that all of the photographs were done by Mr. Christopher Hirsheimer, who makes appearances in so many of the cookbooks I have that feature photos. How did you come to the decision to use Mr. Hirsheimer's work, and what was it like working with him? How much time did you have with him? What kind of equipment did he have? How did you go about arranging for the photo sessions? Do tell all!

What color lillet are you serving?

For the vin de noix course, I'm thinking something light but nutty, like a flavored flan of some kind, maybe maple - something not too rich or heavy.

Paula Wolfert's introduction to her new book The Cooking of Southwest France has been added and pinned to the top of the eG Spotlight Conversation. You can read it by clicking here and then choosing "The Cooking of Southwest France: An Introduction" at the top of the forum.

For readers who have not figured it out yet, d'Artagnan is one of the mail order sources for products that Paula lists in the annex in the back of the book.

What a breautiful well thought out meal, Abra. Bravo!

Abra's Blog brought me here. Wow this all looks really really good. Thank you Klary! I think I am also going to make these cookies which look amazing!

Interesting to note that your relationship with an editor can make such a huge difference in the way you feel about a project. In what ways does a good editor inspire an author?

Paula, how much time did you spend in the field, traveling in the SW, for the rewrite? Was it difficult, when you first started out, mustering up the courage to ask if you could enter a cooks kitchen and observe? For the restauranteurs, did you find that they readily volunteered to cook something specific that you requested, or did you find yourself more of a detached observer in their working kitchen?

Abra, did you wipe the lid twice during cooking and making sure that the liquid does not drip back in? I found that mine came out nice and crispy, but I was pretty careful to follow the lid wiping (twice) instruction and I know that it made a diference in the crispiness. I completely agree rhat the crispiness thing is definitely key, I'm sorry it didn't work the first time but you should try it again! The contrast between the creamy leeks and the crispy potatoes - divine.

Drool.

That is a tarte amandine, i.e. a tart lined with almond cream between crust and fruit instead of crème pâtissière. It is not a cake. ← Here's a picture of a little amandine tarte.

This is a really important element of food writing and recording culinary details that I have never heard so eloquently and directly expressed, Paula, yet it hits the nail directly on the head. Thank you. It really is that simple, isn't it. At some point everyone tries to locate where they stand in relation to their subject. At certain times the subject is evasive - it obstinately refuses to be categorized or pinned down when you want it the most - you have to charm it from the basket, which takes a good deal of legwork. At any time, there's going to be someone who can blithely give a counter example or a reason why this or that isn't so; despite the fact that you may have seen it, come close to it, established an intimate relationship with it, smelled it, recorded its story, and most of all tasted it. It is a major challenge to enter a changing culture with eyes and heart open, hoping to present your findings to an increasingly discriminating public. The intro to your new edition clearly illustrates the way your writing style has developed over time. I was glad to have it back-to-back with the intro you wrote over 20 years ago, to read one after the other. The contrast is striking and at the same time it tells me a lot about how your relationship with your subject has changed over the years. In the intro to your first book, you wrote about the "tendency towards secretiveness still prevalent among some of the older, bony-faced 'mothers' in the tight black hats" that you observed in various places - where "when surveying a marketplace can tell the differences in taste between two squawking chickens", or on the train, "recipe-dangling" to one another without revealing the single key element that made a dish. Those of us who know both books know very well that the second edition is a triumph, although none of us could have imagined changing a single word of the first before we'd seen it. At what moment, Paula, did you realize you finally had mastered the complexity of your subject to the degree that you could go ahead and completely rework and re-organize the original book - considering the exacting perfectionism we know to be Paula's? Was it a huge undertaking to consider or was it something that seemed just like the right thing to do and came forth naturally?

Susan Fahning (aka snowangel), Elie Nassar (aka foodman) and I warmly welcome you to participate in this eG Spotlight Conversation with Paula Wolfert until Friday, November 18, as she answers our questions about her life, vocation, and the recently released new edition of The Cooking of Southwest France, Recipes from France's Magnificent Rustic Cuisine. See you there! Links: A Biographical Note The eG Spolight Conversation with Paula.

Susan Fahning (aka snowangel), Elie Nassar (aka foodman) and I warmly welcome you to participate in this eG Spotlight Conversation with Paula Wolfert from today until Friday, November 18, as she answers our questions about her life, vocation, and the recently released new edition of The Cooking of Southwest France, Recipes from France's Magnificent Rustic Cuisine. See you there! Links: A Biographical Note The eG Spolight Conversation with Paula. eG Members Discuss Cooking with The cooking of SW France

Oh what a beautiful blog! I do remember Pogo, a brief blip way back in the recesses of my mind. The country is beautiful! The food you served at the church was excellent! Abra whatever you cook please think of something to do with the vin de noix!

I noticed, Paula, that one of your new soups is the Chestnut and Cepe Soup with Walnuts. How delicious!! When did you first taste the original soup prepared by chef Jean-Lois Palladin? I was so glad to see that you included a description of the way it was presented when you had it in the restaurant, because it got me excited about different possible garnishes. You mention: "however, lacking a kitchen staff to do all that work, I've opted to simplify the soup." How many times did you make the simplified version before you knew you had it just right? - SW France home cooking's beauty lies in the simplicity. How long in your research did it take you to pare it all down and be able to see the "bones" of the regional recettes - the recipes in general?

Patience - it is an image gullet problem - they're working on it!

Paula, thank you ever so much for joining us for this spotlight conversation! The first question that comes to mind is how things have changed between the time that you originally researched The Cooking of Swouthwest France and this last edition of the book. From reading the book, I see where you have gone back to the places you found your original recipes and visited with the people, updating us on their stories, what's happened since you were last there, where they are now and what's become of their endeavors. it's been roughly 22 years since the original edition of The Cooking of Southwest France was published. When you went back to expand and revise the content for the new edition, did you notice a big change in the region and the food generally served there? What was be the biggest difference you noticed?

I love the idea of a cookbook for all earthenware or stoneware pots. I understand you have been collecting cooking pots for some time. Do you plan to use some of your vintage cookware in the making of the cookbook?

Mmm Colombo! Friends have brought me colombo powder from Martinique and also from the isle of Reunion, and there are tons of different kinds, as well as ways to use it, shrimp and spinach sounds really delicious. You can also prepare the spinach and serve it with other seafood. Some people like to add the colombo to the sizzling onions and shallots, before fresh spinach is added, to toast it a bit and bring the flavor out. Addition of papaya is also very good, before the spinach which would be your last addition. If you don't have access to colombo powder, you can patch up an imitation as best you can with with: 1 tsp Paprika, 1/2 t. ground fenugrek, 1 tsp ground mild dried pepper such as anaheim, 1/2 to 1 t. ground dried hot pepper such as chipotle (to taste), 1 t. dried oregano. Some people like to add cumin as well. Instead of anise, you might add Fresh dill to the original saute in addition to the spices. When you make this spinach side for seafood, you might want to brighten it just before serving with a squeeze from a lime. Have fun!

Paula Wolfert and The Cooking of Southwest France Paula Wolfert is the woman we know as so much more than a fellow member and guiding force here at the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. From our day to day brushes with Paula’s presence here in the forums, many can attest to Paula’s personality as a natural mentor and to her giving spirit. She gently encourages us all to move forward in our projects, individual and collective, as we strive to make a difference in the world of food and cooking. Just a few years ago many of us would never have imagined having the opportunity to correspond directly with the legendary grand dame, curious writer, traveler and master cook who penned many of our dearest classics. Her volumes are examples of the best contemporary food writing and cookbooks on our shelves. Indeed, Paula’s accomplishments are recognized with the highest accolades: she has won the Julia Child Award, The James Beard Award, The M. F. K. Fisher Award, The Tastemaker Award and been a finalist for the Andre Simon Award. We are truly blessed to have her among us. For those who are not familiar with Paula's influence in the English speaking realm of French cooking, Paula's original edition in 1983 of The Cooking of Southwest France was a first in many ways. Her work was the first to introduce to average American home cooks on a grand scale the concept of French regional cuisine. Not only was it an introduction, but a warm and friendly beckon for us to join her as she worked her way through the Southwest of France and its treasures. She eased our journey through her anecdotal, but at the same time thorough and rigorous approach to a careful selection of recipes from the Gascogne Languedoc and Guyenne. Many of us cooked our way through Paula's original book, and we are delighted that she has taken the time to return to the region in her new edition. She has revisited, refined and expanded on the original tome -- continuing the stories she began in her original edition, adding 60 new recipes, and expanding her regional coverage to include the Auvergne. Some of us were chosen as recipe testers for the new volume, and many of us have begun cooking with the new edition already. We share notes on our experience cooking from this new edition in this thread. Paula offers us insight into her lifelong approach to culinary writing: Susan Fahning (aka snowangel), Elie Nassar (aka foodman) and I warmly welcome you to participate in this eG Spotlight Conversation with Paula Wolfert as she smooths and shines her quills and comes forth to answer our questions about her life, vocation, and the recently released new edition of The Cooking of Southwest France, Recipes from France's Magnificent Rustic Cuisine. Welcome, Paula. Let this latest eG Spotlight Conversation begin! To post a question, click "New Thread" at the top of this forum. Each question will be its own topic. Once a question has been posted, we ask that the membership refrain from any additional posts or commentary until Paula has had the opportunity to respond to the post directly. Once Paula’s response is up, the topic is open for in depth discussion by all members, and we warmly encourage followup conversation. Please note that this eG Conversation may be moderated, and your question may not appear as soon as you post it.

Apparently some of these products are in mainstream supermarkets. I will ask.

It looks like they may not control final retail prices. I see that at the online boutique the vanilla beans are €5.00 but at the boutique on my street the package of 3 beans goes for €4.50.